- Is it possible to have a turbo running off of only the front bank exhaust? I'm not sure whether it'll function properly, but it would seem easier for the piping. I was thinking of cutting off the front bend at the warpspeed Y and routing that to the turbo and from the turbo back to where the bend was.

- Where do you guys route the exhaust piping to the battery tray becuase throughout the entire Y, the crossmember is in the way of crossing over.

- Where do most of you guys that have turbos where the battery is tap into for your oil feed and where is your oil drain.

- If I would only use the front bank, what turbo specs should I look for that would provide mostly midrange-highend power?

- I don't really plan on quick shifts or racing too much so Im probably going to use the stock clutch because I don't plan on running more than 5lbs of boost so I assume that the clutch should still hold if i'm just punching it like in 3rd gear right? (Please say yes)

- Would just an SAFC work for a ~5psi setup or would I have to go for an FMU and fuel pump as well?

Thanks guys and sorry for all the questions, I'm still a newb in FI part

 

Hey, I am originally from Wethersfield. I don't know too much about boost, but from what I have read you would not want to run a turbo off one bank. You are changing the conditions of one side of the engine while leaving the other alone and I can't imagine that being good for your car. The PFI turbo kit uses a y pipe that collects exhaust from all cylinders.

I think you will need some way to get more fuel- FMU being the most basic. Check out the setup that MikeI30 just put together. He really did it right.

I will defer to those will real boost experience on everything else. Good luck.

 

I think he is talking about just running the turbine (exhaust side) off the front cylinders with a really small turbo, but still have the boost on all of the cylinders. I would be impossible to isolate the boost to one side with our intake manifold. With a Z32 300zx you could but what would be the point.

In theory this would work. You would need a really small turbo T25? and your turbo would max at 7-8psi if you are lucky. This would not provide really good gains and would not be upgradible in the least. I think the extreme kit is this setup. http://www.turbo-kits.com/maxima_turbo_kits.html

The PFI kit is much better though. I would just get a Stillen SC kit used for less the $3400 they want or new for a little more.

It is a waste to go half way on a turbo setup. If you want to boost then going cheap or taking big shortcuts will only disappoint you or cost you more money in the long run.

The oil feed comes from the Oil pressure sender unit through a T fitting of some kind. Oil return is a bit more complicated.

I doubt an SAFC alone would cut it. You can try to use the stock clutch but it won't last long.

 

Either get a PFI kit or get a SC.

Don't run a turbo off one bank....there is a myriad of reasons why

Don't try and boost on the stock clutch. At 5psi I am putting down 260lbs of torque. A stock clutch is not going to handle that. Why are you wanting to stay with the stock clutch? Money? If it to same a few hundred $ then you should not be turboing your car


Don't kid yourself that your only going to do 3rd gear pulls every once and while....please. In that case you won't boost at all around town unless you don't mind driving 70+ mph on city streets to get into boost.

If you really, really want to boost your car. 1st, donate the friggen $20 and search for all the threads where this is covered over and over. I know I posted alot about my turbo project and alot of anwsers are in there. How did I find out most of my info? By reading old threads.

Just an SAFC is not enough for a decent, safe tune.

 

Well the turbo would have to be sized for a 3 cylinder 1.5 liter engine basicly. For all the trouble it takes to install/tune, you might as well do it right the 1st time. Trust us when we tell you it's not going to 1/2 easier because it's only running off 1/2 the cylinders. You still have to deal with air/fuel/oil feed/return/custom exhaust..blah..blah.. Do it right, use a T28 or T3, then just use an external wg and set it really low

 

So your thinking it will be easier to have the front bank feed the turbo, the rear bank go to the exhaust?

Let's look at this...

You'll have a turbo mounted where? You can come back to this one. Ok, so you have the front bank feeding the turbo, and the rear bank going to the exhaust. SO now you need a charge pipe to go to either the intercooler or the TB. So the turbo down pipe is going to be where? It's gonna have to merge with either the rear bank or the exhaust. What about oil feed and drain lines? What about the intake on the turo? So what did you actually gain?


Why route piping to the battery tray? And your 1/2 right.


Oil sending unit, and either the lower oil pan or lower oil pan cover

Check the FAQ's

Why even bother boosting it? What do you care about the stock clutch? Your going to spend thousands of dollars, why not spend another $400 on a better clutch?

REad the FAQ/stickies

I hope you answer these questions honestly, I think you and others thinking about using 1 bank are trying to go around in circles to aviod spending the money to do it right.

 

how hard could it be to run one more pipe from the rear bank and merge it to the front. it would be just as much work as merging the rear bank with the down pipe except youll loose half your exhaust energy

has anyone ever heard of a factory V6 or V8 with the turbo only running off of one bank NO

 

I didn't think so either, but I had a feeling and apparently SAAB did on the 1999 9-5:

"The new Saab single-bank turbo 3.0L V6 is the world's first asymmetric
turbocharger design. An integrated low-pressure turbocharger on the front
cylinder bank feeds compressed air to the entire transverse-mounted engine,
boosting low-end torque to 229 lb.-ft. at 2,100 rpm. With four valves per
cylinder and dual overhead cams, the asymmetric Turbo V6 develops 200 hp"

http://www.theautochannel.com/news/p...ess008937.html

still SAAB probably put TONS of research into this, so maybe their idea is solid. BUT I agree with you all, its still NOT proven to be practical on the Maxima yet.

 

It's not that it won't work, it's just that its rather pointless. Why would you waste your time doing a front bank only turbo setup? You might save $62.49 on the single bit of piping that goes to the rear bank... everything else will be just as complicated, actually MORE complicated since you will be entering uncharted waters. On top of that, you are limiting yourself to a low boost, small turbo, low power setup. Why spend $4000 on a setup that you will never see more than 250whp out of when you can spend $4062.49 and have a setup with the potential to put out 400+. It's like people think that running the turbo off half the engine will cost half as much, but it doesn't work that way. The only thing you are saving money on is a tiny bit of piping and welding... and I emphasize tiny. With a 1 bank setup, you are still going to have to do 85-90% of the fabrication and welding that a 2 bank setup does.