bc992164

I've watched countless videos online about suspension noise and cannot seem to find a sound that resembles the noise coming from my vehicle.

Video Here:
Video of Noise

I replaced the Struts about 1 year and 1/2 ago. They started making the noise about 6months after replacement.

The suspension doesn't bounce when I push down on the front end. It pops back and stays still. (*My test for bad struts)

It seems to make noise when going over bumps, no matter the size.

Please help me diagnose this.

If I were to guess. It may be something related to the Coil(s) that wasn't replaced when my struts were.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Check the nut on top of the strut shaft, center of the mount.

dypkny

Def check the hardware on the struts...could be bad bushings on the struts...when you changed the strut did you use the same hardware?

bc992164

I let a shop change the struts. I had problems with an alternator they changed at a later date. Feel like I need to change them again.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Check the strut bearings. Open the hood and look at the strut. The nut should be dead center in that opening. As another test, shake the car from side to side (not bounce up and down) and watch the nut on top of the strut should not move at all.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

My guess would be LCA bushing or sway bar bushing.

bc992164

So I missed this post as I am not here frequently.

I actually noticed they were both off center when looking down from the top. My better judgement that this didn't look right, and based upon a few recommendations above purchased two new struts.

The installation went well, besides buying a cheater bar, and a power wrench to try to get the nuts off.

95% of the noise is gone! Thanks everyone.

I've noticed I have some other issues going on.

1. Leaky outer tie rod.
2. What appears to be a bent end on the sway bar link
3. slight vibration/knocking sound when accelerating. (I assume some of this is due to a misfire, and loose control arm bushing combo. Like maybe the rough misfire causes the bushing to knock.

I hit 300k last night. I'm thinking i replace the control arms on both sides, and sway bar link, and maybe outer tie rods.

JoshG

damn congrats on 300k, not many people achieve that on their cars.

KP11520

I just did my LCA's, Sway Bar End Links and Sway Bar Bushings!

If you're there, do all three.

I used Moog Problem Solver LCA's. An absolute pleasure to work with and no hassles of bushings and ball joints needing to be removed and new ones pressed in. High quality across the board.

I also used Moog Sway Bar End Links. Part #: K9824. Same result and recommendation.

I used Energy Suspension Sway Bar Bushings (black). Part number: 7.5118G

When I combined the End Links and Sway Bar Bushings purchase I found on Amazon, it was also enough to get free shipping and very low prices. Search and you'll have the same results.

For the LCA's, do a Google search on the part numbers and see where you can get them delivered for the least. Something like $66 to $70 each plus shipping. Part #'s: CK620352 & CK620353.

Good luck and you're going to like the results. I mean, who doesn't like a nice tight new front end?

bc992164

Thanks so much. I've been picking how to best attack this.
I have on order a Moog LCA and Ball Joint Combo:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and I have ordered
Energy Suspension Front Control Arm Bushing Set
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Will I have trouble getting this Bushing in? I thought it would be easy since the part comes without one. I'm foreign to suspension work (besides) struts.
Ill take your advice on the other parts too. Just still researching where to buy.

KP11520

If you are going with Moog LCA's use the CK line and NOT the RK line. There are very few bad reviews on the CK line and way too many on the RK line. They are NOT the same. And if you spend the extra money on the CK line, skip the ES Bushing set. They are noisy and IMO, the Moog bushings are more expensive and better. And the big one is more substantial. Just like original (that lasted 300K miles). No pressing involved or removing new ones from a new and not as good LCA. AND the CK line better Ball Joint has a grease fitting to keep them healthy longer as well. Not the RK line.

To remove the old bushings, or new in the case of using the RK line, most burn them off with a torch and then clean the frame and press the new ones on with a vise. The big one that gets pressed on the end, I'm not sure how that gets pressed on.

Save yourself a lot of unnecessary hassle and just get the great value of the CK62035X LCA's and be done with it. They are outstanding.

I hope this helps!

bc992164

Thanks, I ordered the CK line. Didn't think they would sell different control arms. Glad you wrote back. I assume you saved me tons of hassle.

KP11520

There's a video on YT (read the link below) that shows how to do much of it without pulling your axle. However, if the Ball Joint is original, you are not going to get an open end or even a flarenut wrench to move the nut. So, it's either pull the axle or cut the top of the ball joint stud and nut right where it meets the steering knuckle with a Sawzall (using a Lennox Gold 24 TPI blade and lubricant), or find a nut splitter you can get in there. I did mine at 186K and I didn't want to disturb the axles and hubs and bearings. With 300K, I'd try to avoid taking them apart too.

