Come to think about it, I had this issue before. Only I had my launch control activated with the EU. What would happen is when the car is moving it would activate, say if I stomp on it at 80km's it would activate at the set RPM and act like a limiter. But I never had the issue if the feature was disabled. This was on my other Maxima. Then when I brought it to my new Maxima when I was tuning for the first time (when it was auto) the launch control would just activate, when the car was moving!

The first time I installed it it was directly hooked up to the ECU harness, now I made my own patch harness. Again only happened when the launch control was activated via EU and the conditions where met! So I guess the EU is not getting a proper signal from the VSS?

But that's with launch control activated...I thought id mention this, maybe it will spark some insight.

 

Just try running without the launch control and see if the car reacts differently.

 

still does it without launch control. I'm thinking its the Auto ECU on a 5-Speed swap.

 

i've never experienced auto ECU causing any driveability issues. i really doubt that's it.

 

I'm literally out of ideas...I re-gaped the plugs at 0.31 (when the plugs where previously gaped I had 2 of them at 0.38) so might cause an issue. Any who at 0.31 but now the tensioner pulley was causing the belt to move (side to side). So I got a new bearing for that. Problem after problem.

No more track, so I'm just ironing out the issues for my dyno on the 30th of this month.

 

Possibly timing issue? It's like my starting issue is coming back. That's after driving the car for 30 minutes about 50kms traveled.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy2A5J40kaI

 

that starting issue is a lot like I had when I had a grounding problem. kindof a stutter in the cranking process. grounding issues could definitely cause misfire problems as well I'd say. have you tried removing the stock ground (the one that comes off the negative battery terminal and grounds to the chassis - making sure the connection is clean and free of corrosion, rust, paint, etc)? also consider adding a fairly good sized ground (like 4 or 8 gauge) to one of the starter bolts.

I battled a ground issue for a long time before I finally went to the audio store and just bought a couple feet of 8 gauge wire and some ring terminals and added about 4 grounds to my car. cost me about $15 (no need to go spend $150 on those grounding "kits").

 

^ +1 on the grounds

 

Ohh man I have 1 gauge going from battery to the frame. Still on the battery side I have 2 grounds in different locations going to the tranny. Then I have a ground on the chain cover going to the frame. I used 4 gauge wire.

Is there another one I should place somewhere?

 

^ I would clean all the connection points and move one to the starter but honesty you should be good with what you have ^

 

All connections where cleaned prior to the install. I have 1 more ground to change. Then its free for all.

 

OK, well i might of figured out one mystery.

So on the EU I have this option A/T shift point. It was set to 5000rpm and 90% TPS. Maybe this is what caused the "spark blowout"

 

So I've been reading around. Battery Voltage is 11.8 when the car is off. when at idle 13.8-14.1v

Might this be a problem aswell? Battery is from Cosco and is 3 years old. I'm also thinking the added strain of the supercharger will make it harder to start aswell?

Any suggestion on which battery to pick?

 

FWIW, last fall I had an occasional starting problem on the previous 3.5. Sometimes it would crank slow, or I would have to hit the key more than once. Turned out it was the starter motor going bad - I bought a new one from eBay for $60 and that fixed everything - plus I had a new battery I didn't really need...

 

Yah I did put another starter in, it was from my previous maxima but damn. I really want to think its a battery issue. They aren't an issue to install. Just don't know why this happens. Is it the added strain of the supercharger? Can I get a stronger starter?

 

I don't believe the supercharger would be much of a load when starting up. Have you tried jumpering your car to another car's battery and trying to start? Try to get the negative wire right on the block. If your battery was weak, there should be a change. If not, then a new - not rebuilt - starter would be next.

 

I haven't tried jumping the car after the newer starter was installed. I was going to drive down to get the battery tested and grab some oil for an oil change.

 

Battery tested out fine. Heck started nicely today, though the car did stall on me...Must be the cold weather and this 00VI. Dyno day set to next Wednesday! Gotta install the J&S and increase redline. Much to do!

 

AHAHAH **** my car. **** it to hell!

Drove fine all day, started fine this morning, went to get the battery tested. Tested fine. Started the car again, no issue perfect. Went home ate/showered and went to work. No issue.

11pm I'm done working, all I want to do is go home. Get in the car....

Noticed something weird, something that never caught my eye but may have always been like this. Turned on my lights, battery voltage went down from 11.9 to 11.5. Fine lights are drawing power. Went to start it a sec later and CLICK (from inside). Starter doesn't engage at all. I have no blown fuses in the car/under the hood. Swapped out the starter relay, jumped the car. Nothing. I checked my IGN switch while back and it was fine, not worn out at all. Lights are not dim, my high-beams are bright as they should be.

Tomorrow, I'll try to put a positive lead on the starter to see if it spins. If the **** doesn't spin Its my starter solenoid. If it starts it has to be fuse related? or might be IGN?

This car is pushing me in all the wrong places...I even set up a Dyno day next Wednesday for 2 hours >_<

I know this is in the wrong section, but I figured I have knowledgeable people in here so yah....

 

clutch sensor came undone from when it was converted to 5-speed...Its good to go now. Minus some hiccups on starts...