Quick SC Belt question
#47
Last night I installed the 2.87" pulley on my V2 plate/blower with the gatorback 4060705. With the tensioner loosened all the way, I still had to slip this belt onto the AC pulley with 2 flat head screwdrivers. That leads me to believe it is too tight. Then, I get it going finally and the belt is angling my tensioner pulley downward and it's even causing the pulley to rub against one of the bolts behind it. How are you guys measuring deflection also? I tried the ruler method and the Haynes manual says the belt should deflect 1/4-1/2" in the area im testing in and I can press down and deflect it an 1 or 1.5". As a matter of fact its a stupi method because i can press any belt hard enough and make it deflect 2 inches if i want. SO haynes wasnt specific about pressing "firmly" with your thumb. Then Haynes has a 90 degree twist method. If you can twist the belt 90 degrees, you are fine. WHatever. I got no squealing or anything, belt even deflects an inch if i want to, but its pulling my tensioner pulley down. All of this is with the tensioner all the way on loose (but with the 14mm tensioner nut very tight). Too much stress on the tensioner pulley I think, causing it to angle instead of stay up straight. And I tightened that 14mm nut on the tensioner with all my damn strength. I'm also using a lexus metal pulley, but I believe it's the same diameter as the stock tensioner pulley because I used the same belt when it was installed. If anything, it would be smaller and this makes the belt even tighter for you stock tensioner guys. Again, I think it's the same same.
#49
I may be missing something here becasue i haven't read the entire thread, but why are you guys making this so difficult? Just use the belt # that latinmax has repeatedly posted and it is also in the stickies. As i even said i have use the gatorback belt w/ this exact size and it was perfectly tight. It was tight to get on which is what you would want.
#51
Originally Posted by ptatohed
Thanks for the info. TJ. So what Gatorback belt number was that again? 4060705? And what belt number is the next size larger?
#52
Originally Posted by chris'smax
I may be missing something here becasue i haven't read the entire thread, but why are you guys making this so difficult? Just use the belt # that latinmax has repeatedly posted and it is also in the stickies. As i even said i have use the gatorback belt w/ this exact size and it was perfectly tight. It was tight to get on which is what you would want.
The 4060705 I used is an inch and a half bigger than the belt he is talking about and I found out the 4060705 was too tight. That's what's making this so difficult.
#53
Originally Posted by slimer
I usually use the twist method.
Be wary if the tensioner is angled in any way.
Do you have rails? My ASP has rails.
You're using the lexus pulley, aren't you?
Be wary if the tensioner is angled in any way.
Do you have rails? My ASP has rails.
You're using the lexus pulley, aren't you?
#54
Originally Posted by TJ_Max
The 4060705 I used is an inch and a half bigger than the belt he is talking about and I found out the 4060705 was too tight. That's what's making this so difficult.
is the lexus pulley bigger than the plastic idler pulley?
#55
Originally Posted by chris'smax
is the lexus pulley bigger than the plastic idler pulley?
You're making me think, I might not be a good guinea pig for this. I have a metal idler pulley, and a lexus metal tensioner pulley. Maybe these are different sizes from what the kit actually comes with. .
#56
Originally Posted by chris'smax
I may be missing something here becasue i haven't read the entire thread, but why are you guys making this so difficult? Just use the belt # that latinmax has repeatedly posted and it is also in the stickies.
#57
Originally Posted by The Wizard
Read the entire thread then. You'll see how confusing and misleading all these part #'s are...in here and in the sticky links I provided.... Some questions in here have still gone un-answered too.
Well it is plainly stated in the stickies gates belt K060703 for V2 w/ 2.87 pulley. That is pretty straight forward.
As Gabriel stated the K060703 translates into a 4060690 for a gatorback belt. If i remember both of these #'s are posted on the box. Even if you didn't know this all you would have to do is go into a parts store and get them to cross reference the gates # for the gator back # and your set.
