Saw smoke coming from under hood, pulled over and see the trans dripping fluid in the area between the trans and the engine. Heard a few clunks when I was pulling over. Trans works fine though, maybe it's the TQ converter.

 

Um, I dropped the pan for the third time in the past 4 months and 30k miles and it got worse and worse each time. Zoom in on the magnets.



Oh, that ain't right.

Guess it only made it so far because I babied it, had amsoil synthetic atf and had a cooler.


But not to worry, got 10 qts. of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF coupled with this cooler should be nice. Can't wait to wire up the DR mod too. SC oil feed line T-fitting should be in friday. WTF, I didn't know there were british NPT fittings.

Thanks to my boys adam and josh I got the trans out and swapped my new solenoids over and stopped there for the day.

 

The pin in pic #2 above is from the diff. So that's what that damn squeaking, squealing, knocking, and clanking noise was when I turned right that started a week ago. I thought it was the suspension but every time I took off my wheel to check I couldn't' see diddly squat wrong lol.


Got the trans in today, going to finish tomorrow. I hate how slow **** goes when you do it the first time around.


Still doing pretty good on time though. Blew up sat, drove it home, dunno how lol. Mon sourced trans. Tues removed trans and today put in the new one. Dunno how I drove this thing for half a year. I mean I did baby it but I still ripped on it hard but I would ease into it. Only once I was rolling and slowly rolled onto the throttle.
Can't ****ing wait for friday! Boost!

 

I'm using the K&N model F035A4 for a filter and it works fine. I'm in the same situation you are I didn't relocate any of that stuff either. you can see the filter in my sig pictures.

 

Your setup looks really nice. I'm going to make a cai for the sc and want to stick a huge filter in the fender. Do you have a DR mod?

 

Buddy's TRD Solara.

Relocating alarm horn.

Alternator bolt prepped for grinding.

Grinding alt. bolt.

How it looks after grinding.

 

What I found in my trans.

Something blowed up real nice.

These magents were cleaned a few months ago.

 

New trans. Supposedly from a '99 w/ 86k miles. Exactly like mine. Presumed to be rebuilt and when I took off the pan to swap solenoids I saw numbers written on the filter screen so I think someone was in there.

This piece is from the diff

And I still drove it home while it was bleeding to death.

Everyone helping out.

Trans. out.

 

Putting on drain back plate.

Better than new.

Works!

 

nope..I have the transgo reprogramming kit

 

CT Ferrari

Almost fits.

 

your supercharge is clocked in the wrong direction that funny 90 degree at the supercharge is so it will clear the headlight so it should be pointed down about 45 degrees from what it is

 

Thanks. When I first got it in there the outlet was facing straight down. That was my first test fit after removing the housing and rotating it. I'm going to try again mon. The charge pipe looks like a pain to fit.

 

its not clocked "wrong". some people reclock them on purpose to eliminate that small bend in the charge pipe. notice how your pipe doesnt have that bend in it, like buttonhook's sig (the stillen charge pipe). with his pipe you clock it like he says. in fact, i think if you try to clock it back to "normal" the charge pipe may not even fit there cuz of the radiator fans, etc. its was probably done that way on purpose.

 

He's right there's nothing really "wrong" with it except it doesn't work with your set up. The only reason I said it was clocked wrong is because it is hitting something (hood) or something so you need to either reclock the supercharger, rework the pipes or both either way your going to refit some pipes i guess..

 

ohh ok, i didnt catch that it was hitting something. in that case, yeah.

 

I also didnt see where he stated it was hitting.
But by looking at the charge pipe, the scroll will have to stay in that position in order to use it. It appears someone cut the angled section off and JB welded a straight end piece on.
Clearance should be fine, many use a 3" charge pipe and are clocked in that same manner. If anything is hitting, its the BOV which can be fixed by simply rotating the charge pipe a bit so that the BOV is closer to the spark plug cover. If it were me, Id replace the Stillen 90 with a normal 90 that didnt have that funky flattened corner.

 

I'm using what I've got first to make it work and then I'll change it to improve the setup later. I've got an 00VI and intercooler sitting here. What you see is what I received when I bought it. Someone cut that angle off the stillen pipe therefore forcing me to modify the pipe more to make it fit. I got it to fit nicely yesterday but I had to remove the valve cover brackets and about an inch from the elbow for the TB. Didn't take any pics though. So the blower/bracket fits and the charge piping fits. What's next, installing the fuel setup? Gotta look up diagrams etc. cuz I have no idea what I'm doing. I need to install the FMU and FPR. I don't have a fuel rail adapter yet, should I hollow out the stock FPR? I was waiting to buy one because I didn't know what I was going to do with the 00VI fuel rail but it looks the same as the DE fuel rail. Also, the a/c compressor pulley bearing is missing half it's ball bearings I'm thinking due to a leaking CPS o-ring which I fixed too late. I wanted to replace the bearing but I'm worried about it not working or something so I think I'll just replace the compressor with a rebuilt one. Thanks for all of your help btw.

