another rmt up and running!
another rmt up and running!
well i finished the the project....and the car is running...
however i got 440cc duetch werks and walbro 255 in with the setup....and boy is is pissin fuel in the motor....i have tried to make adjustments on the eu to compensate....but i cant seem to make any noticeablechanges....
as far as setting up the before and after injector settings...i put 239 as before and 440 as after....but i dont know what to put for duration....maybe this is y i a not able to adjust?? im using emanage ultimate....
please forgive if this is a newb question...but i feel like ive tried everything...
however i got 440cc duetch werks and walbro 255 in with the setup....and boy is is pissin fuel in the motor....i have tried to make adjustments on the eu to compensate....but i cant seem to make any noticeablechanges....
as far as setting up the before and after injector settings...i put 239 as before and 440 as after....but i dont know what to put for duration....maybe this is y i a not able to adjust?? im using emanage ultimate....
please forgive if this is a newb question...but i feel like ive tried everything...
how do i adjust the lag time? u meen duration?
as far as fuel pressure im not too sure....i dont have a fpr....
ive been holding back on posting because ima huge newb to all this...i figured i didnt need a fpr if i have the eu....
i have a couple data logs i did if anyone with eu knowledge would like to look at it...
as far as fuel pressure im not too sure....i dont have a fpr....
ive been holding back on posting because ima huge newb to all this...i figured i didnt need a fpr if i have the eu....
i have a couple data logs i did if anyone with eu knowledge would like to look at it...
I'm running the E-Manage Blue, so I'm not sure what the differences in the two are in that aspect. When I put in the 370's I was having the same issue because the greater volume that the injectors allowed would douse the plugs with fuel. Once I lowered the fuel pressure a bit, she ran like a champ. Have the other EU guys kept their factory FPR?
wow kelly finally did something big to his car, man i thought i was going to be the only one with a turbo maxima in Sac. oh well i guess now there will be 2 turbo maximas running the streets. good luck on the project, i would like to see this setup!
yea well i was thinking of pickin up an aem fpr today and setting it to 3bar.....but i figured there has to be a way to adjust the injectors with just the emanage ultimate....
any thoughts?
btw...have i ever met u? i didnt know there was a boosted max here in sac....hmmm....and u know my name....
lol
any thoughts?
btw...have i ever met u? i didnt know there was a boosted max here in sac....hmmm....and u know my name....

lol
oh im not boosted yet just waiting for my exhaust to be made and my emanage blue to finally come in.. we met WAY back in 06 i think that was the meet at Elk Grove Nissan.. i've seen The Law around but haven't seen you for a while..
hmm ok so leave the before duration at 0....i think im gettin it
would not having that setup properly cause me to be unable to make successfull adjustments?? cause i kept subtracting on the i/j map and it had no effect on my a/r....hopefully yhe lag time will allow me to tune at least lol
would not having that setup properly cause me to be unable to make successfull adjustments?? cause i kept subtracting on the i/j map and it had no effect on my a/r....hopefully yhe lag time will allow me to tune at least lol
well, i tried 1.00 and .4...
at 1.00 it seamed like it was going to stall out...and my a/f did not seem to be effected...and this is with the i/j map1 activated and subtracting 1.00 from everything from 500-3000 rpms...
i let the car idle for a few minutes till it started to get a lil warm...then took it out for a drive...the damn car is drowning! lol....
shouldnt adjustments to the EU while running the car automatically have results? thats kinda what im confused about...adjusting to .4 duration on the after side (under 440) seamed to (i think) have an effect on idle...
what exactly does the duration meen? im not really understanding the concept in contrast to the numbers im inputing...enlighten me?
at 1.00 it seamed like it was going to stall out...and my a/f did not seem to be effected...and this is with the i/j map1 activated and subtracting 1.00 from everything from 500-3000 rpms...
i let the car idle for a few minutes till it started to get a lil warm...then took it out for a drive...the damn car is drowning! lol....
shouldnt adjustments to the EU while running the car automatically have results? thats kinda what im confused about...adjusting to .4 duration on the after side (under 440) seamed to (i think) have an effect on idle...
what exactly does the duration meen? im not really understanding the concept in contrast to the numbers im inputing...enlighten me?