This is all assuming you are using idler, tensioner, and underdrive pulley all w/ stock diameter
#58
Originally Posted by chris'smax
Well it is plainly stated in the stickies gates belt K060703 for V2 w/ 2.87 pulley. That is pretty straight forward.
As Gabriel stated the K060703 translates into a 4060690 for a gatorback belt. If i remember both of these #'s are posted on the box. Even if you didn't know this all you would have to do is go into a parts store and get them to cross reference the gates # for the gator back # and your set.
This is all assuming you are using idler, tensioner, and underdrive pulley all w/ stock diameter
As Gabriel stated the K060703 translates into a 4060690 for a gatorback belt. If i remember both of these #'s are posted on the box. Even if you didn't know this all you would have to do is go into a parts store and get them to cross reference the gates # for the gator back # and your set.
This is all assuming you are using idler, tensioner, and underdrive pulley all w/ stock diameter
And every store I've been too here, ie Pepboys, Napa, Kragen, Autozone don't sell both belts.. it's one or the other and they can't cross reference numbers.
#59
This is just odd. I wonder if the belt that came with my 3.25 was the same size as the one in the stickies, or bigger to accomodate the bigger sized idler and tensioner pulley. I MIGHT have. I think it's the same belt from the stickies though. When I get home i'll check the number on the belt I had on my 3.25". If it is the same number as it is in the stickies than I am a legit test dummy, lol.
#60
Originally Posted by The Wizard
It is not so straight forward. What you're saying doesn't match the stickies!
And every store I've been too here, ie Pepboys, Napa, Kragen, Autozone don't sell both belts.. it's one or the other and they can't cross reference numbers.
And every store I've been too here, ie Pepboys, Napa, Kragen, Autozone don't sell both belts.. it's one or the other and they can't cross reference numbers.
Like i said i think both #'s are on the box. I just bought a belt from napa last week for my v2 w/ 2.87 pulley and i used my old gatorback # i had from my old belt to get the gates belt from napa. I used the info from the stickies to get about 5 different belts for my supercharger so i think it works.
#61
Originally Posted by LatinMax
Belt sizes for V2:
Gates (starts with K) Gator (starts with 4)
3.60 to 3.33 takes K060710 4060710
3.25 to 3.12 takes K060705 4060705
3.00 to 2.87 takes K060703 4060690
Gates (starts with K) Gator (starts with 4)
3.60 to 3.33 takes K060710 4060710
3.25 to 3.12 takes K060705 4060705
3.00 to 2.87 takes K060703 4060690
this chart gabe listed is pretty much idiot proof
#62
Gates (starts with K) Gator (starts with 4)
3.60 to 3.33 takes K060710 4060710
3.25 to 3.12 takes K060705 4060705
3.00 to 2.87 takes K060703 4060690
The question still stands.... how come the 2.87 belt number doesn't translate across? Anyone know?
If this chart is accurate, it needs to be in the stickies!
3.60 to 3.33 takes K060710 4060710
3.25 to 3.12 takes K060705 4060705
3.00 to 2.87 takes K060703 4060690
The question still stands.... how come the 2.87 belt number doesn't translate across? Anyone know?
If this chart is accurate, it needs to be in the stickies!
#63
Originally Posted by chris'smax
this chart gabe listed is pretty much idiot proof
3.60 to 3.33 takes K060710 4060710
3.25 to 3.12 takes K060705 4060705
3.00 to 2.87 takes K060703 4060690
3.60 to 3.33 takes K060710 4060710
3.25 to 3.12 takes K060705 4060705
3.00 to 2.87 takes K060703 4060690
BTW, Wizard you still want that ECU right? I'll bring it to Stillen tomorrow.
#64
Originally Posted by The Wizard
Gates (starts with K) Gator (starts with 4)
3.60 to 3.33 takes K060710 4060710
3.25 to 3.12 takes K060705 4060705
3.00 to 2.87 takes K060703 4060690
The question still stands.... how come the 2.87 belt number doesn't translate across? Anyone know?
