Which Diodes are required for Ignition harness?
04-11-2006, 07:56 PM
#5
I used to work in a stereo shop, and I just grabbed a set out of the bin, that we used to diode isolate door triggers. It is a low current signal, so any old diode will work.
I know you know someone in the business, go gank some.
Off the top of my head I cant remember which way the anode goes, I'll have to untape the harness.
Choray
PS I'm taking the **** BOX O DEATH for emissions in the morn. Pray for me!
I know you know someone in the business, go gank some.
Off the top of my head I cant remember which way the anode goes, I'll have to untape the harness.
Choray
PS I'm taking the **** BOX O DEATH for emissions in the morn. Pray for me!
04-11-2006, 08:05 PM
#6
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
BTW, I don't think it was ever 100% a fix...just don't leave your key in the "ON" position with the car off for long.
04-11-2006, 08:10 PM
#7
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
Or just reroute the EB power from the fuel pump relay and that problem will be solved.
Choray
04-11-2006, 08:17 PM
#8
What SR20 was trying to say is that if you wire emanage power to the fuel pump relay, the emanage will not stay on when the key is in the on position but the car is not running. The fuel pump will only prime for ~2seconds(guess) before shutting off if the car is not starting/running.
I believe I used radio shack diode 1N5400.
I believe I used radio shack diode 1N5400.
04-14-2006, 09:32 AM
#14
Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 44
Key on, engine not running, the coils should be off, and the emanage outputs should be at 0v.
I think there is a grounding issue between the emanage and the igniter transistor, inside the coils. Some of the J&S units had the problem as well, until I changed the output driver structure.
The emanage outputs are open collector transistors with 1k ohm pullups. My theory is that the emanage ground is at a slightly higher potential than the coil ground, allowing a trickle current to flow out of the pullup resistor, into the igniter transistor. Note that the trickle current is amplified by the gain of the transistor.
Use diodes with the highest forward voltage drop. In other words, the best diodes would be the worst ones.
I changed from open collector NPN's to P channel MOSFETs. This way, there is no pullup resistor to leak.
Rewiring the power is not a guaranteed fix, either, since some coils are lost with the engine running.
The igniter transistors are pulsed on and off. They pass high currents when on, heating them, then cool down when off. What happens if they are never fully off?
Most ignitions you see have heat sinks to keep the transistors cool, but the coils have no heat sink, unless the engineers hope that enough heat will go out the mounting bolt.
I think there is a grounding issue between the emanage and the igniter transistor, inside the coils. Some of the J&S units had the problem as well, until I changed the output driver structure.
The emanage outputs are open collector transistors with 1k ohm pullups. My theory is that the emanage ground is at a slightly higher potential than the coil ground, allowing a trickle current to flow out of the pullup resistor, into the igniter transistor. Note that the trickle current is amplified by the gain of the transistor.
Use diodes with the highest forward voltage drop. In other words, the best diodes would be the worst ones.
I changed from open collector NPN's to P channel MOSFETs. This way, there is no pullup resistor to leak.
Rewiring the power is not a guaranteed fix, either, since some coils are lost with the engine running.
The igniter transistors are pulsed on and off. They pass high currents when on, heating them, then cool down when off. What happens if they are never fully off?
Most ignitions you see have heat sinks to keep the transistors cool, but the coils have no heat sink, unless the engineers hope that enough heat will go out the mounting bolt.
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