97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the advice.

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

Fueling and engine management.

Part list:

Remaped JWT ecu
AEM F\IC8 Piggy pack http://www.aemelectronics.com/engine...oller-f-ic-12/
AEM Boost Control Solenoid Kit #30-2400
AEM UEGO Wideband controller #30-4100
Z32 MAF
Ford #39 Injectors (they supposely flow 410cc at our fuel pressure)
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Return style fuel rail with FPR (Found a like new, used SARD FPR for sale localy)


I already stated that I will send back my JWT ecu for a reflash.
The idea behind this is to have a reliable base map in the ecu so it can be drivable before even fine tuning it.
The current 8000rpm fuel cut will be reduced to 7000. Preventing fuel cut while boosting, valve float and oil pump failure.

I chosed the AEM F/IC8 over the EMU, because of it's way to retard timming.
It intercept crank and cam signals instead of adding a delay to the coilpacks signals.
It has the ability to adjust the injectors duty cycle from 0% to 100%.
It can drive up to 8 injectors chanels, leaving 2 chanels free for later nitrous operation.
It got a nice built-in boost controller and can datalog. Pretty cool, I say.

Z32 maf and the walbro 255lph pump need no explanation....

I meet Jime for the last 2 summers at Napierville Dragway.
I notice his fuel rail feedline is splited in 2, entering each rail separately. (returnless style)
He's put the return line directly at his fuel cell in the trunk using an FPR.
I like his idea, I would feed my fuel rails separately like he did, but with the
FPR at the end of the separated fuel rails, to have a return style rail.

The Ford #39 are OEM quality parts, that can save us few hundred bucks vs
all the brand new 440cc injectors available out there for the VQ35.
Just in case someone would ask why....

About the SARD FPR, it does'nt have a built in pressure dial, but it is a real nice piece of equipement.
The seller also have 2 autometer fuel gauge for sale. One is mecanical, the other is electrical.
I think I'll take the mecanical one. It is more convenient to have the dial close for reading while adjusting the FPR.


Got a question...
(Reminding myself streetzlegend's thread about uneven bank AFR)
Should I permanantly monitor each bank exhaust with 2 widebands?
Or just one will suffice and I could just swap the sensor from the 2 pipes when (or IF) needed?

Comments...?

Thanks guy's!

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Its not a bad idea to have two fixed widebands on each bank, specially IF you run individual exhaust pipes to the back for each turbo(dual exhaust). From what I have learned, pretty much once you make corrections between the banks, it stays the same. If you dont want to get a 2nd WB, you can just swap banks and tune them.

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

Thank you sir!

A good advantage to have 2 wideband is not having to lie under the car to swap the sensor from a pipe to another and risk damaging the sensor if it is jammed by rust or heat.

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

Anyone has ever mess around with an AEM F/IC?
The research function is not much helpfull.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Im not familiar with the AEM unit, what is the primary reason you want to go with that? is it because it alters timing via crank reference and not coils? I cant think of any negative side effect of retarding/advancing timing via coils

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...c-4th-gen.html

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

That exactly the thread I could'nt find... Thanks!

I've sent a pm to SouthFlMaxTech, but he's not been here since late september.
I wonder if we will have his share of experience on it...

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

Mainly beacause i read this article...
Emanage blue vs aem fic article

Quote from article about the E-Blue timming adjustment capability;
"I had our Snap-On MT2500 hooked in to monitor fuel trims and ignition timing, only to find out that when I was tuning and I added timing, it stayed the same according to the Snap-On unit. Then, when I retarded timing, it worked 90% of the time. How’s that for accuracy???"

And reading the features on AEM's site
http://www.aemelectronics.com/engine...oller-f-ic-12/

stillpimpin

iTrader: (1)

Im running the AEM FIC and loving it..No complaint about, with a wideband anyone can tune this thing...( All tuning done myself)

Big_E-Dog

iTrader: (14)

please finish!!!


intersted!!!

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

I don't think this is gonna work.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Same thing I heard before I did RMT

maxgtr2000

iTrader: (29)

Nothing wrong with the aem, it is a good choice, plus you can directly cut fuel without messing with timing, with the blue you have to alter the airflow map. Knowing what I do now, if I had to do it all over I would go with the aem.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

I dont know man, the EU is really hard to beat. fuel cut, inj, ign, boost controller, you name it, it can do it.

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

It can do a lot, more than we need to. But with greddy, every harness is an option. The AEM has all the harness inclued, for like 300 bucks less.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

300 less? how much are the AEM units?

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

Around 350$ for the fic 6 and around $550 for the fic 8. (ebay price with shipping inclued)
On AEM's site it is $388 for the fic 6 and $593 for the fic 8...

VQ'ed

iTrader: (2)

the thing is we work on the car with passion, time and maxima.org on our side, not with people who dont believe in us...

streetzlegend is subscribed and helping, when we'll get our hands in it deep, the guy will help as much as he can. Jime will chime in eventually with valuable infos also. We get the block built, working with OEM and proven parts as much as possible.