If this chart is accurate, it needs to be in the stickies!
3.60 to 3.33 takes K060710 4060710
3.25 to 3.12 takes K060705 4060705
3.00 to 2.87 takes K060703 4060690
The question still stands.... how come the 2.87 belt number doesn't translate across? Anyone know?
If this chart is accurate, it needs to be in the stickies!
The reason for that is that Good Year does NOT make a belt in the 703 size. So you have to go to a 705 or a 690.
If you have the right sized pulleys (tensioner, idle & crank) then the 705 will be too loose and you have to go with the 690. I have done the same belt on a number of other SC setup and have had it on mine for over 2 years.
with the 690 you will get very few urns on the tensioner pulley..... but in the long run it works.
TJ_Max: Your Lexus pulley has to be the wrong size so then I would suggest you go with the 710 belt instead. Your sizes will not be the normal scale sense one (or more) pulleys are the wrong size.
I hope this clears it up for everyone.
#65
Originally Posted by LatinMax
OK to clarify..... You are right the numbers don't match, for the 2.187 pulley.
The reason for that is that Good Year does NOT make a belt in the 703 size. So you have to go to a 705 or a 690.
If you have the right sized pulleys (tensioner, idle & crank) then the 705 will be too loose and you have to go with the 690. I have done the same belt on a number of other SC setup and have had it on mine for over 2 years.
with the 690 you will get very few urns on the tensioner pulley..... but in the long run it works.
TJ_Max: Your Lexus pulley has to be the wrong size so then I would suggest you go with the 710 belt instead. Your sizes will not be the normal scale sense one (or more) pulleys are the wrong size.
I hope this clears it up for everyone.
The reason for that is that Good Year does NOT make a belt in the 703 size. So you have to go to a 705 or a 690.
If you have the right sized pulleys (tensioner, idle & crank) then the 705 will be too loose and you have to go with the 690. I have done the same belt on a number of other SC setup and have had it on mine for over 2 years.
with the 690 you will get very few urns on the tensioner pulley..... but in the long run it works.
TJ_Max: Your Lexus pulley has to be the wrong size so then I would suggest you go with the 710 belt instead. Your sizes will not be the normal scale sense one (or more) pulleys are the wrong size.
I hope this clears it up for everyone.
#67
Ok, well MY particular verdict is in. I really don't count though because, I think my pulleys are a bit bigger. Just a tad. I threw on the 4060705 and it hardly went on with the tension set all the way to loose. Then I got it on and it was angling my tensioner pulley because it was stressed. Exchanged it for a 4060715. That slipped on easily and I had to have the tensioner all the way down tight against the belt, and it deflected a little too much. But I took it out for the night, drove it kinda hard on a few stretches and cruised home. On the cruise home, heard a funny sound coming from the SC. Popped the hood and my belt shredded. I guess it was too slack. Which was perfectly fine, I drove home just on battery power. (Optima FTW). The next morning went out and got the size between the two sizes I used already (4060710). Dropped my SC for the third time this weekend in WORLD RECORD TIME 20 minutes and some seconds, lol. My friend timed me. And that belt has been running just great for me so far.
#68
Another suggestion, I hadn't thought of. Can't you guys just put the plate onto the car, have a friend hold it against the timing chain cover and you route the belt down around the pulleys?
#69
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:o)
Originally Posted by TJ_Max
Ok, well MY particular verdict is in. I really don't count though because, I think my pulleys are a bit bigger. Just a tad. I threw on the 4060705 and it hardly went on with the tension set all the way to loose. Then I got it on and it was angling my tensioner pulley because it was stressed. Exchanged it for a 4060715. That slipped on easily and I had to have the tensioner all the way down tight against the belt, and it deflected a little too much. But I took it out for the night, drove it kinda hard on a few stretches and cruised home. On the cruise home, heard a funny sound coming from the SC. Popped the hood and my belt shredded. I guess it was too slack. Which was perfectly fine, I drove home just on battery power. (Optima FTW). The next morning went out and got the size between the two sizes I used already (4060710). Dropped my SC for the third time this weekend in WORLD RECORD TIME 20 minutes and some seconds, lol. My friend timed me. And that belt has been running just great for me so far.