Are you sure you have all the lower o-rings on the injectors ?? With the uppers, it wont leak outside the fuel rail, but without the lower, you'll just be POURING fuel into your cylinders.
Try your lag set the other way around...start .7 end 1 or something like that. I forget how I have mine set but my car was the SAME WAY. Wouldnt run even with -2.00 accross the entire I/J adj. map until I got the lag time right
-matt
-matt
Try your lag set the other way around...start .7 end 1 or something like that. I forget how I have mine set but my car was the SAME WAY. Wouldnt run even with -2.00 accross the entire I/J adj. map until I got the lag time right
-matt
-matt
I dont have an EU, so I cant help you on that.
But just to give you an idea, I previously had a Walbro190 with my All Motor setup, and used it in my RMT setup for a few months. FP was set at 51psi for the 3.5 swap.
Not doing ANYTHING OTHER than changing the fuelpump to the Walbro255, fuel pressure went up to 58psi.
An increase of 7psi AT IDLE is ALOT of fuel. Especially with the RC 440s I have.
Once you get the AFPR see where the pressure is and drop it down to the lower half of 40psi, check from there, leave it in the ballpark with fuel pressure adjustment, and fine tune with the EU.
BTW, do you have a wideband to keep an eye on the A/F?
CONGRATULATIONS BTW! where are the pictures!!!!!???!?!!??!?!!?
But just to give you an idea, I previously had a Walbro190 with my All Motor setup, and used it in my RMT setup for a few months. FP was set at 51psi for the 3.5 swap.
Not doing ANYTHING OTHER than changing the fuelpump to the Walbro255, fuel pressure went up to 58psi.
An increase of 7psi AT IDLE is ALOT of fuel. Especially with the RC 440s I have.
Once you get the AFPR see where the pressure is and drop it down to the lower half of 40psi, check from there, leave it in the ballpark with fuel pressure adjustment, and fine tune with the EU.
BTW, do you have a wideband to keep an eye on the A/F?
CONGRATULATIONS BTW! where are the pictures!!!!!???!?!!??!?!!?
well there was only one set of o rings on the injectors...they just slid on from what i could remember...
im really curious as to know what your talking about with the O-rings tho...
I found that .02 lag time gave it the best idle possible...
its still dumping fuel out the tail pipe so bad i ran outa gas just idling for 10 minutes or so hahaha
i noticed that if i try to subtract 1 from the i/j map even with the lag time at .02 it run worse than if i were to only subtract .5
i guess its kinda dumb to start thinking about this but i think the problem is my lack of AFPR
any thoughts on this?
pics will be up as soon as i get this thing running right so i can get the finishing touches done at the muffler shop...i have a vibrant muffler on right now and it sounds like garbage and WAAAYYYY too loud..
Im gona try a magnaflow muffler, and if possibly even order a non louver type resonator for the b pipe (i hope it wound increase lag but i gota quiet this thing down a bit...)
Pics will be up tho i spent alota time trying to out-do streets setup

as for a/f i have a aem uego wideband so yes...
i also have oil pressure, boost and EGT
not completely wired in other than boost and a/f but they will be in as soon as i get it driveable..
im really curious as to know what your talking about with the O-rings tho...
I found that .02 lag time gave it the best idle possible...
its still dumping fuel out the tail pipe so bad i ran outa gas just idling for 10 minutes or so hahaha
i noticed that if i try to subtract 1 from the i/j map even with the lag time at .02 it run worse than if i were to only subtract .5
i guess its kinda dumb to start thinking about this but i think the problem is my lack of AFPR
any thoughts on this?
pics will be up as soon as i get this thing running right so i can get the finishing touches done at the muffler shop...i have a vibrant muffler on right now and it sounds like garbage and WAAAYYYY too loud..
Im gona try a magnaflow muffler, and if possibly even order a non louver type resonator for the b pipe (i hope it wound increase lag but i gota quiet this thing down a bit...)
Pics will be up tho i spent alota time trying to out-do streets setup

as for a/f i have a aem uego wideband so yes...
i also have oil pressure, boost and EGT

not completely wired in other than boost and a/f but they will be in as soon as i get it driveable..
Last edited by XeroX; May 23, 2008 at 11:16 PM.
an o-ring problem could be assessed by letting the car idle and spraying brake parts cleaner on the injectors at their base. If idle jumps erratically as you spray a particular injector, you have a candidate.
