VQ35 cam spacer dimensions
#41
The other question I answered in the previous post. The versatility of the spacers is that you can dial in any amount valve overlap you want by making the angle between the big dowel and the small dowel to the desired spec.
Exhaust timing is unchanged, of course, since the relation between the exhaust cam and the main timing gear remains unchanged.
Last edited by Stephen Max; 05-22-2012 at 12:32 PM.
#44
They are still able fit over the centering shafts, yes. The length of engagement is reduced by 3 mm, obviously, but there is still plenty of length to engage with the outer timing gear.
Last edited by Stephen Max; 05-22-2012 at 06:51 PM.
#45
Really!? Mine had no length left...and I measured the spacers at only 2.6mm thick. I wonder whats wrong.
#46
You have the exhaust side secondary timing gear under the main timing gear. The secondaries are different thicknesses, with the intake secondary thinner than the exhaust secondary.
#47
Is this true of the JWT spacers too? I have those, and just assumed all 4 were the same..
#48
Thanks man! That was very helpful and I'm glad I asked you and you responded b4 I installed it!
#50
Actually, now that I think about it, when I put both secondary gears on the camshafts with the spacers, both the intake and exhaust cams didn't have anymore of the camshaft coming out...this is weird, maybe I have four exhaust secondary gears and that's why it wasn't spaced to begin with.
Here is a few photos of what I am talking about with the 2.6mm camshaft spacers, there is no more of the camshaft sticking out for the primary gears!!:
Here is a few photos of what I am talking about with the 2.6mm camshaft spacers, there is no more of the camshaft sticking out for the primary gears!!:
Last edited by Maximeltman; 05-23-2012 at 05:33 PM.
#51
Actually, now that I think about it, when I put both secondary gears on the camshafts with the spacers, both the intake and exhaust cams didn't have anymore of the camshaft coming out...this is weird, maybe I have four exhaust secondary gears and that's why it wasn't spaced to begin with.
Here is a few photos of what I am talking about with the 2.6mm camshaft spacers, there is no more of the camshaft sticking out for the primary gears!!:
Here is a few photos of what I am talking about with the 2.6mm camshaft spacers, there is no more of the camshaft sticking out for the primary gears!!:
#52
Oh...
I thought the VQ35 intake gears were all in one. (secondary mated to the primary)..
What should I do? This is how the motor came, btw...
Maybe delete the spacers altogether then?
Thanks.
Last edited by Stephen Max; 05-23-2012 at 07:34 PM.
#53
Btw, I accidentally hit edit instead of quote in your post above, which is why it says I edited it. I apologize for that.
#54
Yes.
[/QUOTE]If so, then in order to have compatibility between the 4th gen ecu and the cam position sensor, you have to remove the vq35 timing gears and chains, and replace them with the vq30 timing gears and chains.[/QUOTE]
This was a 3.5 prepped for a 4th gen.
[/QUOTE]You also have to replace the vq35 timing covers with the vq30 timing covers[/QUOTE]
Yep, these are 3.0 timing covers!
[/QUOTE]and there are a few other things you have to take care of. When you put the vq30 secondary timing gears on the vq35 cams, there is an alignment problem with the water pump and the crank timing gear, which is why you need the spacers. Along with the spacers you will have to either drill new dowel holes in the intake cams (for the reason I gave earlier), or you can get the cam adapters that have the indexing features (shown earlier in this thread) instead of drilling the intake cams. If you need a set of cam adapters with indexing features, I can make you a set. PM me about that.[/QUOTE]
These are HR cams, and they appear to be very close in timing to the 3.0 cams..I don't think I can drill them or otherwise!
[/QUOTE]Btw, I accidentally hit edit instead of quote in your post above, which is why it says I edited it. I apologize for that.[/QUOTE]
No prob LOL I should apologize to you for the trouble!
[/QUOTE]If so, then in order to have compatibility between the 4th gen ecu and the cam position sensor, you have to remove the vq35 timing gears and chains, and replace them with the vq30 timing gears and chains.[/QUOTE]
This was a 3.5 prepped for a 4th gen.
[/QUOTE]You also have to replace the vq35 timing covers with the vq30 timing covers[/QUOTE]
Yep, these are 3.0 timing covers!
[/QUOTE]and there are a few other things you have to take care of. When you put the vq30 secondary timing gears on the vq35 cams, there is an alignment problem with the water pump and the crank timing gear, which is why you need the spacers. Along with the spacers you will have to either drill new dowel holes in the intake cams (for the reason I gave earlier), or you can get the cam adapters that have the indexing features (shown earlier in this thread) instead of drilling the intake cams. If you need a set of cam adapters with indexing features, I can make you a set. PM me about that.[/QUOTE]
These are HR cams, and they appear to be very close in timing to the 3.0 cams..I don't think I can drill them or otherwise!
[/QUOTE]Btw, I accidentally hit edit instead of quote in your post above, which is why it says I edited it. I apologize for that.[/QUOTE]
No prob LOL I should apologize to you for the trouble!
#55
Hmmm. I confess I have been out of the loop with regards to the latest VQ35 swap procedures. But I have not heard of being able to use the VQ35 secondaries instead of the VQ30 secondaries. Maybe someone else can verify, but that seems to be a mistake on the part of the person doing the prepping. Then again I could be totally wrong.
Last edited by Stephen Max; 05-24-2012 at 05:20 AM.
