Emanage Ultimate Help
07-30-2008, 04:50 PM
#1
Emanage Ultimate Help
Need some help guys. Allright a couple months agomy emanage got stolen and I just recently bough a new one from someone and installed it today. Since my injectors are 555 i got the car to start but it idles for about 1 min or less and dies down and im thinking its due to engine being flooded. Also when it idles and i try to give it gas it automatically shuts down and I also think thats because of the injectors flooding the sparks. Can anyone help me around this and maybe show me what maps i need to adjust just to get the car started so I can move it onto the frame machine so I can start working in it. Thanks guys. I followed dandy max instructions but I think I need a little more than what he has to get this thing running a little.
07-31-2008, 12:43 AM
#3
Im a little confused on how to do that. But the thing is does the Idle Controll map work in UE for the maximas? I figured I might be able to adjust some things there to get the idle down and not flood the engine. This sucks.....i need to figure this out as I need to get the car on the frame machine.
07-31-2008, 06:01 AM
#4
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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Posts: 10,166
I use the water temp map during the winter for cold starts, but after a minute you should already be warmed up enough where they wouldnt come into play. If your cars flooding right when you touch your gas it may be lag time. Play around with the "LAG" setting. Its under the I/J Adjusment tab and see if that helps at all.
-matt
-matt
07-31-2008, 05:57 PM
#6
The lag might help also but some have not seemed to need to do that, while others (like Matty) say it helps... you'll have to find out for yourself.
The idle control map in the EU isn't useful, as it can't control a stepper motor IACV.
For the water temp map, you have to work fairly quickly as the car is warming up. Start the car and check the water temp as displayed on the logger, then under the appropriate cell in the water temp (fuel) map take out some fuel until the idle smooths out. Continue to let the engine warm up and if it starts losing the smoothness then repeat the process at the next (a little warmer) temp. You should find that as the temperatures get warmer the numbers will get smaller.
If the car is fully warm and the idle is still rough, then you can try the i/j lag setting or just pull fuel on the main I/J map in the cells that apply to idle (top left corner of the map generally)
The idle control map in the EU isn't useful, as it can't control a stepper motor IACV.
For the water temp map, you have to work fairly quickly as the car is warming up. Start the car and check the water temp as displayed on the logger, then under the appropriate cell in the water temp (fuel) map take out some fuel until the idle smooths out. Continue to let the engine warm up and if it starts losing the smoothness then repeat the process at the next (a little warmer) temp. You should find that as the temperatures get warmer the numbers will get smaller.
If the car is fully warm and the idle is still rough, then you can try the i/j lag setting or just pull fuel on the main I/J map in the cells that apply to idle (top left corner of the map generally)
08-02-2008, 06:05 AM
#7
does anyone on here have a basic starting map for the 555 injectors? Something that I can use as a reference to get started so I can speed up the process a bit faster because my dads boss says that my car is taking up room on his lot and i gotta get it fixed asap so i gotta get it started.
08-02-2008, 02:41 PM
#8
If the injectors are putting out too much fuel and you have an afpr, just lower the fuel pressure to around 25 and see if it will start, other than that, the emanage should scale down the injectors. There shouldn't really be anything to change on the airflow map if that is what you are referring to. After you make the lag time and injector size hit apply.
08-03-2008, 07:00 AM
#10
does anyone on here have a basic starting map for the 555 injectors? Something that I can use as a reference to get started so I can speed up the process a bit faster because my dads boss says that my car is taking up room on his lot and i gotta get it fixed asap so i gotta get it started.
If someone sends you a base map, could you shoot it to me as well?
Would help speed things up having a base map to make changes from vs. starting from nothing and trying to go from there.
08-03-2008, 10:26 AM
#12
I know on the blue you couldn't do 290 to 555, you had to do 370 to 555 or whatever other higher cc. Don't know if they fixed that on the ultimate but it's worth a shot to try.
08-03-2008, 11:29 PM
#14
08-05-2008, 09:13 AM
#17
maxima.org has always made me laugh, yesterday a guy had a tt gto and took his battery out and lost his software flash for some reason and someone drove 200+ miles to give him a starter tune so he can drive his car to work.
we need love like that around here. If i had a tune i would give it to you. Once i put my EU on ill just start posting what ever files i get online someplace for this very reason
we need love like that around here. If i had a tune i would give it to you. Once i put my EU on ill just start posting what ever files i get online someplace for this very reason
08-05-2008, 09:23 AM
#18
maxima.org has always made me laugh, yesterday a guy had a tt gto and took his battery out and lost his software flash for some reason and someone drove 200+ miles to give him a starter tune so he can drive his car to work.
we need love like that around here. If i had a tune i would give it to you. Once i put my EU on ill just start posting what ever files i get online someplace for this very reason
we need love like that around here. If i had a tune i would give it to you. Once i put my EU on ill just start posting what ever files i get online someplace for this very reason
Although I blame myself a bit for going this route and not knowing anything about tuning and etc. but I honestly didnt think it I would be down for this long. I figured with the others running similair setups it would be easy to get a base map to get the car up and running and then use my local source to do the driveable tune and then to the dyno for the fine tune.