Good infos and help from here is a third of the job. Secondly, a good working place with a 4 post hoist and air tools is a third and me and Claude is the last part. We had 8 maxima me and him, we know them pretty much from the top of our head.

We dont do hondas because its too easy and the recipes have all been used.
We do Nissans because its reliable, fun and different. WE BELIEVE!!

I know it will take time, research and a lot of cash but we'll get there. Look at the 2nd gen twin turbo black maxima project... he got it running and still rip it today! Belief is a big part of projects. Be fond to your plans and you'll get results.

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

I almost can't wait to start this. I'll call the engine workshop this week, for further infos and price quotes. With enough chances, we could start removing the blown engine next weekend.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

stillpimpin

iTrader: (1)

Brought mine for $390 almost 2years ago.. $350 aint bad at all.. Install way pretty easy too...

maxgtr2000

iTrader: (29)

Yeah, I'm not comparing the EU to the aem by any means, the EU is the top piggyback imo as far as features go, I was comparing the blue vs aem. For boost the aem is a good pick since it comes with everything vs blue +ignition harness+ injection harness+ map sensor. Aem has it all built in. Blue<aem<EU.

Driving style is a factor too, if you are going to track the car get the EU. Daily driving and you won't ever see a track, the blue will get you through.

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

That's just the e-manage blue, the ultimate has way more than the blue. The e-manage ultimate can advance and retard timing, so it's delaying the coil rather than delaying the crank signal and I don't see evidence of this being negative so far only positive because you can also advance timing, it can raise and lower injector pulse width, and has a boost sensor option. Looks a little better than then AEM F/IC. Just trying to help as I'm doing something similar to you. If you choose the aem then more power to you, it looks pretty good and it's cheaper.

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

On a stock motor with higher boost won't better tuning result in a safer and more reliable setup? I was debating the same thing for my street car. Basically, VAFC2 or EMU? The more work I put into it the more I'm leaning towards the EMU... just to be safe.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

this is not a fair comparison, something better would be the blue vs aem 6 and the eu vs aem 8

as for a negative try burnt coils

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

im no boost expert, but the size of the piping is what lead me to say that, i dunno if plans have been changed or not but a single 2.5 going to two turbos? Atleast run dual 2.25s to each turbo then 2.5s into a 3" single or something of that nature.

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

I haven't gotten that far yet. All I've read is that some people needed resistors for either blown coils or cels.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

I am pretty sure the coil burning issue was with the emanage blue, not the EU

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

I've personal seen the blue cook coils like deep fried chicken. As for the EU I remember Dandymax saying something about resistor's or diode's in his eu writeup but the op would have to read it cause I can't remember

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

For the feew time I meet Jime, he told us he had coil burning issue with his EU. He then instaled a UTEC and the problem went away. Another good reason why I looked for something else than Greddy to take care of my engine management.

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I've read dandymax writeup on vqpower. You have to ad 330ohms resistors at the coilpack driver outputs.

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

I will have the exhaust completely separated from each bank.
I'll run 2 x 2.0" mandrel bent stainless steel, with exhaust heat wrap all the way to the back. Each one will have bungs for the narrowband and the wideband O2's. The single charge pipe will be 2.0" too. I'm tempted to also use stainless for durability even if it's more heavy than aluminium.

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

I wols atleast use a 2.5 charge but streetz would know best

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

2" is working but if I were to do it again I would do 2.25 to make sureI'm not restricting

Big_E-Dog

iTrader: (14)

i just found my new sig!!!

We dont do hondas because its too easy and the recipes have all been used.
We do Nissans because its reliable, fun and different. WE BELIEVE!!




wel if you think about it 2" would be good for spool having to travel alllllll that way, could allmost be perfect then you dont really have to worry about dragging/scraping on stuff like man hole covers.

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, but you have a turbo that is much more bigger than my 2 T25. Everyone told me not to boost more than 14psi with these.
Would you still recommand me to use 2.25 for the charge pipe??

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

Use it as much as you want!
I'll use it for a while...

Exactly, to keep a good velocity in the charge pipe.

97_Roadrunner

iTrader: (2)

OK! Champion motors wasn't interested to do the job so they over quoted... $2800 just for the labor... crazy ****'s!
I've called BHP motors in Laval. www.bhpmotors.com
They already have done engine jobs on 350z. They will call me back tomorow for the quote including all the parts. They will use Eagle h-beams, Wiseco pistons(8.8cr), Cometic VQ35HR HG, ARP 2000, ACL bearing and all the other required stuff I already listed in my first post.

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

hmmm, if your really going to stay at low HP (below 500), then I think 2" piping should be fine. There was a Z that put out about 620whp or so, on STS piping (they come with 2" as well), however he had a stroker kit. I think with 2" we are fine upto maybe 450. Iv been told that 2" piping is maxed out at 580 cfm, and after that resistance goes up and causes loss (more heat, less airflow).

Like I mentioned though, if I were to do it again (or in the far future), I would put 2.25" just for a peace of mind. The main problem with me is that 2" piping sometimes hits speed bumps, so anything bigger would be an issue with scrapping, unless I run oval piping.