AT Transmission Slipping, 2nd to 3rd
#42
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Well nuts...my tranny started slipping again this morning. 2nd to 3rd gear only at this point. I checked the fluid level and it was ok, maybe a 1/4 of a quart low.
I doubt it's the solenoids since it has been less than a year since I replaced them. Not showing any codes and there were no residual codes when I used my scanner. Maybe the speed sensor or TCM at this point? I'm trying to find the part number and price for the speed sensor, but can't find it. Anyone have that info?
Cr*p...I just had the axles, hubs, one engine mount, one LCA, and all tires replaced two months ago.
I doubt it's the solenoids since it has been less than a year since I replaced them. Not showing any codes and there were no residual codes when I used my scanner. Maybe the speed sensor or TCM at this point? I'm trying to find the part number and price for the speed sensor, but can't find it. Anyone have that info?
Cr*p...I just had the axles, hubs, one engine mount, one LCA, and all tires replaced two months ago.
#44
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I'm thinking of just dropping the $100 on the speed sensor (revolution sensor) and see if that takes care of it. If not, oh well at this point...it will be $60 to $70 just to drop the pan because of the syn ATF. Might as well go revolution sensor since my ATF is still bright red.
Doesn't look like the TCM as that is more of a 1st to 2nd slip issue.
#45
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So...really weird, the slipping seems to have stopped the past few days. At worst, it is intermittent.
Any ideas? Maybe something in the fluid or loosened up and clogged?
I'm wondering if should even drop the pan at this point.
Any ideas? Maybe something in the fluid or loosened up and clogged?
I'm wondering if should even drop the pan at this point.
#47
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Just hoping my Max can make it till the end of this year....of course, I said that last year.
#48
Well, you've done everything you could for that thing to last, and I think it might be an electrical problem because they're not known to tank even when used aggressively with the 3.5L, and all the signs saying it's fine, AT cooler, synthetic fluid and of course the color of he fluid says a lot.
#49
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Well, you've done everything you could for that thing to last, and I think it might be an electrical problem because they're not known to tank even when used aggressively with the 3.5L, and all the signs saying it's fine, AT cooler, synthetic fluid and of course the color of he fluid says a lot.
My max has shown electrical bugs here and there since the guys that installed the remote start did a crappy job on the wiring. Hmm...
#53
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New? No. I don't even think the 2k2 and 2k3 auto tranny's fit a 2k or 2k1. However, older models tranny's do fit the 2k and 2k1. I think back to 97, but I don't know for sure. I'm sure someone else can confirm that.
#55
Most namely because of the CAN system on the newer models.
#57
Hmm....I wonder if...I ran a ground line from my negative terminal on the battery direct to transmission housing to take care of a starting issue. I wonder if that may be impacting the transmission? I'll disconnect it and see if that impacts the transmission.
My max has shown electrical bugs here and there since the guys that installed the remote start did a crappy job on the wiring. Hmm...
My max has shown electrical bugs here and there since the guys that installed the remote start did a crappy job on the wiring. Hmm...
#58
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That's part of the problem...if you drop the pan you commit to the money for the ATF which isn't cheap. And if you still don't fix the issue you drop it again to change the solenoid and that's another chunk of change. That's why I just took the chance on replacing the solenoid when I dropped my pan. I'm glad I did because my pan looked pretty damn clean and my fluid wasn't cooked so I figured it was the solenoids.
#59
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If you can be without the car for a while consider dropping pan first to see what it looks like. If it's clean and your fluid isn't cooked then it's probably your solenoids. You can order solenoids at that point, but you'll be without the car until you get them in.
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