410cc Injectors & Z32 MAF is in....PROBS!
410cc Injectors & Z32 MAF is in....PROBS!
Ok, so yesterday THT and I installed my injectors and my Z32 MAF. Injectors are Deatschwerks 406-410cc Injectors.
The good:
We resealed the leak where the IAT goes into the aftercooler with copper rtv. Now has a nice seal.
Found a crack in one of the vacuum lines and replaced the hose. Was seeing -17 in/hg before. Should see more now.
I soldered a two plug harness so I can switch between MAF's without having to redo the wiring.
The bad:
The car wont turn over. I can crank it. It had a funny crank sound with the a32 maf. Mike D. seemed to think that it was flooding, so I took out the fuel pump fuse and it actually turned over before it died, but it still sounded rea funny. I then put the z32 maf in and it sounded like it would crank better, but still wouldn't start. Tried the fuel pump fuse trick again and sounded better than with the a32.
I also tried bumping fp down to 28psi and as far up as 44 psi. Every combination that I had, I also did 01 01, 02 02 and 04 04 hotwire setting on the safc.
Any ideas guys?
I get off work around 6 and am going to pull the injectors again. I remember redmax had a problem with the pintle caps falling off with old deatschwerks injectors, but that happened about a year ago iirc. I will try to reseat them in the fuel rail if everything looks fine.
Oh yeah, I lubed the injectors and the fuel rail with Mobil 1 synthetic, but didn't use too much and torqued the new screws on the caps to 2 ft-lbs.
The good:
We resealed the leak where the IAT goes into the aftercooler with copper rtv. Now has a nice seal.
Found a crack in one of the vacuum lines and replaced the hose. Was seeing -17 in/hg before. Should see more now.
I soldered a two plug harness so I can switch between MAF's without having to redo the wiring.
The bad:
The car wont turn over. I can crank it. It had a funny crank sound with the a32 maf. Mike D. seemed to think that it was flooding, so I took out the fuel pump fuse and it actually turned over before it died, but it still sounded rea funny. I then put the z32 maf in and it sounded like it would crank better, but still wouldn't start. Tried the fuel pump fuse trick again and sounded better than with the a32.
I also tried bumping fp down to 28psi and as far up as 44 psi. Every combination that I had, I also did 01 01, 02 02 and 04 04 hotwire setting on the safc.
Any ideas guys?
I get off work around 6 and am going to pull the injectors again. I remember redmax had a problem with the pintle caps falling off with old deatschwerks injectors, but that happened about a year ago iirc. I will try to reseat them in the fuel rail if everything looks fine.
Oh yeah, I lubed the injectors and the fuel rail with Mobil 1 synthetic, but didn't use too much and torqued the new screws on the caps to 2 ft-lbs.
I also tried two different wirings of the z32 maf, but since the harness was from a 3rd gen max, the wires were the exact same colors as the stock wiring. when I switched the red and white wires, the maf reading was at 17%, which is bad. it didn't even want to crank at that point.
Originally Posted by slimer
I also tried two different wirings of the z32 maf, but since the harness was from a 3rd gen max, the wires were the exact same colors as the stock wiring. when I switched the red and white wires, the maf reading was at 17%, which is bad. it didn't even want to crank at that point.
Alright, pulled the codes and most of them seem to be related to some of the changes that I tried.
0102 MAFS-this is when I switched the MAF wires for the ecu.
0302 EGR-I had this last time I tried to install injectors. It seems like when you disconnect the egr for any reason, it throws this code. The bolts that hold it in are secure.
0401 IAT Sensor-This was unplugged for a couple cranks because the sealant is curing.
0504 Automatic Trans Line-I'm sure that this is from the manumatic and is a pre-existing code.
0409 & 0413 Both banks of O2 Sensors-WTF?
Does this shed any light?
0102 MAFS-this is when I switched the MAF wires for the ecu.
0302 EGR-I had this last time I tried to install injectors. It seems like when you disconnect the egr for any reason, it throws this code. The bolts that hold it in are secure.
0401 IAT Sensor-This was unplugged for a couple cranks because the sealant is curing.
0504 Automatic Trans Line-I'm sure that this is from the manumatic and is a pre-existing code.
0409 & 0413 Both banks of O2 Sensors-WTF?
Does this shed any light?
