ran at the track
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,385
From: oburg S.C.
ran at the track
I ran at the track on saturday and I had the street z tires and rims on the front. I did my previous best time on 10psi with no cams or head work. I ran almost a whole second slower than my previous time. I made my pass at 9psi with the head work and the cams.But due to spinning it was worst. When i shifted to 3rd gear they starting spinning bad. My 1/8 was like a 9.5 but yet the 1/4 time was like 14.2. Well I know that im making more power at 9psi with a very rich air/fuel ratio. I could not get a kock level over 18 at the track ....thats very rich to me. The plugs are black. But yet the tires would cut loose in third. So I need tires and a tune before i will return to the track. oh yeah trying to launch at 2400 rpms my 60ft was like 2.4
It's because you're not making the power you think you should be. Trap speed is a direct result of the power your car is putting out and how much your car weighs. What does your dyno look like? Do you have a scan of it we can see?
also if you spin a lot your trap speed will be higher...its kinda like getting a running start, because once you finally do hook up your car will 'take off'. This is all assuming you stay in it when you are spinning. your e.t.'s will get higher but your trap speed goes up.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,385
From: oburg S.C.
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
It's because you're not making the power you think you should be. Trap speed is a direct result of the power your car is putting out and how much your car weighs. What does your dyno look like? Do you have a scan of it we can see?
I dont know why I was thinking 260 it was 232.5
Originally Posted by 93turbo gxe
only the old dyno sheat ......before 260hp and 340 torque
Boost spikes will do that, and cars that just don't flow as well up top, VGs are an engine that doesn't flow that great I think, I know he has ported heads and what not, but I don't know who ported them. It's possible to port heads and have them be worse than they were originally. Just a possibility. Without a flowbench or a conclusive before/after dyno or consistent track times both before and after the mod, it's hard to tell what a mod did and whether the results were positive or negative. Unfortunately how it "feels" is often a result of placebo effect.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,385
From: oburg S.C.
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
Boost spikes will do that, and cars that just don't flow as well up top, VGs are an engine that doesn't flow that great I think, I know he has ported heads and what not, but I don't know who ported them. It's possible to port heads and have them be worse than they were originally. Just a possibility. Without a flowbench or a conclusive before/after dyno or consistent track times both before and after the mod, it's hard to tell what a mod did and whether the results were positive or negative. Unfortunately how it "feels" is often a result of placebo effect.
Originally Posted by 93turbo gxe
hey guys I have not redynoed since the cams and ported heads. That dyno was with Stock heads and stock cams. But at 10 psi back then the tires would not start roasting in the top of second gear like they will now. and they even spin when you shift from2nd to 3rd for a breif second. Thats why I thought that I may would have more power at the same boost level(10 psi) thats why I was wondering why my trap was down at the track
Jeremy
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,385
From: oburg S.C.
[QUOTE=maxmaxima91]Different weather conditions can contribute to that greatly, as can a tougher clutch. and didnt you have drag radials on last time you ran the track.
Jeremy[/QUOTNo I had full street tires on the last time and before thehead work and cams when I ran my best time i had street tires on and heavy crome wheels.
Jeremy[/QUOTNo I had full street tires on the last time and before thehead work and cams when I ran my best time i had street tires on and heavy crome wheels.
hmm.. sounds like something is keeping your from makeing the power you think you should be then.. What size turbo do you have? and how much power are you trying to push out of it? Also is there anything else in your setup that you think could be limiting your performace?
Jeremy
Jeremy
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,385
From: oburg S.C.
Originally Posted by maxmaxima91
hmm.. sounds like something is keeping your from makeing the power you think you should be then.. What size turbo do you have? and how much power are you trying to push out of it? Also is there anything else in your setup that you think could be limiting your performace?
Jeremy
Jeremy
ok got a Stock ct26 I ran my best time on 11psi with stock heads and cams and I ran the other week at 9psi. Dam what a differance!Not unless me being so rich is holding back that much power? I did not think that it would be no 30 hp I guess I need to get on the dyno and see what up at 10 psi like I dyno before the work!
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,385
From: oburg S.C.
This is the dyno I did on stock heads and cams At 10psi That I ran my best trap of 105 on. the rpms are off just a bit. The dyno was fine and I talked to locals and they daid its a good working dyno. Their was A guy with a ford focus that dyno right after me and he said that is was right on cue with his previous dyno the week before. Org member BLU may came chime in on this and let you know about this dyno. I started at 2000 rpms and ran it up to 4000rpms the graph show me to stop at about 4200 to 4400
You realy need to get a wideband in the car and get your AFR's right. "RICH" or thinking your rich isn't going to get you anywhere. You'll need the wideband and
the correct O2's to shoot for at WOT and all other loads. That upper plenum is also unballanced along with the pipe leading to it. I almost did cams like you did but decided to stay stock being that my Maxima is realy my winter beater.
Before and after head work/cams all comes down to tune at this point. Since you don't know your AFR's before and still don't know your AFR's now there's no place to start!
Information is critical to tune and power. That's why some guys with all stock parts or little money are running quicker times and mph than those with big money in there cars. All the money and parts in the world won't fix a tune problem.
~Scott
the correct O2's to shoot for at WOT and all other loads. That upper plenum is also unballanced along with the pipe leading to it. I almost did cams like you did but decided to stay stock being that my Maxima is realy my winter beater.
Before and after head work/cams all comes down to tune at this point. Since you don't know your AFR's before and still don't know your AFR's now there's no place to start!
Information is critical to tune and power. That's why some guys with all stock parts or little money are running quicker times and mph than those with big money in there cars. All the money and parts in the world won't fix a tune problem.
~Scott
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,385
From: oburg S.C.
Originally Posted by Boosted Maxima
You realy need to get a wideband in the car and get your AFR's right. "RICH" or thinking your rich isn't going to get you anywhere. You'll need the wideband and
the correct O2's to shoot for at WOT and all other loads. That upper plenum is also unballanced along with the pipe leading to it. I almost did cams like you did but decided to stay stock being that my Maxima is realy my winter beater.
Before and after head work/cams all comes down to tune at this point. Since you don't know your AFR's before and still don't know your AFR's now there's no place to start!
Information is critical to tune and power. That's why some guys with all stock parts or little money are running quicker times and mph than those with big money in there cars. All the money and parts in the world won't fix a tune problem.
~Scott
the correct O2's to shoot for at WOT and all other loads. That upper plenum is also unballanced along with the pipe leading to it. I almost did cams like you did but decided to stay stock being that my Maxima is realy my winter beater.
Before and after head work/cams all comes down to tune at this point. Since you don't know your AFR's before and still don't know your AFR's now there's no place to start!
Information is critical to tune and power. That's why some guys with all stock parts or little money are running quicker times and mph than those with big money in there cars. All the money and parts in the world won't fix a tune problem.
~Scott
I was just wondering, are you sure that dyno is right? From the sheet is says that your torque is peaking at around 2600 rpm, that looks more like a v8 dyno. It also stops at 4200rpm, did you let off? Maybe I'm just missing something.
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