Need more emanage help
06-28-2006, 06:30 PM
#1
Need more emanage help
OK, I'm running the Emanage Blue, with a 300zx MAF, 370 injectors, Walbro 255 fuel pump, Stillen FPR at 36psi at idle, and 44psi WOT.
Boosting 8psi
I just boosted my '95 a little while ago and setup my emanage after a week or so of tuning. It was running rich, but I was also tuning off of the airflow adjustment map. Well I learned the hard way that the airflow adjustment map also adjusts the timing. My engine started some bottom end knock and puffing a little bit of oil.
So I did an engine swap to a low milage '98. After doing the engine swap, I left it N/A for a week to break in my new clutch and make sure everything was running good.
I put the turbo kit back on a couple weeks ago and have have been trying to tune it again since. Well the car is idling around 13.5, but as I drive, anytime it's in vacuum it runs between 14-15.
When I hit boost, it stays at 13-13.5 and after a few seconds, it goes back to 14-15. If I go to WOT, it will go down to about 11-12, but again, after about 2-3 seconds, it goes right back up to 14-15.
I've double and triple checked my wiring and I can't find any problems.
My problem is there is no one around here that knows emanage, no one that knows Maximas and no one that is willing to give me a hand with getting this working.
Here's my setup from my emanage.
If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know. I'm at a loss and tired of my car being parked because I can't tune it.
Boosting 8psi
I just boosted my '95 a little while ago and setup my emanage after a week or so of tuning. It was running rich, but I was also tuning off of the airflow adjustment map. Well I learned the hard way that the airflow adjustment map also adjusts the timing. My engine started some bottom end knock and puffing a little bit of oil.
So I did an engine swap to a low milage '98. After doing the engine swap, I left it N/A for a week to break in my new clutch and make sure everything was running good.
I put the turbo kit back on a couple weeks ago and have have been trying to tune it again since. Well the car is idling around 13.5, but as I drive, anytime it's in vacuum it runs between 14-15.
When I hit boost, it stays at 13-13.5 and after a few seconds, it goes back to 14-15. If I go to WOT, it will go down to about 11-12, but again, after about 2-3 seconds, it goes right back up to 14-15.
I've double and triple checked my wiring and I can't find any problems.
My problem is there is no one around here that knows emanage, no one that knows Maximas and no one that is willing to give me a hand with getting this working.
Here's my setup from my emanage.
If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know. I'm at a loss and tired of my car being parked because I can't tune it.
06-28-2006, 08:18 PM
#3
Why are you running less additional injection the higher boost you run and the higher the RPMs get? Higher boost and higher rpm means more fuel required.
Also, and this doesn't have anything to do with the air fuel problem you're running into, but you're pulling way too much timing. That's going to kill your power and response. There are guys running up to 10psi on stock ignition timing, though I think that is really pushing it on 93 octane. Persnally I start pulling ignition timing around 8psi and pull 1 degree per psi up til 5000rpm and then add back a degree per 1000rpm til redline (which means I only add back one degree, since redline is 6600 and you can't add or subtract half a degree.)
Oh also, what sort of boost pressures are you actually running?
Also, and this doesn't have anything to do with the air fuel problem you're running into, but you're pulling way too much timing. That's going to kill your power and response. There are guys running up to 10psi on stock ignition timing, though I think that is really pushing it on 93 octane. Persnally I start pulling ignition timing around 8psi and pull 1 degree per psi up til 5000rpm and then add back a degree per 1000rpm til redline (which means I only add back one degree, since redline is 6600 and you can't add or subtract half a degree.)
Oh also, what sort of boost pressures are you actually running?
06-29-2006, 05:00 AM
#4
Sorry, running the Walbro 255 fuel pump. Tried 2 different gauges, one off the FPR, the other off the actual fuel line, both are reading the same.
The reason I was running less add. inj. was because when I would hit boost at lower rpm, my AFR would drop around the 13 range, but if I hit boost at higher rpm, it would drop to about 9-10, so I dropped the add. inj. so it would be around 11-12. I've tried changing it up as far as 50%, but all it does is run very rich for a few seconds and then run lean again.
As for the timing, I was getting detonation (probably from running lean) so I've heard the average rule was to retard 1 degree of timing for each psi of boost. I figured it cant' hurt since it was running lean to begin with.
I'm running 8psi.
The reason I was running less add. inj. was because when I would hit boost at lower rpm, my AFR would drop around the 13 range, but if I hit boost at higher rpm, it would drop to about 9-10, so I dropped the add. inj. so it would be around 11-12. I've tried changing it up as far as 50%, but all it does is run very rich for a few seconds and then run lean again.
