If that is the case im running an Emanage, what are the setting i should be running? i can get a another wideband quickly i dont think its possible to increase revs past +18.1 AFRs. The main problem im having is the car is constantly breaking up and this is just when free revving. It gets to 2000rpm, and stumbles and breaks up, gets it will eventually get to redline but its not a pleasant sound.

 

You dont have to change any settings on the emu when going from a32 maf to z32 maf.

Heres my list of possible causes:
Extremely rich
Spark plug Gap too large (blowout)
Emu wiring loose or messed up.

Unhook the emu and run it off the stock ecu and see what happens. My emu wiring is horrible and i can recreate horrible misfires just by jiggling my harness lol. And yes, it breaks up pretty bad too when i do that. Kinda wrxish sound

 

Oh another thing, dont u have to do some weird thing with a coil pack when using the 3.5 mani? Have u checked that to make sure its still good? Do you have any codes?

 

I guess you are running the emanage blue so you have to make sure your settings are correct for a z32 maf in the emanage support tool settings. To check if your settings are wrong, disconnect the maf input from the emanage and hook it up regular to the ecu (since the emanage blue intercepts the maf wire), if the car revs fine then you know your settings are wrong.

 

i have tried to start the car with out the emanage before, it wont start. Not even a cough.

The problem with the 3.5IM and the coil packs is because of the 3.0 valve cover, im using 3.5 valve covers so there is no issues with coil packs.

Its not throwing any codes.


Its a plug n play harness im using for the EB, its for a 97 and im using it on a 95 although i dont think there is any issues with that, i havent been rough with it but with wiring you never know.

 

ok here is something interesting that is happening. The car is not throwing codes for this either, i disconnected the MAF and the emanage was still showing the same MAF reading as when it is connected. The car behaved slightly different. But was still revving and going past 2500rpm.

 

It was the Z32 maf. Went back to the A32 maf(i had to find my old maf and a new harness) and it started working perfectly.

 

any updates, have you driven the car yet

 

i dont have a dump tube yet, but i couldnt help myself on the car's first voyage, at around 3500rpm felt like full boost but i was in 2nd gear and the tires couldnt hold on. It spools quite a bit faster than the other turbo car which is quite impressive.

 

What's the other turbo car?

 

Same turbo T04E. the old car felt like it came on boost around 4000rpm, but that could have been because of the MEVI opening.

 

this dump tube might be a problem thou, because of where the waste gate sits, its right infront of the radiator and there seems to be no space for a tube to run. going into boost was dangerous that first time was pretty dangerous.

 

Could you cut the wg flange off and reclock it or route the upper rad hose alitte different. If neither option will work shoot me a pm or text, should be able to work something out

 

what im thinking about is getting a radiator hose off a 5.5 gen. should give me another inch or 2 of clearance.

 

The only issue I can see is that the rear O2 sensor heater comes out of the ECU at pin 105 for model year '95 and '96. This is changed to pin 107 for model years '97 '98. For '99, there are two rear heated O2 sensors so Nissan used 105 to heat one and 107 to heat the other one. This is according to information compiled from the FSMs for each year.

If you want me to reconfigure it you can send it back.

 

Interesting, the car has been running without issue despite this. The rear O2 sensor is pretty much useless, just emissions BS from what i understand.

 

I (the FSM) might be wrong. The only way to tell would be to check voltage at the rear 02 sensor heater wire.

From what I understand, the rear sensor mainly monitors the catalyst function, but I thought I read somewhere that it can be used for closed loop feedback if the two primary sensors fail. The FSM says the rear sensor is "not used to control the engine under normal conditions".

Do you have a CEL?

 

nope im all clear.

 

I would just forget about it then.

 

If you can't reclock it, you can get creative and put in a "reflector plate" if the fit is really tight. Use 2 1 inch spacers, a metal plate and the bolts to hold it onto the wg. Just a thought.

 

well, if you havent seen the positioning of the wastegate here is what it looks like:





Its gonna be a problem, i went into boost once and it opened that was scary but nothing was damaged or even blackened......this time, im avoiding driving it by not putting the rest of the car's body panels back on until i can figure out what im gonna do about the wastegate.

