Need some help guys. Allright a couple months agomy emanage got stolen and I just recently bough a new one from someone and installed it today. Since my injectors are 555 i got the car to start but it idles for about 1 min or less and dies down and im thinking its due to engine being flooded. Also when it idles and i try to give it gas it automatically shuts down and I also think thats because of the injectors flooding the sparks. Can anyone help me around this and maybe show me what maps i need to adjust just to get the car started so I can move it onto the frame machine so I can start working in it. Thanks guys. I followed dandy max instructions but I think I need a little more than what he has to get this thing running a little.

 

Is this a cold start? You probably need to pull some fuel on the water temp map. Also, hold the throttle open when starting the car...

 

Im a little confused on how to do that. But the thing is does the Idle Controll map work in UE for the maximas? I figured I might be able to adjust some things there to get the idle down and not flood the engine. This sucks.....i need to figure this out as I need to get the car on the frame machine.

 

I use the water temp map during the winter for cold starts, but after a minute you should already be warmed up enough where they wouldnt come into play. If your cars flooding right when you touch your gas it may be lag time. Play around with the "LAG" setting. Its under the I/J Adjusment tab and see if that helps at all.

-matt

 

but my wquestion is the map is empty right now how do i get the base numbers down so I can adjust them because I have no idea what they are supposed to be right off the bat.

 

The lag might help also but some have not seemed to need to do that, while others (like Matty) say it helps... you'll have to find out for yourself.

The idle control map in the EU isn't useful, as it can't control a stepper motor IACV.

For the water temp map, you have to work fairly quickly as the car is warming up. Start the car and check the water temp as displayed on the logger, then under the appropriate cell in the water temp (fuel) map take out some fuel until the idle smooths out. Continue to let the engine warm up and if it starts losing the smoothness then repeat the process at the next (a little warmer) temp. You should find that as the temperatures get warmer the numbers will get smaller.

If the car is fully warm and the idle is still rough, then you can try the i/j lag setting or just pull fuel on the main I/J map in the cells that apply to idle (top left corner of the map generally)

 

does anyone on here have a basic starting map for the 555 injectors? Something that I can use as a reference to get started so I can speed up the process a bit faster because my dads boss says that my car is taking up room on his lot and i gotta get it fixed asap so i gotta get it started.

 

If the injectors are putting out too much fuel and you have an afpr, just lower the fuel pressure to around 25 and see if it will start, other than that, the emanage should scale down the injectors. There shouldn't really be anything to change on the airflow map if that is what you are referring to. After you make the lag time and injector size hit apply.

 

are you talking about under the i/j tab ? i have the i/j size 290 before 555 after but I dont know the lag times that are under neath

 

Im in the same situation. My car has been sitting in my friends driveway for about three weeks now.
If someone sends you a base map, could you shoot it to me as well?
Would help speed things up having a base map to make changes from vs. starting from nothing and trying to go from there.

 

Yeah if I get one ill make sure to send one your way but i dont know either people dont have the maps or dont wanna give them up for one reason or another.

 

I know on the blue you couldn't do 290 to 555, you had to do 370 to 555 or whatever other higher cc. Don't know if they fixed that on the ultimate but it's worth a shot to try.

 

yeah in the ultimate you can put any numbers in under that tab, i dont think it was 290 i out but 259 just messed up but anyone know the lag on the fuel injectors by any chance?

 

I know on my blue i can put the 290 to 550 injectors .

 

i dont understand why someone just didnt give him a base map to use and get his car moving...

 

Thank you ^^^^^^^^ thats all im asking for lol.

 

maxima.org has always made me laugh, yesterday a guy had a tt gto and took his battery out and lost his software flash for some reason and someone drove 200+ miles to give him a starter tune so he can drive his car to work.

we need love like that around here. If i had a tune i would give it to you. Once i put my EU on ill just start posting what ever files i get online someplace for this very reason

 

I agree.
Although I blame myself a bit for going this route and not knowing anything about tuning and etc. but I honestly didnt think it I would be down for this long. I figured with the others running similair setups it would be easy to get a base map to get the car up and running and then use my local source to do the driveable tune and then to the dyno for the fine tune.

 

Well there's not alot of people with boosted/eu setups.

I got an EU tune for a 3.5 with 440's :/

 

I mean does anyone even have a the base map for i/j lag for stock injectors so I can at least start filling out the graph with the stock injector lag and go from there.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...-lag-time.html
Check second post
http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...p-running.html
Check 18th post.

 

This is what the Wizard sent me in regards to running the 555's,.

 

Thanks for the references I willl try that out and see what happens.

 

thats the org for you, everyone is afraid to share or something..
when i get my EU on i will be coming to you for help....and if i dont get it i will strong arm you all over nyc



good job man...

 

yeah once im up and running ill post my maps on here i dont care for sharing anyhting with anyone just the way i am.

 

all right, i got the car started and it idles pretty decent but a few problems.
1- car wont go past 2500 just bounces off the 2500 line like the 2 step is setup which I had with the previous emanage. I think thats about it. Oh also the lag injection time when you increase it by .5 the higher the number is the more its lagged correct? And there are no negative numbers. Any ideas on the 2500 thing? Ill post pics of my maps tiomorrow after work.

 

MAF????

 

Def sounds like maf, check your wiring and cel's

 

Got my car to start and idle. Set the lag time to 0.20msec before and 1.00msec after.
Car idles really high and is still really rich. Also having issues with the TPS voltage. Can never get the recommended 5volts. Not sure what thats about but Ive swapped out TPS's and got the same results.
Thinking about pulling the EU out going back to the JWT with the 370's and saving up some cash to just drop it off at a shop and let them do it.
I was quoted 300.00 to dyno tune the EU, iand f for some reason they have to rewire everything then an additional 200.00

 

TPS max V for me is like 4.x, it won't get to 5.

Lag time you have to play with, you can ask the people who made the injectors.

 

Yeah i read that before, but I cant even get it to 4v without the car running.

 

can you post a ecu diagram. and the pinouts for the ultimate?

 

You tap the correct tps wire?

 

It said to intercept it, but Im pretty sure.
Followed Danymax's instructions.

 

TPS is usually a tap...

MAF can be intercepted... if you're not going up past 2500 rpm that definitley sounds like the MAF, but check your wiring, if you intercepted the MAF and reversed the IN/OUT lines that's what will result.

 

See the link to the writeup in my sig... everything is in there.

 

Now Im really confused, I was going by this..

This is where Im getting the TPS signal from, same location on both ends of the harness..


Now when I had it tapped, I would only get about .8v, max would be around 1.2 or something low like that.
It also would only see throttle position at either 100% or 0, it would never display it in between even if I was at half or a quarter throttle. Once I intercepted it, the throttle position readings began working and I could see it flucuate but never see full voltage.

This is how I have it wired now,
From the engine harness to the Analog Input of the EU,
From the Analog Output of the EU to the ECU.

 

Car is gonna run wierd in open loop all the time, the 3-4 people i know with boost and EU all installed it normally and it works fine.

 

Then Im at a loss, I dont know what to think then.
If I just tap it like it was originally TPS doesnt read right.
Im really ready to just say screw it and go back to the JWT. Ive already dumped so much money into trying to go with the EU and still havent gotten anywhere.

 

Hit me up on AIM. kevlo911

lets see if we can figure somethin out