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Vortech Bolts - Timing Cover Leak?

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Old Jul 16, 2007 | 07:27 AM
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Vortech Bolts - Timing Cover Leak?

Hey,

I recently boosted my 4.5 gen (V2 Kit), and I'm missing a bolt or two on the plate (attaching to timing cover).

I noticed that I was leaking oil onto my alternator, and went ahead and swapped valve covers, yet the leak is still there. I've come to realize that it's coming from the timing cover. My question is, can the bolt or two that's missing from the plate cause the oil to leak (can the blower be pulling the timing cover up a bit?).

I don't know what's up, I have big plans for the car, but can't do anything till I fix this leak. If someone could shed some light on the subject I'd appreciate it.

Also, does anyone have the exact specs on the bolts that attach the blower to the timing cover, or know someplace to get them. Need help ASAP fellas....thanks in advance.
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 98MaXeDouT
Hey,

I recently boosted my 4.5 gen (V2 Kit), and I'm missing a bolt or two on the plate (attaching to timing cover).

I noticed that I was leaking oil onto my alternator, and went ahead and swapped valve covers, yet the leak is still there. I've come to realize that it's coming from the timing cover. My question is, can the bolt or two that's missing from the plate cause the oil to leak (can the blower be pulling the timing cover up a bit?).

I don't know what's up, I have big plans for the car, but can't do anything till I fix this leak. If someone could shed some light on the subject I'd appreciate it.

Also, does anyone have the exact specs on the bolts that attach the blower to the timing cover, or know someplace to get them. Need help ASAP fellas....thanks in advance.
Sure about the timing cover? It's often the oil drain back plate associated with the SC install.

Which bolt are you referring to exactly? Look at page 62 of Josh's supercharger install writeup for a diagram of the plate and the all the bolts that go with it.


http://www.ericj.org/maxima/doc/scifd.pdf


Josh spent countless hours putting that writeup together. It's a shame more people don't read it, follow it, and get valuable information from it. Stillens instructions are even included as a reference.
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
Sure about the timing cover? It's often the oil drain back plate associated with the SC install.

Which bolt are you referring to exactly? Look at page 62 of Josh's supercharger install writeup for a diagram of the plate and the all the bolts that go with it.


http://www.ericj.org/maxima/doc/scifd.pdf


Josh spent countless hours putting that writeup together. It's a shame more people don't read it, follow it, and get valuable information from it. Stillens instructions are even included as a reference.

Trust me...I;ve done the install 10x. It's not the drain back plate. The oil is coming from the timing cover
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 11:02 AM
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It could be possible. Why not just put the bolts back in and see if that does the job?
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by i30ds
It could be possible. Why not just put the bolts back in and see if that does the job?

Never had them,....waiting for a set from Matty...
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 98MaXeDouT
Never had them,....waiting for a set from Matty...
So did you have a leak before the SC install?
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
So did you have a leak before the SC install?

No...I had a leak a few weeks after, and it was the drainback hose on the blower side. I fixed that, and now notice the oil was also leaking onto the alternator from the timing cover...I'm hoping I can just add these bolts when I get them, and not have to reseal the timing cover. I got my fingers crossed.
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 98MaXeDouT
Never had them,....waiting for a set from Matty...
Why wait? Just go down to the hardware store and get some more...
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 98MaXeDouT
Hey,

I recently boosted my 4.5 gen (V2 Kit), and I'm missing a bolt or two on the plate (attaching to timing cover).

I noticed that I was leaking oil onto my alternator, and went ahead and swapped valve covers, yet the leak is still there. I've come to realize that it's coming from the timing cover. My question is, can the bolt or two that's missing from the plate cause the oil to leak (can the blower be pulling the timing cover up a bit?).

I don't know what's up, I have big plans for the car, but can't do anything till I fix this leak. If someone could shed some light on the subject I'd appreciate it.

Also, does anyone have the exact specs on the bolts that attach the blower to the timing cover, or know someplace to get them. Need help ASAP fellas....thanks in advance.

Im on my 2nd motor and im going thru the same poop you are. Im tierd of the freaking oil leak...Dont know what to do.
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by i30ds
Why wait? Just go down to the hardware store and get some more...
Anyone know what length??