08-05-2008, 07:12 PM
#21
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...-lag-time.html
Check second post
http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...p-running.html
Check 18th post.
Check second post
http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...p-running.html
Check 18th post.
08-05-2008, 07:12 PM
#22
Lag time is 6.4 for both before and after.
Be sure to use the Water Temp Adj. Map as well.
Be sure to use the Water Temp Adj. Map as well.
08-05-2008, 07:16 PM
#23
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...-lag-time.html
Check second post
http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...p-running.html
Check 18th post.
Check second post
http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...p-running.html
Check 18th post.
08-06-2008, 07:22 AM
#24
I agree.
Although I blame myself a bit for going this route and not knowing anything about tuning and etc. but I honestly didnt think it I would be down for this long. I figured with the others running similair setups it would be easy to get a base map to get the car up and running and then use my local source to do the driveable tune and then to the dyno for the fine tune.
Although I blame myself a bit for going this route and not knowing anything about tuning and etc. but I honestly didnt think it I would be down for this long. I figured with the others running similair setups it would be easy to get a base map to get the car up and running and then use my local source to do the driveable tune and then to the dyno for the fine tune.
http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...-lag-time.html
Check second post
http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...p-running.html
Check 18th post.
Check second post
http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...p-running.html
Check 18th post.
good job man...
08-20-2008, 12:51 AM
#26
all right, i got the car started and it idles pretty decent but a few problems.
1- car wont go past 2500 just bounces off the 2500 line like the 2 step is setup which I had with the previous emanage. I think thats about it. Oh also the lag injection time when you increase it by .5 the higher the number is the more its lagged correct? And there are no negative numbers. Any ideas on the 2500 thing? Ill post pics of my maps tiomorrow after work.
1- car wont go past 2500 just bounces off the 2500 line like the 2 step is setup which I had with the previous emanage. I think thats about it. Oh also the lag injection time when you increase it by .5 the higher the number is the more its lagged correct? And there are no negative numbers. Any ideas on the 2500 thing? Ill post pics of my maps tiomorrow after work.
08-20-2008, 11:23 AM
#29
Got my car to start and idle. Set the lag time to 0.20msec before and 1.00msec after.
Car idles really high and is still really rich. Also having issues with the TPS voltage. Can never get the recommended 5volts. Not sure what thats about but Ive swapped out TPS's and got the same results.
Thinking about pulling the EU out going back to the JWT with the 370's and saving up some cash to just drop it off at a shop and let them do it.
I was quoted 300.00 to dyno tune the EU, iand f for some reason they have to rewire everything then an additional 200.00
Car idles really high and is still really rich. Also having issues with the TPS voltage. Can never get the recommended 5volts. Not sure what thats about but Ive swapped out TPS's and got the same results.
Thinking about pulling the EU out going back to the JWT with the 370's and saving up some cash to just drop it off at a shop and let them do it.
I was quoted 300.00 to dyno tune the EU, iand f for some reason they have to rewire everything then an additional 200.00
08-20-2008, 04:16 PM
#31
08-21-2008, 07:32 AM
#35
TPS is usually a tap...
MAF can be intercepted... if you're not going up past 2500 rpm that definitley sounds like the MAF, but check your wiring, if you intercepted the MAF and reversed the IN/OUT lines that's what will result.
MAF can be intercepted... if you're not going up past 2500 rpm that definitley sounds like the MAF, but check your wiring, if you intercepted the MAF and reversed the IN/OUT lines that's what will result.
08-21-2008, 08:00 AM
#37
The main reason to intercept the TPS would be to force the ECU to stay in open loop by feeding it a high
TPS signal. However, note that in this case you must connect the sensor to the EU analog input/output
lines rather than the dedicated TPS line. There really is no need to do this on a naturally aspirated (N/A)
Maxima, so for most installations the TPS can just be tapped.
TPS signal. However, note that in this case you must connect the sensor to the EU analog input/output
lines rather than the dedicated TPS line. There really is no need to do this on a naturally aspirated (N/A)
Maxima, so for most installations the TPS can just be tapped.
Now when I had it tapped, I would only get about .8v, max would be around 1.2 or something low like that.
It also would only see throttle position at either 100% or 0, it would never display it in between even if I was at half or a quarter throttle. Once I intercepted it, the throttle position readings began working and I could see it flucuate but never see full voltage.
This is how I have it wired now,
From the engine harness to the Analog Input of the EU,
From the Analog Output of the EU to the ECU.
Last edited by Flava_24/7; 08-21-2008 at 11:33 AM.
08-21-2008, 11:41 AM
#39
If I just tap it like it was originally TPS doesnt read right.
Im really ready to just say screw it and go back to the JWT. Ive already dumped so much money into trying to go with the EU and still havent gotten anywhere.