Got a few question on my 86se..

I recently replaced my clutch (slipping badly) with an "oem" aftermarket clutch. This aftermarket clutch just doesn't have the same feel depressing the clutch pedal as the original Nissan clutch did. Where-as the Nissan clutch was stiff and at times very tiring on the leg this "oem" one is too lite with hardly any resistance. Other than being lite it works as it should. Guess I should have got Nissan parts or ..... ?



I also had to replace a bad timing belt tensioner so went ahead and did a complete timing belt job. The Goodyear branded T-belt removed had 45k miles on it and looked as new. Waterpump and new seals completed the job. Guess I should have replaced that tensioner during the previous t-belt job under 120k mile? Original Nissan tensioner had 140k on it.



Just before the clutch and t-belt work I did, my car was having problems starting when cold. Parked in my garage too. It would not idle, give it a little gas and it would blog down and then stall out . Give it a lot of gas and it will rev up over 2k rpm. After a few revs it settle down and start to idle right. Then I was able to drive off as normal.

I checked to see if there were any codes stored and there were none.
Checked the CHTS and its wiring back to the ECM and it was good.
Throttle position sensor was good. Fuel temperture sensor and wiring to the ecm was good.
Replaced the fuel filter, checked the fuel pump pressure (37lbs) and it was also good. Checked the fuel pressure
regulator while changing the vacuum to it with a hand vacuum pump and it was in spec.

All these tests were done following the Factory service manual.

There are a few more things I need to check ..air regulator, pcv , egr valve, maybe should try some of that seafoam stuff I read about.


Usually when you turn the ign key to the on position, the fuel pump would turn on and then after 5-10 seconds it will turn off. For the last 6 months or so it does not turn off after 5-10 seconds. It did a few times act normal. I think the ECM controls this on-off function of the fuel pump. The FSM doesn't have a test to check this function. I'll check the pump relay to see if it's stuck in the on position. Could it be that the ECM is bad?


So if anyone had a problem like mine with a fix or any suggestions let me know.

Thanks , AL

 

well, the "feel" of your clutch isn't the clutch itself. I would check the cylinder first.

Tensioner, in my opinion, should be replaced everytime you change the belt. It's a pain in the *** job, so might as well.

Remember, you have a 23 year old car. Check ALL of you wiring that pertains to the fuel system, twice. I don't know where you live, but corrosive environments, like seaside and the midwest are hell on wiring. Get a multimeter and check for continuity.

Seafoam is kickass. I've used it in all sorts of vehicles. Old and newer.

 

Sounds like the AAC valve might be bad. It's the conical looking unit on the back center of the IM. It's very common for those to go bad and would cause the problems with the car running when cold. You can get one for $70 bucks, or you can do the mod that keeps the shutter open. I personally replaced mine. It was nice to start the car cold have have a high idle again.

S

 

Just to let you all know what got my car back to normal was to replace the AFM (air flow meter). Last nite I spend some time checking the AFM and its harness per the FSM. The AFM checked out good so I started to test the narness. Wasted lots of time because there was an error in the Factory manual. Did it my way and the narness tested good. Gave up for the nite.

This morning I decided it had to be the AFM even though it had an output signal. (no idle, strong gas smell, blogging down when you open the throttle) Still no ECM codes too.

Luckily I bought one (new remanu) on eBay 3 years ago for less than $30 , just in case I ever needed one. 20 minutes later turned the ignition key and it fired up as normal. Had to reset the idle screw and the screw on the Air Regulator Valve mod, as I messed the adjustments up when troubleshooting.

Now I hope my gas mileage goes up cause its been around 17mpg in the city here in San Francisco for the longest time. These hills here are not clutch friendly. This is my 3rd clutch (140k) mainly because of oil leaks messing them up. I still have an issue with vibration starting off from a stop. Maybe my motor mounts? Everything is new , Clutch Kit, New Remanufacture Flywheel, (it was easier to buy the flywheel $35 then find someone to reground my old one), and all the clutch hydraulics.

I did get an error code #11 a few times years ago. (Crank angle sensor) Erased it and never came back. I do have another distributor laying around somewhere, but I'm too lazy now.

Two cars done, one to go! 66 Mustang been out 3 years....need transmission seal and engine needs new freeze plugs will get it going. But really should have the engine and transmission rebuild. That's for another day............


Al