Ok just to make sure the MAF is wired up correctly...

Black and Orange Z32 both connected to Black A32
Black/white wire Z32 connected to Red A32
White Z32 connected to White A32

I think the MAF that I bought is fried..I checked the wires many times and the pigtail as well

I posted a few days ago about the loopy idle I was getting..I turned the maf 180 degrees and it worked fine for few days...idled perfect.....figured it was fixed...well its not

I went out today, started the car, and the CEL tripped right away...Im figuring something on the inside of the MAF is loose causing the Up and down idle and most likely the CEL...I shoulda pulled the codes, but I reset it instead

Now for the real question...for guys that have come across a Faulty MAF, what are the symtoms of a bad MAF ?? Is Loopy idle one of them ?? Driving im gettin that hesitation under NO throttle, but that probably has to do with the idle problem

If you have come across a Bad MAF what were your symtoms ??

Im close to just ordering a replacement MAF.

-matt

 

im curious as well. i should be installing mine next week.

 

Well, disconnect it and see if the car runs any worse, unless that's out of the question since you're running boost.. When I didn't connect mine a few years back the car would buck and stutter under laod.

 

The rpms shouldnt go past 2500 or 3000 rpms I believe....

Also, not related to the thread but is it ok to adjust the timing to get it to stock with the JWT ecu connected?? Or should I adjust timing with the stock ecu...

 

What these guys are describing is a 100% shot MAF, but the MAF can just be flakey and give bad air flow readings at certaing times. Just like most types of sensors they don't stop totally working all at once.

 

Well would a symtom of a Flakey MAF, not reading the right Air Flow, be loopy idle ?? A bad idling engine

If I unplug the MAF and jsut the car idle, it idles perfect cause the ECU goes into "safe" mode...the car wont go past 2400 RPM's but unplugging I dont think is a good test of the MAF

-matt

 

I wired in the Z32 on the charged size and got horrible stumbling/buckin under accelleration for 3-5 minutes until car warmed up. Then it ran OK but the idle was fluctuating 200RPM up/down and occasionally stalling when pushing the clutch in and coasting.

I put the MAF on my buddy's Z and it worked great. Put his "known good" MAF on my car and I still had the bucking when cold and rough idle when warm issue. (Same results with JWT A32 and JWT Z32 Chips). However, if I removed the SC piping way up at the clower so the car was only sucking in Naturally Aspirated air, the car idled perfectly.

I do have the HKS SSQ BOV, which does not leak air at idle, and it's been thought this could be the issue. Something else I have to test.

I sitll haven't figured it out or gotten around to making non-charged side piping. I had a tranny go and 2 oil leaks to fix so I've been concentrating on those things.

(VLSD now in, and oil leaks hopefully solved - will be working on Z32 MAF in a week or two again).

 

i think the biggest problem with running the z32 maf on the charged side is the bend right before the MAF.

I think that Stephen Max doesn't have the problem because his piping is rerouted.

Which BOV do you have? Do you want to try the recirc?

If so, I have a piece of 2.5" black powdercoated piping that I can send you that Ferhan used when he ran his z32 maf on the non charged side. He gave it to me when I bought the kit. PM me your addy.

Steve

 

What about dleio? He has stock piping (unless I'm misinformed)

Not to mention that Stephen has the stock ocnfiguraiton for the most part now. He no longer reroutes under the bumper. But he does have the 3" piping - which may make a difference.

All things I'll be trying in a couple of weeks.

 

offer stands for both you and matty

 

What does that bend have to do with anything ???


Im running a full 3 inch charge pipe now and the Vortech BOV witch does leak alot of air at idle...I really think that the Z32 MAF is being flakey..I start the car and right away, if its cold or hot, its starts oscelating up and down, up and down...if i go for a ride with it, it boostes fine but when I jsut cruize at partial to no throttle, it stubles constatly...

Stephan right now is running the stock piping across the engine and has no problems...

I just dont why you cant run the Z32 MAF on the charged side...it makes no sense, is it really that sensative ?? what is JWT's reason for not running it on the charged side ?

Right now im an unsucsessfull at running the Z32 on the charge side even with a 3" charge pipe..I belive the MAF is bad though

-matt

 

All I want to know is what does a Flakey MAF act like in the car ??
Would a loopy idle be a symtom of a flakey MAF ??

Im trying to figure out if its a bad MAF or just it being on the charged side ??

Maybe I should just switch back to A32 EEPROM and A32 MAF...i think ill be happier that way

 

Well I called up Ben at JWt and he said that the MAF's dont like to be exposed to Pressurized air and it should be on the non-charged side of the S/C at least 18" from the inlet..

He said that NO boosted Nissan engine from the factory had the MAF on the charged side due to the fact that they are sensative to charged air.

-matt

 

The problem matty is that the symptoms you describe are both symptoms of a flakey MAF AND of simply having the MAF on the Charged side according to JWT.

