We were finally able to mount blower on engine and hook up the belt. However, we notice some smoke coming up when we started the engine. Was wondering if anybody have diagram or pics of how the belt is suppose to hook up? Now is the belt suppose to be close to where the tensioner bracket is at? Now how tight are you suppose to tighten the tensioner bracket? My car is a 5gen by the way and it's a V2 kit with V1 plate.

 

Smoke is coming up from where? If you're talking about the belt is the belt rubbing?
Look for ptatohd's install instructions in the stickies for belt routing. The belt is very close to the belt tensioner bracket. You should be using the stock belt tensioner btw and not the Stillen one.
Belt tightness is where you should be able to twist the belt about 90 degrees with your fingers.

 

Do u happen to have link to where ptatohds install instruction stickies for belt routing at? I didnt see it in the stickies anywhere. I am using stock tensioner bracket since i have v1 plate. The belt doesnt look like its melting we think it might be from oil leak.

 

Gene i got it fixed. I found the problem and its working properly now. Its a good thing you left me your car for 24 hours to fix it. It is running fine now,... like a charm

 

What was it?

 

ok a couple of things that i want to discuss. First, what in the world do i need to do in order to post a new thread? Donations, know that right peeps, what? Please let me know what needs to be done and also to search, i cant seem to search anymore. OK now to the real question at hand....

I have to change the belt that is on my V2 supercharger and pulled it off today (which was actually easier than i thought). Since i had everything off and running the stock pulley i wanted to know first of all how to change the pulley without damaging anything. If changing the pulley is easy enough i wanted to know what size is recommended for my driving habits. 90% of the miles i put on the car are highway miles. I drive 80 miles one way to work 5 days a week in my '98 I30. It currently has the stock pulley and i dont feel the big pull until the 3000rpm range. With that being said when driving to work i am in the 2500 rpm range (around 70 mph) on the highway for an hour or so. I am getting on average 25 mpg (is this mpg about right using 93 octane?) and would not like to have that get any worse if possible.

So my question to you experts out there what size pulley would you recommend going to with the type of driving that i do daily. If possible i would like to knock down the 3000rpm range pull but not too much as to have it in the 2500 rpm range. Any ideas?

Here is another question about the car, it has the following mods to it when i bought the car. 1998 I30 with Stillen V2 supercharger with mattys kit, budget headers and y-pipe, Custom cold air Intake w/ K&N Cone Filter, VB kit on trans, walbro pump, and car lowered with kyb struts and eiback springs. What type of HP should i expect from this car? Besides changing the pulley size what can i do to the car to get more HP with out impacting fuel mileage too much?

I know i have asked alot and thanks for the patience and help!!!!

Crazyred

 

Here's what I got from stickies that list size of pulley and amount of boost you'll get with them. Personally I wouldn't go above 9psi unless you were 5sp but it's your decision. Anything above 9psi I would recommend 5sp swap or upgraded torque convertor w/ higher stall speed. Do you currently have tranny cooler on there if not I would get one.


V2 owners

3.6 - 7 psi
3.33 - 9 psi
3.25 - 10 psi
3.125 - 11 psi
2.87 - 13 psi

 

Belt was routed through the wrong part of the V1 plate causing it to burn up the top of the belt

 

Hi Crazyred,
I've noticed that after going from the stock 3.60" pulley to 3.33" to 3.125" that it still kicks in around 3000rpm. Pulley size is all about how much hp you want out of the system. I'm seeing about 400km per tank roughly these days.

 

Here is the answer I sent you when you asked me the same questions in a PM:

The diagrams are in my write up. My write up is for the V2 most specifically but I have the V1 instructions in the appendix. I'm pretty certain the belt route is shown in the V1 instructions.

I don't know what you are asking in this sentence so I can not answer you: "Now is the tensioner bracket suppose to close to the belt?"

The belt tension is also clearly spelled out in my write-up. I'm not sure why you installed a supercharger without reading my instructions (or even Stillen's for that matter because the belt tension is clearly spelled out in Stillen's instructions). Anyway, grab the middle of the longest belt run (from AC to crank pulley) and twist it in a corkscrew motion until you can't twist it past 90^.

- Josh

 

^^The OP is asking if the tensioner is supposed to be close to the belt. The answer is yes for V1 applications, as previously mentioned.

 

That's what this mean???

"Now is the tensioner bracket suppose to close to the belt?"


Huh?

 

for james's & josh's install. flawless 4 life !!! knock on wood

 

We found out the belt is rubbing against the inner post of matty's V1 plate. I need to talk to him to see what can be done. All we can think of is to file down the post so that way it's not touching.

 

which post is it rubbing against???? i have no rubbing issues with mine. is the plate flush? did you guys shave off the alternator and allow proper mounting of thermostat housing? the plate is tricky in that area.

 

When you modify your STOCK pulley to a SMALLER pulley, your belt WILL get closer to that INNER post. On EVERY setup, you need to either grind down that post a bit or completely CUT it off depending on the size of the pulley your going to.

V1 or V2 Plate, this is ALWAYS an issue. DONT Blame the V1 Plate

-matt

 

that is probably why its rubbing. Gene and I will end up grinding it down probably

 

I thought you did not have to grind/cut the leg on the V1 plate. No?

At what size pulley does one need to start shaving the leg on a V1 plate? We didn't shave down the leg on VIPs V1 plate.

 

That's what I was thinking since the belt is routed the way stillen intended. And matty's plate is a exact replica of a V1 plate so it shouldn't need to be shave/grind down. Does anybody that have a V1 plate on their 5gen V2 kit have the same problem I'm having?