But you dont recall if the injectors had both upper and lower o-rings before installation? ALSO, before installation, you should have lubricated the o-rings with a thin coat of fresh motor oil, just like any o-ring or seal anywhere on the motor, did you do so? If not, pull them all and do it again. The o-rings will crack with the heat and cooling and will eventually disintegrate.
And yes having an AFPR with a gauge will make your life much easier as far as initial tuning and trouble shooting down the road, because Lord knows, with turbo, complete installation is JUST the start, now you'll have a month or two of trouble shooting til everything is working how you want it to lol, THEN you'll be enjoying it.
Another thing, and this is important, you dont happen to have you AEM EUGO's signal going into the EU right? Because that will not work. It will work on its own, but it will feed the EU a faulty reading. EU and EBs are meant to be used with linear output signal widebands such as PLX and Innovate WBs. The EUGO has a curve output so V signal isnt going to be linear, EU will have a faulty signal. If you want to keep your current WB, you may do so but ONLY to use alog with its gauge.
But you dont recall if the injectors had both upper and lower o-rings before installation? ALSO, before installation, you should have lubricated the o-rings with a thin coat of fresh motor oil, just like any o-ring or seal anywhere on the motor, did you do so? If not, pull them all and do it again. The o-rings will crack with the heat and cooling and will eventually disintegrate.
And yes having an AFPR with a gauge will make your life much easier as far as initial tuning and trouble shooting down the road, because Lord knows, with turbo, complete installation is JUST the start, now you'll have a month or two of trouble shooting til everything is working how you want it to lol, THEN you'll be enjoying it.
Another thing, and this is important, you dont happen to have you AEM EUGO's signal going into the EU right? Because that will not work. It will work on its own, but it will feed the EU a faulty reading. EU and EBs are meant to be used with linear output signal widebands such as PLX and Innovate WBs. The EUGO has a curve output so V signal isnt going to be linear, EU will have a faulty signal. If you want to keep your current WB, you may do so but ONLY to use alog with its gauge.
an o-ring problem could be assessed by letting the car idle and spraying brake parts cleaner on the injectors at their base. If idle jumps erratically as you spray a particular injector, you have a candidate.
But you dont recall if the injectors had both upper and lower o-rings before installation? ALSO, before installation, you should have lubricated the o-rings with a thin coat of fresh motor oil, just like any o-ring or seal anywhere on the motor, did you do so? If not, pull them all and do it again. The o-rings will crack with the heat and cooling and will eventually disintegrate.
And yes having an AFPR with a gauge will make your life much easier as far as initial tuning and trouble shooting down the road, because Lord knows, with turbo, complete installation is JUST the start, now you'll have a month or two of trouble shooting til everything is working how you want it to lol, THEN you'll be enjoying it.
Another thing, and this is important, you dont happen to have you AEM EUGO's signal going into the EU right? Because that will not work. It will work on its own, but it will feed the EU a faulty reading. EU and EBs are meant to be used with linear output signal widebands such as PLX and Innovate WBs. The EUGO has a curve output so V signal isnt going to be linear, EU will have a faulty signal. If you want to keep your current WB, you may do so but ONLY to use alog with its gauge.
But you dont recall if the injectors had both upper and lower o-rings before installation? ALSO, before installation, you should have lubricated the o-rings with a thin coat of fresh motor oil, just like any o-ring or seal anywhere on the motor, did you do so? If not, pull them all and do it again. The o-rings will crack with the heat and cooling and will eventually disintegrate.
And yes having an AFPR with a gauge will make your life much easier as far as initial tuning and trouble shooting down the road, because Lord knows, with turbo, complete installation is JUST the start, now you'll have a month or two of trouble shooting til everything is working how you want it to lol, THEN you'll be enjoying it.
Another thing, and this is important, you dont happen to have you AEM EUGO's signal going into the EU right? Because that will not work. It will work on its own, but it will feed the EU a faulty reading. EU and EBs are meant to be used with linear output signal widebands such as PLX and Innovate WBs. The EUGO has a curve output so V signal isnt going to be linear, EU will have a faulty signal. If you want to keep your current WB, you may do so but ONLY to use alog with its gauge.
