Consult-II Owners...
08-23-2011, 05:25 PM
#1
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Consult-II Owners...
Requesting someone be generous enough to workout a deal to let me use their Consult-II to fix my idle problem. (Don't want to give dealer 100$ for 10 min digital inspection). We'll work out shipping/insurance/deposit...whatever it takes.
Post here if you own one, very few do.
Post here if you own one, very few do.
08-28-2011, 09:15 PM
#5
Yep, Copy and pasted this from uprev's website,It's worth the money IMO,Used via laptop with obd to usb cable,Also can use as a scan tool to check or clear codes
- Target Idle RPM
- +/- 2 degree static timing adjustment
- Cylinder power testing
- Clear Learned Fuel settings
- Manual control of BCM functions, ie. Windows UP/Down, Activate Locks, Wipers, Lamps, etc.
- Fuel Pressure purge
- Ethanol Adjustments (if vehicle is equipped)
- Coolant Test
- Engine Speed - RPM
- Throttle Position Sensor
- Vehicle Speed
- MAF Sensor
- Calculated Load Value
- Oxygen Sensor
- Ignition Timing
- Accelerator Position
- Wide Band A/F Voltage (equipped vehicles)
- Coolant Temperature
08-30-2011, 03:18 PM
#10
A little OT: http://www.righttorepair.org/about/faq.aspx
It's legislation that will require auto manufacturers to make "proprietary" tools, software and diagnostics available to the aftermarket. If this bill passes, you'll be able to get a Consult-II type tool off eBay for the same price as any GST.
I need a Consult-II for my 3.5 swap, but the dealer won't assist me and the used Consult-II are on eBay for over $4K.
It's legislation that will require auto manufacturers to make "proprietary" tools, software and diagnostics available to the aftermarket. If this bill passes, you'll be able to get a Consult-II type tool off eBay for the same price as any GST.
I need a Consult-II for my 3.5 swap, but the dealer won't assist me and the used Consult-II are on eBay for over $4K.
08-30-2011, 03:21 PM
#11
A little OT: http://www.righttorepair.org/about/faq.aspx
It's legislation that will require auto manufacturers to make "proprietary" tools, software and diagnostics available to the aftermarket. If this bill passes, you'll be able to get a Consult-II type tool off eBay for the same price as any GST.
I need a Consult-II for my 3.5 swap, but the dealer won't assist me and the used Consult-II are on eBay for over $4K.
It's legislation that will require auto manufacturers to make "proprietary" tools, software and diagnostics available to the aftermarket. If this bill passes, you'll be able to get a Consult-II type tool off eBay for the same price as any GST.
I need a Consult-II for my 3.5 swap, but the dealer won't assist me and the used Consult-II are on eBay for over $4K.
08-30-2011, 03:31 PM
#12
08-30-2011, 03:47 PM
#13
The BCM has limited functionality with the A33B ECU, and only allows ABS codes to be read. TCM & CAN data also work, but only the AT Maxima uses the CAN lines in the A33B, and there are only 2 of them.
Cipher uses the Consult interface on the A33B ECU.
09-05-2011, 07:53 AM
#17
I am confused what you need a consult for.
You want to check the timing at idle? An OBD scanner can do that. You can't edit a 4th gen ECU, if you bump the timing; that will be lost once the car is restarted.
As for the idle, just adjust from the IACV. Check the 4th gen forums on how to adjust the base idle.
You want to check the timing at idle? An OBD scanner can do that. You can't edit a 4th gen ECU, if you bump the timing; that will be lost once the car is restarted.
As for the idle, just adjust from the IACV. Check the 4th gen forums on how to adjust the base idle.
09-05-2011, 10:00 AM
#18
09-05-2011, 11:38 AM
#20
09-08-2011, 11:58 AM
#22
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I am confused what you need a consult for.
You want to check the timing at idle? An OBD scanner can do that. You can't edit a 4th gen ECU, if you bump the timing; that will be lost once the car is restarted.
As for the idle, just adjust from the IACV. Check the 4th gen forums on how to adjust the base idle.
You want to check the timing at idle? An OBD scanner can do that. You can't edit a 4th gen ECU, if you bump the timing; that will be lost once the car is restarted.
As for the idle, just adjust from the IACV. Check the 4th gen forums on how to adjust the base idle.
I've gone through the check list of high idle symptoms and everything checks fine. Only thing I cannot check is the ECU. The consult will determine what's wrong at idle, and can change it right there if its electrical.