I had thre same prob when the 570's went in. What I had to do for a week is to unplug the fuel pump after the line was primed. Once the car started and blew out a pluumm of smoke, plug the pump back in and fether the throddle to make sure it dosen't die. I wouldn't let the RPMs get below 2000 until it was warm. On the z32 MAF I have no clue, I'm still running the fact meter. After about a week of the ecu learning the injectors, and some adjustments on the E-manage she was gravy.
Originally Posted by slimer
0409 & 0413 Both banks of O2 Sensors-WTF?
Does this shed any light?
Does this shed any light?
Pull your plugs and look to see if they are wet.
The cold start fuel mapping is probably injecting too much fuel with the 410's. You can bypass the cold start map by turning the ignition to on, and then using a remote start switch at the solenoid connector to start the engine.
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
A flooded engine can cause these codes. It has happened to me before.
Pull your plugs and look to see if they are wet.
The cold start fuel mapping is probably injecting too much fuel with the 410's. You can bypass the cold start map by turning the ignition to on, and then using a remote start switch at the solenoid connector to start the engine.
Pull your plugs and look to see if they are wet.
The cold start fuel mapping is probably injecting too much fuel with the 410's. You can bypass the cold start map by turning the ignition to on, and then using a remote start switch at the solenoid connector to start the engine.
Originally Posted by slimer
do you think that i should drop the base fp then, or just wire in the start push button?
Lowering the fuel pressure will help, but the push button start is probably what you really need to do.
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
A flooded engine can cause these codes. It has happened to me before.
Pull your plugs and look to see if they are wet.
The cold start fuel mapping is probably injecting too much fuel with the 410's. You can bypass the cold start map by turning the ignition to on, and then using a remote start switch at the solenoid connector to start the engine.
Pull your plugs and look to see if they are wet.
The cold start fuel mapping is probably injecting too much fuel with the 410's. You can bypass the cold start map by turning the ignition to on, and then using a remote start switch at the solenoid connector to start the engine.
That makes sense and it would be my inclination too except that I spent saturday working on I30tMikeD's and his car was starting up like a brand new car with a 98 auto ECU and 550CC injectors AND 50psi base fp... lots more fuel than slimer is running.
I have more good news. I guess when I reinstalled the manifold, I stripped the stud that ssecures it into the LIM. Dave Sz has an extra one and he and HectorC will be over later tonite to swap it out.
I have the manifold off again and all of the ball valves, pintle caps and o-rings look fine. The ball valves on the injectors seem to move easily when I gently press on them with a screw driver (as per superdave's suggestion), but it might be the fuel bonding with the screwdriver. I'm too afraid to press real hard and my eyes might be playing tricks on me.
So now I'm thinking it may be the MAF, but why wouldn't my stock one work too?
I have the manifold off again and all of the ball valves, pintle caps and o-rings look fine. The ball valves on the injectors seem to move easily when I gently press on them with a screw driver (as per superdave's suggestion), but it might be the fuel bonding with the screwdriver. I'm too afraid to press real hard and my eyes might be playing tricks on me.
So now I'm thinking it may be the MAF, but why wouldn't my stock one work too?
UPDATE
So I reisntalled the injectors and primed the fuel pump, there are no leaks from the injectors to the fuel rail. The fuel pressure stays at 35 psi (what its set to) and I'm just going to wait till those guys get here with that LIM to start her up.
So I reisntalled the injectors and primed the fuel pump, there are no leaks from the injectors to the fuel rail. The fuel pressure stays at 35 psi (what its set to) and I'm just going to wait till those guys get here with that LIM to start her up.
Originally Posted by slimer
UPDATE
So I reisntalled the injectors and primed the fuel pump, there are no leaks from the injectors to the fuel rail. The fuel pressure stays at 35 psi (what its set to) and I'm just going to wait till those guys get here with that LIM to start her up.
So I reisntalled the injectors and primed the fuel pump, there are no leaks from the injectors to the fuel rail. The fuel pressure stays at 35 psi (what its set to) and I'm just going to wait till those guys get here with that LIM to start her up.
well, when we took the lower off, cylinder 5 was flooded. I siphoned it out and we put everything back together. no leaks, nothing.
It started up pretty nice, but now it sounds kind of like a boxer engine, like one of the cylinders isn't firing or something. the 5 injectors that I could test to see if they're working work.
