Supercharged/Turbocharged The increase in air/fuel pressure above atmospheric pressure in the intake system caused by the action of a supercharger or turbocharger attached to an engine.

Another Turbo Max (pics inside)

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Old 03-24-2005, 07:08 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by Brad92SE
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So it spikes lean while you're WOT? I would be VERY careful. If it goes leaner than 13:1, I would worry about it. I know the ZEMulator would solve your issue, but I know that doesn't help your current situation. I wish I could help more.

Also, once you get tuned somewhat properly, I would like to know if the top end starts to diminish above 6K with this turbo. I doubt it would. Thanks.
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Old 03-24-2005, 07:39 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
So it spikes lean while you're WOT? I would be VERY careful. If it goes leaner than 13:1, I would worry about it. I know the ZEMulator would solve your issue, but I know that doesn't help your current situation. I wish I could help more.

Also, once you get tuned somewhat properly, I would like to know if the top end starts to diminish above 6K with this turbo. I doubt it would. Thanks.
At WOT yes, but it does it sometimes at 3/4 throttle too. I'm thinking its a bad reading though, since my guess is that my engine would have nuked by now if it were running a 40:1 AFR, even for a couple seconds.
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Old 03-24-2005, 08:21 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by Brad92SE
At WOT yes, but it does it sometimes at 3/4 throttle too. I'm thinking its a bad reading though, since my guess is that my engine would have nuked by now if it were running a 40:1 AFR, even for a couple seconds.
I say get a multimeter and connect it to your stock narrowband o2 sensor. At idle, you will notice that it toggles between rich and lean. I think rich is the low voltage figure and lean is higher voltage. It's something like .3v and 1.2v. It should toggle about 5 times within 10 seconds. At WOT, since your AFR is richer than 14.7, then it should constantly read as .3v or vice versa (I can't remember which is which, but you'll find out as soon as you rev your motor and it goes to rich). Then when you let off the gas, you'll notice that it reads 1.2v since it's lean. But, if it ever reads lean while you're ON the gas, then that means it's leaner than 14.7:1 and you've got a SERIOUS problem.

This multimeter thing is the same thing as putting a ricer air/fuel gauge in your car, just minus the fancy light show. In order to get the correct voltage, you can simply tap into the "o2 sensor" wire that is coming out of your ECU harness connector. You'll have to look at your FSM to find out which wire to tap into. You can use one of those inline wire taps that snap in place (18-21 ga will work). Those work great.
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Old 03-24-2005, 10:35 AM
  #84  
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Low voltage is lean. I read .128v usually at idle on the low part of the fluctation. I don't remember sense its been so long since I sarted this thing. I think it doesn't fluctuate much for me at idle. I'll look at some logged idling tonight. I sometimes get 1.5v right when the throttle snaps shut. Thats also when I get flames out the pipe. This is where an OBD reader comes in handy.
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Old 03-24-2005, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Broaner
Low voltage is lean. I read .128v usually at idle on the low part of the fluctation. I don't remember sense its been so long since I sarted this thing. I think it doesn't fluctuate much for me at idle. I'll look at some logged idling tonight. I sometimes get 1.5v right when the throttle snaps shut. Thats also when I get flames out the pipe. This is where an OBD reader comes in handy.
I would really consider doing an o2 sensor diagnostics. Your o2 sensor is suppose to toggle atleast 5 times within 10 seconds. (Or whatever your FSM says) Flames out of the tailpipe is never a good thing!
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