Call Greddy and ask them how much they will charge to fix it.

they want even touch it not unless you bought it from a autherized greddy dealer

Really? They fixed my friends and he got it off ebay.

My brains are still intact.. lol ...but I'm sure you've had a headache or two with this now..

Charles, if all the wiring is right (and I know you've checked it many times) then it sounds to me like you have 2 choices really at this point:

1) Get an electronics shop/guru to THOROUGHLY check the EU board for cold joints (ie bad soldering). Not just the ignition chip but other components as well, and especially the bank of ignition outputs (transistors). In fact he should check to make sure they're operable and nothing's blown/burned also. EDIT: or if Kevlo is right, get Greddy to fix it...

2) Suck it up and get a new one from an authorized dealer, chalk it up to a lesson learned about buying electronics from Ebay...

OH and a 3rd thing, if possible, find someone near you with a working EU and put his unit in your car with your wiring harness and see what happens. If it runs fine then your unit is the problem and not anything to do with wiring (which it definitely sounds like going by what you describe, although yours may yet be fixable if nothing is blown, but just maybe has a cold solder joint or two)

Did you try and call again last night? I really should get a new phone, my antenna's broken on this one and lately it's giving me a lot of problems: keeps losing signals, dropping calls etc

Yeah hey I tryed to call to tell you to tell you I wasnt picking up a rpm signal. Ok when I talked to greddy they said It had to be bought a authorized dealer for them to work on it. Maybe i talked to the wrong person. SO far the people Ive talk to they werent much help. the org has been much more help!
OK I dont have anyone around with a eu to check. I wish I did. If I cant get this one fixed I will get another one. Im this far with it Im going to get it working some how. I wonder why it said my timming was at 120 degrees at idel? Im going to look at my wiring one more time today.

ok well I fianally got it up and running(thanks to dandymanx). It was a bad connection on the # 3 ignition input ar the ecu from the eu. Ok so I redid all my connection and took the little sorry *** bullet connectors off. Hoping that it will idel at 14.7 being I should have good spark. I changed all the plugs and put new ones in. Well no luck cranked it up drove it around and still idels at 10.5 to 12.1 It moves around some but mostly 11.1. The old plugs were richer on the back than the front but thats probley due to the fuel feeding the back rail first! Wonder why its going so rich and the o2 and the ecu is not correcting now I got all good connection on the coils.

Ok these are the codes I pulled from the ecu
p1320 ignition misfire
p0325 knock
p0600 How do i fix this one (serial com link)
p0130 O2 bank 1 sensor one. Maybe fouled out due to running rich it was fine before eu install

Did you tap or cut a wrong wire? You did do the resistor fix correct?

No I havent done the resistor mod yet. Will it cause drivablty problem being on? ANy Idea why im running so rich

ok I found out why the knock code keeps poping up! I was trying to test it and the wire just came right out in my hand. I must have come lose from the connector at the knock sensor itself. So how does that affect the car will it make it run rich? will it rob power? Now im in the process of taking the manifold off to fix it!

yes a knock sensor will make the car run like crap, from the FAQ in the 4th gen forum, a bad knock sensor cause the car to not run at its normal timing hence it feels sluggish. I don't know how it will affect the fuel but the KS could very well cause the ECU to dump a lot of fuel to help fight the knock?

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...3&postcount=41

Thanks for the link. When I get it back in the car should run even better than it did now.

Since you didn't do the resistors, that explains the misfire code.

ok well I replaced the o2 sensor today with a new one.I was getting code for it on the ecu. For some reason the car will idel at 14.7 if you leave it running a long time like 5 minutes with it warm but the minute you mash the pedel it goes realy rich and then will idel at like 11.7 to 12.5. It Will be at 13.5 to 12.5 at crusing some times it might just might go to 14.0 at crusing for a bit. WOT maybe anywhere from 10.1 to 12.5 just depeneding on what it feel like doing. At 2000 rmps for some reason it will be around 11.1. My o2 code is still coming up I guess becasue it can not control the A/F. Or do you think a small mis fire will do this but how cant I found it. The eu si passing stock signal at this time I verifyed this by I/J duration. what could be wrong with my car?

Just figured i'd write this for people having problems with coil packs "bleeding" i went through $400 worth of coil packs before i found the problem. Totally nothing to do with an EU as this car never saw one. I'd burn coil packs on the warmer days(Maine warm isn't that warm) I'd replace a coil and go 40 miles or 1,000 miles. Long story short i traced the problem to an ecu ground wire that runs from the ecu up through the wiring harness into the engine compartment and up to one of the 2 ground screws on the front of the intake manifold. The wire was black. It stretched where it goes by the strut tower. If you have to fix wiring in this area, make sure you also extend the wire(s) How i found this was the wire got so bad it was causing the fuel pump relay to click and make the car stumble at idle, i looked under the hood and smoke was coming from 1 of the 2 screws ground eyelet. The car died, i had my gf crank the car as i pulled on each strand of wire in the harness near the strut tower, until the affected wire just totally pulled out/detatched.