Broken belt in 15 days
02-20-2005, 04:04 PM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 219
Broken belt in 15 days
Just one when I thought every thing was going great and the s/c setup was going to be reliable BOOM PLATPLATPLATPLAT!#$%!#$^#$@!$^%@#. Yep my belt got tore up and came off the pulley. I just finish cutting it off, got to where I was going and back home minus the ac. and alternator. Would that cause any damage to drive 10 miles without a belt? I'm not sure if it came off because it was a off brand belt or if I might of had it to tight? Well anyway I went to Napa and got a gates I hope this one last a little longer next time that thing comes off it will be to upgrade the pulleys. PIMPING AINT EASY 
02-20-2005, 04:21 PM
#2
Sorry to hear you belt broke.
I'm far from a supercharger expert, or novice at that, but maybe it wasnt on properly.
I dont trust S/C it seems like its only a matter of time before the belt brakes.
I'm far from a supercharger expert, or novice at that, but maybe it wasnt on properly.
I dont trust S/C it seems like its only a matter of time before the belt brakes.
02-20-2005, 05:15 PM
#3
actually the main cause of broken belt is to loose not tight and s/c is far far more reliable than an turbo, it's alot less likely to blow your engine. make sure after you put on your new belt you check it daily for awhile, you will probably have to retighten a few times, the way this works is this
to loose= broken belt, slips and shreds
to tight= possible damage to s/c compressor bearings
and it's a thin line between just right and too tight, g/l
to loose= broken belt, slips and shreds
to tight= possible damage to s/c compressor bearings
and it's a thin line between just right and too tight, g/l
02-20-2005, 05:22 PM
#4
Didnt know that, but seems like that occurs alot, just read too much of belts breaking snapping etc. Are that difficult to tighten? On TV I was watch a Supercharged S2000 and you'd figure with a big name sponsor putting the supercharger on it would be done right. Half way thru the interview they had to tow the S2K off the track cause he broke a super charger belt. I like that its cheaper than a turbo but seems like belts are always breaking.
02-20-2005, 06:15 PM
#5
I couldn't fix your brakes, so I made your horn louder
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Originally Posted by Nismotech1
actually the main cause of broken belt is to loose not tight and s/c is far far more reliable than an turbo, it's alot less likely to blow your engine.
I call B.S. on the sc thing (sorry OT)
Anyway - back on topic - check your alignment as far as the bracket goes.... if the shimming is off by a tad - you may shred the belt yet again.
02-21-2005, 08:40 AM
#6
Originally Posted by Nismotech1
actually the main cause of broken belt is to loose not tight and s/c is far far more reliable than an turbo, it's alot less likely to blow your engine. make sure after you put on your new belt you check it daily for awhile, you will probably have to retighten a few times, the way this works is this
to loose= broken belt, slips and shreds
to tight= possible damage to s/c compressor bearings
and it's a thin line between just right and too tight, g/l
to loose= broken belt, slips and shreds
to tight= possible damage to s/c compressor bearings
and it's a thin line between just right and too tight, g/l
On a V2 its more like the alignment is off rather than how tight the belt is thats causing the belt to shred. When the belt jumps/shifts on the pulley the sharp edge of the pulley will cut the overlapping rib/ribs off and then you'll hear that "whap, whap, whap" noise as the loose rib is flaying the hood and everything else.
Even when everything is in alignment the belt can even jump on a hot summer day when the engine is cold. This happened to me a couple of years ago. Left my office after work, I didn't let the engine warm up completely and I and gunned the engine. Belt jumped and I got that familiar "whap, whap, whap" noise.
A n overtightened belt will cause premature wear on the blower bearings and cause that stupid "marbles in a can" noise. Its true that theres a fine line between over tightening and undertightening and its a bitcch to find that sweet spot during the winter months.
02-21-2005, 09:15 AM
#7
Originally Posted by MDeezy
I dont trust S/C it seems like its only a matter of time before the belt brakes.
The main cause of belts breaking is bracket misalignment.
02-21-2005, 09:44 AM
#8
97k miles= 2 belts began shredding. Never lost a belt. Hey, what would you consider a good tight fit. I always feel on top the blower to check belt tension on the upside. I have it tight enough to turn just past 90* between crank and compressor. I guess im a little sketch since I just got the blower rebuilt. Anyone ever get a textured look on the belt( on the top when it comes over the pulley). I assume this is normal since it always looks like that. Anyone ever try some belt dressing? Seems to work but picks up dirt and makes a slippery sticky residue... 
02-21-2005, 09:49 AM
#9
It is all about the preventative maintenance. I look under my hood everytime I get home. Check the oil atleast once a day. I think the belt breaking depends alot more on the owner. 
I have driven with just the 2 motor mount bolts in with no alignment problems.
Only have 5 bolts holding it on now.
Has anyone tried to put the bracket on without the blower on the bracket? I could not get the bracket on. I guess when you bolt the blower on some how the bracket flattens out or something.....
I have driven with just the 2 motor mount bolts in with no alignment problems.
Only have 5 bolts holding it on now.
Has anyone tried to put the bracket on without the blower on the bracket? I could not get the bracket on. I guess when you bolt the blower on some how the bracket flattens out or something.....
02-21-2005, 10:40 AM
#10
Originally Posted by vortechpower
I have it tight enough to turn just past 90* between crank and compressor. I guess im a little sketch since I just got the blower rebuilt. Anyone ever get a textured look on the belt( on the top when it comes over the pulley). I assume this is normal since it always looks like that. Anyone ever try some belt dressing? Seems to work but picks up dirt and makes a slippery sticky residue...
The textured look on top is because of the belt pathway. If you follow the pathway you'll see that the belt runs on both the ribbed side and the top side.