I know the thread is M6...unsure of the length...
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 98MaXeDouT
Anyone know what length??

I know the thread is M6...unsure of the length...
Like I said before, it's on page 62 (and page 57 FWIW) in the writeup. Lazzzzzy.
Old Jul 17, 2007 | 11:27 AM
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FYI, I had adn still have the same leak. Oil leaking and this is with the SC off. I think my timing chain cover has to be resealed.
Old Jul 26, 2007 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 98MaXeDouT
Anyone know what length??

I know the thread is M6...unsure of the length...
i had the same problem the oil leaked right on my alt and blew it out. the bolts are 10mm and you can build them up with washers. the original standoff bolts lock the timing cover to the motor before you put the sc on. when you tighten the sc you are pulling the cover away from the motor. if you lock down the cover before you put the sc on your car shouldnt leak, it worked for me.
Old Jul 26, 2007 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by C MAX
i had the same problem the oil leaked right on my alt and blew it out. the bolts are 10mm and you can build them up with washers. the original standoff bolts lock the timing cover to the motor before you put the sc on. when you tighten the sc you are pulling the cover away from the motor. if you lock down the cover before you put the sc on your car shouldnt leak, it worked for me.
I'm confused by your post......which bolts are 10mm?? OEM? The timing cover is not threaded itself, so I don't see how the cover would be pulled away from the motor when the blower plate is installed. Once the plate is mounted to the engine, the cover is just like it was before the install, and snug as a bug.

Is it possible you guys are overtightening the bolts which mount the plate to the engine? Stillen provided torque specs for a reason.
Old Jul 26, 2007 | 03:27 PM
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Well, we pulled the plate off, added the bolts that matty mentioned in his post. I didnt notice a leak....but I've barely driven it. I'll report back.
Old Jul 26, 2007 | 07:33 PM
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I dont understand that either...build them up with washers ?? please explain

-matt
Old Jul 26, 2007 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by matty
I dont understand that either...build them up with washers ?? please explain

-matt

I think he means that if the bolts are too long, you can always add some washers and lessen the amount of bolt going into the plate/timing cover.
Old Jul 28, 2007 | 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
I'm confused by your post......which bolts are 10mm?? OEM? The timing cover is not threaded itself, so I don't see how the cover would be pulled away from the motor when the blower plate is installed. Once the plate is mounted to the engine, the cover is just like it was before the install, and snug as a bug.

Is it possible you guys are overtightening the bolts which mount the plate to the engine? Stillen provided torque specs for a reason.
the timing cover can be pulled back if you dont lock it, thats why stillen provided stanoff bolts, if you have any idea what those are. the 10 mm bolts used to lock the plate are not oem you have to build them because stillen doesnt make them anymore. i built a few for people in the past who had this problem and it worked fine. i can get stillen to make one but it's very costly.
Old Jul 28, 2007 | 07:13 AM
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Picture ?? I never heard anything about these

How can you put anything between the plate and the timing cover and still have the belt line up...

BTW: I am lost


-matt
Old Jul 28, 2007 | 09:51 AM
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We need update on this!!! What happend with the leak?
Old Jul 28, 2007 | 07:16 PM
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I'll let you guys know...it seems dry, but I have a bolt broken in the valve cover that's leaking, and I'm waiting to ge it done Wed. So I'll get a definite answer then.
Old Jul 28, 2007 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
I'm confused by your post......which bolts are 10mm?? OEM? The timing cover is not threaded itself, so I don't see how the cover would be pulled away from the motor when the blower plate is installed. Once the plate is mounted to the engine, the cover is just like it was before the install, and snug as a bug.

Is it possible you guys are overtightening the bolts which mount the plate to the engine? Stillen provided torque specs for a reason.
so i just looked at the Stillen notes, 10ft-lbs of torque, didnt realize it was that little. i definitely have mine over-torqued.

...and i just went out and torqued them down to spec, cause it was bothering me so bad after i read this right before i went to bed.
Old Jul 29, 2007 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by matty
Picture ?? I never heard anything about these

How can you put anything between the plate and the timing cover and still have the belt line up...