(Note: When I had my NATS keys reprogrammed, my 00vi was still raw. Something might have happened where they reset idle and change the settings. I'm guessing because he had trouble connecting to my ecu and was doing all sorts of crap. )
09-08-2011, 01:25 PM
#23
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You cannot change the base idle speed or timing map on a 4th gen ECU.
The consult will do you no good.
Shadyone - Put the original manifold back on the car, make it completely stock once again. If the idle doesn't return to normal, you might have a ECU issue.
I still think something isn't right with your 00VI install. If you've got everything closed, (TB and IACV disconnected) the car should stall dead. If it doesn't, then your getting air into the intake track somewhere. This has nothing to do with the ECU.
The consult will do you no good.
Shadyone - Put the original manifold back on the car, make it completely stock once again. If the idle doesn't return to normal, you might have a ECU issue.
I still think something isn't right with your 00VI install. If you've got everything closed, (TB and IACV disconnected) the car should stall dead. If it doesn't, then your getting air into the intake track somewhere. This has nothing to do with the ECU.
09-08-2011, 01:59 PM
#24
09-08-2011, 03:32 PM
#25
09-10-2011, 08:41 PM
#26
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You cannot change the base idle speed or timing map on a 4th gen ECU.
The consult will do you no good.
Shadyone - Put the original manifold back on the car, make it completely stock once again. If the idle doesn't return to normal, you might have a ECU issue.
I still think something isn't right with your 00VI install. If you've got everything closed, (TB and IACV disconnected) the car should stall dead. If it doesn't, then your getting air into the intake track somewhere. This has nothing to do with the ECU.
The consult will do you no good.
Shadyone - Put the original manifold back on the car, make it completely stock once again. If the idle doesn't return to normal, you might have a ECU issue.
I still think something isn't right with your 00VI install. If you've got everything closed, (TB and IACV disconnected) the car should stall dead. If it doesn't, then your getting air into the intake track somewhere. This has nothing to do with the ECU.
And whats bad about it is that when in Drive, it the pulled timing causes it to idle low @ 590rpm and shakes the car.
Still no vacuum leaks. Reverting to stock is not a option at the time and will cost me 80$+ in supplies/gaskets.
09-11-2011, 06:36 AM
#27
You cannot change the timing, once you turn off the car the ecu goes back to "stock" settings. W/E ecu timing changes you make in consult only last in that session of the ecu ie, when its on. Once its off those changes are lost.
09-12-2011, 10:20 PM
#34
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I just want to know why it's not closing the iacv. Like I said, it idles at 1300 with TPS disconnected and it's because the iacv stays wide open. I know bcos I plugged the iacv from it's mid box measured air source and it would idle at around 500 rpm. Heck even a new iacv from rock Auto had the same results!
09-13-2011, 01:21 AM
#35
I just want to know why it's not closing the iacv. Like I said, it idles at 1300 with TPS disconnected and it's because the iacv stays wide open. I know bcos I plugged the iacv from it's mid box measured air source and it would idle at around 500 rpm. Heck even a new iacv from rock Auto had the same results!
It seems that you are SURE the IACV isn't being closed by the ECU, right? But it closed previously? What mods or work have you done? Have you checked to see if the ECU is sending an output to the IACV? And that the ground circuit to the IACV is good? Oh I now I see you put the 00VI on your car? I'd definitely be checking all of your electrical connections. It seems you checked vacuum leaks. The ECU will prob throw codes for a sensor input that was wonky, but the ECU doesn't usually throw codes if an actuator isn't operating as that's an ECU output that isn't monitored.
Jeez I am all confused because I didn't see what kind of car you have and what mods you have done. But, if you do have a 1999, then the link to that $25 Consult-I tool that Clashez shared would be something worth looking in to. My 1997 Maxima had both the OBD connector and the 14 Pin Consult-I connector.Look here for more info: http://www.blazt.biz/blog/nissan/72/...sult-or-obdii/
The Consult-I should be able to give you more in-depth info on what your ECU is doing. I am not a Consult-I expert, but I did get to see a Consult-I used on my 1995 200SX many years ago, and it was able to show a lot more info than an OBD scanner can. You should be able to monitor whether or not the ECU is in control of the IACV, and if not, what may be the problem that causes the ECU to not close the IACV.
09-13-2011, 03:52 PM
#36
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I am not following this. How is it that disconnecting the TPS is a method of troubleshooting the IACV? I think previously it was mentioned that if the throttle plate was closed completely, that the idle would be high if air was finding it's way in through other means, such as IACV. The TPS is just a input sensor for the ECU.
