Slider

Hello this is my first post on these forums, I just bought a Maxima yesterday.

It's a '88 Maxima GXE. The engine looks clean, no leaks, except there's a small one from the power. Everything was fine, I drove it home 14miles. Except the top of the shifter (automatic) is a little loose, I don't think it's supposed to be like that, and you have to move it down a little into 2nd before going into drive or it won't engage and sit there as if it's still in neutral. The car right now has 96,000. The belt was squeaking (I think it needs to be changed), so I sprayed some belt dressing on the pulleys as a temporary solution. But after I started it up, my dad wanted to go for a drive to check it out, he put it into drive, but the car started shaking a little, and when he let go the car was just going unevenly stuttering, like one or more of the cylinders weren't working so right now it's sitting in the garage. When an injector went out in my dad's 98 Malibu it felt exactly the same so I'm guessing it might be the injectors.

How much do injectors cost for the maxima and how much would a mechanic charge to replace them? Could it be something else? Did this happen to anyone else?

Thanks for your help,
Mike

Nismo87SE

The shifter problem is just a simple as installing a new bushing. As for the fuel injectors get all of them replaced the labor should be the same. Actually see if the injector recall has been done to the car, if it hasn't you get new injectors + harness for free.

Slider

I think you got me wrong, it's an automatic. The top of it is loose, and it doesn't go into Drive unless you go down into 2nd and go back up to Drive, but that's not a problem since other than that the transmission seems fine.

How can I check if the injector recall has been done? Just call up any nissan dealer and ask?

GundamWZero

Yep, just call the nissan dealer. I had my injectors replaced for free, and I have an 86.

Brendan

my 87 had to be put into 2nd before first sometimes, but nothing came of it so i never did anythign about it. It was not a problem, so unless something else odd happens with it, i woudlnt worry about that first. goodluck

MaxWgn

iTrader: (1)

Nismo didn't get you wrong. There is a bushing for the auto shifter that will cause that problem. Also, you may just need to adjust the shift cable. The procedure for that is in the Haynes and Chilton books, in case your interested. The bushing in mine was replaced, but the cable is a little loose...I need to crawl under it again, and tighten it up a little.

max95q

iTrader: (10)

Its the Shifter bushing mine does that now too. you got to tap it back alittle to engage.

djsqueegee

hey, mine does that too...

Slider

Thanks for straightening out the shifter prob. I need to get myself a repair manual, I don't even have the owners manual.

Is there any way to check if the injectors are what's wrong? The car runs unevenly, like one or more of the cylinders aren't working.

Charles Bisel

I doubt there's anything wrong with your fuel injectors, you don't have a Chevy, you've got a Nissan, the parts on this engine are top notch.

The fuel injector recall was concerning fuel leakage that was a potential fire hazzard. I'd definitely call your local dealership up and get them changed if they haven't been already. Before I had mine recalled, I was smelling a strong odor of gasoline inside the passenger compartment. After they were replaced, the smell went away. I really didn't notice that much of a difference in performance or fuel economy. Well, there was a very slight increase in performance, but hey, compared to 14 year old injectors with a 100,000 miles on them, I guess you would notice some increase in power.

The only way that I know of testing the injectors is by actually pulling them out and seeing how they spray. But before you do any of that, pull out the ECU and check the codes. See if any sensors are bad or if the fuel mixture is rich/lean. You'll need a service manual or Chilton's manual to do the procedure and diagnose the codes. A bad sensor could certainly cause your car to run like sh*t.

My guess is all you need is a tune-up. Replace the plugs and if necessary the wires, distributor cap, and O2 sensor. You may also want to change the air and fuel filters at this time too. If for some reason that you have a bad injector or two (which I highly doubt), and the injectors were already replaced under the recall, you're looking at a $750-$1000 job.

-C-

Slider

Thanks for the help. It will be checked out on Saturday.

Slider

The cables for the injectors weren't connecting so 2 of the cylinders weren't working. Now it looks like there is steam or white smoke coming out of the exhaust and there's some kind of liquid coming out of the exhaust, coolant maybe. Anyone know what the proper oil pressure supposed to be? It was a little under the first line when I was driving. The first line is 40 right?

edit: What's the proper amount of oil for the car?

mach1

i've got the gasoline smell in the car also....maybe i should get mine checked and replaced.....cause they probably havent been.....but if they have already been changed how could i tell???

