Great job on that project!!

 

sorry, pm send

 

cough cough PAR

 

What?? How many miles on your G?

 

i think its around 20-40k right?

 

50k got the car from the dealership today and everything is fine wasn't the tranny. Put 90miles on it since 230pm

 

what was it?

 

cloged niods

 

Ok so I took some pics of the pipe made to connect the downpipe to catback with cutout. It's uses a v-band to the downpipe, 3inch pipe, 3inch flex section into a 2.5 inch two bolt flange. It uses all the stock hanger locations and will bolt up to a stock exhaust. It also runs underneath the small part of the tranny.

 

So, I had my first turbo related problem. I brake boosted my car to 5psi on the highway and blew the coupler after the maf. It's the mid-pipe from my cai and is not rolled so I took a speaker wire wrapped it around the pipe and put some electrical tape over it, problem solved

btw on 4/24/2010 another turbo 4.5gen was born and it spools faster than mine

 

couplers are gay

 

ok so I installed some 600cc injectors, z32 maf and jwt ecu today. I am also running a .7bar/10.1lb wastegate spring. Made a quick vid and will post it soon also took the car for a spin and was able to hit around 7lbs and 2nd gear no 3rd gear pulls yet.

Hey guys how much boost are you getting in 2nd gear, just wondering if that is normal or if I should be able to get full wg in 2nd gear

 

Your running your WG reference to the turbo housing? or to the intake manifold?
If you dont have a boost controller on right now, it will take some work to get it spooled up to your spring pressure, which is normal. The more load the more boost you'll get, eventually when you get a controller you'll see your spring pressure in 2nd gear. This is because the wg opens way before your set spring pressure, with controller(the right one), you leave it closed till it reaches your target boost

 

Here is a quick vid of the car from my cell



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O2oLMVB3uRk

 

video doesn't do it justice

 

Ok so think there is a vac leak somewhere that gets worst under high boost cause when I hit full boost the car idles alittle lean and higher than normal. I checked everything last night at idle and it was fine and after alittle bit the a/f and idle went back to normal.

I am going to cap off the charge side and hook it up to my compressor and test it at 10psi

 

yea that's what i was meaning to ask you? where are you getting your boost reference from? our turbos don't have a fitting on the compressor housing..

 

the wastegate is tee'd off the bov and the boost/vac gauge is going to the intake manifold. I am going to drill and tap the turbo and run the wastegate from there.

I am going to test the boost gauge for leaks before I pressurize the charge side. My gauge is going bad and doesn't start from zero anymore.

 

ok so I am getting a hissing sound from my iacv, I am going to take it off and check the adapter plate and barbed fitting for leaks. Also I currently have it tee'd off the brake booster hose on the rear of the intake. I am thinking about tapping the intake so the iacv has it's own source.

Last is a question should I install a check valve in the hose going to the pvc on the rear valve cover or is it cool. I was wondering if it's cool for it to see boost.

Starting to think I should have left it at 5.7psi, SIKE this is alittle stuff. All suggestions and tips are welcome.

Oh yeah streetz being able to keep the wg closed till full boost it reached sounds nice but I would need a electronic controller for that correct.

 

nah you can do it mechanically with manual controller for cheap, I'll show you later I'm on my fone now.

for the pcv, YES, install a check valve. If you don't know of any I'll link you to the ones I got later today. Pcv can leak and you don't want positive pressure in your crankcase!

 

Here you go, this is where you should get the check valve, they even have it in 3/8th so its perfect for pcv hose. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...ickid=redirect

I think i got the PP Standard Checkvalve.

As for the boost controller, its actually simple:
You need two valves, basically the stuff you use on air compressors hoses. A pressure regulator and a pressure relief valve. You have a line from the charge pipe to the WG, so airflow coming from the chargepipe goes to the relief valve (you set this at w/e pressure you want it to open at), then airflow goes into the 2nd valve which is the one that will control your overall boost level. Just takes a little bit of tuning, since you got an air compressor its alot simpler, you just run the compressor at w/e PSI you want and set the valves to that pressure. the 1st one wont open till it reaches that pressure. hope thats not confusing its alot simpler than it sounds. Here is an article explainig it all and showing actual results data.
http://autospeed.com.au/cms/title_Th...8/article.html

 

sweet thanks for the info, let me make sure I got this right remember my wastegate spring is 10.1psi.

