Well i got the eu all wired up and went cut the ignition on to start setting it up and noticed smoke coming from under the hood. Well I hit the breaker at the battery quick and seen my coils melted. I checked to verify all my jumper setting and and double checked my ignition wire and all were right! What eles could I check?

 

damn man...check your ignition chip on the eu...

 

yeah that was the first thing i checked but its right in the 5v position

 

also im hearing a loud expolding noise when I cut the key off. but not everytime. and I cut the ignition on and the coils are still smoking!

 

you have cel's? check on the codes....it probably says random misfire p0300???

 

What software is loaded into your EU ?? Are you using the latest V2.0 ?? Go to the help pulldown and it will tell you the latest version loaded in.
Sounds to me like its a software issue or a settings issue on your parameter settings.


-matt

 

ok i got the 2.0 version. Ive rechecked the jumper setting and they are all correct. So im wondering what eles I could check. Jime said he has the resister in his and never had has coil trouble. but yet dandyMax does not have them with no coil trouble. Im wondering if it maybe a grounding problem. IVE looked on some other forums about the coil packs frying, and they said grounding was an issue. I have relocated the battery to the trunk and have it only grounded to the rear strut. ANyone eles that has an eu in a 4th gen feel free to chime in!

 

Check your two main grounds on your EU. Injector ground and your ECU ground. They should be to seperate grounds.

 

ok i did use a ground that i used previously for the neon hook and also ground the injectors to the same ground. which I think is the injector ground. So should I take the ground for the eu and go to the ecu ground or will the injector ground be fine.

 

I have mine going to seperate grounds totally, just tapped.

-matt

 

you have eu? Have you every fryed any coils.

 

Ive had it completely wired up, fully functional, reading intake temp, water temp, wired to my WB and a Greddy pressure sensor.

Ive never had a coil burning issue and I never heard of anyone having that problem. Ive heard with the Emange Blue and guys had to add diods to each coil, but greddy came out with software to fix that problem. Were talking years back

-matt

 

ok Update I found a peice of the circuit board chip(no I know its not a jumper) floating around in the case it must have been loose maybe but it attached from the boeard now. Im not sure if It got loose in shipping or the guy before me broke it. My eu was listed as new but the box was open and he said he bought it 8 months ago. I dont think I hit the board to break it loose myself as I was really careful. Do you think thats why they would be frying?

 

That may not be sufficient enough to explain why your ignitions are frying up. I installed EU and ran fine for couple of minutes, then shut the car off for the weekend. When I came back to drive the car, it wouldn't start. I later tried to diagnose the problems, and I ended up with fried ignition coils. All 6-packs bled silicon goos out of what appeared to be heat busted wounds.

I later consulted a few guys from other car forums on convenience. I was told that we cannot leave the key in the on position for too long without the car running. It'll fry the ignition coils that way. That's the latest I've got from doing the EU. I then took the EU out, replaced the ignition coils. Now the car runs fine again on stock ECU and JWT ECU. I'm so busy I dont' have time to deal with EU right now. Hence, if you can find something else, please let me know.

-Peter-

 

ok I found this and it seems to be the chip that is floating around in mu eu loot at this link:

http://mohdparts.com/emanage/emu_mis...hip/index.html

Ok dandy max is also looking up something on the grounding of the coils. I used a differant ecu ground and ground the injector ground to the same. SO maybe depending on the coils on how the ecu fires them being GROUND or postive pulse. In thery maybe the eu is sending ground to them constantly and that why they are melting.because of using the wrong ground on ECU The coils are not designed to work like that. They should shut off and on when firing. Any one eles wana chime in on this.

 

emanage blue and gold both use open collector NPN output transistors with 1k ohm pullup.

During dwell, the emanage output transistor turns off, and the pullup resistor sources current to the base of the coil's ignition transistor.

To make the spark, the emanage output transistor turns on, pulling its output to ground (hopefully), which turns off the ignition transistor (same as points opening).

