How many hours to remove heads and timing mechanism? Weight of shortblock/crank
07-24-2005, 07:19 AM
#1
How many hours to remove heads and timing mechanism? Weight of shortblock/crank
I'm going to start tearing down my old motor today (it's already out of the car). Approximately how long am I looking at to get it down to shortblock and rotating assembly and how much does the engine weigh without the heads or timing assembly on it?
07-24-2005, 02:38 PM
#2
It will take some time. I ran into problems here and there. It was a b!tch to get the crank pulley off. The Haynes manual did not list the "hidden" bolts to remove the timing covers so that wasted my time; those bolts you take out after you take off oil pan. I have the plain block right now and it weighs over 50lbs I think. So the entire short block will be under100lbs.
07-24-2005, 04:52 PM
#5
Any ideas on how to get the crank pulley bolt broken loose? I've got no flywheel (so I can't wedge something against the teeth of it) and the engine is out of the car. I'm using hand tools.
And yeah I found those hidden bolts in the oil pan, they aren't mentioned in the FSM as far as I can tell either but I got em. Impossible to get the timing chain cover off though with that crank pulley on there because of the little dowels built into the timing cover.
I'm at am impasse right now with this crank pulley.
And yeah I found those hidden bolts in the oil pan, they aren't mentioned in the FSM as far as I can tell either but I got em. Impossible to get the timing chain cover off though with that crank pulley on there because of the little dowels built into the timing cover.
I'm at am impasse right now with this crank pulley.
07-24-2005, 05:01 PM
#6
you can put fly wheel bolts back in and wedge somthing between them. Have a friend hold that while you pry on the crank pulley bolt. You both will need cheeter pipe on you tools, that thing is on their. I had to get a new Ingersol Rand impact with 590ft/lb to get mine off, my Huskey that came with a friends compressor wasnt gettin it. Good luck!
07-24-2005, 05:07 PM
#7
Well i tried using a prybar in between the flywheel bolts and then ripping on the crank pulley, ended up breaking the prybar lol. I will try again with something stronger later. It's too hot out right now to do it. My engine stand bolts are sortof getting in the way of the flywheel bolts so it's difficult to get something seated in there well. Thanks for the advice all.
07-24-2005, 06:54 PM
#9
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
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Originally Posted by slimer
neal, i can come out on friday and help, but i know that you would probably like to work on it before then.
Neal may be comming down here on Friday when I do my 550 injectors, Z32 MAF, JWT ECU, and .7bar spring install.
07-24-2005, 07:00 PM
#10
Luckily for me, the engine I took apart had one of the timing gears stuck to the head and with my iron man strength I got the bolt off. I tried with a rubber grip strap type thing it it was worthless.
Kevlo911
Kevlo911
07-25-2005, 05:18 AM
#12
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
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Originally Posted by slimer
sounds like fun...
should i do mine too?
since the WBO2 is working, i can tune with the 410's and the z32 ecu.
did you get the jwt ecu?
should i do mine too?
since the WBO2 is working, i can tune with the 410's and the z32 ecu.
did you get the jwt ecu?
07-25-2005, 11:08 AM
#13
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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I d highly recommend you guys get air tools. Get a impact with minimum 550 ft lbs of torque in reverse. I use my gun at 110-120PSI. And dont forget to oil it up. A air ratchet will speed up the tear down process at least by 4 hours. I find myself sometimes not using air tools. They do come in mighty handy.
07-26-2005, 11:46 PM
#14
I couldn't fix your brakes, so I made your horn louder
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with an electric snap on impact (Thanks to sx7r) We did an entire teardown in a few hours of the entire block. Worst parts in order of difficulty:
1) Crank pulley - we already had the upper oil pan off - so we just shoved the handle of my floor jack through the crankshaft area to where it would jam up the assembly to stop the turning.
2) Unbolting the head from the block itself - The "allen" head bolts in there are on there pretty damn good... broke a 1/2 inch ratchet in the process as well.
3) Finding all million stupid bolts that are hidden to unbolt the timing chain covers.
The block stripped down could be carried by me and my buddy easily - I'd say the bare block isn't more than 70-80 lbs I think.
1) Crank pulley - we already had the upper oil pan off - so we just shoved the handle of my floor jack through the crankshaft area to where it would jam up the assembly to stop the turning.
2) Unbolting the head from the block itself - The "allen" head bolts in there are on there pretty damn good... broke a 1/2 inch ratchet in the process as well.
3) Finding all million stupid bolts that are hidden to unbolt the timing chain covers.
The block stripped down could be carried by me and my buddy easily - I'd say the bare block isn't more than 70-80 lbs I think.
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