I received the Innovative LC-1 and XD-1 in the mail the other day witch is the same thing as the LM-1 but with the external Gauge.

Im wondering where I should have the 02 sensor welded in on the exhuast. ?? Should I put it where the two banks come together at the Y or would it be better in the Test pipe ?? Im putting in my full 3" exhaust and i wanna put it in the right spot...I also have the EGT bung as well... I dont have all the much wire to work with between the LC-1 Unit and the 02 sensor and they say to mount it under that car on the frame, but Id rather have it inside the cabin...

any ideas would be perfect...

I only read the book once and its all kinda confusing...

-matt

 

i think on the downpipe like a foot away from the turbo. Just get a O2 sensor bung welded in. Then screw in the wideband O2.

 

Supercharger by the way

-matt

 

Near the flex, you want it to get a reading of both manifolds.

 

thats what I figured but how come when you go and get dynoed and they hook ya up, they usually hook it up to the Test pipe...thats how it got its name right >

I jsut didnt want to mess up the Y-pipe for future sale but I guess theres no alternative...

Where the two manifolds meet it is ! Thats where I have the EGT bung right now


-matt

 

Yeah, you want it to read off of both sides. The shop puts it in the test pipe because its easy, just like a lot of them use the sniffer in the tail pipe. Put it before the test pipe, you need to be able to run a cat for emissions testing still. My LM-1 came with a plug that could be put in when not using the wideband, so if you sell the downpipe, just put that in. I actually used that as a selling feature on my downpipe, already have an O2 sensor bung welded in! ha ha.

 

I put mine about 6 inches after my stock o2 sensor in my Ypipe. I didn't weld my bung in my testpipe just b/c I wanted to be able to easily install my stock cat for any emissions testing that might arrive in the future. Eastern NC doesn't have emissions. :-D But where I use to live, did.

 

I have mine in the down pipe 18 inches from the turbo, but if I was to put it on a super charger car I'd put it rite before the test pipe. That way if you ever have to put the cat back on, you can still have an untainted reading if the cat ever goes back on. I love trees...............but that daaaaammmnnnn cat slows me down.

 

I have the innovative Unit LC-1..Do i need the Pyrometer now that Im going to have the WB02 ?? I already have it all wired up but when my new exhasut goes in i dont want an unnessecary holes....I was thinking the WB riht after the Flex section and the Pyrometer ill put on the rear bank to moniter the rear ??....Im not sure what to do with the Pyrometer now...do I take it out, sell it and find another gauge for my triple gauge pod ??


-matt

 

I still have my egt gauge. I don't pay much attention to it, but it came in handy as a backup when my WB O2 sensor crapped out and gave wildly fluctuating readings. A look at my egt gauge confirmed it was the WB and not a problem with afr.

 

Yeah, I agree. If you have one, then I'd install it as backup. But if you don't have one, a functional wideband should be all you need to tune for fuel. I've tuned my fuel just fine with the PLX Devices wideband that I have. I can't imagine tuning it with just an EGT gauge.

 

I like my pyrometer there to monitor how hot the engine is running, not for afr.

 

not trying to jack this thread, but i can't post new threads yet, stupid noob status i guess.

anyway, what is a good pyrometric temp to see off the gauge? What temp would correspond with what A/f ratio?

any info is greatly appreciated
-paul

 

c'mon guys, any info about a pyrometer and a/f. i figure most people just use it to say, "oh, the car is lean/rich" but i want to know if certain temps can indicate a certain a/f ratio. i figure it's not a good way to measure it, but i want to know if it's even possible.

 

it really isnt possibly...the Pyrameter is just to get an overview temp of the engine. the guage acts very slowly and really woundnt serve a good purpase for tuning. The A/F ratio is digitial and presice.

-matt

 

You don't want the EGT sensor more than 2 inches from the heads exhaust port. So you need to drill and tap the manifold to install it. If you read the egt gauge directions it'll tell you this. Also I believe the passenger side back cylinder is the hottest?

 

There are too many variables involved, the main one being how far the probe is from the cylinder head. What you need to do is have your car dynoed with a wideband and note the maximum egt during a dyno run and compare with your afr. Then later on if you deviate significantly from your baseline when doing a WOT run you'll know something is up.

Keep in mind that a lower egt is not always a good thing. For instance, egt's will drop pretty drastically when the engine is detonating. Also, the maximum egt will be at an afr a little richer than stoichiometric. Going leaner or richer from that point will result in a drop in egt.

 

Will i need to have the WB sensor welded in on a angle onto the exhaust to elminate the 02 sensor from getting moisture on it? How much clearance is there available for me to do this ?? should I just put it straight through the side on a flat plain ? the book sais veritcal

-matt

 

I have mine coming in from the side.

 

Where the Y comes together ?? or after the flex alittle bit down stream ?

-matt

 

Thank you stephen!

 

hey Matty....if you dont mind me asking..where did you get the innovative wideband at?

