1998 with a 3.5 swap
#41
That's the only thing that has me wondering WTF? I almost wish I was running the same tires at the track both time so I would know if I truly was loosing power. But at this point I don't know if the increase in MPH was going to a smaller wheel tire combo....or if I really did gain power but it did not show up on the dyno. I know the butt dyno feels like the car is slower with the SSIM... With the stock manifold on when I would hit 4k the car would push you back in the seat....that feeling is not as drastic with the SSIM....not sure if I really lost power or if the power delivery is smoother.
#42
Could the knock sensor be pulling timing even if I am not getting a knock sensor code? I checked codes after the dyno and I am just showing the usual stuff....no knock sensor code.
#43
Did you check timing??? Install a resistor... Check timing, then run the KS and see if it changes....
#44
Will an OBDII scan tool showing timing? I don't have any sort of fancy engine management. I only have a JWT ecu and a VAFC-II I was not in the car during the dyno. Since I was not throwing a k/s code I assumed I would getting all of the timing I was supposed to. The car was heat soaked....but it was heat soaked the time before too....so I don't think that's it.
#45
Will an OBDII scan tool showing timing? I don't have any sort of fancy engine management. I only have a JWT ecu and a VAFC-II I was not in the car during the dyno. Since I was not throwing a k/s code I assumed I would getting all of the timing I was supposed to. The car was heat soaked....but it was heat soaked the time before too....so I don't think that's it.
We have been having a problem with one of the cars ive been working on, and oddly enough to test the theory He removed the knock sensor from its location and wrapped it in a towel. in doing so the car roared back to life where it had a flat spot prior from 1500-3500 rpm. And I say that to say that we did not have a knock sensor code at all.
#46
You would have to use something like the uprev cypher to log the timing. Sadly. I can check mine through datalog on my utec using jeffs software, but again, thats not an option with what you have.
We have been having a problem with one of the cars ive been working on, and oddly enough to test the theory He removed the knock sensor from its location and wrapped it in a towel. in doing so the car roared back to life where it had a flat spot prior from 1500-3500 rpm. And I say that to say that we did not have a knock sensor code at all.
We have been having a problem with one of the cars ive been working on, and oddly enough to test the theory He removed the knock sensor from its location and wrapped it in a towel. in doing so the car roared back to life where it had a flat spot prior from 1500-3500 rpm. And I say that to say that we did not have a knock sensor code at all.
Does the car you are working on have aftermarket cams?
#48
#49
I put a 470k ohm resistor in to the knock sensor circut this morning. They car is running well and pulling strong. I cannot tell if that's what the problem is or not. I would like to make it back to a track before the season is over before I go back to the dyno, because it's a cheaper was to figure out if I got my power back.
#50
why did the rpm cut off sooner? I know this sucks, but the best way to do this is to dyno as is without the ssim w a proper afr. swap the manifold on the dyno. dyno and tune it again and compare best results. thats how i did it. cost me an hour on the dyno but this way you can truly compare apples to apples
#52
Initially I lost power with the SSIM when it was the only mod difference. Needed some tuning/manipulation/supporting mods to gain it back.
Completely different situation being an auto 5.5 g with functioning VIAS (No BOP), but semi comparable.
Completely different situation being an auto 5.5 g with functioning VIAS (No BOP), but semi comparable.
#53
I hear what you are saying, but the Ssim did not work well for me. I don't have anyway to directly control timing but by looking at my losses I'm not sure it would have mattered. I know ajcools brother also lost power with the Ssim. Maybe it has something to do with ditching the variable cam timing when you swap a fourth gen...who knows
#54
Hey Carson, what clutch are you running? I'm wondering if a relatively new OEM 5th gen clutch will handle 260+ whp/wtq.....
Did you ever put the knock sensor back in? I'm also wondering if I should just put a resistor in place of the KS in the 3.5 I'm going to install as a preventative measure.
Did you ever put the knock sensor back in? I'm also wondering if I should just put a resistor in place of the KS in the 3.5 I'm going to install as a preventative measure.
#55
Hey Carson, what clutch are you running? I'm wondering if a relatively new OEM 5th gen clutch will handle 260+ whp/wtq.....
Did you ever put the knock sensor back in? I'm also wondering if I should just put a resistor in place of the KS in the 3.5 I'm going to install as a preventative measure.
Did you ever put the knock sensor back in? I'm also wondering if I should just put a resistor in place of the KS in the 3.5 I'm going to install as a preventative measure.
ACT 6 puck sprung clutch, I think its rated for 400 some odd foot pounds...don't remember right now. You need to remember my car was put together with the supercharger in mind...some of the parts I have installed could be considered over kill for just an n/a engine. I personally would not use a 5th gen clutch. Not sure the tq rating for the fifth gen clutch but it was put on a car that put out about 200ft/lbs, and you would be putting it on an engine that is rated over 250ft/lbs out of the box. If I were in your shoes I would do the ACT solid disc clutch, I think it would be a good match for you. I had it on my car when it was 3.0 supercharged and it never slipped and was not too hard to drive, the pedal is a little heavy but I like it that way.
I am still running a resistor, I need to plug the k/s back in...I keep forgetting to do it. I only did the resistor mod because I knew my car was dialed in well and did not want to take the chance of the car pulling timing while I was at the track. Since my idle is not a smooth as a stock maxima and also doing a burn out can be a little bumpy, I did not want the computer to pick up any perceived knock. I would suggest running a knock sensor at least until you get everything figured out.
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