AFPR was one thing i over looked...and i do remember two o-rings i was just confused as do what your talking about lol...
i used wd40 on the injectors not motor oil exactly...
ive installing the DEK injectors in when i did my VI...so i have the jist of how to put in injectors...and unless the duetch werks are different they should be in just fine..
as for the aem UEGO controller...it does have linear output.....on my data logs it gives me perfect readings compared with the actual gauge...i remember i researched that to do death before i got it...aem uego works just fine with the EU....
Im going to pick up and AEM AFPR today and give it a try...ill also try and test my o rings and c if thats the problem..i honestly think with a afpr most of these problems should go away haha
thanks for all the input! ill keep you guys posted with results...
And yea def. Im sure you're gonna have quite the stroy to tell of where your fuel press was to begin with, what you did to it, and how its running after, etc... trouble shooting! the fun part of b00st!
o0o0o0, well thats a new peice of info right there. If you say it works and its comparable to the gauge's readings, o0o0o!!! :-D good info!
And yea def. Im sure you're gonna have quite the stroy to tell of where your fuel press was to begin with, what you did to it, and how its running after, etc... trouble shooting! the fun part of b00st!
And yea def. Im sure you're gonna have quite the stroy to tell of where your fuel press was to begin with, what you did to it, and how its running after, etc... trouble shooting! the fun part of b00st!

there is a store over here that has an aeromotive AFPR with the gauge for like 190...kinda more than i wanted to spend but i need to get this car running properly..
My main concern is how to gut the oem FPR so that i can install the aeromotive..
I know they sell a fitting on sx7's site...but im trying to do this today...and i know you can gut the oem one...just how do you do it?
lol yea seriously...
there is a store over here that has an aeromotive AFPR with the gauge for like 190...kinda more than i wanted to spend but i need to get this car running properly..
My main concern is how to gut the oem FPR so that i can install the aeromotive..
I know they sell a fitting on sx7's site...but im trying to do this today...and i know you can gut the oem one...just how do you do it?
there is a store over here that has an aeromotive AFPR with the gauge for like 190...kinda more than i wanted to spend but i need to get this car running properly..
My main concern is how to gut the oem FPR so that i can install the aeromotive..
I know they sell a fitting on sx7's site...but im trying to do this today...and i know you can gut the oem one...just how do you do it?
yea i hope the aeromotive im bout to pick up has those parts...if not i guess ill just have to drill out the oem FPR till i get the sx7 fitting...i had to buy one last time for my VI install but thats on the other side of the fuel rail lol....arrgghh...
anyone know if the aeromotive fpr comes with the fuel rail fitting?
anyone know if the aeromotive fpr comes with the fuel rail fitting?
*Base pressure (vacuum/boost disconnected) adjustable from 30 to 70 PSI.
*Two -10 AN inlet ports, one -6 AN return port and 1/8" NPT gauge port
*Beautifully finished with type II bright dip red and black anodized coatings.
*Alcohol compatible.
*Fuel Pressure will rise on a 1:1 ratio when referencing boost.
*Fittings Sold Separately
According to ebay
*Two -10 AN inlet ports, one -6 AN return port and 1/8" NPT gauge port
*Beautifully finished with type II bright dip red and black anodized coatings.
*Alcohol compatible.
*Fuel Pressure will rise on a 1:1 ratio when referencing boost.
*Fittings Sold Separately
According to ebay
yea i read that after i posted lol.
well i went to go pick up a aeromotive AFPR cause they had one in stock at a store here...but then i came and the system was wrong.. but they did have a powerflow AFPR that was cheaper anyways...so i got that with a autometer gauge
im gona attempt to install it...looks simple enough i just cant really figure out what to do with the 3rd hole...? i gota plug for it...i figured u just need inlet and return line...
well i went to go pick up a aeromotive AFPR cause they had one in stock at a store here...but then i came and the system was wrong.. but they did have a powerflow AFPR that was cheaper anyways...so i got that with a autometer gauge

im gona attempt to install it...looks simple enough i just cant really figure out what to do with the 3rd hole...? i gota plug for it...i figured u just need inlet and return line...
Update:
Well i installed the AFPR and just started the max right now...
no more hard starting problem...idle has settled down CONSIDERABLY...overall throttle response is nearly perfect...
