Looking for info from Maxmaxima and other couple of guys familiar with 3rd gen and z31 VG designs/issues. 1989 Maxima with VG30ET swap. Engine is the "A" block with short crank snout and single woodruff key. Of course I am using the "W" or newer engine/Maxima crank pulley.

I have run this set up for awhile now. I am currently in the process of installing a new oil pump and found the crank bolt to be a little too loose for my taste and found some wear on the woodruff key. This tells me the bolt was loose and possibly caused some vibration which began to damage the key. FYI, the key was new when installed, maybe less than 1k miles ago.

Question: Is there an adaptor for using the newer crank pulley ("W") on the older crank ("A")?

I found a "spacer" for using the OLDER crank pulley on the NEWER (longer) crank so that all the belts align (Nissan part #12308). However, I could find nothing for what I need to illiminate vibration/wobble/bolt loosening issues with my set up/combination. Thanks for help in advance!

 

i just cut the snout off and used the bolt to the crank. i believe there are 2 diff bolt sizes 24 and 27mm. and one is longer than the other.

but yeah you can cut it and itl be fine or use some washers,......if you can find any.

btw i put my "a" crank on my "w" motor.

 

LOL! I appreciate the help, but have no clue what you just said. The only part I undestood was you put your A crank on W motor.

So, basically you are saying you did the opposite what I have done. You have installed the crank pulley from the older VG's found in 2nd gen Maxima (more closely resembles z31 crank pulley...correct?) onto a newer VG crank (which is longer). In that case, Nissan sells a spacer which allows the use of the older pulley on the newer crank. Thanks, but that doesn't help my situation.

I am trying to make sure no future problems with installing a newer crank pulley (from 3rd gen Maxima W or "modified" block - long snout) onto an older VG crank shaft which has the short snout. The result in my situation is that there is a significant space between the end of the crank and the end of the crank pulley where the bolt holds tension. This gap (I hypothesize) allows for possible crank pulley wobble which alloys the bolt to loosen.

If there is nothing out there, I just plan to fabricate a peice of steal the diameter of the crank and drill through the center of it the diameter of the bolt. I will make sure the length of the steal is just slightly shorter than the end of the crank pulley.....this should support the bolt, help stabalize the crank pulley, and illiminate potential for the bolt to loosen.

I am hoping something like this is already available! I would hate if I could not fabricate, to have to cut the end off one of my good "W" block crank shafts!

 

Update: Cut the end off an extra Vg "W" (extended) crank I had around. Also modified a thin peice of metal to use as a shim...making the inner opening smaller on the crank end I cut off. I did this to place the crank bolt closer to the inner wall of the crank end peice. I've also added a woodruff key to this. I also plan to use some LockTight on the bolt to make sure it stays put/tight. Additionally, I'm going to use a stock Nissan woodruff key as opposed to an AutoZone one. The one I pulled had been "chewed" and I believe becuase it is not strong enough for a crank application.

 

sounds like you found a solution.

 

yea, sounds like a decent solution.. definatey use the nissan key and also the lock tight. hope it all works out for you.

Jeremy