 

Did you check the V1 instructions to make sure you have the belt routed correctly like I suggested? Also, check the hose clamp on the drain back hose. I've had to rotate them before because they can get pretty close to the belt if situated in a certain manner.

 

Yes I used the V1 and V2 directions when we were installing my sc. We routed the way stillen had originally intended. I will double check the oil drain back hose but I'm sure it's not rubbing the belt. Any more problems after this I might have to give up and put up sc for sale.

 

Fearfox part II

Don't get too frustrated bro. Take some pics and show us how you have the belt aligned. We'll help you out.

 

I'll try to take some pics during the day and circle the point where the belt is touching/rubbing inner post. This way you guys can get a better idea of what I'm talking about.

 

please do so. if you want, i can take pictures of mine from up top. how long have u guys been working on it ? if you are struggling with it, just leave it and come back..... once its up and running, it will all be worth it. if u dont take ur time doing it now, u will have problems later in the future. fine tuning @ initiall install is the key.

 

Just for clarification, I've taken a look at his car. I haven't had a chance to see it with the belt routed, but I could clearly see rubber build up on the section illustrated in the picture below as well as all over the alternator.



It looks as if the back (smooth) side of the belt is catching that cornor (mind you this is with a 3.6" pulley). This is also causing some slight scarring on the belt as well. Unfortunately I won't have a chance to get my hands on it till the end of October though.

 

Thanks for your pics you listed on the other posting. I decided to not give up this easy and get back at it. I also deleted my for sale listing until it's absolutely no choice and I have to sell. Your pulley bolt is definately very close to timing cover but I don't have that problem. We originally had the belt routed the you had it but the smooth side of belt was rubbing/touching the inner post. So we end up switching it to the opposite side of post it's not touching but not correct way of routing the belt. So we need to switch it back to the original way so if I take pics it'll be on the wrong side of post. Could u take pics of where your belt is at near the inner post? Below show you where my belt is routed but not right side of post. When I switch to left side of post the smooth side of belt is the side that is rubbing/touching the post and that is where smoke is coming from.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo...56480360avHHhk

 

I don't see your pulley size posted. What size is it?

 

its hard to take pics of that. do you SEE It clearly rubbing against the post? or are you assuming based on the smell? i remeber that the belt was VERY tricky on the idler pulley that attaches to the plate, it barely clears the sidewall of the pulley. i think thats where you are rubbing, make sure your plate is securely attached to the timing chain cover and make sure your idler is properly installed on the plate.... i just cant imagine why your belt would hit the post. i will take a closer look at mine today

 

BlackCat, it's this size:

 

ok dont know where else to post this so here it goes....

I tried to change pulleys on my V2 this week and the dang pulley hex head bolt stripped out. Now i cant figure out how to get the dang thang off to change the pulley to the new one.

For whatever reason the pulley bolt didnt even move when i put the impact gun on it and then a breaker bar. Tried everything and even called vortech for their advice on breaking the bolt free and nothing worked. So today i gave it one last try to get it off and the hex hole stripped out. Any suggestions on how to get this off now or do i need to send it to vortech to have them do it?

Extremely FRUSTRATED!!

 

Eeeeew. That sucks crazyred. Not to intentionally make you feel worse but I have had nightmares about things like this. What were you using to keep the pulley from turning? Why did the bolt strip? The only reason it would/could strip is if you used an allen wrench sized too small. Is it so far stripped that if you now used the propper sized allen wrench, it still wouldn't work? My suggestions in this order would be: use the exact correct size wrench and try again. If that strips, try (between metric and english) to find an allen wrench ever so slightly larger than needed and hammer it in. You might also expirement with different shapes like sqaures and stars. Be sure to do lots of pre-soak with PB Blaster or WD. Make sure your pulley can't spin (use the wrap-the-belt-around-the-pulley trick to keep it from spinning). Make sure you have a friend or some sort if vice to keep the blower from moving around. Use a pipe on the end of the allen wrench and turn slowly. Try these things first and report back to us. Next we'll start talking about drilling out the bolt and possibly cutting off the pulley if it comes to that. Others may have some good advise too. Good luck!

 

well i finally had the bolt removed. I had to take it to a machine shop who was able to weld material on it and clamp on to it with some vice grips. They heated it enough and were able to work it off. When i called vortech to ask about them doing it they said it would be considered a major rebuild and would charge $1100. I figured i would try the machine shop first before i dumped that much cash. So for $150 i cant complain.

now for the installation. I had to order another pulley bolt assembly kit from vortech and they sent out a regular bolt and flat washer. This is different from the countersunk flat allen head bolt that was originally on it. Are those available anywhere? I had to grind the head of the bolt down in order to keep it from rubbing the engine. Once i got that corrected i put on the belt based on the recommendations from the parts list post and it was too big.

Gates belt sizes for V2:

3.60 to 3.33 - K060710
3.25 to 3.125 - K060705
3.00 to 2.87 - K060703

i went from a 3.6 to a 3.33 pulley and had to end up using the belt size for the 3.0 - 2.87 pulleys. Actually the belt could have been shorter for a better fit. Has anyone found a better belt size?

All in all, i have it back together and everything is working fine now and can tell a difference between the two pulley sizes. So thanks for the input from everyone, its on to the next mod.

on a side note i also changed the walbro fuel pump screen to the stock one and can now suck all the gas out of the tank if i want.

Crazyred