A couple few months ago I had a starting issue. Even when cold, it would just sit and crank crank crank. Foot to the floor, crank crank crank, nothing. I did a few things with emanage and cleaned some sensors in the engine bay and got it to start but never narrowed it down to anything.

Did an oil change about 700 miles ago and changed the wire going to the Flywheel Crank sensor (on the bellhousing) While I did it, I cleaned that sensor off really well.

Ive recently been using my car alot and slowly it has been getting worse and worse. Mostly when its ONLY warm or hot, but it also started to struggle after work on a cold night. The main issue would be to drive around till its hot, park it for a few minutes and try and re-start it would just crank crank crank and not turn over. Its definetly been getting worse.
Well today I did some errands. Went to staples, car still cold, started right up after I came out. Longer driver to TD, parked and came out and the car wouldnt start. I figured it was just flooded. I waited and still nothing, just crank crank crank, no turn over. I sat there for about a half an hour, and still nothing. It would just continually crank and NOTHING.
I then dug through my trunk and found a 10mm socket and wrench, thank god I had it, and removed the Flywheel Ref Sensor (on the bell housing) It was a tad bit dusty. Cleaned it off. Got back in the car, turned right over the first turn. Amazing especially after sitting there for 30 min cranking this thing over.

Am I the only one having this issue ? I did clean a tiny bit of dust off of that sensor, but def. not a ton of dust. Im really puzzled onto what to do. I really dont want to be pulling that sensor every 700 miles to clean it off.

Thanks
Matt

 

Welcome to my life...but I think mine has to do with my tuning (I think/hope) I had this issue.

First the car would not start it would crank but not start (slowly developed this issue), push starting worked right away. So I upgraded my grounding cables. Bam fired up in no time. Then the issue came back slowly. This time changed the starter and it was fine. Now I have this issue where the starter cranks then stops like it hit a wall or something. Re crank it and it fires up. I cleaned out all the sensors/swapped out sensors then figured out I haven't tuned my map at crank or 0 boost/vac at this time the car is hibernating in a barn...

BTW does it backfire sometimes? like when it cranks and crank then POW! cause it happened to me at the gas station lol, god everyone swang there heads at my car lol...thats where I figured I'm flooding the car so I hope this is my issue! might be yours?

Any who thought I'd give you my situation which might help out with your situation....

 

re-looking at the title it said "fixed" what was the issue?

 

Well Im really not sure if its "fixed" or not. I cleaned off the Sensor that moniters the flywheel and it cranked right over. That was after 4 or 5 consecutive times of cranking with NO Luck. Not a problem since. Until I went to walmart last night and came out and, Crank crank crank, no start. Really weird. I cleaned that sensor off again, started right up. *Maybe that sensor is on its way out*

I did get a code for the cam shaft sensor after all that cranking. Reset the code and changed the sensor. If this doesnt fix anything the I will be replacing the sensor on the belhousing.

I read a few old posts that say an old camshaft sensor thats on its way out could be intermittant. One day its fine and one day it acts up. Either way this is definetly an issue with the HEAT of the engine and one of the sensors going bad. I dont think its a tune issue considering I havent really messed with the tune. (555's, EU)

As far as the starter being the culprit, it turns like a champ and doesnt really hang up so I dont think thats an issue. No backfires from the motor either.

-matt

 

If you search the 4th Gen forum, there are a few threads that talk about this issue. Some guys get good results from chaning out the camshaft sensor even when it bench tests fine.

 

I have always had starting issues, worse in the last few months. I have new Crank and cam sensors, and nothing. I dont an IACV however, so its always been a little hard to get started. Part reason I think is due to the thick oil I am using, Rotella 15W40. I am going to switch back to Rotella synthetic 5W40 and should def be easier to start. big diff between 5 and 15 cold weight.

 

Mine is definitely fuel, but I have to wait another month or so when I can look into it.

 

Hey there, I blew up my motor 3 years ago. swapped a new motor in and it took forever to get it started... it floods and blows black smoke out.... but push start the car and it starts every time.... I just checked 2 of my cam sensor it reads within the limits 1545/1524(other sensor) ohm I am guessing they're Hitachi?

Anyhow I just got a burr up but to get the car so it will start so I can get it retuned. and then sell it.

Here are the culprits I am looking into:

cam sensor
Map sensor
ignition switch
crank sensors
starter
Wiring.....

two codes I have 1320 and 1105

I havnt gotten too far in yet......

car is 555/emanage/15psi v-2


Lemme know your guys thoughts...

every once in a while if you mess with fuel pump fuse.... ie shutting pump off. I can get it to start with the key.... It almost seems like it wants to flood out... like the computer or emanage or combination is telling the injectors to fire and giving it too much fuel.....

I dunno still diggin into it......

