I was at KCIR on last Wednesday, I made one strong pass (13.41 ET), went back to trailer to park and maybe check plugs. Shut the car off, reset the CEL light (ususlly comes on with DR-mod), and the car wouldn't start. Finally winched it back on the trailer and came 90 miles back home.

Today, I verified that the car still won't start - no fuel pressure. There was the usual pressure surge when trying to start, but the pump doesn't run. I jumpered the pump at the relay and got normal pressure - still no start.

I connected a laptop w/DigiMoto and Elm interface to the OBD port, put the ECU into test mode and got blinky lights, but no data out, although the Elm blinked its green LED... I had an external battery pack jumpered on the main battery, and 12.6 volts at the fuel pump relay.

The dash lite shows 14-1 and 14-2 codes, repeating over and over. I can clear the codes with the ECU reset procedure.

I can't find the codes in any manual I've got. What the heck is wrong??? Is there anything else I can check? The car ran normally until I shut it off.

:

 

Security light on when you crank the car?

 

Yes - I said AHA! - the Immoblizer! and got another spare key that is programmed to that car and tried it. No joy - I followed the owner's manual instructions about cycling the key in the lock for 5 seconds on and 5 seconds off, then repeat the entire sequence. Still no luck.

Each time I turn the key to start and hold the key while cranking, the security LED comes on a solid red after 3 seconds and stays on until I turn the key off.

Is this important - or what should happen ???? The engine doesn't cough or sputter - just cranks on and on ...... the ECC relay is working fine - the '99 uses a DPST relay, and both sections switch 12 volts on when attempting to start...

 

i think the solid light is right, im pretty sure it blinks if its not programmed right.

did you say you HAVE constant fuel pressure?

 

Reading the '99 FSM, it says that after turning on the ignition, if the security led comes on and stays on, then the immobilizer has tripped, and you have a choice of trying the reset procedure with another known good key, or taking the car to a dealer for a date with their Consult programmer. I tried the reset process, but no joy. Since the car is still on the trailer, it's off to the dealer for me.

Nope, I don't have any fuel pressure except for the prime pulse when the car is first started - nothing after that. I did jumper the pump, and it ran normally and brought pressure up to normal, but the car won't start.

Kevlo911 had the right question - thanks.........

 

Yeah, I am pretty sure it needs to be reprogrammed.

 

Thanks again for the clue. I towed the car over to the local dealer this afternoon, so tomorrow they can look over the NVIS programming.


Edit: A funny thing: On Tuesday I talked to the dealer - their Consult unit was down and they had to send for a replacement module, so it will be one or two days more before I know...

 

but the thing is, if it is infact NVIS programming, why would it be tripped in the first place?

 

its happened before that it just goes bad for no reason and has to be reporgrammed. sometimes if you have it close to other chipped keys or magnets, or or or then it will mess it up.

 

so did you have it programmed yet?

 

[QUOTE=streetzlegend]so did you have it programmed yet?[/QUO

Not exactly - the dealer got the Consult in this AM, and scanned my car first - according to the service manager, my ECU is fried and possibly the Immoblizer module as well. Imagine that. A thousand dollars or more for a stealer to fix it. That's never happened before, right?

I can find the ECU in Car-Part.com and the immoblizer module on-line as well. Of course, without the Consult computer to program keys to the computer, nothing will work anyway.

I found a Consult interface module and cable on Ebay, along with the Nissan Consult software for PCs, for $68 plus shipping. It's already ordered. Now I can tweak my ECU - when I get it running again.



EDIT: I just "won" a '99 Immobilizer module off EBay, so with the PC Consult and a couple of used ECUs, maybe I can get the Beast From The East to run again......

 

well its good to find the problem, but wat makes me think the most is, what caused that problem? Why would an ECU just take a dump?

 

Beacuse it was going to be a really good track day, I guess..

The dealer guy - who modifies SE-R Sentras - , ran the analyzer yesterday and got all three keys synced to the Immoblizer, but the CPU still won't wake up. Weirdness. I'll trailer the car home today and see what I can learn about swapping in different CPUs and Immoblizer modules.

All things considered, I'd rather be at the strip.

 

OK - I got the car to start and run jest fine this afternoon. I had picked it up from the dealer on Friday nite, because I didn't want to spend $$$$$ for a factory ECU and maybe an immoblizer.

When I picked it up, the service manager had another '99 SE Maxima sitting next to my car - with the same problem! That car just went into Immoblizer lockdown for no good reason. There is a service bulletin on the subject, called "1999 MAXIMA NO START AND SECURITY LAMP ON WITH NATS DTC "ID DISCORD, IMM-ECM" Reference NTB00-019 Feb 21, 2000.

The dealer guy cleared the immoblizer and fixed all three keys so they would attempt to start, with no Security light showing, but still no start. Their Consult could not see the ECU, so he concluded the ECU was bad. Today, I started digging into the car, and first put the ECU into diagnostic mode with my screwdriver. It began flashing 5-long, 5-short, so the ECU thought it was healthy. Hmmmm.. I checked some ECC and ignition switch voltages - all OK when trying to start - but no fuel pump prime pressure.

OK - so I began running all the fuses, and found the fuel pump 15 amp fuse blown. I replaced it, and the car started right up.

Now the fuse was fine when I first started digging into this mess, so I don't know what happened later, but now I don't care! I've got my car running again. I'm baaacccckkkkkkk.......

 

haha, very nice!