Slider

I went to the junkyard yesterday looking for some new injector cables. Got a rear lense, and instruction manual for an '87 (no more stupid questions from me ). Unfortunately the injector cables that I got didn't work for my car, I'll go try to find some good ones next week. But before I do that I think I'll call up some nissan dealer and ask about that recall.

mach1: I'm guessing you should just call up a nissan dealer

realtor

The same thing happened to me after I replaced the spark plugs (on my 87 max) and had to move the wiring harness to the injectors out of the way. One of them wasn't making a good connection and only worked intermittently. They are a bit** to replace because the clip that keeps them in place is very difficult to remove and even flies away as you do so.Good luck...:

jayfresh

Yo check it... I think I know what might be the problem. First of all get a complete tune-up (new platinum sparkplugs, wires, etc.).
Then get a oil change (which should be part of complete tune-up) get the high quality oil filter like K&N (they do make filters for this car, ask Checker)and high quality oil. This car should use either
10w-30 or 10w-40 (depending on tempatures). I recommend the new Motor One Fully Synthetic oil...the best thang in oil, regardless.

THEN, check with a good local mechanic to check your injectors. That is possibly the main reason your ride is shakin'. Look for loose wires and connections. Check if the harnesses are in place correctly. Loose wires, connections, and harness can cause your engine to shake like how ya said, also blown spark plugs could cause it to shake. After all those procedures are done ya might want to check your throttle adjustment...if ya car is "park" gear and the RPM's read below 1,000 rpm then ya need to adjust it to read evenly at 1,000 shortage of air (like ya throttle being constanty shut) could also cause ya ride do the Shake 'N Bake! If none of this works ya might wanna ask your local Nissan dealership for that recall. They also could help ya with ya problems because they are Nissan they could hook ya up in exactly what ya need, just hit 'em up with ya VIN.

Oh yeah! If ya gonna change your wires to the fuel injectors leave it to someone with expertise (unless ya know what ya doing). And don't replace them with old wires from the junkyard. That could not work or might lead ya to more problems....if ya in the process of replacing wires or anything else its good to use that opprtunity to replace with new high quality material (depending on ya funds). Like I said go to a Nissan dealership 'cause they got what ya need. Through the dealership may expense but it has the gear ya need that is hard to get and replaced. You could decide to get higher performance engine aftermarket parts like your sparkplugs & wires , because dealerships usually provide Stock versions. Depending on your decisions and your budget its up to you what to do. I'm hooking ya up with some notes. Also be aware that some of this would cost some dough. Good Luck.

Peace.

Charles Bisel

Don't use synthetic oil in your car, it'll easily leak through those old, worn out seals. Synthetic oil is made for newer cars that have between 5K and 75K on the odometer. It's a great oil to use when your car doesn't have a lot of miles on it, but you shouldn't use it on an older car unless you plan on changing your oil every 1500 miles.

If you want a good oil to use on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gen Maximas, I'd recommend Valvoline's Max Life engine oil. I'd also recommend their Max Life antifreeze and ATF too.

-C-

Slider

Everything with the car seems fine right now, except it's hard to start when the engine is cold, wonder how it's gonna be when winter comes. I'm a little slow about getting around to the recall thing, gotta find a nearby dealer, don't really trust some dealers, I'm afraid they'll screw something up. Anyways thanks for all the help.

Right now I have Pennzoil(sp?) in the car, should is switch over to the Valvoline Max Life?

Charles Bisel

No, you don't have to use the Max Life oil if you don't want to. It just has some additives that condition your oil seals to make them last longer. Any conventional oil like Pennzoil will work just fine in your car, you just can't use any synthetic based oils in an older, higher mileage engine.

Check out Valvoline's website at http://www.valvoline.com
They've got more info about their Max Life products and all of the awards that they have won and the benefits of using their products.

-C-

jayfresh

As a matter of fact there is no such thing that you can't use synthetic oil. It's just a bunch of BS myth. Check it...I use the new "Mobil 1 with SuperSyn", as well as my friends that happened to have a 87 Max, 90 Stanza, 01 Altima, 89 Max, and me 88 Max. Anyway, we all use this product. Any problems? NO. No leaks, nothing. Not even during the couple of years we've been using synthetic. To get more technical on this, here is some actual facts about Mobil 1 Synthetic:
(For more info check www.mobil1.com)

First off...Conventional oils come from crude oil that is pumped from the ground. Crude oil is made up of a twisted and jumbled mass of carbon atoms that form chains and rings of different sizes and shapes. Long chains of carbon atoms produce a thick viscous fluid that flows slowly. In an oil refinery, crude oil is separated into various stocks. These become the basis for lubricating oils and fuels. Thick tangled masses of carbon chains become asphaltic materials used in roofing tar and road work.

Mobil 1 is a fully synthetic motor oil for automotive engines. It is made from a combination of advanced, high-performance fluids, including polyalphaolefin (PAO), plus a unique package of additives, including the SuperSyn™ anti-wear system for protection under the most extreme use. Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ helps provide significant advantages over conventional motor oils, such as:

Anti-Wear -
Superior protection under heavy engine loads/stresses, such as hauling and towing.
Minimizing oil degradation.

