Broaner

iTrader: (10)

I'm entertaining the idea of a twin setup on my 240. I'm either going the kit route or building my own setup. If I do my own it will involve two reverse manifolds mounting the turbo just forward of the timing chain cover. If I do it that way I wanna do it right. I hate the look of the internally gated down pipe flanges so I'd like to stay with a four bolt or preferably V-band. My question is, what is the smallest externally gated turbo that can be had with either down pipe affixing method. I know any turbine with an internal gate can be blocked of and used with an external gate but as I said I hate the way those housings look. Also, I'd like to stay in the Garrett GT series.

Here you can see the GT2876. I would assume that its an internal gate except for one of the points were it says, "Turbine housing option available." That makes me wonder if the "option" means ungated housing.
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...R_705330_2.htm

Then it appears that the GT30 is a "free floating" this means non-gated; right? But twin 30's is gonna be some serious lag.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

I would custom scavenge parts and build your own kit. Youll save a bunch and have precisely the setup you want. You should check which turboes they use on the motorsports race 350z with the VQ30DETT for inspiration.

Also, Id suggest the same headers I have now if youre going to mount them reverse towards the front. You had to use the stcok Z manifolds when mounted normally, but if you mount them reverse you have the choice.

They look exactly like the DC chrome Z headers but I got them for 190$ (and thats canadian money) shipped to my door. That is ridiculously cheap and they would look awesome with two polished snails. The flange is 2.5 inches I believe. All to say the custom route can be done at a reasonable price and it will still look great.

In either case you are f*cking nuts man

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

Turbo headers need to be good stainless steel. I have a book about which material is good. It states that most NA headers are made of weak stainless which will crack and break very easily under the load of the turbo. I will make my own manifolds out of Schedule 40 or 80 cast iron weldels. Its gonna be simple and very strong and fairly cheap. That will get me going. Then maybe after I'm all settled into boost I'll have them professionally fabbed in SS or even better, Inconel steel. DP's and gate dump pipe will be Titanium.

If you plan on going boost man I seriously suggest you pick up "Street Turbocharging." Great read. Neal recomended it. Very informative but not overly indepth for a beginner.

People that know my driving style personally, tend to think I am fxcking nuts. I'm aiming for a 911'ish weight distribution and 500 lagless whp to match. With 315's or wider and a lot more weight hooking, should atleast be an entertainable idea.

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

You can get the GT28RS (2860RS), GT2871R and GT2876R without an internal wastegate. I don't see a Vband option on the site I'm looking at but if you're unable to find an off the shelf setup you could do a 4 bolt to Vband transition.

The APS TT setup for the 350Z for instance uses GT2860RS - that's on a 3.5 but still the response should be fairly close to on a 3.0. The response on the 3.5 is quite impressive. Boost comes on instantly - there is zero noticeable lag. It's just ready to go whenever you press the fun pedal.

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

Thanks so much for the info Neal. That makes my day. Really I don't mind 4 bolt BP's. They aren't as asthetically pleasing IMO and they have a slightly higher tendancy to leak and warp but I'm not too worried about that. I just don't want the stupid 5 bolt flange. Ugly and a PITA to seperate the gated stream within the DP.

If I was going to go the kit route it was going to be via the APS system. Thats very comforting to know that is the unit they utilize. I was also hoping to use one of their IC's I like the twin entry on opposite sides and then the beneficial shorter less air bending flow path through the core as was explained in that exellent book you recomended.

I should have mentioned, I decided to drop the attempt to go for an SCCA legal car. I realized that the class I was hoping to run in requires OEM floorpans. Putting the motor as far back as I plan is going to make that impossible. Secondly, I came to the realization that the 3.5 is the way too go. The major deciding factor for me was the IM. The only way to get a truely sick IM on a 30 is if you build it yourself. I'm in no mood to do that especially when the 35 heads are superior. As a result, a low mileage 35 is on its way come tax return time; along with lots of other accompanying goodies. Basically, I just want an awesome HPDE car and a possible unlimited class Time Attacker. And then for the street, I want a jet fighter.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Good choice on the 35. I got mine for 600$.

codyace

iTrader: (6)

Twin 28r's (disco potato's) are really going to kick *** on your setup (esepcially in such a lightweight car).

As said above, boost is damn near instant on any car they are put on, and you'd in essence be copying the small JWT t/t setup for their Z's.


As far as VBAND turbines are concerned, check www.atpturbo.com to see if they offer a vband turbine housing or perhaps look into their nice short adapter fromt he t28 discharge to vband....


As far as HPDE is concerned, anythign with 350-420 hp that has awesome response, is goin to seriously rip up much bigger power cars. I run my 240 at 12-15 psi on track days, (320-330ish whp) and it makes cars triple to 4x it's value look silly out there.

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

Its been a while but thanks for the responses.

I love seeing home built enthusiast cars dominating all those $70K+ "supercars".

One more question reguarding the 28's. Can they be had in counter-rotating fashion? I.e: symetrical on a reverse manifold twin setup? I really love the symetrical look. I've been looking around on various places including ATP with no avail. I guess it will require an email if nobody has any insight.

So its my understanding that these would work very well. I'd want go with a .63 housing; correct?
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=GRT

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

New info in this category. I'm on this all the way in about four months. Just thought I'd post up the info for others. Tial has come through in a big way. Check all the features.
http://www.tialsport.com/prod%20ss%20turbo.html

Couple Q's that I'm hoping the turbo genius' will know:
Is the SS housing a benefit besides the weight saving? Specifically, does SS have less heat sinking characteristics than iron? Will even the SS develop surface rust due surface impurities collecting and the extreme heat? And partially related, should the housing still be heat coated?

wunfstmax

iTrader: (7)

I do believe that I read turbine housings are cast steel not iron. So in essence you would be comparing the cast steel to ss. I also think the grade of ss will dictate the rust or lack there of you would get. Im not an expert in metal urgy, but if the housing is 304 or in the 300 grade family then you will probably have no rusting issues, seeing how the 304 or similar have great corrision resistance and high temperature resistance.

As I have ventured into the world of fabrication I have found the welding/fab forum on honda-tech a very valuable tool. Lots of great advice if you haven't checked it out it is definately something worth doing so.

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

Second point:
-Cast stainless steel.

Thanks for the insights. Maybe I'll drop a line to Tial to find out the type of SS.

I like getting my fabrication tips from books so... Neal recomended "Street Turbocharging" and I love it.