JWT ECU, Z32 MAF, and 550's are in....
07-31-2005, 01:41 PM
#1
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
JWT ECU, Z32 MAF, and 550's are in....
Things are not quite right so far
Car ran really rough with very low vacuum for a while then the vacuum got better and better till it was idling pretty decent. Not 100%, but decent.
Seems every time I start the car it takes just a minute for vacuum to come up and for the idle to smooth out.
Drove around granny style and drives fine. Rpm's dip a little low when comming to a complete stop but my car has done that in the past.
I don't want to get into boost yet. I don't have a wide band so I am a little nervous to get on it.
Here is the strang part. When I do get into the throttle a bit a vacuum approaches 0 the car seems to pull back, not hesistation but it just kinda stops responding to the increase in throttle. Then when I let off and go into neutral my BOV sounds all funky. I have an SSQV whcih give off the sputter type noise, but now it kinda sputters then hisses.
My first reaction is vacuum leak. The engine bay is really hot right now so I need to let it cool down before messing with it anymore. It is not a leak at any of my hoses, checked those. I could be the rubber manifold gasket. I have had the upper manifold off many times and never had a problem with a leak before, but maybe it is not seated right.
Any thoughts?
Car ran really rough with very low vacuum for a while then the vacuum got better and better till it was idling pretty decent. Not 100%, but decent.
Seems every time I start the car it takes just a minute for vacuum to come up and for the idle to smooth out.
Drove around granny style and drives fine. Rpm's dip a little low when comming to a complete stop but my car has done that in the past.
I don't want to get into boost yet. I don't have a wide band so I am a little nervous to get on it.
Here is the strang part. When I do get into the throttle a bit a vacuum approaches 0 the car seems to pull back, not hesistation but it just kinda stops responding to the increase in throttle. Then when I let off and go into neutral my BOV sounds all funky. I have an SSQV whcih give off the sputter type noise, but now it kinda sputters then hisses.
My first reaction is vacuum leak. The engine bay is really hot right now so I need to let it cool down before messing with it anymore. It is not a leak at any of my hoses, checked those. I could be the rubber manifold gasket. I have had the upper manifold off many times and never had a problem with a leak before, but maybe it is not seated right.
Any thoughts?
07-31-2005, 02:30 PM
#2
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
Ok, went for another drive.
Car sat for about 30min and when started it idled really bad with low vacuum. Vacuum came up and the car idled fine after a couple minutes.
Pushed the car a bit more and it feels like it doesn't want to boost. I get a boost reading but it just feels flat. BOV sounds really messed up.
Car sat for about 30min and when started it idled really bad with low vacuum. Vacuum came up and the car idled fine after a couple minutes.
Pushed the car a bit more and it feels like it doesn't want to boost. I get a boost reading but it just feels flat. BOV sounds really messed up.
07-31-2005, 03:10 PM
#5
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (54)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 10,166
This may be something to think of....
....Every time the upper manifold comes off, you need to replace that gasket..it is a one time use gasket.I know that for a fact
How do you have your MAF wired up ?? Are BOTH Z32 Grounds going to the A32 Ground or did you take one and run it to the battery ?? Jwt sais to mate both of them together, but Ive also heard taking one and bringing it to the battery...I have the Orange ground routed to the battery.
....Every time the upper manifold comes off, you need to replace that gasket..it is a one time use gasket.I know that for a fact
How do you have your MAF wired up ?? Are BOTH Z32 Grounds going to the A32 Ground or did you take one and run it to the battery ?? Jwt sais to mate both of them together, but Ive also heard taking one and bringing it to the battery...I have the Orange ground routed to the battery.
07-31-2005, 04:34 PM
#6
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
Originally Posted by matty
This may be something to think of....
....Every time the upper manifold comes off, you need to replace that gasket..it is a one time use gasket.I know that for a fact
How do you have your MAF wired up ?? Are BOTH Z32 Grounds going to the A32 Ground or did you take one and run it to the battery ?? Jwt sais to mate both of them together, but Ive also heard taking one and bringing it to the battery...I have the Orange ground routed to the battery.
....Every time the upper manifold comes off, you need to replace that gasket..it is a one time use gasket.I know that for a fact
How do you have your MAF wired up ?? Are BOTH Z32 Grounds going to the A32 Ground or did you take one and run it to the battery ?? Jwt sais to mate both of them together, but Ive also heard taking one and bringing it to the battery...I have the Orange ground routed to the battery.