As for the timing, I was getting detonation (probably from running lean) so I've heard the average rule was to retard 1 degree of timing for each psi of boost. I figured it cant' hurt since it was running lean to begin with.
I'm running 8psi.
06-29-2006, 10:09 AM
#7
You can test it with a vaccum pump on the FPR.
Just because you have fuel at idle doesn't mean it holds under WOT and especially under boost. Several people have had Walbros go bad on them.
Also, pinch the return line and see what the pressure max you see and see if the fuel pressure holds 34psi once you shut off the car for say 5mins. or so.
Just because you have fuel at idle doesn't mean it holds under WOT and especially under boost. Several people have had Walbros go bad on them.
Also, pinch the return line and see what the pressure max you see and see if the fuel pressure holds 34psi once you shut off the car for say 5mins. or so.
06-29-2006, 06:50 PM
#10
You've gotta get some datalogging done, showing at least these parameters: RPM, boost, AFR. What you are describing is making it really hard to pinpoint the problem.
what wideband are you using?
you might just be running out of fuel injector capacity if it is going lean at the same RPM every time and you've tried adding fuel. Emanage can only add fuel up to a certain point, regardless of what the cell reads. If your IDC is 100% at a given RPM, it doesn't matter how much more you add on the add inj map, the fuel injector just can't stay open any longer.
what wideband are you using?
you might just be running out of fuel injector capacity if it is going lean at the same RPM every time and you've tried adding fuel. Emanage can only add fuel up to a certain point, regardless of what the cell reads. If your IDC is 100% at a given RPM, it doesn't matter how much more you add on the add inj map, the fuel injector just can't stay open any longer.
07-04-2006, 06:35 AM
#11
OK, so here's an update.
I was sitting down with a few friends talking about the problem and I got thinking...what is the only thing I changed in relation to the fuel system when I did the engine swap. The fuel pressure regulator. So I was thinking maybe I hooked it up wrong. So I swapped the fuel lines and tried it. It barely started and was running way too lean. so obviously I did hook it up right the first time. I changed them back and was checking my fuel pressure with the car running, without the car running, under throttle, without the vaccum line on it etc. Everything seemed fine, so I took it out to check my fuel pressure under boost. Under boost its around 46-48psi and it holds it. Well when I was testing it, I was watching my AFR. It was hitting 10-10.5 and holding. it never did that before. So I changed all my maps to 0 to try tuning it from scratch again. I'm only running between 3% and 7% add inj. and now I'm hitting 12.8-13.2 around 1psi of boost. and beyond that its around 11.8-12.4 the rest of the way to 8psi of boost.
I'm not sure what was going on before, but I think it had something to do with my FPR. So its running good now, but I'm keeping an eye on my AFR to see if there are any changes.
Thanks for your suggestions guys. I'm going to work at changing the timing maps and fine tuning the add inj maps a bit more.
When I get some $ saved up, I'm going to get the car dyno tuned. So I'll post my results when I get it done.
I was sitting down with a few friends talking about the problem and I got thinking...what is the only thing I changed in relation to the fuel system when I did the engine swap. The fuel pressure regulator. So I was thinking maybe I hooked it up wrong. So I swapped the fuel lines and tried it. It barely started and was running way too lean. so obviously I did hook it up right the first time. I changed them back and was checking my fuel pressure with the car running, without the car running, under throttle, without the vaccum line on it etc. Everything seemed fine, so I took it out to check my fuel pressure under boost. Under boost its around 46-48psi and it holds it. Well when I was testing it, I was watching my AFR. It was hitting 10-10.5 and holding. it never did that before. So I changed all my maps to 0 to try tuning it from scratch again. I'm only running between 3% and 7% add inj. and now I'm hitting 12.8-13.2 around 1psi of boost. and beyond that its around 11.8-12.4 the rest of the way to 8psi of boost.
I'm not sure what was going on before, but I think it had something to do with my FPR. So its running good now, but I'm keeping an eye on my AFR to see if there are any changes.
Thanks for your suggestions guys. I'm going to work at changing the timing maps and fine tuning the add inj maps a bit more.
When I get some $ saved up, I'm going to get the car dyno tuned. So I'll post my results when I get it done.
07-04-2006, 06:46 AM
#12
cool glad you got it figured out, maybe just a bad connection on one of the lines to the fpr or something, kink in the line or something like that.
Anyways richen that thing up to low 11s high 10s and add your timing back and you'll get a real kick in the pants.
Anyways richen that thing up to low 11s high 10s and add your timing back and you'll get a real kick in the pants.
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