#56
Hmmm. I confess I have been out of the loop with regards to the latest VQ35 swap procedures. But I have not heard of being able to use the VQ35 secondaries instead of the VQ30 secondaries. Maybe someone else can verify, but that seems to be a mistake on the part of the person doing the prepping. Then again I could be totally wrong.[/QUOTE]
You have to use the 3.0 secondaries too.
#57
Maximeltman, I don't see how it is possible to use the VQ35 secondaries. As you have already pointed out, there is no shaft left to mount the VQ30 primary gear.
How did the motor come to you? Did it have the VQ30 primaries bolted on, or just as you have shown in the pictures?
Fortunately, it is a pretty simple operation to remove the VQ35 secondaries and replace them with the VQ30 parts. Just be sure to do it by the book so you don't mess up cam timing.
How did the motor come to you? Did it have the VQ30 primaries bolted on, or just as you have shown in the pictures?
Fortunately, it is a pretty simple operation to remove the VQ35 secondaries and replace them with the VQ30 parts. Just be sure to do it by the book so you don't mess up cam timing.
#59
Okay, so maybe the intention is to use the VQ35 secondaries without spacers, but it seems to me that you can't do that for some reason. It has been too long since I did a VQ35 conversion. Maybe primary chain alignment between the primary gears and the water pump and crank timing gear is an issue. At any rate, have you talked to the guy who did the prep work about it?
#60
^PM sent. I know that without the spacers, the timing gears seemed 2-3mm out of alignment with the crank gear, but the guy that I bought the motor from said it worked fine. But while I have it apart ,again, I want to be sure it's correct!
#61
It may work fine for a while, but a misaligned roller chain will wear faster. The question then becomes, how long until you need to replace the chain?
#62
I hope to see this VQ35 secondary thing cleared up, because I read in one of the writeups that they could be used (along with the secondary tensioners), but just this week when I converted my 4th engine, I saw no way to do that. I thought I was missing something! Did not matter, because I still had my VQ30 timing components.
#66
I think at that point it is irrelevant. either way, you need 3.0 tensioner. The engine I am building now has all of the 3.0 timing components. it seems to be the easiest thing to do.
Because I don't have a 3.0 engine (heads) to reference, I am still confused about the extra oil passage that is on the 3.5 but not the 3.0. Best I can tell, that oil feed on the 3.5 is JUST for the variable intake timing, so it is not needed with the 3.0 timing setup (although the oil passes through the secondary tensioner, it does not seem to feed them). Where I get confused is the 3.0 tensioner have the same "pass through" holes on them, but why would they be there at all when the 3.0 does not have the variable cams?
Because I don't have a 3.0 engine (heads) to reference, I am still confused about the extra oil passage that is on the 3.5 but not the 3.0. Best I can tell, that oil feed on the 3.5 is JUST for the variable intake timing, so it is not needed with the 3.0 timing setup (although the oil passes through the secondary tensioner, it does not seem to feed them). Where I get confused is the 3.0 tensioner have the same "pass through" holes on them, but why would they be there at all when the 3.0 does not have the variable cams?
#67
Prepping my rebuild 3.5L engine now.. It has a set of JWT cams in it (3.5L), and I was trying to make sure I set the timing properly.
Based on drawings of the cam lobes of the 3.0L, as compared to the 3.5L, it would seem that the intake cams need to be drilled almost exactly where the small hole is on the intake cams. (One is off by 3.1deg, the other is 2.75). Is that 3 degrees all that critical? Has anyone tried to just put a new timing mark on the gears 180deg from the original? I guess that may not work because of the 3.0L cam sensor... (I think I just answered my own question).
What is interesting about the drawings, One of the exhaust cam's seems to be 6 degrees off (between the 3.0 and 3.5) yet, I have not seen anyone talk about re-drilling the exhaust cam.
Based on drawings of the cam lobes of the 3.0L, as compared to the 3.5L, it would seem that the intake cams need to be drilled almost exactly where the small hole is on the intake cams. (One is off by 3.1deg, the other is 2.75). Is that 3 degrees all that critical? Has anyone tried to just put a new timing mark on the gears 180deg from the original? I guess that may not work because of the 3.0L cam sensor... (I think I just answered my own question).
What is interesting about the drawings, One of the exhaust cam's seems to be 6 degrees off (between the 3.0 and 3.5) yet, I have not seen anyone talk about re-drilling the exhaust cam.
#68
Since cam timing is referenced in crank degrees and the crank spins 2x the cam speed, that 3* turns into a 6* crank timing advance. I say advance since googling pics of the intake cam end looks like it's a shorter distance between the holes in the clockwise direction if the larger hole is at the 12 o'clock position.
I would have to search here for what 180* from the larger hole is to begin with timing wise.
I would have to search here for what 180* from the larger hole is to begin with timing wise.
#69
OK, so I'm reviving an ancient thread, but I have a few questions. First, the intake spacers/adapters are different than the exhaust ones, correct? If so, which ones are which in the previously posted CAD drawings? I really would like a few more specifics on this, especially since I haven't been able to get ahold of Stephen Max just to purchase some.
#71
@ schmelly fart
OK, so the CAD drawing posted by sanjuro is the one I want? And the spacers that JWT sells would work for the exhaust cams? Thanks for your help!
http://jimwolftechnology.com/custome...asp?PartID=491
OK, so the CAD drawing posted by sanjuro is the one I want? And the spacers that JWT sells would work for the exhaust cams? Thanks for your help!
http://jimwolftechnology.com/custome...asp?PartID=491
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