It seems that you are SURE the IACV isn't being closed by the ECU, right? But it closed previously? What mods or work have you done? Have you checked to see if the ECU is sending an output to the IACV? And that the ground circuit to the IACV is good? Oh I now I see you put the 00VI on your car? I'd definitely be checking all of your electrical connections. It seems you checked vacuum leaks. The ECU will prob throw codes for a sensor input that was wonky, but the ECU doesn't usually throw codes if an actuator isn't operating as that's an ECU output that isn't monitored.
Jeez I am all confused because I didn't see what kind of car you have and what mods you have done. But, if you do have a 1999, then the link to that $25 Consult-I tool that Clashez shared would be something worth looking in to. My 1997 Maxima had both the OBD connector and the 14 Pin Consult-I connector.Look here for more info: http://www.blazt.biz/blog/nissan/72/...sult-or-obdii/
The Consult-I should be able to give you more in-depth info on what your ECU is doing. I am not a Consult-I expert, but I did get to see a Consult-I used on my 1995 200SX many years ago, and it was able to show a lot more info than an OBD scanner can. You should be able to monitor whether or not the ECU is in control of the IACV, and if not, what may be the problem that causes the ECU to not close the IACV.
It seems that you are SURE the IACV isn't being closed by the ECU, right? But it closed previously? What mods or work have you done? Have you checked to see if the ECU is sending an output to the IACV? And that the ground circuit to the IACV is good? Oh I now I see you put the 00VI on your car? I'd definitely be checking all of your electrical connections. It seems you checked vacuum leaks. The ECU will prob throw codes for a sensor input that was wonky, but the ECU doesn't usually throw codes if an actuator isn't operating as that's an ECU output that isn't monitored.
Jeez I am all confused because I didn't see what kind of car you have and what mods you have done. But, if you do have a 1999, then the link to that $25 Consult-I tool that Clashez shared would be something worth looking in to. My 1997 Maxima had both the OBD connector and the 14 Pin Consult-I connector.Look here for more info: http://www.blazt.biz/blog/nissan/72/...sult-or-obdii/
The Consult-I should be able to give you more in-depth info on what your ECU is doing. I am not a Consult-I expert, but I did get to see a Consult-I used on my 1995 200SX many years ago, and it was able to show a lot more info than an OBD scanner can. You should be able to monitor whether or not the ECU is in control of the IACV, and if not, what may be the problem that causes the ECU to not close the IACV.
And the throttle body play is NOT supposed to be completely closed or so i've been told by members. It supposed to be slightly open to pass air, which is what the stop screw on the Throttle body is for.
Is this not standard FSM procedure? Tps disconnected = target idle should be 550. What am I supposed to assume is the problem when the idle wont drop from 1300 rpm and there are no vacuum leaks? (I've tested vacuum by plugging up the throttle body and pressurizing the intake manifold via a vacuum hose. The result was my engine is so sealed, the plug on the throttle body popped off. I even tested it with suction, and it held vacuum until vacuum was released.
09-14-2011, 12:30 AM
#37
You disconnect the TPS to perform the IACV relearn procedure. On a typical normal stock working maxima, with the tps disconnected, the cars idle should be around 550. (in other words, LOW). But this is not the case with mine. For me, it gets even Higher, up to 1300+ but never below 1300rpm no matter which way you adjust the idle adjustment screw on the IACV.
And the throttle body play is NOT supposed to be completely closed or so i've been told by members. It supposed to be slightly open to pass air, which is what the stop screw on the Throttle body is for.
Is this not standard FSM procedure? Tps disconnected = target idle should be 550. What am I supposed to assume is the problem when the idle wont drop from 1300 rpm and there are no vacuum leaks? (I've tested vacuum by plugging up the throttle body and pressurizing the intake manifold via a vacuum hose. The result was my engine is so sealed, the plug on the throttle body popped off. I even tested it with suction, and it held vacuum until vacuum was released.
And the throttle body play is NOT supposed to be completely closed or so i've been told by members. It supposed to be slightly open to pass air, which is what the stop screw on the Throttle body is for.
Is this not standard FSM procedure? Tps disconnected = target idle should be 550. What am I supposed to assume is the problem when the idle wont drop from 1300 rpm and there are no vacuum leaks? (I've tested vacuum by plugging up the throttle body and pressurizing the intake manifold via a vacuum hose. The result was my engine is so sealed, the plug on the throttle body popped off. I even tested it with suction, and it held vacuum until vacuum was released.
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