Try this to decide which it is - remove your SC piping AT the blower and let the piping just suck in non-boosted air.

See if the idle levels out then. If it does, then you have the same issue as me (MAF on charged side)

If it doesn't, then it's likely either your MAF or MAF wiring.

 

did you wire that MAF properly? first off you dont use that orange wire. What I did to wire one up is look at the JWT instructions, only hook up the four wires that come out of the harness and thats it. I cant remember which ones they were on the harness. On the stock harness its simple

black ground
white AF signal
thick red one is positive

 

The thing is I dont get any stubbling under boost..I get a stubble if im at part of NO throttle while cruizing but under boost i get no stumble...

and you describing the car runnign different when cold and when hot,....My car runs the same when cold and when warmed up...right when i start it up, the idle is at 1500 but flucuating...when it warms up its still fluctuates

If I unplug the MAF while the car is running it levels out...If I cover up the BOV so NO air is being vented out, it levels out..

The car ran bad for like 2 days then I tured the MAF and it ran perfect for about a day...thats what is soo mind boggling...The car sat for 2 days and I started it up yesterday, I got a CEL for most likely the MAF and the car was back to running like crap..(up and down idle)..

I ordered a different MAF from a junkyard...

A32 White = Z32 White
A32 Black = Z32 Black AND Orange
A32 Red = Z32 Black/White wire

I think its wired up properly..I just think the MAF is shot...

 

IANSW,

How do you have your MAF wired up ?? Are both your grounds going to the A32 ground or no ??

Delio filled me in and said his car was acting like this with his on the charged side and he took one ground from the Z32 Harness and put on the negative - side of the battery...and it fixed the stumbling and weird idle

 

I tried with the 2 grounds (orange and black) going to black AND with the orange going to an engine bolt AND with the orange disconnected.

Same results throughout.

Once I could get the engine to not buck (when cold) - it always worked fine under boost. But would stutter when warm and buck when cold at 1000-3000RPM.

Seriously - just try pulling the piping at the SC - if anything just to prove/disprove a theory for me.

 

Well I'll try pulling it off at the blower and running uncharged air

Have you ever gotten a CEL from your MAF ?? If you have it on the charged side with the car running, and you unplug your MAF, how does your car act ??


The more and more I listen to you the more and more I want to call up JWT and change it out to an A32 MAF program....I just dont get why the JWT MAF is SOOOO sensative but also according to JWT, you cant run the A32 MAF on the charged side either, so idk

Well what kinda piping are you looking at to get the MAF on a NON-Charged side ???

-matt

 

I bought 2 24" long 3" diameter straight pipes and 2 3" diameter U Bends with 12" legs.

Don't know yet what I'm going to do, but I figured that would be enough to do anything I need.

Obviously go out through the fender (CAI style) then maybe relocate the washer resiviour and run piping down there.

 

10 characters

 

Well I already have my resevior moved to the other side..

the MAF needs to be 18" from the inlet so that really isnt much of a problem...I was thinking of just using my Cold up setup that I have now, and just incorporating my MAF just after the filter....
So ill have a section of rubber from the blower to 45 U that I have already, then an MAF adaptor right to the Filter...18" shouldnt be as hard as I thought originally

Anything else have to be done to the inlet side ?? Whats the recurculation systme that is needed when doing this ??


-matt

 

I just know I am going to have problems now. Once my JWT ECU gets here (2 months now) my Z32 MAF will be on the charged side right after a bend....sounds like I will need to rework my piping.

 

I dont think the bend has anything to do with it...I think the Z32 MAF is unable to meter charged air.....

.....well some of them

 

Well I Took off the charge pipe at the blower and let the car just run N/A and it idles perefect N/A....

Well a couple questions for IANSW:
What else is needed when putting the MAF on the Uncharged side ?? I will be doing this tomorrow...whats a recirculation systme and why do we need it if were running the MAF on the Uncharged side ?
Did your car ever give a CEL due to the MAF ??
If you unplug your MAF on the charged side, how does your car act ??

If I dont do the un-charged side route, Im going to get the A32 EPPROM and switch back....first im ordering another MAF...

-matt

 

The recirulation has to do with the blow off valve. Wtih the MAF being on the non-charged side any air released by the BOV has already been meterd by the MAF. So it needs to be recirculated into the intake path. Air that is taken into account by the MAF needs to get to the motor.


If I have problems with my Z32 MAF on the charged side then I might use the A32 MAF as well. It's good to around 350whp right?

 

Well why would you need to recir back into the filter to get metered again ?? What would be wrong with putting the MAF on the Non-charged side, having my BOV vent to atmosphere, and having NO recir system ?? With the MAF getting NO air blown onto it, my car idles like charm..the minute I put on anytype of blown air, it begins to loop up and down...

yea..im gonna try one more MAF, if that doesnt work, im going back to A32

-matt