Ok I am looking at getting Matty’s V1 plate and building my own kit. I have gotten the install guide and parts list to figure out what I need. Going off the parts list from sticky I figure I don’t need any of the air filter assembly parts cause I would make a CAI setup going to fender. I also wouldn’t need the crankcase breather hose assembly cause I would run a filter off the crankcase. Auxiliary fuel pump I wouldn’t need because of getting a walbro 255. I wouldn’t need the Idler pulley and thermostat housing cause I comes with matty’s plate. From looking at pics the fuse box relocation just moves it closer to strut tower so that isn’t a big deal. From looking at pics of the power steering lines is your just rerouting them. What I can’t see is how it’s being connected under the power steering reservoir. What’s the windshield washer bottle assembly. Would I have a problem with that if I am running the CAI setup. I wouldn’t need a 5 way splitter for vacuum lines cause I wouldn’t be using the aux fuel pump I would need just a 4 way. Ok now for the things I do need. Of coarse needing the bolts which is easy to get from fastenal. I would need everything associated with the SC assembly. I am getting the 3.25 pulley. I would need all the oil feed lines and fittings. For fuel pump assembly section that just covers the FMU correct. I would basically get all that when I purchase a 8:1 FMU minus the hoses correct. I got it covered on the BOV. What about the belt adjuster/ pulley part. I would have to get that from stillen wouldn’t I.. Modified oil drain back plates can be made just be looking at pics so if anybody has some pics I could see to make them. Is there anything I left out.

you can use the stock adjuster. thats the beauty of the v1 plate

You will need the j-plate. matty and i are talking about this.

Steve

You may want to call up stillen and see if they have the Overflow relocator for the radiator. You can either put your windsheild washer bottle on the other side of the car, like i did, or totally rule it out which isnt a big deal for people in warm climates...they use alot of salt by me.

FMU can be found on ebay when you purchase your blower, if you get from ebay.

SS line for feed, -6AN (summit racing) with fittings for your oil pressure sender...The drain line for the blower is the stock nissan part for the front valve cover vent tube. (**you will need to trim it a bit, if not it will Kink**)
You use your stock adjuster thats on your car...Thats the the V1 plate is so good..there is more "contact" to the blower/pulley...

As for the drain back plate (J-Plate) you will need it !...you can have it made but it will need to be perfect....remember, thats a $72 part from nissan, so you mess that up, it can get pricey....I am getting a few from nissan and I will have them made, but thats AFTER I get a few convertion kits out (Everything you'll need to switch from V2 to V1)...
I dont really want to clutter this guy up with more work...once he makes my kits, ill take the J-plate down to him with a few stock plate to have made...kind of an insentive to people that want to build there own kit on a budget...

The "Supercharge Starter Kit" will come with the V1 plate, Thermostat Housing, New Thermostat, Idler Pulley, Oil Drain Back Plate (J-Plate), All the bolts needed for your crank case, and ALL the large bolts you will need to hook your blower to the plate

Its going to be a Sweeet kit

-Matt

I will have a vortech fmu fs soon as well.

That's cool. ebay it's hit and miss on a sc so I am thinking of just getting a new one from vortech. Price for the V2 is $2042.00 not shipped.

get the t-trim.

nice job fellas...the charge piping, and mounting plate are really the main things that are specific to the maxima....everything else is easily attainable...and matty, the stainless steel oil feed line is #4 i thought.... those are on ebay for 20 shipped, 4 foot -4an ss line...., the oil t for the sending unit can be easily made in the plumbing section of home depot, lol...

i learned all this from putting a kit together for my friends max...but matty has it covered for the most part....

I had a chance to get a V1 t-trim for $1800 on ebay but had wrong rotation.

well you have a little time to piece the kit together.

I got a 4 ft piece of NOS ss line and it has worked perfectly. make sure you zip tie it securely to the oil pan.

do you have any plans for something unique?

Not really any plans for being unique. I have been looking at all threads on here on different setups. For my CAI tube I am going to have the MAF sensor made into the tube right before SC like AEM has with all there Mafs. Chrome the pipes. Powdercoat the SC Plate blue. Still deciding on the BOV. Either the Blitz DD or the Greddy RS.

Here's a question I have. I heard on different types of cars they have the BOV b4 the MAF because the MAF has allready accounted for the the air in the charge pipe. Having it after the MAF would cause it to go rich once letting off gas cause you are getting rid of the air in the piping.

If you have your MAF before your Blower inlet, you will need to vent the BOV valve air back into the inlet stream because when the BOV is releasing air, that is meatered air and cant be "Vented to the Atmosphere". Thats the only reason why I kept my MAF in the stock spot on the charged side

The Vortech Race is a good BOV. It realeases a Boat load of air. I like the function of the Vortech. The mondo even moves more air.

But the 00-01 kit is before. So I would have to recurculate. I read in here but could be wrong that the 00-01 MAF can't handle being on the charged side.

Yea..if its going onto a 5th gen, you will need to put it before the Blower...Im not to familiar with the 5th gen kits but I know they have a second cross over pipe boing back the other way with the MAF on that.

-matt

Didn't Y2kevse have his bov after the MAF.

Im sure you can get away with routing the pipe like the 4th gens have it...straight accross with the MAF on the charged side and proceeding with your Cold Air Setup in your Wheel well...I really cant see the 5th gen MAF being more fragile than the 4th gen...

-matt

so if i get the walbro 255 i dont need the regulator and the external fuel pump? or i just need the regulator? i think without it you would have a rich mixture?

You wont 100% need a fuel pressure regulator. I know many guys that run the Walbro without an aftermarkey FPR....It is good to have to bring down base fuel pressure since the walbro bumps base fuel pressure to about 45psi

-matt

My MAF would be before blower and BOV on charged pipe. I don't have a problem recurculating rather then going to atmosphere. I can't find any of kev's older pics but remember seeing one with his greddy type s BOV right before TB.