my wheels have a polished lip on them and recently i have notice that the polish is kind of coming off. So i was wondering if there was a way to repolish the lip

thanx
PEST

 

I don't understand. If the lips are really polished, they are bare aluminum, there is nothing to come off. If they are polished and clear coated, then the clear coat is peeling off. Any wheel repair shop can strip and refinish the wheel if this is the case.

 

Sorry to bump this up, but I'm just wondering if I can restore the polished lip by sanding it with 1000 grit, then 2000 grit, and get some sort of rubbing compound to bring the polish shine back? I'm not sure if this is for the Detail subforum or not, but I ran a search and this came up.

 

wet sand with a very very very fine grit. then polish the hell out of it using mag/aluminum polish to bring it to a shine. this sounds about right to me. someone else chime in to confirm.

 

I think 2000 is the finest I can get from local autozones. If I just buff it with the aluminum polish after the wet sand, would it be only short term shine? Should I clearcoat it after the polish buff or just clearcoat after fine wetsand?

 

after losing the clear coat ,I wetsanded starting with 600 and working my way up to 2000 and then finished it with a good mag wheel polish to a brilliant shine and then clear coat ,and I must say ,they came out pretty nice.

 

been googling and found this.http://www.924.org/techsection/wheel_refinishing.htm

So bartown, did you clearcoat after polishing it with mother's mag?

 

Has anyone tried the method from the above link? I have the same problem with my clearcoat peeling.

 

I'll throw my $.02 in here. I recently bought a used set of the old style 300Z wheels (4 lug), oh....about 8-9 months ago. I wanted them for my '97 Altima. Anyway they looked like pure ****. I spent months sanding, sanding and more sanding. No matter how fine the grit was, there were still sand marks. I used 2000 wet sand as my final step BTW. After was all done and said, I was searching for some shifter ***** on a Datsun website and stumbled across a kit for around $169 that chemically stripes the old cc. The kit comes with 7 different chemicals for each step of the refurbishing process, including a clearcoat. I said all that to say this: knowing what I know now after the fact, I would've spent a few extra $$$ to have a perfect finished product.

 

Did you sand down to the bare metal?


Also... you can't bondo rashes on a polished lip right?

 

Yes, I went to bare metal, and used two coats of Mothers aluminum polish before using a product called X-I-M 900 CLEAR COAT. I've never heard of anybody using bondo on rashes. There might be some body men on here that will know more about using bondo on aluminum.

 

bondo is a body filler meant to be sanded, primered and painted over. i dont think anyone uses bondo on wheels. it will probably fly off from rotations.

 

Well... I donno... I've seen a few people on the web using bondo putty to repair the curb rashes. But I dont think we can apply this to polished finish wheels.
http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/w...uff-repair.htm

 

Polishing your wheel is one of the easiest thing to do if you use the right product check this out: http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/alpolkit.htm

I have polished a set of Cattman headers:http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...roject-12.html

Dont loose your time sanding wheel, you'll never get a better result than using the product I suggested, you can use an electric drill you will be amaze with the result.

Good luck.

AA

 

The only problem I see using finishing putty, is when you will change your tire that will probably come off when they put it on the machine that remove the tire. From the pics the result is great but trust me you better use metallic putty wich will be much more resistant.

Soldering the scuff is the best but you will have to repaint the entire wheel.