BTW: I am lost


-matt
if you brought a kit brand new from stillen they provide standoff bolts. they lock the timing cover in place prior to the sc installment. i have been installing these since 97 and have brought several brand new sc's from stillen so i know exactly what im talking about. and matty for you to ask such a question is shocking i thought you knew all about this, but either way 98maxeout i can probably meet up with you and show you exactly what you need to do.
Old Jul 29, 2007 | 01:37 PM
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I never heard of such a thing. Im sorry but I thought you just put the bolts in the case and your done.

I dont think this exists for the V1 install http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ht=stand+bolts

Maybe take some pics ??

-matt
Old Jul 30, 2007 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by matty
I never heard of such a thing. Im sorry but I thought you just put the bolts in the case and your done.

I dont think this exists for the V1 install http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ht=stand+bolts

Maybe take some pics ??

-matt
i can try to get a pic but it's hard to see with the plate on. on the timing cover near the thermostat the cover indents about a 1/2in from the rest of the plate. these bolts have a 1/2 in head build up and you put them in before you remove the rest of the bolts to put the plate and creates a flush environment for the sc plate . it locks the cover so it doesnt move and leak while installing the sc plate. the screw is a 10 mm bolt with a 1/2in head that threads right thru, and after you drop the plate over it you screw straight thru the plate and the bolt. i forget you work a lot with the v1 plate, but this is one of the main reason's why people had belt issues because they never knew these exsisted. i have never had belt issues, you can ask tj max 98maxeout and everybody else that i have met, my belt has never and will never have a belt issue as long as it's installed properly.
Old Jul 30, 2007 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by C MAX
i can try to get a pic but it's hard to see with the plate on. on the timing cover near the thermostat the cover indents about a 1/2in from the rest of the plate. these bolts have a 1/2 in head build up and you put them in before you remove the rest of the bolts to put the plate and creates a flush environment for the sc plate . it locks the cover so it doesnt move and leak while installing the sc plate. the screw is a 10 mm bolt with a 1/2in head that threads right thru, and after you drop the plate over it you screw straight thru the plate and the bolt. i forget you work a lot with the v1 plate, but this is one of the main reason's why people had belt issues because they never knew these exsisted. i have never had belt issues, you can ask tj max 98maxeout and everybody else that i have met, my belt has never and will never have a belt issue as long as it's installed properly.
Yo, I'll be calling you this week. Got some questions...

And yes, he's NEVER had a belt shredding problem
Old Aug 6, 2007 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by C MAX
the timing cover can be pulled back if you dont lock it, thats why stillen provided stanoff bolts, if you have any idea what those are. the 10 mm bolts used to lock the plate are not oem you have to build them because stillen doesnt make them anymore. i built a few for people in the past who had this problem and it worked fine. i can get stillen to make one but it's very costly.
Of course I know what standoff bolts are wiseguy They screw into the engine just like the OEM bolts did. Then the plate gets mounted and the bolts secures the plate to the standoff bolts. How is this "locking" again? It isn't. This isn't rocket science. There are there simply as more points to connect the blower plate to the engine. You even say it yourself in the text below.

If someone was to remove the OEM bolts and get longer bolts to try to secure the plate to the engine, w/o spacers, standoff bolts, or anything of the sort,then they would be making a very poor decision and asking for problems. IMO, if one doesn't have the proper standoff bolts, they should leave the OEM bolts intact and not mess with it at all. The plate has enough mounting points as it is.


