Boost flutter, dosnt go away
Boost flutter, dosnt go away
So what can cause such thing. I have fixed every leak i had, i used my air compressor and plugged one end of my piping, fixed like 10 leaks, some big ones. also changed spring of my Tial 38mm to a 13psi spring. yet when i get on it, it flutters at 15psi(this is wat i have it set to with a turbosmart tee MBC), I have even removed the gate (ball and spring inside the mbc) so it can function only to control boost and not spool up, and still get the flutter.
Can it be that actual controller thats giving me issues? I also disconnected my muffler and have an open exhaust housing basically, and still did it. you dont feel it but you do see the gauge needle going nuts, fluttering at 15psi.
Can it be that actual controller thats giving me issues? I also disconnected my muffler and have an open exhaust housing basically, and still did it. you dont feel it but you do see the gauge needle going nuts, fluttering at 15psi.
Could it be the bov? Does it do it when you let off the gas when it is supposed to blow off? If it does it is compressor surge and you should be able to adjust the bov to get rid of it. If it is doing it when in throttle it still could be the bov leaking.
Well, i have a turboxs RFL (known to leak), how ever mine does not leak at the actual valve, i have a small leak at the piston (the part where the vac/boost line goes to, since it dosnt have a diaphram built in its leaking passed the piston and the housing), but id assume this leak wouldnt cause such conditions. or would it?
I already a SQV HKS, tomorrow I am having it welded onto a 3" pipe i got. So lets see how that goes. Hopefully it will get rid of the problem, if it does not. then my other possible source of issue is how i have my WG hooked up. I have a Turbosmart Tee MBC, which is a bleed style, going into the side port with top port open. if new BOV dosnt fix it, then im going to hook up the WG using the top port since iv been told it gives a more stable pressure.
I already a SQV HKS, tomorrow I am having it welded onto a 3" pipe i got. So lets see how that goes. Hopefully it will get rid of the problem, if it does not. then my other possible source of issue is how i have my WG hooked up. I have a Turbosmart Tee MBC, which is a bleed style, going into the side port with top port open. if new BOV dosnt fix it, then im going to hook up the WG using the top port since iv been told it gives a more stable pressure.
Last edited by streetzlegend; Aug 26, 2009 at 07:03 PM.
Well, i have a turboxs RFL (known to leak), how ever mine does not leak at the actual valve, i have a small leak at the piston (the part where the vac/boost line goes to, since it dosnt have a diaphram built in its leaking passed the piston and the housing), but id assume this leak wouldnt cause such conditions. or would it?
I already a SQV HKS, tomorrow I am having it welded onto a 3" pipe i got. So lets see how that goes. Hopefully it will get rid of the problem, if it does not. then my other possible source of issue is how i have my WG hooked up. I have a Turbosmart Tee MBC, which is a bleed style, going into the side port with top port open. if new BOV dosnt fix it, then im going to hook up the WG using the top port since iv been told it gives a more stable pressure.
I already a SQV HKS, tomorrow I am having it welded onto a 3" pipe i got. So lets see how that goes. Hopefully it will get rid of the problem, if it does not. then my other possible source of issue is how i have my WG hooked up. I have a Turbosmart Tee MBC, which is a bleed style, going into the side port with top port open. if new BOV dosnt fix it, then im going to hook up the WG using the top port since iv been told it gives a more stable pressure.
Have you tried setting it so that it releases really early just to see if the noise goes away?
in Park, you rev it and the thing bearly opens, dosnt really open at all. Then i took it apart, cleaned it, I even added a barb on the housing for a better vacum (compared to the tiny one it has), and still same crap. Sooo, I took out the spring completely, and it finally works (its a real HKS, but i guess i have too much piping in my setup so dosnt give time for pressure to vent). With the spring removed it works alot better, still hear the surge coming from the back I THINK, but its almost gone. With the spring removed its basically open at idle and in vacumm, and closes as soon as boost comes in.
As for my flutter problem, nope, it wasnt the BOV. still have it, although the car is flying lol.
I say you attach a duck-call thing to it man! I bet that will fix it! j/k lol Damn man all that work to get it to work and nothing. Are you also reading fluctuating boost on the voltage reading when you log or is it just the gauge? I ask because what if it's just the gauge by itself...
Last edited by mightyMax95; Sep 1, 2009 at 07:05 PM.
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