Alright Ive been screwing around with the emanage a bit every few days, havent had much time for it. well I got out there alittle today and Im really getting fed up. I have the I/J adjustment map up with all 0's and the A/F target map up with all a/f setting that I manually put in. Nothing is happening to my a/f at all....Every time I drive it it, its going really lean and I have to back up really early, like 2600 rpms. I cant figure out how to get anything working on this thing. I started messing with the scaling a bit, Im running 370's and Z32 MAF and i put in 240, 290 and it seems to sit right at 14.7 at idle but kinda lean at startup and even cruizing. It goes to 16.7-17.00 while cruizing with ever so slight pedal.

I also noticed that when i wired in my WB and selected a wb with a 10-20 range, Im using a LC-1, and I go to the datalogging section, Its reading richer than the reading Im getting on my XD-1 Gauge mounted on my dash. Im talking the Xd-1 is reading 14.7 lets say, and the computer reading is 10.8-11.3. Really weird.

I wanna tune and log some things and start getting this driveable, but it wont even let me drive and rev up the car AT ALL....Im really getting fed up

I read the manual and they are really broad with their explination in the book. They never really tell you what to input in.

-matt

 

I don't think you want to scale your injectors. I could be wrong but i think that since you are running the z32 maf you don't have to scale the injectors since the maf has a diff voltage curve than the a32. Also which maf setting are you using(maxima or z32)? I think you should set it for the z32 maf.

Also the emanage will not make any adjustments in closed loop so it should not affect your afr at partial throttle. Did you adjust you base fuel pressure?

 

Base FP is at about 32-34. I was told thats ok.

I need to scale my injectors because right now, if I stay at 0 on both sides of the scaling part, the car will run alright, but wont really start and runs PIG rich at idle...im talking 10.8ish

I seriously cant even drive the car cause I try and get any type or RPM going, and the A/F goes super rich, and I am forced to let off by about 3000 rpms. The car hesitates and all types of fun stuff.

As for the Z32 MAF, Im not sure what one it is on the list that I need to Select !!! That might be problem right there. It wont let me select the VQ30-DETT Airflow meter if Im under the VQ30-DET Engine code, a problem that dandy is aware of, since the DETT airflow meter is different from the DET Airflow and Greddy isnt awair.

I cant even drive the car !!!

-matt

 

it should be in the manual. I think they have a list at the back of the manual listing the maf codes for diff types of jdm cars. If it is back there just look at the code for the Fairlady z.

 

Alright i just got back from taking the car out.

Setting on 0 0 for scaling the a/f stays at about 10.8 then a few minutes creeps up to 14.7....still driving is lean.....and after driving a bit, stopping at a light the idle does the same thing....10.8 to 14.7

If I have the setting on 240 270-285 the car idles at 14.7-14.9 perfect, then i turn the a/c on and it shoots to 15.9-16.4 and stays there.....why is this soooo screwy....

I was watching the log chart with the a/f listed and it doesnt even move when im driving....but my guage is going wacko

-matt

 

Will it help if you get a Map sensor w/ Harness and completely eliminate the maf all at once? Just a thing to by-pass the Maf and tune precisely from MAP sensor units.

Sorry to jack your thread, but it's a legit suggestion, and I have just purchased an EU with the MAP sensor and harness. So when I get mine set up, I'll let you in on it. But my S/C won't be ready till late August.

This is my finalized setup:

Matty's fuller starter kit
V2 SQ-trim Blower
Greddy Emanage Ultimate w/MAP
PLX M-300 Wideband
Cold air intake w/K&N filter
Vortech BOV
Walboro Fuel Pump + FPR
555 Injectors

 

Yea I looked...

Model.......Chassis Code...Engine Code.....Sensor Type
300ZX......Z32..............VG30GETT.........NS_HW-2
..................................VG30DET

NS_HW-2 is what I have it set on now. In reality, I believe the DETT has a different sensor. So really, there is nothing in that list for a Z32 MAF.

Isnt the Z32 MAF Sensor the same for the SR20DET ??? That would be entered as the NS_HW-7


In essence, the I/J Adj Map 1 should fill in with the A/F Target Map in use. Its not filling in. What am I doing wrong ??

