S/C emanage Starting issues...
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 576
From: indiana
S/C emanage Starting issues...
Hi,
Upfront I apologize for the following word vomit of information to follow... I have scoured the forum for info... and still do not have a definitive solution.
I havent been on the forum for about 6 years... Basically heres my deal.. about 7 years ago I popped my motor....
Side bar I am running 97 maxima 5spd
stock VQ 3.0
555 cc
emanage blue both harness and psi sensor
technosquare ecu tons of timing pulled off the top end...
2.62 pulley FMIC
all the other usual goodies
never ever used a FPR
back to my issue the car was tuned and with the A32 maf and emanage blue, I had way too much timing on the top end (and wasnt running the ignition harness) so I got a Technosquare ecu that had a bunch of timing pulled out from the top end. The car was tuned at a shop in michigan. Anyhow the car ran and started great for years... then I blew a hole in a piston.. So now the problem is this, I got a 96 low mileage motor and swapped it in the car.... and I used all my sensors.. the car would not start.. just kept flooding the engine with fuel... I finally got the car started by pulling the fuel pump fuse then putting it back in once the car fired...
First I have noticed the 97 to 96 engine vacuum harness is different... I had the 96 vacuum bar and sensors installed after the motor swap not my 97 vacuum bar/line....is this a possible culprit with starting?
heres the funny thing car usually wont start but If I push start it and pop the clutch it fires right up and runs fine. with the exception the car runs like crap in boost it bucks and what not....needs re tuned....
Ok so years have gone by and I have started working on the car again. I have ohmed everything and trouble shot and tested everything..... sensors, clutch interlock etc...I have thoroughly gone through all my emanage connections! all Golden... I have spark on cranking, I have fuel car runs decent but needs a tune... but it just wont start without pulling the the fuel pump fuse... I even put about 5 different grounds from the body to the engine...I then pulled out my 96 technosquare ECU and put the stock 97 one back in.... same problems.... no luck on starting? I also installed the ignition harness. still have spark etc.... battery is in the trunk.
Right now the motor is out and after all the reading I have done, the only maybe I had left was a corroded bell housing.. and yes it is corroded... and so I am looking for some other ideas....? kinda seems lame to me that a corroded bell housing to tranny connection would cause this.... especialy with all the grounds I put on the engine.
It will be a few months before I put the motor back in I am polishing and show blinging the whole engine and engine bay out... nobody wants to pay anything for these cars so I guess I might as well just keep it another 10 or so years!!! LOL so push starting a car and popping the clutch to start a car is not very showy!!! I have also completely taken the entire vacuum bar and every vaccum sensor off. It will all be re-done.. anyhow all the 97 vacuum parts and EGR etc will be put back in FSM fashion. the car is going to be put back together meticulously and I am not in any hurry I plan on taking all winter on the project... maybe even go into the summer.... ultimate goal is the car will still be quick like it was before but now it will be insanely polished and show quality... I plan on taking it to to shows.
IDEAS.... on the starting.. also I am planning changing the emanage blue out in favor of the ultimate... and I have soldered and wired in a z32 maf, the car ran with it fine....but as previously stated it would not start with the key and without pulling the fuel pump fuse......
on a separate note: if you guys could pm me some z32/emanage ultimate tips, and settings I would appreciate it. I plan on trailering the car to AMS tuning in Chicago for a full tune once this install is done.... but I would like to ensure the car starts and can be driven (no boost) before I trailer it there...
I am assuming it will be in the 350hp but probably less than 400 range. the old motor with 25 degrees of timing pulled and 15psi i made 335hp on my 160k motor.
Thanks.
Upfront I apologize for the following word vomit of information to follow... I have scoured the forum for info... and still do not have a definitive solution.
I havent been on the forum for about 6 years... Basically heres my deal.. about 7 years ago I popped my motor....
Side bar I am running 97 maxima 5spd
stock VQ 3.0
555 cc
emanage blue both harness and psi sensor
technosquare ecu tons of timing pulled off the top end...
2.62 pulley FMIC
all the other usual goodies
never ever used a FPR
back to my issue the car was tuned and with the A32 maf and emanage blue, I had way too much timing on the top end (and wasnt running the ignition harness) so I got a Technosquare ecu that had a bunch of timing pulled out from the top end. The car was tuned at a shop in michigan. Anyhow the car ran and started great for years... then I blew a hole in a piston.. So now the problem is this, I got a 96 low mileage motor and swapped it in the car.... and I used all my sensors.. the car would not start.. just kept flooding the engine with fuel... I finally got the car started by pulling the fuel pump fuse then putting it back in once the car fired...
First I have noticed the 97 to 96 engine vacuum harness is different... I had the 96 vacuum bar and sensors installed after the motor swap not my 97 vacuum bar/line....is this a possible culprit with starting?
heres the funny thing car usually wont start but If I push start it and pop the clutch it fires right up and runs fine. with the exception the car runs like crap in boost it bucks and what not....needs re tuned....
Ok so years have gone by and I have started working on the car again. I have ohmed everything and trouble shot and tested everything..... sensors, clutch interlock etc...I have thoroughly gone through all my emanage connections! all Golden... I have spark on cranking, I have fuel car runs decent but needs a tune... but it just wont start without pulling the the fuel pump fuse... I even put about 5 different grounds from the body to the engine...I then pulled out my 96 technosquare ECU and put the stock 97 one back in.... same problems.... no luck on starting? I also installed the ignition harness. still have spark etc.... battery is in the trunk.
Right now the motor is out and after all the reading I have done, the only maybe I had left was a corroded bell housing.. and yes it is corroded... and so I am looking for some other ideas....? kinda seems lame to me that a corroded bell housing to tranny connection would cause this.... especialy with all the grounds I put on the engine.