Oh and once car is started it drives as advertised..... fast.... damn thing just wont start... LOL

Thanks for any input... and I will keep digging and let you know what I find.

 

cam sensor - I tried a different one
Map sensor - Haven't tried it (doubt its the issue)
ignition switch - Checked its fine it doesn't have any wear
crank sensors - I tried a different one
starter - Swapped, helped out for a while, then symptoms came back.
Wiring..... That's a beast, but I don't think its the issue.

Hook up you laptop to the EU and trace the map and see where its highlighted when the car is cranked. Make adjustments in that area by remove a crap tune of fuel. I noticed in my car once it was flooded/ just cranked and cranked I would take out my fuel pump fuse and it would fire up. Then i'd just put the fuse back and drive on lol.

 

All troubleshooting done in accordance with FSM: faults 1320 and 1105

Ok started by trouble shooting ignition issue..... nothing found bad.

then started to look at map sensor before I got to far into that (because car needs to be started to check) I changed pace......... visually all vacuum line looked ok

Started looking at both crank sensors and cam sensor
1. Cam sensor Ohm within limits wiring looked ok and voltage was good
2. checked bell housing crank sensor: all checks good except for last step the voltage read with ignition on and sensor hooked up and checking pin 2 and 3 voltage while using screw driver... should read 0.0 and then 5.0 v. I am getting 11.7 v.... sensor is bad.... getting a new one tomorrow or day after
3. checked other cranks sensor and it is good to go... didnt bother checking the wiring..
4. let you know if the car starts....

side note: Maybe the crank sensor is the reason my motor went kaboom..... if that effects timing.... and it went to heck.... that could of been enough to create a lean condition and or mess timing up...

I still remember the cold december night when I did the infamous full throttle 15 psi, 3-4-5 gear high speed run and the car shuddered and I coasted and took it easy home...... car running and idlling fine, only time you could tell it was "missing" was under a load.....

Ever since then the car wouldnt start right....... ie....... even with new motor....

hope this helps you other guys out.... My lack of motivation to mess with the maxima over the last four years makes me sick....lol

Plus I still need to pull the blower off and change the stretched belt..... ackkkkk not motivated to do that either!!!

 

ahaha, I feel your pain with the supercharger belt....err did you get the car started or....

 

The only real problem I have now is COLD start up. I have to hold the gas down while i start it up, one crank and it turns over. If I didnt hold the gas, it would just die immediately. Its been like that since the larger injectors, even scaled down, and I have an IACV with a custom LARGE block at the throttle body. Still no go. But I have learned to live with it. It only does it if it sits all night. If I go inside after a drive, and come out it starts right up, no problem

Any of you guys have an extra Walbro on hand ? I was thinking of just having one in case mine Shi*s the bed one day.

-matt

 

Well put new new sensor in and re-checked everything as per the FSM and looked good. Car started, but really really rich!!! I have a fuel problem also, but I knew that too... My car needs tuned also...

Its almost like the injectors are just pumping too much fuel in as the car cranks and then it almost hydrolocks....

Anyhow I got the car started and drove it for about an hour.... shut it off and it barely started and as it was cranking and trying I was still getting the 1320 code.... and it was super "diesel" rich

Anyhown I am still digging and researching.... Not sure if I messed up a vaccuum line routing or something 3 years ago and thats throwing the fuel regulator off or what... I m still working on...

So my new plan of attack:
work the 1320 code first as per FSM
-Already checked the coil packs and condensor... all good to go
-Oh and while I am at it I am going to completely take the vacuum line/system on the drivers side motor off and replace with the one off my original motor and ensure the lines are routed correctly!! so it will be a few days easy before an update.
Then its on to the Fuel pressure regulator/control module if I dont find anything...

 

Sounds good, my headache is coming out in a week.

 

Your problem is you forgot to sand down the trans bell housing and engine block mating surfaces. The starter isn't getting the proper ground that's why it push starts fine. There's plenty of threads on this and the only real fix is to pull the trans and sand down those mating surfaces.

 

I had that issue first time around and cleaning up the transmission surface helped. But the issue came back slowly until I was having a hard time starting the car. Then I replaced a starter which fixed the issue. But I still have this odd start and sometimes takes longer then normal. Though its been a while so i'll know for sure next weekend when I crank it for the first time in a while.

 

will adding ground wires to the starter help with this or is resanding the surface the only way to get a proper gound for the starter?

i have done EVERYTHING but r/r the tranny. i dont want to spend the money to do this and then have it not start after. im worried, do i bite the bullet or just part my car and junk it because it wont start?

 

Did you have your trans removed at some point?
Adding ground wires will help in certain cases but I don't recommend them.
It's far easier to pull a trans then dealing with the headache of chasing down and checking components and adding ground wires.