I would love to hear some more details on the reflector plate thou.

 

Looks to me like you have room for a dump tube, just have someone weld it facing downward, wrap the part that would touch the radiator hose with wrapping and wrap part of the radiator hose as well and you should be good. If the space was tighter I would fabricate a plate in case you couldn't get a pipe bend in there but you looks like you have room.

 

ok need some help because im just lost.

On monday i started the car to turn it around so i could jack it up to work on it. Drove up the driveway, was going up the hill in front of my house to turn the car around and it stalled. not a big deal, until i tried to restart the car. Turns over fine but doesnt start. i tried again and again and again it will not start. Fuel pressure was reading normal at the time. So i thought maybe the cylinders just got flooded, pushed the car out of the way, waited till the next day.

Next day turned the key checked the fuel pressure, and it was reading low. So it was out of fuel. Got fuel put it in the car tried to turn it on it will crank but will not turn on. There is an occasional cough but it will not turn on. Decided to give it another couple of hours at this point it had started to eat the battery.

So today switch the battery from my DD tried to start it again nothing. It has a 1/4 tank of fuel in it, FP reading fine, starter is fine but it will not turn on. What is so annoying about this is the car for the past couple of months and i have driven it twice but it has cut on without issue, idled with out issue, except for when its cold it will die but it popped right back to life when you tried to cut it back on. Now all of a sudden it just stalled and it will not turn on again.

The worst part about it is the car is in a position i cannot jack it up.the bumper is practically rubbing against the ground because its uneven. im at a complete loss to why it wont start.

 

check the plugs?

 

plugs are fine, they are wet, so its getting fuel but it wont restart. i tried moving the CKPS around still nothing and it was on tight to begin with.

Anything?

 

Is that my old 3.5 Manifold?

 

time to back track what have you changed or touched since the car last ran

 

grounds, crank/cam sensors, other wiring...

 

My finger is pointed at the CKPS. Tested for spark and got none. I will take a stab at that thing tomorrow.

 

Yea.

 

Well today is valentines day so i gave it another shot(that and its been pretty cold the last couple of days): cleaned the ckps which interestingly was covered in oil so discovered an oil leak from the turbo's return line. Cleaned it tried to start it, even used another harness, nothing. Cam position sensor cleaned that tried again nothing. Tried unpluging the IACV, MAF, TPS, CKPS, CPS, Emanage nothing(not at the same time of course). Lowered and raised fuel pressure, nothing. Checked fuses they are all fine.

Its getting comical that it wont start but i cant find the problem. The only thing i havent been able to get to is the crank sensor on the oil pan and i havent yet tried my old ECU.

 

Dat **** cray


vat codes you got? my car started up much faster after i cleaned the crank REF sensor

 

Have not checked yet although i dont think that will help now that i have disconnected the battery.

It did cough a little bit more after i cleaned the sensor but no start.

 

what have touched since the last good startup. are you getting spark and no fuel or fuel and no spark.

also don't it but it does happen, did you check to see if any rodents may have eaten any wires or etc

 

I have fuel put no spark. so its an ignition problem.

Here what is so confusing the last good start was on the day it stalled and died and i had started it 2 days before that, and i had not touched it. I didnt see any evidence of something gnawing through the wires.

 

your security light isnt on solid is it? maybe you used a different key than the others and locked yourself out of the nats system?

you check fuses? possibly with you changing all that stuff you may have pinched a wire on accident and now its grounding out or shorted?

 

did you test the ign switch or alarm

 

Its a 96 so it doesnt have key problems, the alarm has not been armed for months now. I always take it off the battery then lock the doors to make sure it never accidentally arms itself then gets stuck there.

 

Jumped timing?

 

since you have fuel and no spark time to start testing everything from the plugs and work your way back to the ign switch.

have you attemped to pull a plug put it in the coil crank the car while grounding it to confirm there is no spark or atleast unplug a coil to see if your getting 12v, ground and a crank signal