J&S also used open collector outputs until we started losing coils on the 350z.

I spent several hours in the garage looking for the problem on Gurgen's 350z. Never could see a reason to burn a coil, but I decided to change the output drivers anyway.

Since I switched to open drain P channel MOSFETs for the output drivers, we haven't lost a coil.

Bad grounds have no effect in this scheme. The P channel only sources current during dwell time, then shuts off (opens).

In the NPN scheme, the pullup resistor can leak current into the coil transistor if the emanage ground is slightly higher than the coil ground.

 

Hey thanks for the info john. but can you break that down for me!

 

Good basic description of transistors (scroll to the bottom for diagram of open collector NPN):

http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/trancirc.htm

In the diagram, note that the emanage is connected to the junction of the pullup resistor (Rc), and the transistor.

If the emanage ground (0v) is higher than the coil ground, then some current will flow into the transistor inside the coil.

Also, the transistor is not a perfect switch, so its collector never actually gets all the way to ground.

When looking at Gurgen's car, I couldn't see a reason to for the coils to blow. The coil signal "seemed" like it was going low enough.

My solution was a P channel driver. See the topic "Choosing a suitable PNP transistor", near the bottom of the page.

Note that the pullup resistor is replaced by the PNP, which is switched on and off, so no current can leak into the load resistor (or coil pack).

So, basically, you are screwed unless you want to hack the emanage. Greddy chose the wrong output structure.

To hack, you will need a hex inverter chip (74HC04), six resistors, and six PNP's.

 

When the Motec was put in my 350z and they were tweeking things, it also fried 2 coils with the ignition switch on. They needed to set the motec so it did not send current to the coils till the engine was turned over. They figured that the stock ecu has some provision in it that does this same thing.

 

I thought that could be a problem, so I designed the unit to turn off all outputs during stall (key on, engine not running).

That wasn't where we were losing coils, though. Never could actually see a problem, but they stoped blowing after we switched drivers.

 

ok I rechecked all my wires and connections. All are made right. So I cut car back on with the EU to see how long it would take for coils to get hot! The front coils do not get near as hot as the back ones. The back ones get hot quick. I change and seperarted the injector ground and the main EU ground well that did not seem to change anything.

 

Do you have a digital voltmeter? I would like to know the emanage output voltage for each ignition channel (key on, engine not running).

Connect the black lead of the voltmeter to the engine, preferrably where the coils are grounded. I think this is on the front cover of the engine.

Pin 2 of the coil connector should be ground. If the emanage outputs are higher than pin 2 of each coil, then you have a problem.

 

ok the voltage coming out of the ec is .2 but remember the ignition is broke off so it may not read right getting it replace in the morning. Ok at the coil connector I put the multi meter on the red wire the 1 wire and ground the other lead on muti meter to the valve cover and got a reading of 23.2 volts.

 

can anyone tell me how they hooked up the firing order on the eu with the coils? Im also having problems gettting the eu to communticate with the lab top. It will not reconize the eu being hook up. What type of USB cable do you use that will work. I called greddy and they say it has to be a 1.1 USB. Well I have a 2.0 that is suppose to be 1.0 to 2.0 compadable.

 

My laptop is USB 2.0 and I have no problems with the EU.

Did you install the EU USB driver?

http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/pc/...usb_driver.zip

 

Try a different laptop, maybe a friends. Or uninstall the software and re-install it into the laptop and try again.

Laptop on with the software up, car in the ACC position, plug in the USB cable. Your computer should make a noise that you hooked up the USB, then ask you if you wanna communicate with the emanage in "real time". Click yes and start the car. <<<<<DO NOT PLUG IN THE USB WHILE THE CAR IS RUNNING>>>>

-matt

 

ok ill try that the car has not run since the install due to fryed coils

 

Yes to echo what Matty said, always have everything connected before you power ON. Check the Greddy installation manual, it will list the minimum laptop specifications you'll need. If the laptop meets them, then try uninstalling & reinstalling the software & USB driver, or check your USB connection in the Windows Device Manager to see if the drivers are installed correctly.