I can do this by getting two manual boost controllers and set one at 8psi and the second at 10.5 if I want to ramp the boost or since I do not want to go past wg psi just one controller and just set it to waste psi.

lol, if I am reading this right the two controller setup is like having a progressive nitrous controller and the one controller setup is like spraying a straight shot.

 

Sort of, Actually I realized them ebay controllers that have a spring with a ball inside, is basically the same thing as having them two. the spring pushes the ball agaisnt the opening so it prevents flow from getting to the WG, once the spring gives up and airflow comes in, then the bleed (little hole) is what controls how much boost youll get. Thats why they say when you have those manual controllers you can get some spiking.

Like the bottom example:
http://a577.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...6efec22560.jpg


Here is an example of the PERRIN controller which is pretty good, basically the ball is what controls how much flow goes to the WG, the tighter you have it the longer the ball blocks the passage, then once it reaches certain pressure it slightly allows flow to the WG (depending how tight it is, is how much pressure the WG will get therefore more boost).

 

so why doesn't the perrin have a vent hole like the 20.00 dsm controller. I noticed they use different *****.
I know what I'll be researching at work today, lol

 

Because its not a bleed type.

 

ok so I ordered some check valves and a boost controller

 

Took the G35 back to the dealership today cause I lost reverse over the weekend.

And to the final report is the tranny is bad, they are going to order another one and should be fixed by tomorrow

Nissan and their trannies

 

Put an aux cooler on it when you get it back.

 

Can't cause it will void the warranty. They will try to say I did it wrong if the tranny acts up again

I have like 25k miles left on it and will do it then

 

Ok, so today I installed the check valve in the pvc line, boost controller and tapped the intake manifold and ran a seperate vac fitting for the iacv.

For the iacv I just tee'd off the brake booster line when I did the 3.5 swap and my brakes always felt weird under heavy braking and never really liked it but it worked plus I'm lazy, LOL. So I finally tap the intake and ran a seperate line also I felt the vac line has too long and the fitting on the iacv adapter was too small. Oneday I'll change to something bigger or just remove the iacv completely.

I was unable to set the controller with my compressor cause I did not have anything to hook it up to without a leak. So I took the car out for a spin and the car idles better, guessing do to the iacv having a direct source and the brakes feel better under hard braking too. Boost comes in harder and now I just need to set it at 10psi and I am good.

Next week I may try to tap the turbo and run a vac line for the wastegate or run a boost gauge from the wastegate source and another one from the intake manifold so I can will know quickly if the car has a boost leak.

BTW, I maybe doing a single turbo foxbody project next

Sorry no vid, I have a 5-speed and a camera phone, kinda hard

 

yea nissan trannys are like glass.. My friends cousin has a g37 in the past two years went back to get his tranny replaced 5 times.... If it happens again he said hes gonna claim it as a "lemon"

 

Well I took the car out for a spin, I still can not hit 10psi in 2nd gear but 3rd is not a problem now. The boost controller is working and holds the wastegate closed till 10psi and no spikes.

I made a few 4th and 5th gear pulls and noticed I maxed out the mph gauge easy. Made a quick vid with my phone at part throttle in 5th gear.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2S6lG9jLPuQ

 

Pffft, gauge only goes to 140.




J/k Looks like some pretty good acceleration.

 

Be careful with high gear runs, you doing anything about timing, i forgot.

 

I am running a jwt ecu with a 100 octane timing map.

Yeah it maybe time to install a 5gen gauge cluster, lol

 

Oh ok, you ever log your timings, i am curious to know what jwt considers a good tune for 100oct. iv read they retard alot.

 

JWT standard tune is 10degree's, 100 octance is 18, I asked for 20

 

so about 4degree's less than stock, same for the whole timing curve?

 

I have not hooked this ecu up to a scan tool to confirm but on my n/a jwt ecu is was not static

 

10 degreezzz no wonder they dont make power.. and pig rich i bet... hmm wonder what it looks like throughout the curve compared to stock..youre prob good to run that timing on 93 with meth in there if 100 oct gets a bit pricey, guess that will depend on the amount of boost youre going to be putting into it.what are your thoughts on the max whp you want?