-matt

 

Remember how I was telling you might have to help it out by entering numbers in the I/J map? Log some runs and then enter numbers in the I/J map and try to get the AF where you want it...

 

Matty we need to go over your settings because it doesn't sound like everything's set up right if you're having this many problems. The scaling worked ok for me a couple nights ago although I do have a starting issue right now. What are your dip switches set to? Email me your em2 file please so I can take a look. Also please save a datalog of you idling and driving etc so I can see what things are doing. It will be really hard to help without seeing those 2 files, as there could be several variables at play and I can't see your car or installation either. BTW If you change the engine type to VG30 for the MAF I'm not sure if you'll be able to use the crank signal then for the VQ30.

And I replied to your PM with more details on things, especially regarding the WB. Looking through the LC-1 manual I have a guess as to what your problem is, but it's not likely the EU.

 

Dandy the EU says the VQ30 and the VG30 have the same MAF....

 

I know... there are several inconsistencies like that. But that's just the text strings you're seeing, I'd have to look at the hex code in the software to see if they really were the same. But I was talking about the crank signal difference.

 

I don't believe the MAF conversions really work or at least that well. It is best to leave that alone until someone proves it.

Leave the A/F tuning alone. It is only for open-loop once the water temp is above what you set it at. Do you have the water temp signal tapped? IMO, it is best to only use this feature once you have everything running decent and rich. Then you let the Autotune pull some fuel although, I'd rather do it myself based off logs and doing repeated runs. In short, turn it off for now.

Your LC1 is non-linear IIRC, so what the EU logs will be somewhat off, but not sure that much. Just something to keep in mind.

Double check ALL your jumper settings...at least one person, Sharif I think, had JP18 not set to open from the factory.

Try setting the Injector Scaling to zeros and then just pull fuel at the 2000rpm and under areas of the I/J Add map until you get the startup/idle figured out.

 

Im still haveing trouble getting my WB to read properly. Cant seem to get it.

Should Jumper JP15 be 2-3 or factory 1-2 ?? I checked them all and they're all set properly.

-matt

 

1-2

Not sure about the LC-1, but make sure you have the grounds how the Innovative manual recommends.

 

I found it doesn't seem to matter whether JP15 is 1-2 for normal or 2-3 for coil if you're using ignition inputs.

As for the wideband stuff.... I already asked him about the grounds and he said they are correct. But as for linear/non-linear... the following is directly quoted from the LC-1 manual:

"The LC-1's analog output 2 is factory programmed to provide a linear output between 1V and 2V for an AFR of 7.35 to 22.39, allowing a digital voltmeter to be used as the AFR display. Any other linear output range between 0 and 5V can be programmed."

 

Im using output 1. and it sais in the manual it doesnt matter becuase the sensor can be programmed to anything along the lines. Ive tried many different setting in the EU and in the LC-1 and cant get it read right.

Dandy,

I hear you saying that is shouldnt be SARD sensor, but there isnt a "custom" sensor option or "other"...you have to pick from the list

-matt

 

On mine it says "other"..

OHHH.. I forgot maybe that's something new in the update

Can you just leave it blank then? ...it may not matter though if it's a SARD, it was just something to try.

Any word on the LC-1 from Sharif?

 

The only thing he can think of is the firmware. Another things thats weird is the Greddy pressure sensor is reading way off. Im reading -20 on my boost gauge and only -10.5 on my logs. And if I map trace on the i/j map, the trace only goes to -10.5 and not all the way down to -14.5 ??

-matt

 

Did you program the LC-1 and XD-1 to use 0V=10:1 and 5V=20:1 like you set the eManage to display?

As far as the Greddy pressure sensor, play with the Absolute/Relative Pressure under the "Unit" drop down to see if that helps.

 

I programmed the Guage to 10 and 20 and 7.35 and 22.39, respective with the EU and no luck

-matt

 

What about the LC-1 output1 and output2?