#70
Originally Posted by ptatohed
Well, now I couldn't be more confused. I thought "710" sounded familiar so I went home and dug through my Stillen SC box last night. Sure enough, Gates 4060710 is the belt size for the stock 3.61" pulley!!! And you are saying you are using the 710 with your 2.87" pulley??? Arrrgghh
Ok, well MY particular verdict is in. I really don't count though because, I think my pulleys are a bit bigger. Just a tad.
You are probably going to be 4060690 more than likely if you have all your stock pulleys.
#71
Originally Posted by TJ_Max
Yeah.
LOL, I have a Lexus metal tensioner pulley, and a metal idler pulley. Both are a bit bigger than the idler and tensior pulley you are using. So I was just testing more for guys with the lexus metal pulley and metal idler pulley (aftermarket, i guess).
You are probably going to be 4060690 more than likely if you have all your stock pulleys.
LOL, I have a Lexus metal tensioner pulley, and a metal idler pulley. Both are a bit bigger than the idler and tensior pulley you are using. So I was just testing more for guys with the lexus metal pulley and metal idler pulley (aftermarket, i guess).
You are probably going to be 4060690 more than likely if you have all your stock pulleys.
#72
Originally Posted by LatinMax
That is what Ihave been tryint to say. hehehe this thread is funny.
True, but you couldnt just come in here and say 4060690 and tell everyone to use them. We weren't taking into account that we all probably have some aftermarket pulley somewhere down the line that is throwing us off. I thought I used the same belts as everyone else because I assumed my aftermarket pulleys were the same diameter as the ones Stillen supply. So i'm sure people wanted to get the most up to date info as possible before they waste their 2 hours installing the wrong belt. . While I get you're trying to say "I told you so"...and to some degree you are right, I couldn't use that 4060690, for example.
#73
There are so many factors that come in to play. I never new that anyone was using anything diferent than the factory size tensioner pulley, and a idler pulley regardless of plastic or metal.
I have learned something out of this also.
My chart only works if you have factrory diameter tensioner pulley, and a idler pulley.
I have learned something out of this also.
My chart only works if you have factrory diameter tensioner pulley, and a idler pulley.
#76
LOL, it's a lose lose here if you go too big or too small. From experience. One was too tight and didn't fit, the other was too slack and shredded. And they were was a 1 inch difference. 0.5" might be okay. It depends on how tight Ewuzh says the belt is. If the belt is really tight with the tensioner set to "all the way loose" (tensior pulled up). Then i'd go with the 4060695.
#77
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Well, two nights ago I bought the belt. I went with the GatorBack 4060695 since Latin said the 4060690 was a little tight (I just hope the 95 isn't too loose!). AutoZone actually had it in stock (but the little bastard was 30 bucks!!). Last night I took the SC out. It took a few hours (one Megadeth and half an Iron Maiden CD) but most of that time was spent taking my huge 4" filter out, taking off my channel one temp. probe at the blower outlet and, of course removing the adjuster pulley and idler pulley to get to the #14 and #15 bolts. Now I can see why you shave so much time off your SC removal TJ by having bolt #14 not holding down the lower leg of the SC bracket. Another major time saver is leaving bolt #18 off. When I was transferring my SC from my '96 to my '99, I broke my stand-off bolt for hole #18 so I didn't have to deal with it this time. So, if anyone wants to make it so their SC can come in/out easily, chop off the portion of the SC bracket leg that hold bolt #14 (or leave the bolt out) and leave bolt #18 out. I forgot how much of a "finger workout" bolt #15 is!!!! Oh, and I forgot that the fuse box needs to be out of the car. I found out the hard way by undoing all the SC bracket bolts and pinning the SC between the fuse box and timing cover. So I backed bolts #5 and #7 (captive bolts) back in, squeeked the Fuse box out and undid #5 and #7 again. And bolt #17 (alternator) is a little hard, especially with my AWAC in the way, but nothing a few wobble extensions can't handle. All other bolts (#'s 1,2,3,9,16) are cake. I will definitely try to put everything back together with just one or two bolts tightened first to see if the belt is the right size before I use threadlocker and tighten averything for good.