Originally Posted by C MAX
i can try to get a pic but it's hard to see with the plate on. on the timing cover near the thermostat the cover indents about a 1/2in from the rest of the plate. these bolts have a 1/2 in head build up and you put them in before you remove the rest of the bolts to put the plate and creates a flush environment for the sc plate . it locks the cover so it doesnt move and leak while installing the sc plate. the screw is a 10 mm bolt with a 1/2in head that threads right thru, and after you drop the plate over it you screw straight thru the plate and the bolt. i forget you work a lot with the v1 plate, but this is one of the main reason's why people had belt issues because they never knew these exsisted. i have never had belt issues, you can ask tj max 98maxeout and everybody else that i have met, my belt has never and will never have a belt issue as long as it's installed properly.
Now your associating standoff bolts with shredding belt issues???? No way. I respectfully disagree with you. I'm pretty darn sure I know why people have shredding belt issues, but I won't go into that.....
Old Aug 6, 2007 | 10:50 AM
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IMO i believe shredding issues has more to do with a properly aligned plate and blower more than it has to do with v1 or v2. think about it, if the plate is not perfectly parallel with the timing cover in both lenght and width, you are going to shred your belt.
Old Aug 6, 2007 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by VIP Maxima
IMO i believe shredding issues has more to do with a properly aligned plate and blower more than it has to do with v1 or v2. think about it, if the plate is not perfectly parallel with the timing cover in both lenght and width, you are going to shred your belt.
IMO, installing the plate to the engine is idiot proof and can't be screwed up, provided you use the correct bolts and follows Stillens instructions or the SCIFD. If someone can't do that right, they shouldn't be installing a SC to begin with. How can it not be properly aligned if using the correct bolts etc etc and not trying to McGyver $hit with washers, incorrect bolts and stuff????
Old Aug 6, 2007 | 01:08 PM
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i have read posts about members using washers along with the bolts to space things out, why is beyond me.
Old Aug 7, 2007 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
IMO, installing the plate to the engine is idiot proof and can't be screwed up, provided you use the correct bolts and follows Stillens instructions or the SCIFD. If someone can't do that right, they shouldn't be installing a SC to begin with. How can it not be properly aligned if using the correct bolts etc etc and not trying to McGyver $hit with washers, incorrect bolts and stuff????
stop being macho it is not idiot proof, that kit has some hard to reach bolts and if there not aligned properly you will get flex which leads to shredded belts. i.ve owned a few sc kits since the early 90's so i know them very well. i had the v1 and several v2's and havent had any issues at all. either way his car is fixed after following my advice so the issue is dead. p.s i also have one of the baddest sc maximas in ny lol, so that's proof enough i know my stuff.
Old Aug 7, 2007 | 08:07 PM
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Can we get pics here for the lost one's here!
Old Aug 8, 2007 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by C MAX
stop being macho it is not idiot proof, that kit has some hard to reach bolts and if there not aligned properly you will get flex which leads to shredded belts.
Just stating the facts sir. I hate it when people make a bigger deal out of something than it really is. Sure, the kit has some hard to reach bolts, but what do hard to reach bolts have to do with flex and installing the plate correctly? Nothing, absolutely nothing. Your logic makes no sense whatsoever. Or maybe you just stink at explaining what you mean. The plate goes on one way, and one way only. After installing the plate using the numerous easy to reach bolts, the individual should then attempt the hard to reach bolts. Since all the other bolts are in place, the hard to reach bolts will line up by default. IF, and this is a big IF, the final hard to reach bolts don’t line up and screw in smoothly, the individual should loosen the other mounting bolts just enough to wiggle the plate ever so slightly, so that the remaining bolts can be installed properly. This is not rocket science, it’s common sense. Then all the bolts should be tightened properly given the torque specs in the Stillen instructions. After using the correct bolts and installing it per Stillens instructions (ie correct torque etc), a perfect install will be achieved every time.

A flexing plate is total bs IMO. Until you have real proof, please stop spewing misinformation.

Originally Posted by C MAX
i.ve owned a few sc kits since the early 90's so i know them very well.
Early 90's huh, the SC kit didn't come out until the end of 1995/early 96.

Originally Posted by C MAX
i had the v1 and several v2's and havent had any issues at all. either way his car is fixed after following my advice so the issue is dead. p.s i also have one of the baddest sc maximas in ny lol, so that's proof enough i know my stuff.
Macho eh, let's look at your post giving Matty a slight dig while offering assistance and patting yourself on the back at the same time. Not to mention some of your comments stated above.
Originally Posted by C MAX
if you brought a kit brand new from stillen they provide standoff bolts. they lock the timing cover in place prior to the sc installment. i have been installing these since 97 and have brought several brand new sc's from stillen so i know exactly what im talking about. and matty for you to ask such a question is shocking i thought you knew all about this, but either way 98maxeout i can probably meet up with you and show you exactly what you need to do.
/rant

All is good. Carry on.
Old Aug 9, 2007 | 11:25 AM
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That is enough. If you want to argue about this some more take it to PM's. Thread closed. Anyone has something useful to add send me a PM and I'll consider it.
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