Edge

Anyone Convert the AC to R134a ? The system is not cooling as well as it used to (not bad after 29 yrs ) . I am trying to decide between re-charging with uber priced R12 or retrofit R134a. I just know the basics of conversion replace: recalibrated orifice valve, new drier, clean system of old oil and replace with r134a (PAG ?)oil, vacuum and recharge. Seems like recharging with the R12 is cheaper overall and better if the system is basically OK.

delerium75

I've still got a good working R12 system in my '87 but my other cars have been converted to 134. From what I remember of the one I had done a couple years ago, ideally you want to use a 'double end cap' PAG oil. They do come in different weights. If you suspect a leak in your system right now, check the obvious places... Schrader valves, joints, etc. for evidence of a leak. The guts of a Schrader valve can be changed out on a system with a full charge. The other thing I learned is that the molecules of R134a are smaller than the molecules of R12. So similar to a plastic pop bottle going flat over its shelf life, a system designed for R12 but using R134 will gradually lose its charge too. That's what my shop told me and from my own reading up, that does appear to be true.

lowpost99

Yes this is true. Our systems are designed to leak over time and using 134a means you leak a bit faster, but more like between seasons. You can change out the drier and Schrader valves easily and refill with NP. Replace the compressor when it finally dies with a 134a one later, or do now if you score super deal on compressor.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

What in the world makes you think this?