If it is a vacuum leak then it must be a gasket problem since the vacuum gets better as the car warms up. If it was just a diconnected line it would not get any better.
I have the two grounds just mated together. I did read about the grounding the second one to the chasis though.
No CEL's though
07-31-2005, 04:47 PM
#7
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (54)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 10,166
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
I have the two grounds just mated together. I did read about the grounding the second one to the chasis though.
No CEL's though
No CEL's though
-matt
07-31-2005, 05:55 PM
#8
You're running into the exact same issue I am with the Z32 MAF JWT Program.
When car first starts it idles pretty bad and vacuum keeps trying to drop to 0. Under boost for the first 10 mins of driving hte car hesitates and when coasting to a stop it will almost stall.
On really cold days (less than 45 degrees) it will buck horribly for a good 5 minutes until the car reaches operating temp - this it will drive somewhat fine and about 10 mins later it will not hesitate nearly as much. But as soon as you park it overnight you deal with the same issue again.
I also have the HKS SSQ and I have 2 running theories right now:
1) I have a very slight vacuum leak (read 18 at idle right now) that seals up when getting warmer due to the manifold expanding slightly under heat.
2) The HKS SSQ doesn't let out air at idle. cold air is denser then warm air and since the BOV isn't letting any excess out the denser air causes the MAF to freak until the air is hotter and less dense.
Of course these are just theories - I haven't had the time to track down any leaks or test with another BOV.
Of course, you have a Turbo and I have a S/C. But still - interesting you're running into the same issues I am but maybe to a lesser extent.
I just got an LM-1 - another theory is that I'm running super rich when cold for some reason. I'll be testing that as well soon.
When car first starts it idles pretty bad and vacuum keeps trying to drop to 0. Under boost for the first 10 mins of driving hte car hesitates and when coasting to a stop it will almost stall.
On really cold days (less than 45 degrees) it will buck horribly for a good 5 minutes until the car reaches operating temp - this it will drive somewhat fine and about 10 mins later it will not hesitate nearly as much. But as soon as you park it overnight you deal with the same issue again.
I also have the HKS SSQ and I have 2 running theories right now:
1) I have a very slight vacuum leak (read 18 at idle right now) that seals up when getting warmer due to the manifold expanding slightly under heat.
2) The HKS SSQ doesn't let out air at idle. cold air is denser then warm air and since the BOV isn't letting any excess out the denser air causes the MAF to freak until the air is hotter and less dense.
Of course these are just theories - I haven't had the time to track down any leaks or test with another BOV.
Of course, you have a Turbo and I have a S/C. But still - interesting you're running into the same issues I am but maybe to a lesser extent.
I just got an LM-1 - another theory is that I'm running super rich when cold for some reason. I'll be testing that as well soon.
07-31-2005, 06:13 PM
#9
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
Originally Posted by chris'smax
Maybe a fuel issue 
07-31-2005, 06:57 PM
#10
Low manifold vacuum indicates an air leak. If the vacuum comes back as the engine warms up, it means that a gasket or o-ring is poorly seated, and thermal expansion helps it to seal properly.
You might have an air leak at one of the fuel rail o-rings (the large ones) that seal the fuel rail to the lower intake manifold. If you replace or do anything to the lower/upper manifold gasket, go ahead and check out the fuel rail gaskets, too.
You might have an air leak at one of the fuel rail o-rings (the large ones) that seal the fuel rail to the lower intake manifold. If you replace or do anything to the lower/upper manifold gasket, go ahead and check out the fuel rail gaskets, too.
07-31-2005, 07:15 PM
#11
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
Not likely, a fuel issue would not get better as my idle issue does. No fuel smell and the car seems to drive fine.
Well i say that because i experience the same type of problem with the bucking and hesitation when i first put my car in drive. It idles fine but when i touch the gas it starts to buck some. It does this until the car warms up and then it drives like a dream.
I am deff leaning toward it being the ecu program since iansw and blubyu2k2 are both having the same issues. Just my 02 cents which isn't worth much
BtW does your car have a egr gasket on the intake manifold. That was part of my problem when i was having trouble.
07-31-2005, 07:20 PM
#12
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
Low manifold vacuum indicates an air leak. If the vacuum comes back as the engine warms up, it means that a gasket or o-ring is poorly seated, and thermal expansion helps it to seal properly.
