J&S Safeguard
#1
J&S Safeguard
Hey all
Wanted to get your opinion regarding the J&S safeguard. Does it work along side the EU? I have the full EU harness so can I just intercept again right after the EU with he safeguard? Then make my timing map and let the J&S retard if need be? Would you make an Aggressive timing map to get the most you can and let the J&S retard it? Lastly is it worth the coin?
V2 supercharger ~11psi
600CC injectors
Z32 MAF
00VI
EU for tuning
Thanks!
Ohh and if you got one for sale, let me know
Wanted to get your opinion regarding the J&S safeguard. Does it work along side the EU? I have the full EU harness so can I just intercept again right after the EU with he safeguard? Then make my timing map and let the J&S retard if need be? Would you make an Aggressive timing map to get the most you can and let the J&S retard it? Lastly is it worth the coin?
V2 supercharger ~11psi
600CC injectors
Z32 MAF
00VI
EU for tuning
Thanks!
Ohh and if you got one for sale, let me know
#3
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It's worth it. I don't know if I'd go over aggressive on timing and depend on it to retard all the time. Just remember it has to read knock before it retards... so that whole time with too much timing it will read knock, retard, then revert to normal, read knock again... retard... So basically you're going to be seeing a good amount of knock.
IMO it would be more useful to get your timing dialed in where you would normally (with no knock in normal conditions) and then if you get bad gas for some reason, it heatsoaks more than usual, or what ever assorted circumstances could cause knock where there normally wouldn't be then it will save your engine.
I would love to have one for the switch-activated timing retard for nitrous also. With nano, remote opener, and a J&S, NO2 could truly be on/off even on the street where you normally have bottle closed and N/A timing map loaded.
IMO it would be more useful to get your timing dialed in where you would normally (with no knock in normal conditions) and then if you get bad gas for some reason, it heatsoaks more than usual, or what ever assorted circumstances could cause knock where there normally wouldn't be then it will save your engine.
I would love to have one for the switch-activated timing retard for nitrous also. With nano, remote opener, and a J&S, NO2 could truly be on/off even on the street where you normally have bottle closed and N/A timing map loaded.
#4
It is worth the coin especially if you are built. Kinda like having a car alarm, it gives piece of mine but does not ultimately prevent anything from happening. It will try to save the motor just in case, but your tune should be good, meaning tuned to where it doesn't knock under maximum boost.
#5
I figured this would be good for knock detection...I don't want to blow my motor do to a bad tune or extra timing due to so much fuel adjustments. I havent found a solid way to detect knock other then by ear but that's just stone age...Ima see if there is any tuner shop near me with a dyno and have them have a go at it.
Aside from this unit, what has everyone else used to detect knock, just detect.
Thanks
Aside from this unit, what has everyone else used to detect knock, just detect.
Thanks
#6
I have the J&S and it is the best investment you can make on a car that is modified, no matter how much you pay for it.. even at ~$500 is worth every penny.
You can use the EU with the J&S but you need to get a different adapter that the JS normally does not come with. You can contact John at JS and he can make you the proper plug ~$100 so that you can use with the EU. You can always call John for anything, he is very very helpful.
I use the JnS as my primary tool for timing control, I dont use the EU for timing since I dont have that plug. You can use the JS to tune by boost, you have two *****, one controls when the boost retard will start, you can set it from 0 to 10psi, meaning you can set when u want it to start retarding. You have the second **** which controls the "rate" of boost retard, meaning after the "start" psi it will retard X amount per psi. you can change the rate from 0 to 2degree's per psi.
How I tune:
I put the start **** all the way to 10psi, meaning below 10psi its stock timing, then i set the rate **** to like 1.5ish or so, I am at 15psi so that retards 5psix1.5deg=-7.5degrees.
Then go for a few WOT runs, if I dont see the gauge light up telling me its retarding cuz of knock then i lower the "rate" ****, once I see the gauge light up then i slightly turn it back up and thats it. This means you'll have aggressive timing without knock, eitherway if it does detect knock the JS retards it way before it can do any damage. Technically you can leave stock timing and just let the JS retard on its own based on when it starts to knock but thats not the best way to tune it.
You can use the EU with the J&S but you need to get a different adapter that the JS normally does not come with. You can contact John at JS and he can make you the proper plug ~$100 so that you can use with the EU. You can always call John for anything, he is very very helpful.
I use the JnS as my primary tool for timing control, I dont use the EU for timing since I dont have that plug. You can use the JS to tune by boost, you have two *****, one controls when the boost retard will start, you can set it from 0 to 10psi, meaning you can set when u want it to start retarding. You have the second **** which controls the "rate" of boost retard, meaning after the "start" psi it will retard X amount per psi. you can change the rate from 0 to 2degree's per psi.
How I tune:
I put the start **** all the way to 10psi, meaning below 10psi its stock timing, then i set the rate **** to like 1.5ish or so, I am at 15psi so that retards 5psix1.5deg=-7.5degrees.
Then go for a few WOT runs, if I dont see the gauge light up telling me its retarding cuz of knock then i lower the "rate" ****, once I see the gauge light up then i slightly turn it back up and thats it. This means you'll have aggressive timing without knock, eitherway if it does detect knock the JS retards it way before it can do any damage. Technically you can leave stock timing and just let the JS retard on its own based on when it starts to knock but thats not the best way to tune it.
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