I tried belt dressing two winters ago. It helped to take away some of the sqeauling due to slippage but it does get messy. I didn't use it at all this winter.
02-21-2005, 10:41 AM
#11
Originally Posted by vortechpower
Has anyone tried to put the bracket on without the blower on the bracket? I could not get the bracket on. I guess when you bolt the blower on some how the bracket flattens out or something.....
02-21-2005, 11:14 AM
#12
i have come up with a few tricks.
Which way does everyone put the alternator bolt onto (v2 bracket)? I have mine going from the timing chain cover side. It allows the alternator to have a little play so it can adjust to the belt itself.
you can always keep the stock belt on. It takes less than 5 mins to do on the road, if you have the right extensions.
vortech, i have the bracket on right now with no sc, its the only way that the alternator will stay in place.
Which way does everyone put the alternator bolt onto (v2 bracket)? I have mine going from the timing chain cover side. It allows the alternator to have a little play so it can adjust to the belt itself.
you can always keep the stock belt on. It takes less than 5 mins to do on the road, if you have the right extensions.
vortech, i have the bracket on right now with no sc, its the only way that the alternator will stay in place.
02-21-2005, 11:49 AM
#13
When I took the blower off to be rebuilt I tried putting the bracket back by itself. I don't have the stock size bolts that go into the chain drive case and I didn't want it to leak oil if I could help it. I found out that I couldn't get it on. I drove around for 2 months, the bracket would not go on for me 
I only had the 2 big bolts in and ended up with an oil leak the next day!
I only had the 2 big bolts in and ended up with an oil leak the next day!
02-21-2005, 11:57 AM
#14
Originally Posted by Nismotech1
actually the main cause of broken belt is to loose not tight and s/c is far far more reliable than an turbo, it's alot less likely to blow your engine.
the unit itself may generally be more reliable than the turbo due to the extreme heat the turbos are running at but in no way can a turbo be more likely to blow an engine compared to an s/c.
they both have an equal likely hood of blowing an engine if its not tuned properly but if both are tuned properly both should last quite a while with a moderate power output.
02-21-2005, 12:46 PM
#15
Originally Posted by vortechpower
When I took the blower off to be rebuilt I tried putting the bracket back by itself. I don't have the stock size bolts that go into the chain drive case and I didn't want it to leak oil if I could help it. I found out that I couldn't get it on. I drove around for 2 months, the bracket would not go on for me I only had the 2 big bolts in and ended up with an oil leak the next day!
I only had the 2 big bolts in and ended up with an oil leak the next day!
02-21-2005, 01:02 PM
#16
Originally Posted by mtcookson
sorry but... that's totally untrue.
the unit itself may generally be more reliable than the turbo due to the extreme heat the turbos are running at but in no way can a turbo be more likely to blow an engine compared to an s/c.
they both have an equal likely hood of blowing an engine if its not tuned properly but if both are tuned properly both should last quite a while with a moderate power output.
the unit itself may generally be more reliable than the turbo due to the extreme heat the turbos are running at but in no way can a turbo be more likely to blow an engine compared to an s/c.
they both have an equal likely hood of blowing an engine if its not tuned properly but if both are tuned properly both should last quite a while with a moderate power output.
I don't think S/C has wastegastes or boost controllers that can screw up resulting in "overboosting" -> possible detonation -> possible trashed engine.
This "weakness" is also the turbos advantage to getting more power.
02-21-2005, 03:44 PM
#18
I couldn't fix your brakes, so I made your horn louder
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Originally Posted by Chunger
I don't think S/C has wastegastes or boost controllers that can screw up resulting in "overboosting" -> possible detonation -> possible trashed engine.
This "weakness" is also the turbos advantage to getting more power.
This "weakness" is also the turbos advantage to getting more power.
Or if you have invested in a good boost controller and wastegate - it won't be an issue.... boost creep is all about the setup really.
02-21-2005, 05:02 PM
#19
most wastegate issues that i've seen is they'll get carbon on them and lock up in the open position which would actually limit boost. maybe if a hose popped off or something.
even then, i still wouldn't believe that an s/c setup would be more reliable. if the wastegate did mess up, you'd quickly notice that there is something wrong (especially with a good set of gauges that would warn you of overboosting) and you could let off the throttle before anything bad happened.
even then, i still wouldn't believe that an s/c setup would be more reliable. if the wastegate did mess up, you'd quickly notice that there is something wrong (especially with a good set of gauges that would warn you of overboosting) and you could let off the throttle before anything bad happened.
02-21-2005, 07:14 PM
#20
Originally Posted by mtcookson
most wastegate issues that i've seen is they'll get carbon on them and lock up in the open position which would actually limit boost. maybe if a hose popped off or something.
even then, i still wouldn't believe that an s/c setup would be more reliable. if the wastegate did mess up, you'd quickly notice that there is something wrong (especially with a good set of gauges that would warn you of overboosting) and you could let off the throttle before anything bad happened.
even then, i still wouldn't believe that an s/c setup would be more reliable. if the wastegate did mess up, you'd quickly notice that there is something wrong (especially with a good set of gauges that would warn you of overboosting) and you could let off the throttle before anything bad happened.
It don't "take long" to overboost and destroy an engine. I'm not really debating the issue "is a S/C or Turbo better" argument at all... That's not my intention. I'm just pointing out that in "homegrown" turbo apps (like "ours"), not everyone is "setup" properly. Turbos can be very reliable... look at factory Porsches.
02-21-2005, 10:25 PM
#21
Originally Posted by slimer
home depot has the stock size, or you could have just used a bunch of washers as spacers for the bolts.
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