Orgullo

iTrader: (47)

I know with a 19x9.5 a 40mm offset in the rear is perfect with no issues of rubbing and I'm dumped. Question really comes to the front. I've always ran a 19x8.5 in the front.

What is the suggested offset for a 19x9.5 in the front on a 5.5 gen max? I was thinking a higher offset which should bring the wheel in and maybe get a 5mm spacer to push the overall wheel out. Make sense? I want to run a 255/35/19 on all four corners.

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks

Orlando

MorpheusZero

iTrader: (10)

No.

Offset is offset, and typically the lower offset the wheel, the more concave/deep dish/cooler it looks.

Unless you wanted say a +50 but only had choices of +45 and +55, in which case the only way to get +50 would be +55 with a 5mm spacer.

But to be honest with high offset wide wheels up front I'd start to worry about rubbing the strut. You may have a bit more room up there in 5th gens than us 4th genners do but it's still a valid concern.

BLACKonBLACK98

iTrader: (42)

offset is offset. the only thing a higher offset with a spacer will do is give you less lip.

also consider, with our suspension type, the lower you go the more strut clearance you loose.

solution: stop looking for quoted numbers and measure.

PulsarGTS

iTrader: (6)

Just try fitting you rears on the front and go from there. I think your gonna have rubbing problem if you want to keep them in the finders at all.

MorpheusZero

iTrader: (10)

This is untrue; the strut body will always be in the same position relative to the spindle unless you use camber bolts.

BLACKonBLACK98

iTrader: (42)

you win again my friend. after reading your reply and playing back the scenario it was more of a wheel size/offset issue for me rather than geometry. one element that i believe is relevant to drop vs. clearance though is where the inner lip of the wheel moves in relationship to the most outward point of the strut/spring assembly (lower spring perch).

how would camber bolts affect this? treating the strut assembly/spindle as one piece because of the solid mounts, even moving the upper mount would not change the relationship from strut to spindle, correct?

Orgullo

iTrader: (47)

I don't have the wheels any longer so I can check to see. When I first got them, back in the day, I put the 9.5's on the front. I never rolled them like that but just moved the car back and forth. The brake pad pin that is on the side of the caliper pinged off on the spokes on the wheels. I didn't actually get under there to see how close it was to the strut... etc.

However, the 20's that I had on were close to the struts in front. They were 20x8.5 with a 38mm offset. Never had any issues of rubbing the front.

Like you said, I guess I'll have to get in there and measure. Thanks

MorpheusZero

iTrader: (10)

What do you mean by "moves?" This stays the same regardless of drop, once you have the strut to spindle bolts in the spindle and strut body are locked together.

Yes, but camber bolts don't move the upper strut mount. They adjust the angle of the spindle to the strut via eccentricity that allows play in the strut-to-spindle connection. Then when you torque them down they hold whatever position you had them in.

I was just noting that in order to retain the same camber at different ride heights using only camber bolts you will be adjusting the strut to spindle angle.

BLACKonBLACK98

iTrader: (42)

speaking in regards to coilovers. the spring perch/total length adjustment changes the distance of the perch to the spindle. it caused an issue with my setup, although i keep forgetting my setup does not apply to the other 99.99% of orgers.

well i finally decided to find out hth camber bolts work. what you were saying before about adding negative camber via camber plates and positive camber via bolts actually makes a little sense now. why did you come to the conclusion there would be no benefit?