 

If you're tuning the car yourself (I know you don't like getting on dynos) then get the LM-1 with RPM converter because it can datalog A/F vs. RPM (you can also log 4 other signals).

LM-1 with RPM converter (also called LMA-2) retails for $589.00 and the XD-1 gauge retails for $229.00. Call this place and ask for Greg http://www.gscmotorsports.com/info/?id=250 Let him know you're from EvolutionM.net and see how much he charges.

I have the LMA-2 and XD-1 sitting in front of me to get installed, but I'm waiting for the patch harness from GSC because I don't want to splice the ECU harness.

 

Oh... tell him you saw the deal here:
http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthr...highlight=lm-1 (I don't know if you want the S-AFC II or not), but you definitely don't need the Evo ECU harness.

 

Sorry to hijack the thread but why place the o2 sensor on the down pipe not on the feed pipe? This regarding a turbo....
with the o2 in the down pipe, 1-2 ft away from turbo sufficient?

 

I got mine from http://www.forgedinternals.com/store...cat=257&page=1 Very nice buy, good service. I got the LC-1 witch comes with the XD-1 gauge and had the exact same features as the LM-1. Ill be going Emanage so im not worried about tuning though my WB

Hope I helped

-matt

 

Exhaust gas is too hot there and will shorten the life of the O2. Also, the LM-1 might not read correctly or at all even. Innovative recommends putting it in front of the cat (I believe they also say about 36" away from the turbo).

 

To Power up the LC-1 and XD-1 will the CIG 12V Source be alright to use ? Im running all my gauges off of it and my Harlan...I spoke to a guy on the Innovate site and he said alot of guys use the CIG 12V source and have problems, but i may not on a maxima, and alot of guys find an " dedicated hardwired 12VDC switched circuit with its own fuse">....will that be neccesary ??

-matt

 

If it's a 12V ignition source then yes. I have mine boost controller wired up to the cigarette lighter on the Evo (12V ignition), but the concept should be the same as the Max (I've never used the cigarette lighter as a power source though).

What you can also do if you don't think that will work is to use the fuse box, but make sure it's a 12V ignition source (not 12V constant). There were plenty of open slots that you can use. I remember wiring up the Valentine 1, all the gauges (3), AFC, and RSM through the fuse box.

I've wired up the XD-1 to an empty slot on the fuse box and the LM-1 to the ECU (since I have a patch harness). When it comes down to it, just make sure it's a 12V ignition source (check with multimeter).

 

Matt, I'm using the Innovate WB, and the cig power source is a problem, mine will crap out at the top of each of my gears and re"warm up" One of these days I plan on hardwiring it to a different 12v power source.

 

I know NOTHING about wiring other than getting my 12V source from the CIG lighter. Can anyone please run over how to do it, or give me a website that explains it. what size fuse do I run and will i need to tap the fuse box once or twice for the XD-1 and LC-1 ??

-matt

 

Use this as an example:
http://www.freestyleconcepts.com/v1.html

You can copy this person's process by splicing into a 12V ignition wire or modify a male "Gardner Bender 16-14 gauge Vinyl Insulated Fork Terminal" (found on Home Depot with keyword "splice") to fit in one of the fuse slots in the 8th picture down http://www.freestyleconcepts.com/images/v1/P1010223.JPG .

You can look at the fuse cover to see what each slot does (i.e. 12V constant, 12V ignition, etc.). Pick the one that gives power when the ignition is on (confirm with a multimeter).


Hi Nigel!!!

 

Wideband Bung before or after the Flex Section ?? If you look before the Flex section, the two down pipes are merging together and it doesnt really look like ill get a good reading on both banks. if i put it on the right side ill get the front and if i put it on the left side ill get the rear bank of cylinders. Should the bung go behind the flex ??
Straight in from the side or on a slight Upward angle ?

-matt

 

I don't remember how much clearance there is but 12 o'clock would be the best. I would do it after the flex (before the cat).

Do NOT have the O2 between 3 and 9 o'clock because condensation will damage the sensor.


Side note: The a/f was pretty accurate when I dynoed my car today, but we all know that should be the case.

 

I dont really think there is enough clearance to do it at 12 oclock because getting a wrench up in there would be dam* near impossible and Ill be insalling the wideband after I leave the shop on jack stands since I cant really put the Wideband into the car before I hook the sensor up....is it ok to put it at 9 oclock or of course on the other hand 3 oclock ??

-matt

 

Yup, it's ok. As long as you don't have it between 3 and 9.

My Tomei sensor was at 3/9 o'clock.

 

Ill be PMing you when I go and wire this bad boy up..

matt

 

Sure, sounds good.

 

Hey matty, i just picked up Mardi's old 3" one. If its not finished by the time I get it, I'll take another look at it for you.

 

You mention that positioning it at 12 (noon) is ideal, but also say that between 3 and 9 will cause condensation on the sensor. So is it basically fine to put it at 12, 3 and 9, but no other positions? What about 6?
What about positioning it at let's say 7 causes the condensation to form?