Looks like one of the ring gaps ended up on the thrust side of the cylinder. Or maybe the big end scratched it ...? How careful were you removing the piston/rod? Doesn't really matter much at this point, but just want to get to the bottom of why it's there in the first place.

 

I was very careful removing it. I even used a few layers of tape to cover the sharp corners on the rod. Very ghetto way in doing it but I didn't have anything else or any other ideas at the time to remove it since it was obvious enough that the rod will scratch the walls. Like I said before the scratch was somewhat glazed over and a bit dull. I should of taken the picture before cleaning the cylinder walls with brakleen to show you how it looked....too late now so i'm getting another block..

 

If your trashing the short block I'll take it
I dont think anything is wrong with it

 

i can feel the scratch with my finger after honing it. The other scratch I do not feel. oh not trashing the block yet....but i ll let you know.

 

I have a few questions about main bearings. I was looking through the FSM and they have certain grade depending on the specs of the main bearing housing diameter. I will be using a different block and using the crank that I have so it looks like I will have to change them as well.

I'm looking at the cosworth main bearings as well. These should be a direct swap correct? There's only one size I belive for these main bearings...

It looks like I will be dumping more money that I have to for this engine.....I can get another engine with 40k miles for $400 but I dont think it's a 2004 with EGR that I want. With the amount of money that I'm throwing in on this motor....It looks like I should pick up with other motor with from my friend. I really need a motor to go in since my 3.0 is messed up..

 

What did you want to know about them?

Yes they are a direct swap. They are geared toward the center of the clearance spectrum but it would still be wise to plastigage them (at the least) before installing them for good.

 

Thanks..oh about the questions...it was one really...about certain grades..I found it on the fsm...it seems to be cheaper as well buying cosworth over OEM.

It seems like I'm spending alot of money and time trying to fix this one and instead I can get another 3.5 for cheap...

 

Ok so i got another motor about 2 months ago. picked up a 02 motor with 40k miles.

stripped it down and this is what i have on/going to have on:
1. re ring piston rings with 07 3.5 altima rings
2. arp rod bolts
3. cosworth head gasket with copper spray
4. arp head studs (standard)
5. s1 knock of cams with stephen max's cam adaptors
6. new rev oil pump
7. new water pump
8. new guide tensioner
9. thermal phenolic intake spacers
10. kinetix manifold
11. cattman headers

I cleaned what ever i could on this engine as well.

Today I just finished up most of the timing components. See pictures below.

 

I spun the crank pulley around to check if there was any interference..so far so good. Does everything seem to look ok?

Tomorrow I'm going to convert the maxima tb and pick up a few more parts for the swap next weekend.

I'll be using my 5spd open dif tranny with a ACT 6 puck spring centered clutch and raxle axles.

The blower will go in later once i break in this engine =]

 

And that reminds me why we never use any of the Nissan OEM FIPG we have laying around; that **** is ugly...nothing like orange trace seeping out everywhere.

Black RTV FTW.

Looks like you're assembling well so far, though. Just remember to put that KS in before the LIM goes back on, it's a PITA otherwise (and you'll actually be able to torque it to spec...).

FWIW, never had a problem removing the main bolts with an E-torx socket and an impact.

 

Yea...I didn't realize the Nissan sealant was orange....and expensive. I'm hoping it would change color when heated.

The knock sensor I'm taking off from my 3.0. Is the knock sensor from the 3.5 the same as 3.0? I misplaced my 3.5 knock sensor =/

I'm trying to pick up a set of 350z injectors hopefully this week.

I had a problem removing the main bolts on my other 3.5 block. One of the bolts stripped...(the one with the scratch on the cylinder wall)....This engine is another engine that I got from my friend.

Well I hope I can convert the throttle body today after work =]

 

Still confused as to why almost everyone that posts pics of their assembly process installs the upper oil pan before the outer timing cover.

 

oh..i don't know =/

I had that on there to cover the bottom of the engine. there might be bugs or something at the shop that want to go in there so i installed the oil pan b4 i touched the timing components....i covered up everything else (top of engine and timing) during clean up.

 

i'll swing by later tonight after class.

 

oh ok cool. theres nothing much to be done really..just buying a few necessities and we are good to go for this weekend....oh and converting the TB..i have to source some 350z injectors..

 

oh by the way, Nissan cheaped out on the 2004 engines as well....Block, heads, oil pans, oil pump and a few others made in mexico..not japan.

 

Yeah always install the timing covers before the upper oil pan.lol
I did that once but not so lil buggies wouldnt crawl in
Everything else looks great so far
What did you tq the head bolts down to?
So you went with cosworth... whats the difference between the cometics yuh had?

 

haha owell..its done...

i dont remember the tq specs on the arp head bolts..w/e the directions said...i did it.

cosworth...its a .6mm....i went with it since i was talking to someone from slowboyracing and they were using it on their 350z single turbo. they did not go with HKS....i forgot the reason..its been awhile since i spoke to them lol.

man...i hope i didnt screw up on the valves on front of the engine...i was turning the exhaust cam before and it was stiff...i loosen the brackets up as well and it was turning slighly...i did not have the chains attached at the moment....

could i possibly bent a valve from turning the cam? it was on TDC for sure....wasn't thinking about the pistons not moving while moving the cam and valves opening/closing..

 

So I checked what I could visually. The exhaust side valves do not look bent. I will do a leak down test/ compression test to confirm if its good to go.

The throttle body is almost converted..pretty simple but need to make a bracket for the TPS.

 

OK, you caught me... but I got the front cover on and sealed up good. Blue Permatex FTMFW.

I plead tired and stupid that day.

Now the next time I'll get it right.

 

ok so i have the motor in the car for about a week ago. It wouln't start at all. Returnless fuel system set to about 51 psi.

fuel filter line to Tee, 1 side of the tee goes to the fuel damper line, and the other goes to inlet fpr. return line hooked up to the outlet of frp

I have a universal sard frp and a offbrand gauge attached to it. I dont know if i have spark or not so I would need to get some help.

Last weekend..my friend sprayed starter fluid in the tb, opening and closing the throttle while I was cranking. It doesn't turn over and it somewhat backfired?

Will, can you explain in detail what happened? I didn't see anything only heard popping noises...

 

ok so no spark...going to check out the grounds and cam/crank sensors. hopefully i can get this started..

 

oh so i checked and make sure all the grounds were good. everything is grounded...all the sensors are plugged. i cleaned out the grimmy oil on the crank sensor below the crank pulley. the cps on the block/tranny, im using the 3.5 cps and added the rubber piece today.

car would not start....i also heard some tapping/ticking noises. I did not hear that before...maybe its something else?

is it possible my timing is wrong?

my universal sard fpr might be at fault as well. the gauge that i have is an off brand gauge that i borrowed, brand new. i was trying to set the fuel psi to 51 and I can't even get it set near there. turning that nut/screw was either putting it at 30ish or 60. now i think the gauge is broken? it's stuck at 40psi even with the key out of the ignition.

any suggestions that i should check would be appreciated. i should be posting this in the all motor forum...

thanks in advance.

 

update

 

Hope you get it to start
Update?

 

ohh forgot about my old there....

here's the link to where it is now...

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...need-help.html

i should take a vid of how it sounds..

wb02 and eu needs to be installed soon since im running very rich with rev up injectors. also i only have about 475 miles on it so far.

hoping to be boosted by late aug