update

 

well here is a look at the problem i have, i took a pic from all angles i could think of:











if i could squeeze 2 inches of clearance from the abs i would be golden.

 

Remove ABS.

 

There is alot that would go into deleting that ABS, that will be last ditch option if i cant just move the abs unit.

 

doesn't look like you need alot of room, could unbolt the abs unit and bend the lines alittle

 

zip ties are our friend

 

Is it possible to take the pipe to a muffler shop and have it cut a little shorter and rewelded? Seems like you just need the flange to clear.

 

he could but then he would have to get the crossover pipe modded also and if not done correctly it will not line up with the front header or downpipe. It would be easier to just move or delete the abs

 

it is just the flange that is in the way im going to try moving the abs today.

 

Cut off the flanges and use this:



Streetz has used those with success on his exhaust.

 

Damn now that looks like a good idea

 

Well i was already successful in moving the ABS upwards and out of the way its now the bracket that holds the abs that is in the way. I have to cut and bend it.

But that can be very helpful on my exhuast if they come in 3", what are those things called?

 

Well working slowly but surely, i was expecting the radiator fans to be a problem but, as usually nothing is easy with these cars, so i have about 2" to work with between the radiator and motor, i dont think it will be big enough for any fan to move a reasonable amount of cfms, so im going Pusher fans, i would like to stick them in between the radiator and AC condenser, if the stock fans can flow enough CFMs as pushers i will just modify and use them.

Any suggestions? Pics will be up soon.

 

A single 16inch slim fan setup for pull not push or cut off the drivers side fan. A local member is running a single 16inch fan on his 400+ fwhp turbo maxima for over a year and it works fine

 

I have cut them so they are 2 separate fans and nether will fit anywhere on the radiator, atleast as a pull. They can work as a push with just small mounting mods for the radiator and AC condenser Its just how much air can these fans move. There really is very little room to play with once that radiator is in there.

 

I have been silently working, finding more problems and fixing them, just working my way through a lot of things but here is where i am as of tonight, very close to completion. And, yes currently things are messy:



gonna need a pretty well designed dump tube:


And the car was jacked so high when i put one side of it down it just looked funny:



But anyway, this is what i am left with currently:





emanage, e-01, and gauges need to be wired up. there are some lose vac ports that need attention but overall its very close to being done.

 

Great project, good luck with it...

 

 

good luck man looks good, im in the process of saving up to buy the last of my parts to get my 97 boosted so my pics will be up soon enough also lol

 

 

Naaaa... It's just a little leak. It should be good. Just top her off.

 

ok assistance plz. Emanage plus Z32 MAF. i knew i should have just stuck to the A32 MAF for now but i had to go and throw the Z32 one on.

help with making adjustments to the Emanage to get the car to work with the Z32 MAF. i believe its whats giving the car a hard time starting.

 

When i switched from a32 to z32 maf i didnt have to make any changes whatsoever on the emu.

 

what injectors are you running?

 

I have the same setup. A32/Z32 have the same signal up until open loop (40%+ throttle/-5psi vac) So that is not your prob unless you wired it wrong.

 

probably the injectors flooding the engine then.

 

440s... I do however pull a little fuel at idle to get it to idle properly, but even that was before the z32 maf got swapped in. So maybe try lowering fuel pressure or pulling fuel on a map

 

Really? My car with N62 maf and EU runs super lean in closed loop without any adjustments.

 

On stock injectors....

 

Yes..

He said that A32/Z32 mafs have same signal in closed loop. If the signals really are the same, then the size of the injectors shouldn't matter.

 

a couple of stutters and a pop but no start, i have a headache from smell of the partially unburnt fuel, I lowered and raised the fuel pressure, tried messing around in the emanage but no luck. Checked the airflow on the emanage and the car is getting signal from the maf, so that rules out the maf wiring.

What im wondering is could it be the plugs? They are 2 step colder V powers, they are brand new and i gapped them to .036, too cold maybe or just the wrong plugs all together because they had to be looked up, NGK changed the part numbers on the plugs. When i pulled them they were soaked in fuel.

 

stutters, pop, and unburnt fuel sounds like a ground issue to me. more specifically tranny/engine mating surface. (you pulled the engine right? did you seperate the tranny and engine?) add a ground to the bellhousing and see what happens.

 

Yea motor was pulled. i can add some grounds, i have a few ground wires left from an aftermarket kit. I did rearrange some grounds today but i didnt add any. I didnt think it was necessary to have as many grounds as it use to have(it was pretty extreme before, i had grounds each head, 3 on the block 2 on the timing cover and 2 on the IM).

 

How are you battling with heat under the hood?
Good luck. Hopefully you can get it started.

 

Did you yet if there is spark

 

Did u confirm if there is spark

 

i might have to test for spark i just came back from trying to get it to start and nothing i tried work, added grounds went over and checked all my sensors and fluids, nothing was disconnected. I even disconnected the emanage and gave it a shot, nothing. I get white smoke coming out of the exhuast when i try and start the car, the plugs again soaked in fuel and it doesnt look like it has even sparked once.

Something strange happened today, when i first turned the ignition to the on position i heard 2 loud pops coming from somewhere near the brake booster area. it almost sounded as if hoses were being blown off. i went to check and i didnt see anything different no smoke nothing. Just random pops. I disconnected the battery waited for a couple of mins and tried again and it didnt happen again.

 

I would pull the plugs, clean them, take a spare plug put it in a coil a ground it while cranking the car to test for spark. Then disconnect the injectors crank the motor a few times with all of the plugs to clear out the cylinders encase they are flooded. If you have spark try again, if the spark is weak check your resistance across the body, engine, tranny, and ground locations. If you have no spark check your coils for power, cranks sensor and etc

good luck

 

btw the eu is known to cook coils and ecu's if not wired correctly

 

My ECU has always been a bit....well funny. It works just fine just the damn thing stores codes and doesnt let it go until it feels like it and the CEL doesnt light up on start up.

Im sure it is a spark issue. The Coils are pretty old. I have some spares I can give a shot. But i will check to see if im even getting spark.