Not looking forward to shaving down my leg further for the 2.87". I wonder if I should just chop it off. TJ, did you chop your leg for clearance for your 2.87"? Also, do you guys use the thread locker everytime you put your SC back in the car?
I'll try to finish tonight or this weekend and I'll let you guys know how the 4060695 works out.
Not looking forward to shaving down my leg further for the 2.87". I wonder if I should just chop it off. TJ, did you chop your leg for clearance for your 2.87"? Also, do you guys use the thread locker everytime you put your SC back in the car?
I'll try to finish tonight or this weekend and I'll let you guys know how the 4060695 works out.
#78
That pic was super duper small, can't see any numbers, but I know exactly what you are talking about. I don't have bolt 18 in either. And yes, that leg on my plate was completely grinded down. The person before me was going 2.62" before he sold it to me so he had a shop do it. I didn't use any thread locker, I used anti seize on the SC to plate allen bolts, actually. For the others, they didn't really have anything on them, so I just put them in and torqued em down good. My fuse box wasn't touched when I pulled my SC out either. I took the power steering reservoir off it's bracket to move out of the way a little bit, but didn't disconnect any hoses. Either way a CD and a half wasn't too bad a time. It's a lot compared to my tracks 1-4 on the sesame street CDs I play when working on cars, lmao, j/k.
#79
Originally Posted by ptatohed
Well, two nights ago I bought the belt. I went with the GatorBack 4060695 since Latin said the 4060690 was a little tight (I just hope the 95 isn't too loose!). AutoZone actually had it in stock (but the little bastard was 30 bucks!!). Last night I took the SC out. It took a few hours (one Megadeth and half an Iron Maiden CD) but most of that time was spent taking my huge 4" filter out, taking off my channel one temp. probe at the blower outlet and, of course removing the adjuster pulley and idler pulley to get to the #14 and #15 bolts. Now I can see why you shave so much time off your SC removal TJ by having bolt #14 not holding down the lower leg of the SC bracket. Another major time saver is leaving bolt #18 off. When I was transferring my SC from my '96 to my '99, I broke my stand-off bolt for hole #18 so I didn't have to deal with it this time. So, if anyone wants to make it so their SC can come in/out easily, chop off the portion of the SC bracket leg that hold bolt #14 (or leave the bolt out) and leave bolt #18 out. I forgot how much of a "finger workout" bolt #15 is!!!! Oh, and I forgot that the fuse box needs to be out of the car. I found out the hard way by undoing all the SC bracket bolts and pinning the SC between the fuse box and timing cover. So I backed bolts #5 and #7 (captive bolts) back in, squeeked the Fuse box out and undid #5 and #7 again. And bolt #17 (alternator) is a little hard, especially with my AWAC in the way, but nothing a few wobble extensions can't handle. All other bolts (#'s 1,2,3,9,16) are cake. I will definitely try to put everything back together with just one or two bolts tightened first to see if the belt is the right size before I use threadlocker and tighten averything for good.
Not looking forward to shaving down my leg further for the 2.87". I wonder if I should just chop it off. TJ, did you chop your leg for clearance for your 2.87"? Also, do you guys use the thread locker everytime you put your SC back in the car?
I'll try to finish tonight or this weekend and I'll let you guys know how the 4060695 works out.
Not looking forward to shaving down my leg further for the 2.87". I wonder if I should just chop it off. TJ, did you chop your leg for clearance for your 2.87"? Also, do you guys use the thread locker everytime you put your SC back in the car?
I'll try to finish tonight or this weekend and I'll let you guys know how the 4060695 works out.