Here's the thread I did on it: https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ball-oons.html

I hope this helps! Best of Luck!

bc992164

Man your helping a lot. So im getting ready to order that flarenut wrench.

Just to be clear it is primarily for removing the nut at 1:56? Which you rounded off.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBLyB18Pq4k


Even then it took a bit of work to get the ball joint to move. Any chance you think of getting some type of pickle fork that works as a hammer with your electric impact wrench? I was thinking that type of tool may help with removing the ball joint. But the concept is in my head and not sure if they exists. I have a good electric impact wrench rated up to 1,100 ft-lbs.

Do you think I should be replacing inner/outer tie rods at same time?
I really don't know if I should be asking this question as one of my inner tie rods has some fluid on the boot. The other one is dry, should I wait on it or do both also at this time?

Do you know the bolt sizes needed for this repair. I almost rounded a bolt in no time with my impact wrench last time I changed my struts. "Didn't have right size socket on"

KP11520

With 300K on that ball joint, Don't get a flare nut wrench unless you just want one. LOL It's not going to break it loose.

If you are leaving the axle in like in the video (yes, that nut at 1:56), you can't use a torch to help loosen the nut and obviously, you can't get it from above with a 6 point Impact Socket and Impact Gun........

So, it's either going to be a Sawzall or a Nut Splitter. (or pull the axle and use the Impact setup above).

And to pull the Ball Joint out after removing the nut however you decide, the only tool you'll need is a Hammer! Just keep hitting the area that circles around the Ball Joint stud. The weight if the LCA will pull it down (if you pull the 6 bolts and End Links first) Just keep banging (hard).

I didn't do the inner and outer tie rods and boots even though the boots are trashed. The alignment shop Guy didn't mention needing them and he's one of those perfectionist guys. Maybe next Summer just to have the whole thing finished!

The Inners are a PITA and need a special tool! At this point, I'd probably use Moog again! So far, home run every time!

I can't stress enough how much trouble removing the Ball Joint Nut is with the Axle in. Have the gamut of tools ready because you will most likely need them. Don't forget the Torque Wrench and it's a 36MM socket for the Wheel Bearings Nut, if you have to go that route.

You might also want to replace the plastic cap that goes on the end of the bolt that limits how far the steering turns if it is broken and/or gone.

Also, before putting the wheels back on, make sure the Rotor guard didn't get bent closer to the rotor. It might be fine when going straight, but if it's close, you'll hear it when you turn.

Do it in nice weather and start early. Enjoy them for the next 300K! LOL

KP11520

And what electric Impact Gun has that much Torque? Mine has 350.

Bolt sizes:

27MM for the Nut for the Link Pin Bush that slides into the LCA Bushing
22MM for the 6 bolts holding the LCA to the sub Frame
Ball Joint Nut was 13/16 for the tightest fit. (on my car) not all the same supposedly.
Moog End Link Nuts were 15mm
Sway Bar Bushing Nuts were 14mm
I forget what the two different grease nipples needed, but they weren't the same size. A deep socket will help there.

Driver's side Link Pin Bush Nut needs to be torqued to 108 ft pounds OUT of the car. No socket will fit when on. Passenger side is clear. All 6 bolts need 108 ft pounds too. Water based Lube on the big bushing and either pound it in with a mallet or use a jack to press it in for an easier install of 3 of the 6 bolts. DON'T cross thread the 6 bolts.

bc992164

You have me scared now; What part of the video shows this? I'm kinda lost at

• I already bought the 13/16, aghh. Well it was still on clearance only $7.xx dollars using the in-store delivery option.
  
• Milwaukee M18 1/2"High Torque Impact Wrench 2763-20 claims and community tested videos show 900+ , I first purchased the model that looks exactly the same, but it didn't have near the power of this one.

Can you elaborate a bit?

KP11520

The big end bushing on the new LCA's is new and gets pressed into a cavity in the bottom of the car. Because it's new, it goes in tight. The lube just helps. That video showed moving a used LCA and skipped over that part of reinserting it. It went straight to torquing it in.

The plastic cap isn't important and you can get back to it later without removing the wheel. You'll see when you get there.

Maybe the Flare Nut wrench will get it done for you. Just have plan B ready if it doesn't! Plan B will be utilized!