 

You should ask Brandon, since he's got his to work with the LM-1. Scroll down to the bottom...
http://www.transonicracinginnovation...opic.php?t=281

 

Ok well I figured out my WB problem but its still reading a bit off. On the Xd-1 gauge its always ONE lower than the readout on the computer ?? (14.7 on the XD-1, 15.7 on the Laptop) kinda weird. Im only changing the Analog Out 1 on the Programmer not the Analog Out 2, since im using the Analog One.

**edit** I figured it out. I had the LC-1 Programmed to (1v - 5v) should be 0v - 5v....Now its reading perfect**

I changed the settings in the i/j map to Duration and the car stalled out completely. I guess the duty cycle settings are completly non-compatible to the Duration settings. What do the duration settings go from ?? I know duty cycle is -80 to 100+. I cleared out the entire map and started putting in new settings for the Duration setttings.

Sharrif on the 350z site, told me that the -10.5 reading from the pressure sensor is not wrong considering I have it on PSI. I change it to mmhg and it completly changes my settings on the map, side settings change to hundred numbers, not small. The pressure sensor is tapped on the same line as the boost gauge

Another weird thing the car is doing is if Im at idle, the a/f changes significantly with pumping the gas, afr shoots to 20:1 ?????????? and if I put on the a/c, the afr shoots to 16:1 and holds there. What is wrong with my car ???

Im wondering if its a MAF issue since maybe the computer thinks im using the A32 MAF. Im wondering if the RB20DET would be better to have imputed since thats the Z32 MAF.

Im losing faith in this thing day by day. I have gotten no-where since I installed this thing.

-matt

 

Haha...you blamed the EU when it was your WB and your Greddy pressure gauge was correct. You're using the Autotune when you didn't even read the manual well enough to know not to program the entire table and especially leave the take over point TPS at 10%, so the ECU closed loop and the EU autotune are fighting.

You don't know what you're doing and you're learning, no shame in that, but you're trying to blame the EU when it IS YOU.

Rip it out and sell it Matt, you knew from the beginning this wasn't Plug-N-Play, but definitely isn't as hard as you're making out to be. You did the hardest part and that was wiring everything correctly. That's impressive to most. Now you can't find EXACT answers in the manual because this thing was made UNIVERSAL. Yes, some things are flaky, but changing the injectors, Z32 MAF, and tossing in the EU all at the same time is not going to magically happen. I'm going to start calling you chris's max Jr.

 

I guess I deserved that

Bare with me though, Im new to all of this.

-matt

 

Leave the VQ30DET setting...it works. The EU doesn't care what MAF you have except to know approximately the max voltage. There are no preprogrammed voltage curves, I'd bet. I'm guessing more, but when you switch MAFs, it is just going to scale the injection output. Since we know the 370cc, Z32 MAF, and A32 ECU are pretty close to stock AFR, you shouldn't have to worry about scaling back the injectors across the entire RPM range. Instead, you need to slowly build up in RPM while monitoring your WB and dialing in fuel. IMO, you need to set the I/J Add map to just add fuel in boost, ie just change your X-axis to read the Greddy boost sensor. Then you just add a bunch of fuel, so you know you're rich and using the WB or if you know how, the Autotune to pull the extra fuel.

As far as what the AFR is at idle, don't worry about it once the car is warmed up your stock ECU will compensate. As long as the car starts and idles, you're good. Stop worrying about vacuum this, idle AFR that. Worry about AFR under boost.

As for the I/J Add map, you can use duration or duty cycle, it doesn't matter much except you need to realize that the final injection output will vary with RPM, ie decrese pulsewidth, if you use duty cycle. No biggie as long as you know that and use your WB02 to compensate in the map. It will be a problem when you try and use DC on the RLC map though. You can input all Duty Cycle and then switch to duration, you'll see the IPW values decrease as RPM goes up. That's fine if you're NA because VE typically falls, but with the SC's linear/direct boost, you'll probably need to keep adding.

If you can get this thing running on the street and do some logging, I can help you build an I/J Add map.

 

Not at all, I will.

Once you try all the crap Dandy and I throw at you, and if still nothing works, you are going to have to start bypassing things to see what is the problem. This gets pretty scary though, so we need to make absolutely sure this isn't a simple configuration or user problem.

