samsonite

3 weeks, way too much money, and 4 busted knuckles later I finally have my boost back. I pulled the blower the first time to change the belt which had finally shredded to 3 ribs. I had to drill out the two flat head cap screws holding the plate on. Then after cracking the plate on the way out...DAMN...I had to drill all 7 bold holding the blower on. They were rediculously too tight. Tried cheater bar, impact, etc. No luck...rounded them all out. Had the plate welded and put it back in. Within 24 hours...shredded belt two. I went for about a week on the stock belt while reassessing my problem. I at first thought maybe the two screws behind the pulley were allowig the blower pulley to pull away from the engine causing missalignment. But i kept thinking the distance betweent the blower pulley and the two idlers should allow for a decent amount of missalignment....1/4 inch missalignment between two pulleys 5 inches apart causes a more severe belt angle than two pulleys 14 inches apart. I was going to put helicoils in them but opted to screw it. I did notice though after my second belt shredded to 2 ribs that it was being pushed out on the shoulderless idler. I knew this had to be the source of my problem... between the idler and alternator....not the blower. I pulled the plate again and put on my second replacement belt. I saw that there was a little play in the bushing in the idler on the 1/2 bolt. Obviously not a great thing but it did allow me to file the mounting post where it bolts to change the pulley angle. The problem was that the idler axis was not parallel to the blower and alt. causing the belt to essentially be pushed towards the whell and then the alt. would cut it. I finally understand what everyone means about the V2 plate flexing...its at the idler pulley peninsula if you will. BUT...if you properly bolt it down it will be corrected. I ended up getting metal pullies made and putting a washer behind the stand-off that the little allen screw goes into to help undo the Bow in the plate. I also realized that i think the last time i bolted the plate up i did not tighten down the bottom allen screw all the way. So... the plate was still bent causing the pulleys axis to be all FUBAR. Once it was bolted down properly everything looks good. The belt shows no signs of rubbing and the car is pulling like demon. I can't tell you all how much i missed my boost. I have spent entirely too much time thinking about this whole issue so if anyone is having the same problems and needs to bounce some ideas off someone im available. I wouldnt' mind to have a steel V1 plate but i cant afford it right now. Luckly, I am not confident that if installed/adjusted properly the V2 plate is a viable option. Best of luck all. Time to drive.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Glad to hear you have your car back up and running. You say the above phrase two or three times in your verbage. Are you implying that it was never installed correctly to begin with? "Properly" mounting the bracket to the car is mandatory. I often think that poor installation is the real culprit when it comes to belt shredding.

kingpin2006

I think i have the same issue, the belt is running down the idler pulley is at the edge and it rolls off the Alt pulley by 1 rib, i put this fix on the back burner for now and running on the stock belt. not sure is the v1 plate might be the easiest fix.

OC_Nooby

iTrader: (11)

Listen to him...He knows his stuff.

HomerMAC

iTrader: (5)

propper install and an untouched plate. Ive seen a perfect v2 plate installed and run BEAUTIFUL 1st try. then shotened the idler pulley feet to bring the pulley closer to the engine so it runs on the "center". the flat surface of the now shortened leg was skewed ever so slightly making the pulley sit at a slight angle. BOOM kept throwing the belt into the plate (shredding). Took the plate to a machine shop and had them flatten the "feet" down perfectly. installed and the belt rode center and no rubbing anything.

Its so hard to find an un modified plate (esp.) v2 cause people love to cut that aluminum up. and Matty's v1 is an expensive option on top of the .org SC kit.

everybody going into SC-ing look for un modified plates. ESP v2.

matty

iTrader: (54)

Expensive ?? Stillen was charging $789 JUST FOR THE V2 Plate. The Steel plate and Aluminum Thermostat housing arent cheap parts to make. I think I have done a lot for the Supercharger community.

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

I agree, it may seem like a lot but this is a specialty item, and of good quality.
Source parts from other sources is very time consuing and still a gamble. With Matty's items you know they will fit and work properly.

QT1 5MT AE

iTrader: (6)

had matty's v1 kit for 2.5 years, first time it went on, never came back off.

HomerMAC

iTrader: (5)

Never said you didnt do anything for the SC community.

Its a quality item, however it is costly in addition to spending $2000 on a V2 "kit" and then getting the V1 upgrade.

Your plate has proven it self, you dont have to chime in with any support. I agree that it is a custom item and of good quality. If anyone gets just a blower, your plate is the way to go, but is still expensive if you go get a v1 "KIT" then upgrade to the v1...

The cost of making a plate im sure is costly, I have no idea..., The Alum therm housing that you sell, I did manage to make one off an old housing that I picked of VIPmax's ride. It came out to less than what you charge.

I use currently a un modified v2 plate that works well. I encourage people with un-modified v2 plates to check install and if you feel the plate is modified beyond your ability to fix, go get matty's plate.

With all that said, I also have in my possesion a v1 plate and like I said a therm housing I made. I plan to use it in the near future. Its def. a great plate. ( I have a black powdercoat.)