 

Intercooler 28" long, core 2.5" thick, end tanks 2.75" thick, intercooler height from mounting tab to mounting tab (top to bottom) 8"
I have about 60" of piping. Those couplers. The reservoir is for the mister. The aem dry filter is 3" but I think the sc needs a bigger filter.

The charge pipe is all set.

 

Do you plan on cutting up that piping or trying to use it as is?
It looks as if its two different sizes also?

 

I do plan on cutting it up to make it work. The intercooler and piping is from my friends turbo eclipse. There are two different sizes of piping. I mocked it up and it looks promising although I may need a piece of piping once I get to installing it. I've already realized I need a BOV flanged adapter pipe. That is why I want to get the sc and stillen pipe to work at first. Once I get it running like that then I'll have the intercooler and 00VI left before getting a tune on my vafc2. I'm worried my vafc2 is broken. I had a maf cel a while back and I bought a new maf and bypassed the vafc2 and all was fine. But the other day I put my stock airbox and maf back on not to disturb my charge piping and the car is working with no cel. Makes me worry this vafc2 is a dud.

 

What is the inlet/outlet of the IC?
Im assuming your going to run the 3 piping from the blowers outlet to the IC inlet and then run the smaller piping from the IC outlet?

 

The intercooler inlet/outlet and the larger piping is 2" ID. The smaller piping is 1.75" If I would have bought a intercooler setup it would have been 3" everything but got this stuff for $50. I'm working on the fuel system now.

 

I connected a vacuum hose from the bov to the vacuum line that hooks up to the stock air intake box/resonator looking thing but the bov doesn't move. I think I hooked it up to the wrong vac line.

 

Yeah that one doesn't really do anything. Try not to have the bov vacuum line teed off because it won't work properly.

 

Thanks for your help. I have the bov connected to the fpr vac but the bov isn't venting when I rev it. I just put in the new spark plugs and engine oil and tried messing with the bov. I tried searching for info but all I'm finding is debates on what bov to buy. I want to get this working right so I can see what it does at maxus on the dyno.

 

I T'eed it of the brake booster-to-intake manifold vac and it still didn't vent. So now I'm on to figure out what's up with the bov. Just curious, do I need that front horn flange on the bov? That's just for sound right?

 

Is the VAFC2 pressure display (kPa) accurate?

 

You might want to fidget around with the adjustment screw on top. I got lucky and my Vortech unit worked perfectly out of the box.
Nah, it's an approximation based on the voltage the MAF is sending it.

 

When I loosened the nut I couldn't move the rod at all. Should I take it off and take it apart?

 

Tinted and SC'ed all in the same week.

 

After spraying the internals of the bov with wd40 it works nicely.

 

After a drive I checked my oil and when I pulled out the dipstick it was like a truck releasing the air brakes. Freaked me out. I bought this oil catch can from my friend since he never used it. Will this help?



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...d=120521620523

 

I have some questions for you intercooled veterans. The intercooler that I've got is: 28" long, core 2.5" thick, intercooler height from mounting tab to mounting tab (top to bottom) 8" for V1 w/2.87" pulley. Any thoughts on how much PSI I'll loose to back pressure? After doing research I've found statements of 1-2psi drop. Looking at one of these kits for the piping http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CXRac...item1c15becbc9

 

Probabaly about 1psi, I woukdnt think youd lose more then 1.5 psi though.
What size is the inlet/outlet?

 

The intercooler inlet/outlet is 2" ID.

 

I have a v2 with a 2.87" pulley, 3" charge-piping going through a massive Greddy Inercooler. In 3rd gear I see 13.66PSI of Boost. I wouldn't worry much

 

2.5" and 3" Intercooler piping kits cost the same amount. What would be the best choice for air flow in my situation: 3" from SC to intercooler to 3" to MAF or 3" to intercooler to smaller piping to MAF? And by smaller I mean 2"-2.5", intercooler inlet/outlet is 2" ID. Intercooler is 28" long, core 2.5" thick, intercooler height is 8".

 

You can do either, however Im personally using full 3" piping all the way to the TB.

 

Since the cooler has 2" openings I didn't know what to do. 3" all the way sounds good and it leaves room for a cooler upgrade. I want to place the BOV between the blower and cooler; 3" to 2" change in flow must cause back-pressure. Is my blitz bov adequate for this?