You might have an air leak at one of the fuel rail o-rings (the large ones) that seal the fuel rail to the lower intake manifold. If you replace or do anything to the lower/upper manifold gasket, go ahead and check out the fuel rail gaskets, too.
You might have an air leak at one of the fuel rail o-rings (the large ones) that seal the fuel rail to the lower intake manifold. If you replace or do anything to the lower/upper manifold gasket, go ahead and check out the fuel rail gaskets, too.
Car was fine before, no idle issues no low vacuum. I have checked everything that was messed with during the install except the injectors. I will check to see if the injectors are seated properly. Would the injectors not being seated properly cause a fuel leak or just a vacuum leak?
Since you have a Z32 MAF, JWT ECU, and SAFC, what hot wire setting do you use on the SAFC? The car won't accelerate at all with 2 in 4 out. 4 in 4 out seems the best. 2 in 2 out works OK as well.
Went ahead and went full boost on it. Car just seems kinda slow. I usually have to really control the car in 2nd gear at WOT. Now it seems kinda weak. Tires hardly broke loose in 2nd. Has anyone installed a JWT ECU with the same boost levels as before the JWT ECU. Maybe it is just the retarded timing that is making the car feel slower. I have yet to put the 10psi spring in.
.....At least the extended rev limiter works.
Couple other things. When the car is driven for a while and the idle is doing fine all it takes is turning it off for a couple minutes for the idle to go bad again.
The weird part is the BOV. It makes a complete differnet noise than before. No more pulsing, just a couple pulses then psssst. Never done that before and I can't think of what would effect that.
Going to spend some more time with this set up to see if I can remedy anything. Still gonna try grounding one of the Z32 MAF ground wires to the battery. Will look at the injectors being seated properly
07-31-2005, 07:29 PM
#13
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (54)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 10,166
As long as you lubbed up the injector O-rings well, and used NEW O-rings as well, you really shouldnt have a problem with the injectors at all...if the cars running properly and driving smoothly, and idleing smoothly after it warms up, then I dont think its a fuel problem..if the car was idleing rough and bucking bad, and just all around running like Cr*p, then I would say, try the injectors..
JWT tune may be the problem...try putting in your Stock ECU, if you still have it, and idle that after it sits all night...it will be really rich but youll see if your idle issues are fixed
This the same problem I went through with installing a few things at a time..it really is a hard thing to go and trouble-shoot after the install.
-matt
JWT tune may be the problem...try putting in your Stock ECU, if you still have it, and idle that after it sits all night...it will be really rich but youll see if your idle issues are fixed
This the same problem I went through with installing a few things at a time..it really is a hard thing to go and trouble-shoot after the install.
-matt
07-31-2005, 07:40 PM
#14
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
Originally Posted by chris'smax
Well i say that because i experience the same type of problem with the bucking and hesitation when i first put my car in drive. It idles fine but when i touch the gas it starts to buck some. It does this until the car warms up and then it drives like a dream.
I am deff leaning toward it being the ecu program since iansw and blubyu2k2 are both having the same issues. Just my 02 cents which isn't worth much
BtW does your car have a egr gasket on the intake manifold. That was part of my problem when i was having trouble.
I am deff leaning toward it being the ecu program since iansw and blubyu2k2 are both having the same issues. Just my 02 cents which isn't worth much
BtW does your car have a egr gasket on the intake manifold. That was part of my problem when i was having trouble.
After the car is warmed up it drives fine. I have had no hesistation or bucking while driving.
Yes, it has an EGR gasket and it is fairly new.
I think it is probably the ECU tune as well, but I am not gonna raise hell and get my money back till I try everything I can first.
07-31-2005, 07:43 PM
#15
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (54)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 10,166
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
I am not gonna raise hell and get my money back till I try everything I can first.
Greddy Emanage Ultimate is probably in my near future, if greddy can fix their CAM sensor problem
-matt
07-31-2005, 07:49 PM
#18
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (54)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 10,166
Originally Posted by chris'smax
Judging by what blu is going through with them i think you should just send that $hit back to them and get it re-programed for just the extended rev-limiter and pick up a emanage.
