MaXtUneD

iTrader: (2)

Last week Tuesday..Started car(started fine) and I drove to class (drove fine) and took my final which was an 1 1/2 long...

I went to my car, Tried to start the car, wouldnt start..Tried jump starting, no help there...Battery was fine. Tried to start the car several times even trying to press on the gas (half way, then all the way) to see if it would start..It did not...The car sounded like it wanted to start because I can see the rpm creeping up a few hundred rpms..(0-200) but it just wouldnt.

So, I called my friend to pick us up...When she came, I wanted to see if my car would start again, and IT DID...Why???

Same thing happened today, I drove around going shopping, went to my car, I tried to start it 3 times and it didnt..I waited about 10 minutes, when I tried to start it, i put some gas into it, and it started...Why??

REMEMBER: This only happens when the engine is warm(After being driven)...Never happens when engine is cold....

Things I changed recently are IACV, Fuel filter, cleaned PCV valve, Ran seafoam through IM and gas tank...Fuel pressure is at 34(About to raise it to 36 as recommended by FSM)...

Fuel pump works because when I have key on, I can hear the pump "Buzzing"..

I have JWT ECU, z32 maf(noncharged), 370cc injectors, nismo AFPR...

Also, Who here has successfully ran stock ecu with Z32 maf(charged side) and 370cc injectors with no problems like startup, drivability, etc...

matty

iTrader: (54)

I have on a 4th gen. Startup was 100 times better then the JWT. With the JWT on start up I get a loopy idle, up and down, up and down, and cold driveable is HORRIBLE.... Didnt really run it hard without the JWT because I dont have my Wideband hooked up yet. Once it get it hooked up im going to pop the JWT out again and try the stock ECU again.

-matt

subs1000w

an engine only needs 3 things to start fuel, air and spark

keep a can of starter fluid or carb cleaner in your car then when this happens again try spraying some into the intake and see if it will start then if it does you have a fuel problem if it still dont start pull a spark plug and see if its soaked in gas if it is you have a spark problem

ive had issues like this before with the car starting right up when cold but strugling when warm but the car would always start it would just need to crank longer and id have to hold the throttle open i never figured out why though proboly something stupid like a loose or corroded ground that expands just enough when warm to mess everything up

MaXtUneD

iTrader: (2)

Ok..i'll do that...

But, why does it start up after waiting for a couple minutes...???
When the first time it happened, an hour had gone by, then it started up fine.....

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

Stock ECU, 550's, Z32 MAF. Starts right up every time.

MaXtUneD

iTrader: (2)

What is your air/fuel ratio at idle?
Also, what is your fuel pressure at?

I assume you have some type of air/fuel controller...

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

Close to stoich at idle, but it is pretty damn rich at any curising throttle. It is only really tuned at WOT when using the stock ECU (I also have a JWT ECU I don't use much).

50psi of base fuel pressure

SAFC-II

MaXtUneD

iTrader: (2)

50 psi...dang..
Arent 4th gen maximas stock fuel pressure around 36-40psi?

Anyways...UPDATE!!!

well..I went to my car yesterday morning to start it to go to work...
I started it..and holy crap bad idle...Idle was around +- 750 rpms...

engine sounded like it just wanted to die out on me..So I revved it a couple times to see if the idle would get better..NOPE...so i tried to keep the throttlw at a consistent rpm..around 2500 rpm for maybe 10 seconds...idle still was crap...

So, I member from before that I turned off the car and turned it back on and idle was back to normal..

Sooooo....I turn the car off and to my luck, I cant turn on my car..its just cranks and cranks and cranks...

Things I've tried that didnt work...
1)Tired to start the car with throttle wide open (eliminates IACV from being the problem since I just replace it new)..
2) replace JWT ecu with stock ecu and moved Z32 MAF back to charged side..
3)Checked for vacuum leaks and I couldn't find any..

Would a Bad MAF cause the no start?
What about my CAM sensor? My Downpipe runs right next to the cam sensor probablly 1/2 inch away from it..Cam sensor is covered with heat wrap and so is the downpipe..Over the past year, would the hear from the downpipe just shorten the life of the cam sensor?

subs1000w

have you tryed either of the 2 BASIC no start trouble shooting things i mentioned you either have a spark issue or a fuel issue and its really easy to figure out which one or could be both but really cant help you till you diagnose it better and throwing new parts at it is the worst way to trouble shooting anything

jcy98maxse

iTrader: (8)

I agree. You need to find the basics first, when I replace my motor it wouldn't start and I tried many other things that I though could be wrong like sensors but I never checked for the basics and when I did, it turned out to be a simple fuel problem. So like subs said check those first before you try anything else that way we can be more helpful.
When I check for spark, I pulled the plug out, connected to a coil pack and ground the plug. That way I can see if each cylinder has spark that way if it is a spark problem I can narrow down to which cylinder.

A33 VQ30DEK

iTrader: (23)

maybe you have a bad relay.

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

I had a similiar problem with my car. Wanted to start but it would not start. The starter was turning the motor and it still would not start. I bought new battery and that did not fix it. Then bought a new starter and it started right up.

If when you insert and turn the key and nothing happens then it is your key ignition switch.

subs1000w

i dont understand if your old starter was turning the motor fine then why would you replace the starter did the new one spin the motor faster or somthing

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

the starter was messed up it was broken. It was never the battery.