It will be a few months before I put the motor back in I am polishing and show blinging the whole engine and engine bay out... nobody wants to pay anything for these cars so I guess I might as well just keep it another 10 or so years!!! LOL so push starting a car and popping the clutch to start a car is not very showy!!! I have also completely taken the entire vacuum bar and every vaccum sensor off. It will all be re-done.. anyhow all the 97 vacuum parts and EGR etc will be put back in FSM fashion. the car is going to be put back together meticulously and I am not in any hurry I plan on taking all winter on the project... maybe even go into the summer.... ultimate goal is the car will still be quick like it was before but now it will be insanely polished and show quality... I plan on taking it to to shows.
IDEAS.... on the starting.. also I am planning changing the emanage blue out in favor of the ultimate... and I have soldered and wired in a z32 maf, the car ran with it fine....but as previously stated it would not start with the key and without pulling the fuel pump fuse......
on a separate note: if you guys could pm me some z32/emanage ultimate tips, and settings I would appreciate it. I plan on trailering the car to AMS tuning in Chicago for a full tune once this install is done.... but I would like to ensure the car starts and can be driven (no boost) before I trailer it there...
I am assuming it will be in the 350hp but probably less than 400 range. the old motor with 25 degrees of timing pulled and 15psi i made 335hp on my 160k motor.
Thanks.
Nice, another old skool member.. glad to help out a fellow 10+yr owner.
simple diagnosis: there is way too much fuel going in.
Eblue is the ****tiest tuning system i ever used, hte it with a passion, I'd take a VAFC-2 over it anyday. but you should stick with EU or upgrade to AEM FIC if you are technical enough and understand what is happening with fuel timing and what to tune it for yourself.
what is your fuel system setup?:
Walbro 255HP pump -> external puel pump -> FMU? (disk size? 12:1 8:1 4:1?) -> FPR (stock or adjustable? rising rate? gauge or no guage? does the gauge read anything?) -> injectors
^^^^^Which components do you actually have installed?
you cannot pull more than 20degrees of timing with EU.
a stock WOT timing map would read 20-25 degrees advance at 4500-6500 rpms.
simple diagnosis: there is way too much fuel going in.
Eblue is the ****tiest tuning system i ever used, hte it with a passion, I'd take a VAFC-2 over it anyday. but you should stick with EU or upgrade to AEM FIC if you are technical enough and understand what is happening with fuel timing and what to tune it for yourself.
what is your fuel system setup?:
Walbro 255HP pump -> external puel pump -> FMU? (disk size? 12:1 8:1 4:1?) -> FPR (stock or adjustable? rising rate? gauge or no guage? does the gauge read anything?) -> injectors
^^^^^Which components do you actually have installed?
you cannot pull more than 20degrees of timing with EU.
a stock WOT timing map would read 20-25 degrees advance at 4500-6500 rpms.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 576
From: indiana
Ok...
Nice, another old skool member.. glad to help out a fellow 10+yr owner.
simple diagnosis: there is way too much fuel going in.
Eblue is the ****tiest tuning system i ever used, hte it with a passion, I'd take a VAFC-2 over it anyday. but you should stick with EU or upgrade to AEM FIC if you are technical enough and understand what is happening with fuel timing and what to tune it for yourself.
what is your fuel system setup?:
Walbro 255HP pump -> external puel pump -> FMU? (disk size? 12:1 8:1 4:1?) -> FPR (stock or adjustable? rising rate? gauge or no guage? does the gauge read anything?) -> injectors
^^^^^Which components do you actually have installed?
you cannot pull more than 20degrees of timing with EU.
a stock WOT timing map would read 20-25 degrees advance at 4500-6500 rpms.
simple diagnosis: there is way too much fuel going in.
Eblue is the ****tiest tuning system i ever used, hte it with a passion, I'd take a VAFC-2 over it anyday. but you should stick with EU or upgrade to AEM FIC if you are technical enough and understand what is happening with fuel timing and what to tune it for yourself.
what is your fuel system setup?:
Walbro 255HP pump -> external puel pump -> FMU? (disk size? 12:1 8:1 4:1?) -> FPR (stock or adjustable? rising rate? gauge or no guage? does the gauge read anything?) -> injectors
^^^^^Which components do you actually have installed?
you cannot pull more than 20degrees of timing with EU.
a stock WOT timing map would read 20-25 degrees advance at 4500-6500 rpms.
Ok I have:
555cc
NO FMU
Stock fuel regulator
Walbro HP 255
Emanage Blue with both harnesses and psi sensor, (Planning on getting the Emanage Ultimate)
I also put in a Z32 MAF (need to know Settings for EU)
I have a Fuel PSI Gauge at Idle I (been awhile) think its 38-40 psi
(It has always read that way and raised as boost climbed) But I had a technosquare ECU that I yanked.
MY guess was that when I swapped motor I might have had some vacuum lines in the wrong places? I never did confirm that. I also guessed not having a n adjustable FPR was a starting issue?
Heres the sad part:
The motor and tranny are out and I am currently polishing everything under the hood to extra shiny! everything else is getting spray chromed and I am replacing a lot of stuff... Basically I decided instead of selling it for a huge loss or parting it out for a huge loss I'd just make it retarded show quality. the cars has high miles but it is completely rust free even underneath. Its never seen winter since I bought it in 2004.
So It will be awhile until I get to working the bugs out:
What I am looking for are P/N Manufacture Suggestions for A FPR if you think I need it? And whatever else you guys suggest.... and explain the AEM Set up? I am technical enough to get a car running.... As far as tuning it I gave up on street tuning... I'll be taking it to Chicago for a tune.
Thanks,
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