Greddy Ultimate extended Rev limiter about $700
The one thing I'm not too sure about the Emanage is the Install and the Tune...Im not too familiar with all of that, and the settings and there really arent any shops near me that know either
-matt
07-31-2005, 08:23 PM
#19
Originally Posted by matty
Money back = $599
Greddy Ultimate extended Rev limiter about $700
The one thing I'm not too sure about the Emanage is the Install and the Tune...Im not too familiar with all of that, and the settings and there really arent any shops near me that know either
-matt
Greddy Ultimate extended Rev limiter about $700
The one thing I'm not too sure about the Emanage is the Install and the Tune...Im not too familiar with all of that, and the settings and there really arent any shops near me that know either
-matt
install is really simple and the emanage ultimate has a self tune feature. I am not sure how it exactly works but it should make life easier for people who are learning to tune
07-31-2005, 09:03 PM
#20
Originally Posted by chris'smax
install is really simple and the emanage ultimate has a self tune feature. I am not sure how it exactly works but it should make life easier for people who are learning to tune
Mike-test it in the morning with the 4 in 4 out. We didn't try that when the car was cold.
His car definitely was not feeling as fast as my s/c, which was only seeing 7.6 psi of peak boost.
07-31-2005, 09:24 PM
#21
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
Originally Posted by matty
As long as you lubbed up the injector O-rings well, and used NEW O-rings as well, you really shouldnt have a problem with the injectors at all...if the cars running properly and driving smoothly, and idleing smoothly after it warms up, then I dont think its a fuel problem..if the car was idleing rough and bucking bad, and just all around running like Cr*p, then I would say, try the injectors.
Originally Posted by matty
JWT tune may be the problem...try putting in your Stock ECU, if you still have it, and idle that after it sits all night...it will be really rich but youll see if your idle issues are fixed
This the same problem I went through with installing a few things at a time..it really is a hard thing to go and trouble-shoot after the install.
-matt
This the same problem I went through with installing a few things at a time..it really is a hard thing to go and trouble-shoot after the install.
-matt
07-31-2005, 09:41 PM
#22
Originally Posted by matty
Greddy Ultimate extended Rev limiter about $700
The one thing I'm not too sure about the Emanage is the Install and the Tune...Im not too familiar with all of that, and the settings and there really arent any shops near me that know either
-matt
-matt
With a WB02, you can get the UE to help setup and fine tune the injector map. Timing is a bit tricky, but if you start slow and stay conservative, it won't be too much to handle.
07-31-2005, 09:57 PM
#23
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (54)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 10,166
Ive never had an SAFC or anything near it.
I would like to get the Emanage Ultimate and the LM-1 WB02, put back in my stock ECU, then down the road once I have the emanage running alright, and knowing I wont need the JWT anymore, sell it...I just dont know all that much about the emanage, or in that matter tuning in general
-matt
I would like to get the Emanage Ultimate and the LM-1 WB02, put back in my stock ECU, then down the road once I have the emanage running alright, and knowing I wont need the JWT anymore, sell it...I just dont know all that much about the emanage, or in that matter tuning in general
-matt
07-31-2005, 10:01 PM
#24
With the Z32 MAF the best setting for me was 04in/04out also.
Funny thing is - with the JWT+Z32 Injectors+A32 MAF 04/04 also works best. EGT's are lower and it appears I am not leaning out as quickly.
Hey Mike - another thing I noticed while experimenting is this: If I pull the charge piping at the blower when it's cold and got it out of the path of charged airflow, the car idled beautifully. Put the piping back and the nasty idle returned. This is what also made me think the SSQ not releasing air has something to do with it. To tubulent in the pipe. Try that and see what you get. Shouldn't take more than a minute or two to test.
Funny thing is - with the JWT+Z32 Injectors+A32 MAF 04/04 also works best. EGT's are lower and it appears I am not leaning out as quickly.
Hey Mike - another thing I noticed while experimenting is this: If I pull the charge piping at the blower when it's cold and got it out of the path of charged airflow, the car idled beautifully. Put the piping back and the nasty idle returned. This is what also made me think the SSQ not releasing air has something to do with it. To tubulent in the pipe. Try that and see what you get. Shouldn't take more than a minute or two to test.
07-31-2005, 10:02 PM
#25
Does anyone have a JWT ECU and not have this trouble? I'm suffering from all the troubles you guys are runing on the stock ECU. I installed E-manage by its self and once all the bugs were worked out she ran like a champ. The trouble started when 2 weeks later I swapped out the injectors to the 570s and the motor started to flood at start up. I even went so far as to put a relay on the fuel pump to keep it from kicking on while the starter is engaged. That took care of the start up problem but it runs awful until operating temp is reached, although after warm up the idle is still eratic at random moments. At start up it sounds like I have a massive cam.