I got a cylinder 2 misfire code, which is at the front of the engine, so its easy to get to, but i hear the clicking that tells me that its working.
I haven't taken it for a drive, cuz we finished at midnight and I really didn't want to rev it at that time.
idle is at -18in/hg and is stoich.
Any other things that I should try?
It started up pretty nice, but now it sounds kind of like a boxer engine, like one of the cylinders isn't firing or something. the 5 injectors that I could test to see if they're working work.
I got a cylinder 2 misfire code, which is at the front of the engine, so its easy to get to, but i hear the clicking that tells me that its working.
I haven't taken it for a drive, cuz we finished at midnight and I really didn't want to rev it at that time.
idle is at -18in/hg and is stoich.
Any other things that I should try?
Are these "new" injectors? I got my 370's used and they didn't exactly work right till I tapped them a few times. That seemed to do the trick but I eventualy pulled them and had'm cleaned and flowed. I had a nasty sounding 3cyl there for a few minutes. Pull the injector plugs till you find the dead cyls and tap that injector or pull the plug to check for fouling.
At least it's back alive!!!
~Scott
At least it's back alive!!!

~Scott
Try to put a relay on the green and red wire in the two pin plug at the fuel pump. Cut the wire in half. Pin 30 goes to the green and red on the fuel pump side. Pin 87A goes to the other green and red. Pin 85 goes to the starter wire at the colum, and 86 goes to ground. This will turn the pump off while you start so that it doesn't flood. When you do start, turn the ignition on for a few seconds for the line to get pressure, then she'll crank right up. I'm running 60 psi on the regulator right now and after the ecu adjusted to the change, she purrs like a kitten. My 570's are very noisy but they do work perfectly, Dave did a great job on them.
I will say at first it was no where near the sound of a flat four, more like pure crap! That will get you running, BTW are you running a SAFC or Emanage, I forget.
I will say at first it was no where near the sound of a flat four, more like pure crap! That will get you running, BTW are you running a SAFC or Emanage, I forget.
Thanks.
I actually took a test drive tonite and the engine shakes badly and seems like it does not have any power. No codes though.
THe IACV sounds like its going crazy too, so I will be checking the vacuum lines again during the daylight.
I also bumped fp down to 34psi, it was idling around 40 before.
I will bypass the supercharger this weekend and then do a compression test.
I may ask blackbirdvq to come over to check it with a consult too.
I actually took a test drive tonite and the engine shakes badly and seems like it does not have any power. No codes though.
THe IACV sounds like its going crazy too, so I will be checking the vacuum lines again during the daylight.
I also bumped fp down to 34psi, it was idling around 40 before.
I will bypass the supercharger this weekend and then do a compression test.
I may ask blackbirdvq to come over to check it with a consult too.
**UPDATE**
I wiggled all of the harnesses that I could find and then got another cylinder 2 misfire. I guess it was that connector that was causing problems.
After everything was running fine, the belt hopped a rib. Gotta love those Gatorback's!
I drove 50 miles already today with no codes. I haven't taken it into full boost yet.
Supercharged set-up now includes
Vortech V2 SQ-Trim
3.33 Pulley
3" CAI
Turbo XS Type-H BOV
Z32 MAF
Custom Air-Water Aftercooler
410cc DeatschWerks Injectors
2.5" Budget Exhaust Y-Pipe
2.5" Warpspeed Test Pipe
2.5" OBX Prototype-H Exhaust
Zeitronix Wideband O2 with Boost and EGT Sensors
Apex-i SAFC-II
I wiggled all of the harnesses that I could find and then got another cylinder 2 misfire. I guess it was that connector that was causing problems.
After everything was running fine, the belt hopped a rib. Gotta love those Gatorback's!
I drove 50 miles already today with no codes. I haven't taken it into full boost yet.
Supercharged set-up now includes
Vortech V2 SQ-Trim
3.33 Pulley
3" CAI
Turbo XS Type-H BOV
Z32 MAF
Custom Air-Water Aftercooler
410cc DeatschWerks Injectors
2.5" Budget Exhaust Y-Pipe
2.5" Warpspeed Test Pipe
2.5" OBX Prototype-H Exhaust
Zeitronix Wideband O2 with Boost and EGT Sensors
Apex-i SAFC-II
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