All-Temperature -
Faster lubrication at start-up in low temperatures.
Superior protection at high temperatures.
Superior resistance to thermal breakdown.

Engine Cleanliness -
Superior protection against harmful deposits.
Cleaner running engines.

Engine Efficiency -
Greater resistance to oil oxidation (thickening).
Lower oil consumption under high-speed conditions.
Optimizing engine efficiency

All motor oils are made up of base oils and additives. In general, fully synthetic motor oils contain non-conventional, high-performance fluids. NO CONVENTIONAL OIL COULD MEET THESE BENIFITS.

Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ is available in five viscosity grades:
10W-30 – Higher-Mileage Vehicle Formula
5W-30 – Newer Vehicle Formula
15W-50 – Performance Driving Formula
0W-30 – Enhanced Fuel Economy Formula
0W-40 – European Car Formula

*10w-30 is the choice for a 88 Max

This unique motor oil features a new, proprietary SuperSyn™ anti-wear technology that provides performance beyond conventional motor oils, allowing Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ to exceed even the toughest standards of Japanese, European and U.S. automakers and the oil industry.

HERE IS ONE MYTH:

MOBIL 1 SYNTHETIC WILL LEAK OUT OF THE SEALS OF OLDER CARS.

Mobil 1 does not cause leaks. In fact, new Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ was tested in dozens of industry standard and OEM tests to prove its seal performance. It is fully compatible with the elastomeric materials from which all automotive seals and gaskets are made.

ExxonMobil engineers are wary of conventional oils that tout their use of additional seal-swelling agents. With extended use, these agents can over-soften engine seals, resulting in leaks. More to the point, an oil additive will not rejuvenate worn or damaged seals. The damaged seal may have been caused by a worn rotating metal component in the engine.

If an older engine is in good condition and does not have oil leaks, Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ provides the same advantages as when used in a new engine. ExxonMobil recommends taking measures to repair the leaks, then using Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™. ExxonMobil also always recommends following the automobile manufacturer's manual for the proper oil to use.

Well if ya still got beef with synthetic then stick with it! Stay with some cheap oil from Wal-Mart. All this 4-1-1 from Mobil 1 is a fact; something that regular 89cent oils can't achieve. So the choice is yours.

Peace.

Charles Bisel

Okay, first thing, never listen to the person selling the product tell you that it's okay for your car. I'd check outside sources first. I actually looked into this a few years ago when I first got my Maxima and decided that it was in my car's best interest not to use it.

True, using synthetic doesn't mean that it's definitely going to leak out your engine, but there is a possiblity that it can occur. The reason being is that an engine that has been used with conventional oil it's entire life will have dried up and cracked gaskets. The reason that you don't notice it and barely any oil leaks out through those dry, cracked gaskets is because when the conventional oil burns off, it leaves sludge, grime, and varnish in the engine and these deposits tend to fill the cracks in the gaskets.

Using synthetic oil will start to remove these deposits, hence leaving the cracks in the gaskets open for oil to leak out of. Also, the reason you may not be experience any leaks is because the makers of synthetic oils have started to add additives to their oil in order to strenghten up those old gaskets. So yes, those additives do work.

Synthetic oil is great and it does have all of the benefits that you mentioned, but it works best if you start out using synthetics after the first oil change and continue to use it. Like I said, there is a possibilty that it'll leak out of older engines, especially if they have over 150K on them.

-C-

Slider

I called the dealer, he directed me to 1800 NISSAN1 and the recall wasn't done so I'll try to setup a time for the dealer to do it. They only replace the hoses and the injectors right? Because my injector wires are screwed up. How much do you think a dealer will charge for the injector wires? Or will he have to give me a whole harness?

The car keeps having problems starting with the engine cold. It keeps cranking and cranking for around 7 secs. Then I'll stop wait a few seconds and then it'll crank for another 5 seconds while i press the gas a little this time, and then it'll start up. Not sure about the times there might've been a little longer. When the engine is warm or relatively warm it will start without any problems. I'm guessing it's because of the colder weather, because it didn't have that much problems in warmer weather. I also got a new battery recently, it's 550CCA, and I think 675CA. Not sure what's wrong with the car. I got new plugs, and the last owner recently changed the plug wires. I guess I'll have to go to the mechanic to check it out after I get the recall done.

I'll check into the Valvoline Max Life. It sounds like a good product.

Thanks for all the help everyone this is very usefull to me, since this is my first car and I don't know a whole lot.

jayfresh

First of all, using synthetic is NOT bad or impossible for this car.
But its a fact it depends on the conditions of your own engine, since every engine is different. If its really seriously bad in shape. Dirt on top of dirt, grim every where, worn out block, components & gaskets shot up, and with like half a million miles....then consider an other oil.