Is there any way to reduce the amount of fuel sprayed during warm up? It doesn't seem that anyone with the JWT ECU has gotten this problem worked out.
Is there any way to reduce the amount of fuel sprayed during warm up? It doesn't seem that anyone with the JWT ECU has gotten this problem worked out.
07-31-2005, 10:05 PM
#26
Stephen Max did it, and delio - without problems. (JWT Program, Z32 MAF)
Mike - ignore my last post - forgot you were not S/C'ed - don't know if you can easily pull the pipe like that on a Turbo setup. But if you can, give it a whirl.
Is your MAF on the charged or non-charged side Mike?
Mike - ignore my last post - forgot you were not S/C'ed - don't know if you can easily pull the pipe like that on a Turbo setup. But if you can, give it a whirl.
Is your MAF on the charged or non-charged side Mike?
07-31-2005, 10:17 PM
#27
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (54)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 10,166
Thats what Im most likely experiencing now...at start up, the cars spraying too much fuel and thats why its rough only till it warms up..This is something that JWT should have worked out...but i really only noticed this problem since I got it back from JWT when they were lookin at the EVAP code problem....UGHHH
Other than that little quirk, my car runs perfect with the JWT program, Z32 MAF
-matt
Other than that little quirk, my car runs perfect with the JWT program, Z32 MAF
-matt
08-01-2005, 03:36 AM
#28
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
After the car sat all night it was a real ***** to get it to run this moring. Stalled out 3 times before I could get it to stay running. Again, vacuum is real low and it is taking 5 minutes to get warmed up and vacuum to be normal.
One other thing I forgot. The idle air control valve is going crazy. I can hear it going in and out erratically, and this is pretty much all the time. It lessens a little after it is warmed up but still is working constantly. Just a sign of the car stuggling to idle I guess.
One other thing I forgot. The idle air control valve is going crazy. I can hear it going in and out erratically, and this is pretty much all the time. It lessens a little after it is warmed up but still is working constantly. Just a sign of the car stuggling to idle I guess.
08-01-2005, 04:39 AM
#29
See if you can get some info from an OBD scanner. With the Z32/615cc prog my car wouldn't run for **** and when I tested it the car wasn't reading the 02 sensors, and the manifold absolute pressure was barely reading like .xx. With the stock ECU everything runs great and the manifold absolute pressure reads 14.2hg's and is getting normal readings from the 02 sensors.
Last week I borrowed someones ECU with the Z32/370cc program just to see if the car would idle with it and everything worked perfect upon warm start up. So I let the car sit overnight and started it up and everything still started and idled perfect. My vacumn is still sitting at like -15 so I do have a leak somewhere but I finally determined its my ECU thats causing the problems, not the car as JWT was trying to tell me.
Last week I borrowed someones ECU with the Z32/370cc program just to see if the car would idle with it and everything worked perfect upon warm start up. So I let the car sit overnight and started it up and everything still started and idled perfect. My vacumn is still sitting at like -15 so I do have a leak somewhere but I finally determined its my ECU thats causing the problems, not the car as JWT was trying to tell me.
08-01-2005, 06:53 AM
#30
didn't mardi run the z32/370 program and then run the 555's and/or the 740's with an emanage. that would condition the injectors down more without having the start-up issue.
I know that you have already spent your $600 with jwt, but its another 2-3 months to get your ecu back.
it just idled like crap yesterday.
ian-maf is on the charge side.
I know that you have already spent your $600 with jwt, but its another 2-3 months to get your ecu back.
it just idled like crap yesterday.
ian-maf is on the charge side.
08-01-2005, 07:52 AM
#31
Has anyone with these problems gotten it to run fine on the non-charged side per JWT's suggesstion?
Mike - maybe try pulling the piping at the outlet on the Turbo (if that's a reasonable request) and seeing how it runs?
Mike - maybe try pulling the piping at the outlet on the Turbo (if that's a reasonable request) and seeing how it runs?
08-01-2005, 11:44 AM
#33
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (54)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 10,166
Originally Posted by slimer
mike, do you still have a filter for the short ram intake? then you could just take that elbow out.
-matt
08-01-2005, 03:29 PM
#35
After you start it and it is having trouble staying running, try revving it up to like 2500 or so and see if that stabilizes the idle right away. That is what I have to do to keep mine running on cold start. After I tach it to 2500rpm it idles as it should.