From your post on the other thread it sounds to me like the coil melting was related to the ignition chip fault. I haven't heard of anyone melting coils with a working chip, so hopefully that problem is behind you, although it's unfortunate it happened.

BTW, sorry for not being available to take a call last night, I was at the pool for 5 hours learning to scuba dive.. kind of hard to answer the phone underwater... haha

 

Ok I just got home from the junk yard. I found some new 01 coils ($125)so ill try to put those in to see if it will crank now. SO hopefully that wont happen again.
Ok on the lab top I did try to uninstall the soft ware and try to reinstall it to see if it would work but it did not with the driver too.
But im going to call tech surrport of my lab top to see if they can help.
ANYONE know what the injector lag time is for the de injectors and the dek injectors

 

No need to scale for DE to DEK injectors.

 

Correct. No scaling or lagging needed. The difference in size is small enough...

 

ok went and pluged up the cable and went to device manager and got the driver to install and got online with the lab top . I manually installed like greddy told me but it did not but got it now. Just put new coils in and about to try to crank it again. Is their anything i need to do beside load the vehicle parranmter?

 

Go to the TPS Screen on the emanage with the laptop plugged in and set the TPS values with your foot. Fully open and WOT. Then your ready to crank. Good Luck

-matt

 

well My emanage is garbrage. I got it up and running got the car cranked and it skips. I narrowed it down to cylinder 3. I took the coil pack and changed it for a know good one and it still skiped. I then took the coil out and put a brand new plug in the end of it and ground it and no spark. So I went to test the out put at the eu and got nothing really. Then heard something from the hood it was the coil throwing fire but it was not consitent fire. So i put it back on and the car runs ok but still missing some. Well I pick up the eu and it skips worse. Then I shake the eu and it get better and then worse as I move the eu. Ok my connection are not moving and are tight just the box is moving. I can tap on it and it will skip or not skip. Also I look at some date on it and the timming at idel is at 120.00 to 2.0 WTf. The vacum pressure is down from before the install to 18.8 mg before it was 21.4-21.0. Its ideling at 11.5-11.0 air fuel ration on the wide band. ANd its not picking up a tack signal.

 

Man o Man. Please check your wireing. Something is messed up bad man. If you touch your EU it shouldnt effect anything.

Please quit being qhetto and get that thing wired properly and get the car up and running !!!

 

hey its wired just like it should be all the connecters are nice and tight and ive checked the wiring over and over. Im thinking the soider is not good on ignition chip in the eu or the dam thing is no good and thats why the guy sold it on ebay.

 

To tell you truth, there are too many things to go wrong in an engine and wireing and misc stuff and thats why I elected to buy the EU NEW from www.Forgedinternals.com and not used.

Having a New Unit with a warentee takes out alot of the guess work that you have with a used unit and always questioning if the Unit is good or not.

-matt

 

You are right Im tapping on the unit and it causing the car to skip and not skip as I tap the unit and I have no warrnty on this one because I did not get it from a greddy dealer. Yeah thats where im getting my next one from. I may have the chip check one more time to see. Im not sure though. I should have bought it new. No more ebay on items like this

 

I got a vafc off ebay awhile back and I was going to run it, but when installed the car ran like the maf was bad. Unhooked the car ran fine, vafc hooked up it wouldn't go past 1500rpm. from that day i pledged never to buy used junk especially in the case of a turbo setup because the electronics have to be 100% reliable. I would just take my losses and buy brand new. Instead of the vafc I bought a emanage blue brand new. After you go thru the coils and all did you really save that much?

 

yeah you are right I could have bought it new for 500 and I paid 420 for this one claimed to be brand new but their were paremter setting for a honda in it when I got it. The coils were $125. Another $10 to soilder the chip back in and countless hours beating mine and dandymax's brains out trying to figure this out plus the long distance phone calls to Canada