 

Ignoring AFR, does the car cold start, idle high like normal(1300rpm or so), and then drop down to warm idle RPM(650-700rpm)?

 

We had a conversation last night via AIM, I think now that he's got the pressure sensor and WB figured out, things will be better. I think his EU is working properly. I also wouldn't bother with the MAF just use the INJ map and use duration (not DC) like I mentioned Matty. It's just easier to do that across all the maps IMO.

We also discussed a bit more about programming the INJ map (similar to what you said) so hopefully he can start to build it.

 

Yes it idles ok. Starts out high at about 1300 and drops down to about 650-700. I was talking to Dandy about all of this last night for about an hour on AIM and he said with all the corrections im making with fuel im not allowing the ECU to learn the fuel trims. Once I get a good safe tune and able to drive it, the afr will not change, say when i turn the a/c on beacuse it will know the load from the a/c. Dandy said the Fuel trims are out of wack as of now, but I need to start driving it and working with the Duration settings on the I/J map.

We also found out that the -10.5 reading from the Greddy Pressure sensor is right since its in PSI. In HG, it would convert to -21.6 of something like that. In mmhg unit setting in the EU, that number shoots skiy high but its all relative since 0 is always zero. Ill leave it at PSI

The problem I had during the day yesterday was when I changed from my DC setting on my map to Duration, I didnt zero out the map so all of the readings converted in the map and wound up being really high and completly shut the car off when I communicated with the EU cause of being sooo rich.

I Zeroed out the I/J adj map and started all over. Im not scaling the Injectors at all as of now, im just working with the I/J map.

You guys are great. Without this support, the EU would be ripped out..lol. I am learning though.

-matt

 

What is "the computer"? EU or LogWorks?

If Analog Out 1 is going to the XD-1, you need to program Analog Out 2 for the EU input, right?

 

Also, looking at the LC-1 documentation, you need to wire your Analog ground and System ground EXACTLY like they show on Page 6.

 

Then you're ready to tune, just start out super rich.

Sounds good, Jeremeys' 5G was around -9.8PSI.

Awesome...with the 370cc, Z32 MAF, A32 ECU you should be a little lean IIRC, so you just need to start adding fuel.

Dandy has the patience to do the trouble-shooting stuff, I don't really. However, please send me your WOT logs. I'm interested in how people are tuning under boost and love to analyze EU logs to pass time at work.

 

Seems like its still a bit rich at idle. I will be taking away some at idle.

As for the WB. The XD-1 guage isnt an analog out. There are two analog outs. Im using Analog One for the emanage. Analog two is still unwired so it doesnt need to programmed to anything.

-matt

 

Very interesting , guys

Off-topic : just to make sure : the pressure sensor , is it for the Psi of the sc ? like if your Na you dont need it ?

 

Once it is warm, what AFR do you see? Once warm, the stock ECU will target 14-15:1, Jeremys' logs showed 16.5:1 down to 15:1, so you don't need to change anything below 1000rpm unless your cold starts are super rich or you're way off.

So, the EU log, Logworks, and the XD-1 all match, correct?

 

With no corrections on the map, the afr is pretty rich. I would have to go out and run it all zeros to see what it actually is. I think close to 11 or 12:1 while warming up and Im not sure what it is once warmed. During warm up its super rich and thats why I thought you pull fuel so its not that rich while warming.

Im currently not monitoring Logworks, cant seem to get Logworks to work. But the XD-1 guage does match with the EU log. I had the Volts Mismatched

 

I'm not sure what stock warm up(closed loop + coldstart enrichment) AFR is, but I wouldn't worry about it unless it was fouling plugs or stalling. Once warm, the stock ECU will correct the AFR no matter what the EU does given enough time. You just want to make it as close as possible for the stock ECU.

Perfect....are you going to program the XD-1 warning feature? That is the ONLY reason I'm debating between the LC-1 and PLXM250.

 

Beautiful. I'm glad you got it working. When we talked on Wednesday it seemed like it was a voltage issue. Thats why I asked you about the ign signal.