The FPR was suposed to be set at 40psi...i didnt make any adjustments...but im getting a readying of about 38 psi? im going to try to make some adjustments on the emanage with that fuel pressure and see what happens...
I was told to have the fuel pressure set at around 36? or should i just leave it at ~38psi?
Well i installed the AFPR and just started the max right now...
no more hard starting problem...idle has settled down CONSIDERABLY...overall throttle response is nearly perfect...
The FPR was suposed to be set at 40psi...i didnt make any adjustments...but im getting a readying of about 38 psi? im going to try to make some adjustments on the emanage with that fuel pressure and see what happens...
I was told to have the fuel pressure set at around 36? or should i just leave it at ~38psi?
hmm thought it was 36..
lol...well, im officially givin up on it tonight...the plugs are completely fouled...
my dumb azz input -9 on the emanage haha......flooded the motor BAD...took out the plugs cleaned em up and put em back in...its started back up again...then completely turned my garage into the black sea of gasoline...then of course i did it again (-9 stupid typo lol)...the plugs are completely toast i need new ones cause the idle is horrible again...
is the difference between 36 psi and 34 at idle a huge difference?
lol...well, im officially givin up on it tonight...the plugs are completely fouled...
my dumb azz input -9 on the emanage haha......flooded the motor BAD...took out the plugs cleaned em up and put em back in...its started back up again...then completely turned my garage into the black sea of gasoline...then of course i did it again (-9 stupid typo lol)...the plugs are completely toast i need new ones cause the idle is horrible again...
is the difference between 36 psi and 34 at idle a huge difference?
im gona go put some new plugs in it right now and see if at least it starts idling decent again....sigh...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
UPDATE:
Well i got new plugs in and it seams to be idling a little better now...
I also re-installed the injectors using motor oil on the o-rings, they were already well lubricated with the wd-40 i used before, i tested them with TB cleaner for leaks...NOTHING...so its not the o-rings...
I turned down the fuel pressure to 34psi...and i still cant seem to lean this thing out...this is starting to become a big pain..gas is still pouring out from the exhaust...
Last edited by XeroX; May 26, 2008 at 04:19 PM.
With no corrections in the EU from 240 (or whatever size stop 3.0 DE uses) to your 440cc injectors. You would need to turn the fp down at idle even more. If you were using a z32 maf of stock maf in 3" housing then you can leave the fp at 34psi. I think you would need closer to 30psi for it to be good as you stand right now. However, since you have the EU, I believe there is a function for injector scaling for larger injectors.
yea its still pouring out really bad...im running my stock maf...
im gona go put some new plugs in it right now and see if at least it starts idling decent again....sigh...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
UPDATE:
Well i got new plugs in and it seams to be idling a little better now...
I also re-installed the injectors using motor oil on the o-rings, they were already well lubricated with the wd-40 i used before, i tested them with TB cleaner for leaks...NOTHING...so its not the o-rings...
I turned down the fuel pressure to 34psi...and i still cant seem to lean this thing out...this is starting to become a big pain..gas is still pouring out from the exhaust...
im gona go put some new plugs in it right now and see if at least it starts idling decent again....sigh...
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
UPDATE:
Well i got new plugs in and it seams to be idling a little better now...
I also re-installed the injectors using motor oil on the o-rings, they were already well lubricated with the wd-40 i used before, i tested them with TB cleaner for leaks...NOTHING...so its not the o-rings...
I turned down the fuel pressure to 34psi...and i still cant seem to lean this thing out...this is starting to become a big pain..gas is still pouring out from the exhaust...
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=562916
With no corrections in the EU from 240 (or whatever size stop 3.0 DE uses) to your 440cc injectors. You would need to turn the fp down at idle even more. If you were using a z32 maf of stock maf in 3" housing then you can leave the fp at 34psi. I think you would need closer to 30psi for it to be good as you stand right now. However, since you have the EU, I believe there is a function for injector scaling for larger injectors.
I turned the pressure down as low as 28psi...still had no effect on a/f...
Should i just keep dropping the FP till i start getting some kind of effect on my a/f? Im really frustrated with this...and i think im killing all my brain cells with all these damn gas fumes

as for a upgraded maf...im not going that route right now...there has to be something i can do to get my setup to function without geting a bigger MAF....