But as for the other side. Like in my case (represent!).
If ya have a clean healthy engine running, well taken care of, new parts with gaskets, and about 110k .....go get it! In other words, it won't really do harm. It boosts performance. Still not sure? Then go in between and cop your self some "synthetic blend". Lil' of both.

Well, Slider, hope ya get that problem fixed. It seems that the prob leads to the air/fuel system. Check all hoses, there's even hoses down in places that are hard to see. Especially where the throttle is at, there is a load of complex hoses there. Make sure they're not cracked, split, or loose. Same goes with wires. Good luck.

Peace.

Charles Bisel

Yeah, they do replace the injector lines in addition to the injectors themselves.

It's hard to say what could be wrong with your car. It could be that the air regulator is bad, it allows extra air into the engine to start it up when it's cold. Mine is bad, but it doesn't take that long to start the car. It occasionally stumbles and stalls and sometimes the idle is rough, but usually it starts up quick enough.

I'd check the fuel pressure, there could be a problem with the fuel pump or regulator. Another thing that I would check would be the AAC valve. The AAC valve controls the quantity of air entering the engine. It could also be your spark plugs or distributor cap. The fuel combusts quicker and easier when the engine is hot than when it's cold, which is why it could be something with the ignition system. Basically anything that controls air / fuel mixture in the engine could be the problem. Check your computer codes to see if any sensors are bad and if the air/fuel mixture is good. I'd check it when you start it up cold as well as when you start it up hot. You'll need a Chiltons/Haynes/FSM in order to do the procedure and decipher the codes. I believe there are some webpages that give the info that you need, but I don't know off hand which ones they are.

My guess is that the problem is either with the injectors (since you mentioned that) or that you need some new plugs. The other parts that I mentioned rarely fail on this car.

-C-

Slider

What's weird about it is when it starts up cold it idles at 800, and when the engine is warmer it idles at around 1100. Anyways I was talking about the injector cables(wires?), as in electrical cables not the fuel ones. Not sure if those are the proper names for them. I've heard that the dealer would have to replace the whole wiring harness, and it could be expensive for such an old car. The injector connectors are in pretty bad condition. I called the dealer up and I'll drop off the car on Monday, didn't mention the cables though, maybe they'll replace them, I'll see how the car runs when it's done. I also picked up a Haynes Manual . Will probably have the car ready on Wednesday but most likely on Thursday.

GundamWZero

You know, I thought that you would use a thinner grade of oil (like sae 30) during the winter. Am I right? I have tried that penzoil high mileage (got price raped) then when I was told that all it really do is reconditions the o-rings (and in time, damage them), I switched back to the regular stuff. But when I drove to Alabama this August (using SAE 30), I was getting very high temp readings from the gauges. Turns out that since it was about 80 to 90 degrees outside, and about who-knows-what degrees engine temp, my car actually drank up the engine oil! I the switched to SAE 40 somewhere in Illinois, and I didn't have that problem with high temps anymore. Maybe you need to just go to an SAE 30 grade of oil. Dosen't matter if its Havoilne, Mobile One, or a Schucks special, or its an natural grade oil or syn based. Your engine may get the shakes because your oil hasn't reached all your engine parts due to its viscosity. Thinner oil (SAE 30) dosen't glob up like the thicker oil (SAE 40 or 50) during cold weather. So, your engine heats up faster (SAE 30 will still protect the engine parts) in the mornings and may not have that problem anymore. You might need to check your ignition coil and distributor cap, just in case. Condensation in your distributor cap may be your problem too. Remember, you said your problems is in the mornings with your engine. You may have condensation in your distributor cap. I am no scientist, but if your engine is still warm after a days worth of running around, your engine's heat and the fast drop of the outside tempeture, may cause condensation in you distributor cap (its plastic, it will sweat).

Then again, I might not know what the hell I am talking about.............

Slider

I got the car back from the dealer 2 days ago (wednesday). They replaced, injectors + tubes, water hose, wiring harness, fuel pressure regulator, and the fuel filter all for free of course. The car still takes a little long too start but nothing horrible, no more than 10 secs. When the engine is warmish than it starts with ease. But as long as it starts I'm happy.

GundamWZero

I TOLD YOU GUYS, THE **** IS FREE!!!!!! THRER IS A RECALL ON 1 & 2 GEN. MAXIMAS!!!!! THOSE WHO HAVE FUEL INJECTOR PROBLEMS, AND IF YOU SMELL GAS, YOU BETTER CHECK YOUR LOCAL NISSAN DEALER OUT ASAP!!!! ( while it is still free, of course.... )