So, this is something that has so much debate its not even funny. There is a famous article saying you should run the car hard (what it was built for), then there's others saying you should baby it.

I wanna hear what you guys have to say about this, because I truly dont know what to go with as far as breaking in my motor.








Discuss......

 

Hard. Cause if something is gonna break you want to know about it in your garage, before you have to tow it back from the track....IMO of course

 

Well thats not really the topic, im talking about breaking in the engine properly for rings to sit, etc..

 

Hard. Friend with GTO went down his street and did a quick WOT pull through the first three gears. Let it rest for 15, warmed it back up and then repeated the runs another 2 times. Then he drove it normally for 3k miles, changed oil and it was done. Most of my friend's with built cars have done it in a similar way, be it on the street or on the dyno. But all swear by breaking the engine in hard.

 

I say breaking it in hard to seat the rings, etc. There is so much discussion/controversery over it i honestly couldnt tell you. Both sides kinda seem like they could go either way, but for me, i think breaking it in hard is the right way.

Id like to see what some of the more knowledgeable members have to say about this!

 

Not exactly beating on it, but ive followed this procedure for 3-4 engines and had great success with it.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

great info

 

I'd baby it for 500 miles or so. And change your oil early the first time. It may not be necessary but why not? You'll have plenty of time to beat on her later.

 

talk to your engine builder about how he wants it broken in. he's the one that's got to warranty the work, so do it how he likes it.

personally (and how my engine builders have always told me as well...)

Let them run slow for the first few minutes up to operating temp to make sure nothing's going to fall apart and there are no leaks.
then get it out on the track or long highway stretch and run it in 3rd or 4th gear up to about 4000rpm.. let off and coast back down to 1500 or 2000. do it again.
do it at 4000 about 10 times, then 5000, 5500, 6000, and continue every 500rpm up to redline.
when you're done, it's broken in. drive it home, let it cool down, and change the oil.

 

i would assume you only do 4000rpm 10 times? Not rev 10 times? Just want to be sure....cause i like your method as well as the one linked best....breaking it in too easy does seem to be a little off and i've come acreoss a lot of people that like to break it in hard...should be interesting since i'll be breaking in the clutch at the same time though.

 

my engine builder told my it's ok to get on it alittle but not to beat the crap of the motor for a few hundred miles

now if said hyd flat tappet motors require a different process

 

Don't we have flat-tappet motors ?? Cam lobes beat on top of bucket which pushes down valve - just no pushrods... ???

My breakin method - start it up, warm it up, go out and drive for 10 miles or so. If everything sounds normal, start driving it hard NA then harder then hit fuel-cut a few times, then go spray it 75-shot to start, then 175-shot to finish off the day.

If it's still running, you've got a winner! Change the oil. If not, start over.

 

I know, what I was trying to say is those motors have a different break in process

 

Flat tappet motors (aka VQ's) only require cam break-in procedures if the cams are brand new. It mainly consists of neutral revving the engine at 3000-4000 for about 10-15 minutes or so. Counterproductive when it comes to ring seating so I'd choose actually driving it over this.

 

Agreed - Lots of new-cam lube is indicated here..... Crane Cam's Assembly Lube compound has signed up for duty here.

 

That first oil change is very important as well.

 

Yup - I change every 500 miles, and use Mobil1 10-30W EP. Fresh Mobil1 filter as well. Of course, I don't put a lot of highway miles on the '99.

 

Upgrade to German Castrol or Amsoil
Your motor will thank you later

 

i would baby it and use this
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_m...1&categoryID=1
or just redline oil drive it like 3500 miles let the piston ring seal in then let it ripp

 

Picked up the block today, the resurfacing looks awesome, he also re-honed it because he said i was going to have problems with the way the previous guy honed the cylinders. everything looks good, crank is balanced, also balanced the pulley (drilled a lil bit on it to balance it out i guess).

I asked him what he suggested as far as break in, he told me to get "Comp Cams Engine Break-In Oil Additive" because it includes zinc that now days off the shelf oils do not have (by law, since zinc affects the catalytic converters). Said to drive it normal, dont baby it, but dont beat on it either, just drive. and use that additive in every oil change, or get Joe Gibbs oil because they still have zinc in it.

So now that I look it up, looks very similar to the redline additive, which to use? lol ahh decisions.

 

Whatever is cheaper


Or my fav oil:
AMSOIL and Break In on New and Rebuilt Engines

Q. I heard that new cars require a break in period with petroleum before you switch them to synthetic. How long should this break in period be?

A. AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oil can be used during break-in trouble free. In fact, vehicles such as Dodge Viper and Chevrolet Corvette come factory filled with synthetic oil.

Since most new vehicles come filled with petroleum oil, it only makes good sense to change to AMSOIL at the first scheduled oil change interval. New engine components generate high levels of wear metals and can contain contaminants from assembly. By allowing the engine to operate with the petroleum oil until the first oil/filter change interval, the wear metals and contaminants are removed prior to installing AMSOIL.

 

Any particular reason you can't start with a synthetic on a new engine and change oil after the first 1000 miles? ( or 500 miles, in my case).

Thumbs-up on the Comp Cams zinc additive - I'm gonna use Crane Cams camshaft break-in lube - for the same reason - lots of zinc and other good stuff.

 

these vehicles also have their motor broken in at the factory

they do not suggest synthetic cause of the molecules they are made of are so much smaller than standard oil

 

ok just a fyi I was talking to my engine builder about how does he suggest breaking in the engine and what oil to use. he said I can use desil oil, a additive or something with zinc start it up do not let it idle, run it at around 1500-2000rpms for 10-15mins to break in the cam. Then let the engine cool down drain the oil and filter and fill her back up and drive it. He told me to just drive, don't beat on it or baby it but just drive it and wait a few hundred miles before I start hitting it with nitrous

remember guys I am talking about a newer roller sbc 355 with a 250shot but I do not think much would change for a maxima