I have it installed and everything but the belt isnt being run right I belive...All the belt it has to go through is the crank, altenator, idler/tensioner, and SC correct? Also when I start the car the idle isnt the best and it kind of sputters. Do you have a vaccum layout on where to get vaccum for BOV and FMU to make it run correctly Also FMU fuel lines. Please get back to me asap. Thanks

 

Im running 10psi Pulley, Stock Injectors, 255 Walbro FP, 12:1 FMU, Greddy Type RS BOV

 

We got the car idling better...way better but when we tap the gas it just boggs down...what could be the problem?

 

TPS?....does it rev up at all before boggin?

 

yes rev up a little but boggs down then eventually shuts off.... and sumtimes it doesnt even rev up and it boggs...but whats the TPS and how can we fix it??

 

The most common spot to get vacuum for all your goodies is at the OEM fuel pressure regulator (fpr). There's a vacuum hose coming from the vacuum line gallery which connects to the fpr. You need to intercept this. Simply cut the vacuum hose, insert a dual vacuum 'T' for you FMU and BOV, and reconnect.

The FMU basically goes in between the fuel rail and the return line. The line that goes to the fuel tank you want to place the FMU there. Basically the line from the fuel rail you want to hook it up to the side of the FMU. Then the bottom fitting will go to the line to that leads to the fuel tank. So basically you are cutting the return line and placing the FMU in between it. Then all you need to do is hook up any vacuum line to the top of the FMU.

Are you using Ptatohed's supercharger install write-up? Sounds like you didn't use anything to go by since you don't know how to run the fuel lines. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Your problem also sounds like you forgot to plug the MAF back in. Did you install the air temp sensor correctly in the charge pipe near the TB? After checking those two things, I'd say you have a vacuum leak some where.

Ummm. how did you get the car idling better?

When you say 10psi pulley, you mean a 3.125 pulley, right?

 

i got the car idling better by repositioning one of the vacuum liknes to the charger pipe and its the 3.25 pulley

 

What does that mean? There are no vacuum lines going to the charge pipe directly. Are you talking about the 1/2" breather hose that connects from the IACV to the charge pipe near the TB? That 1/2" hose should have a vacuum T coming off of it.....

 

yea i connected that hose and why do i need a T off that one and where does it go to??

 

The t goes to the other vacuum line (5/32) that was plugged into your stock intake resonator box.

 

ok heres whats going on car starts and run to 3k and just boggs down but if i rev it to 3 and peg it like 2-3 secs later it shoots up in rpms and its fine...its fine from 1-3k then boggs at 3k unless pegged and then it shoots up...what could that be and I ran all the vaccums from the vaccum line coming from the top of the FPR (BOV, FMU) and I have that vaccum going from the throttle body to the charge pipe but no T off that and IDK where to bring the T to and also the crank case I have a little breather filter....I have no clue on whats happening!

 

running 10 psi, stock injectors, fmu 12:1, and 255 walbro fp, and ZEX Spark plugs for turbo, supercharged, and nitrous applications...so idk

 

also SC is sputtering and popping Idk whats going on with it but if it is not complete by tomorow it will be up for sale... I juss cant have my car down for to long and I'll just shoot nitrous kit is great and all but I cant figure it out someone with more experience can do it

 

The scfid that Josh did has it backwards. He says that the 90 fitting on the side of the FMU is the 'out', which of course is incorrect.

 

Dude, I just told you. Before you installed the SC you had 2 vacuum lines going to the intake in between the MAF and the TB. One was a large 7/8 hose. THe other was a small 5/32. You need to cut the larger line and insert a t that you can use for the small 5/32, which is probably just dangling in your engine bay. You need to resolve this before moving forward.

 

Why are you running a 12:1 disk in your FMU? You should be running an 8:1.

 

Take Close Up Picks Of Your Install.

 

So thats it? You're 99.9% done here. You have already done most of the work. Rent a car while you finish up if you must, or ride the bus.

 

does the stillen kit come with the 8:1 disk
what does changing the disk do and why would you change it

 

That's what I was thinking too.. Too much fuel pressure. If he got the OBX FMU, I believe it comes with a 12:1 disc, standard. That could explain the 12:1 disc.


Yes, if you bought the original Stillen kit, the disc in the FMU was/is 8:1 The disc inside the FMU basically controls the amount of pressure (backpressure that is) on the fuel line.

3:1--------->12:1
less fuel pressure-------->more fuel pressure
less fuel------------>more fuel

So, as you go down in pulley sizes, ie adding more air, you better add more fuel too (but at the expense of running dangerously high fuel pressures, not good)

OP, Are you sure you hooked up the fuel lines correct to the FMU??
Also, don't give up like I30ds said. You're so close. It's an easy fix.

 

And that vacuum line connects to the vacuum gallery under the TB. Is it just dangling connected to nothing Epz?

That's right. I forgot about that. Josh meant to rewrite that part and resubmit to VQpower. I'll remind him.

OP, follow my directions as stated above. They are accurate

 

yea I grabbed the line from the top of the fuel filter for fuel in, then I grabbed a line close to that one that was running back into the tank...i dont know guys the car is sputtering, and sc is poping and everything and I cant be down a car and I dont have the money to rent one or anything like that...ughh I wish someone around the Rhode Island, Massachusetts area had a SC maxima to help me out or even do the install for me and I'de pay

 

Still sounds like you have the fuel lines wrong. Don't mess with the fuel line coming from the fuel filter. Let it go to the fuel rail. You want to catch the fuel hose coming from the fuel rail on its way back to the gas tank, intercept it as stated above in post #6, and your done!!

 

This makes no sense.

All I can tell you is that the line from the top of the fuel filter is NOT used with the FMU. Like Wizard said, the FMU needs to be installed on the return line with the 90 fitting on the FMU as the 'in' and the fitting on the bottom as the 'out'.

 

if its not vacuum (very likely), it could be super lean. Thats causes a bog and stumble in the lower rpm.

 

Definately. Prior posts make me think he bought a used Stillen kit which would come with the 8:1 ratio disk... unless the previous owner switched disks for some reason.

 

It sounding more and more like his fuel lines are all hooked up wrong... in additon to the missing vacuum line.