is it possible to swap my L24E ECU, distributor, and air flow meter for the L28E ones? or is there somthing else to it? i think my l24e is going bad and it seems that finding l28e parts is way more easy than finding the 1st gen max stuff.

 

yeah it is possible ive done the same thing to my 77 810 dat but i used a 1980 l28 ecu with o2 sensor. it requires the rewiring of the ecu plug (l28e ecu plug diff then l24e ecu) .. u dont need to change the distributor just the ignition module from l28e to the l24e distributor.. the l28e came with 2 ing. modules 4 pin and 2 pin, l24e came with just the 4 pin module... 2 pin will work with 4 pin/2 pin ecu's, 4 pin will only work with 4 pin ecu (the car will run is hooked up to a 2 pin but kinda laggy since the other 2 pins are for timing control by the ecu).. you do not need to swap out the AFM you can keep the l24e AFM. only diff between them is the spring tension adjustment (tighter on the l24 = less fuel loser on l28 = more fuel .... but for all this u need the ecu wearing diagram for both ecu's(Haynes manuals for both cars have them) ....

requerd items for swap:
1- ecu
2- ing module from l28e
3- l28e ecu plug
4- weiring diagram
5- knowing how to read a diagram
6- multi meter
7- passions

hope this helps

 

haha oh man, so i have to cut my ecu plugin off and rewire the l28 one on? luckily i have owned a 280z before so i do have both haynes books. would i have to get one from a z with o2 sensor? i can probably read my way through these diagrams, pretty sure its gonna be a b***h tho. also what and where is the ignition module? if it makes any difference i plan on installing a MSD 6AL i just got and already have the blaster coil. thanks alot

 

The Ing. Module is on the distributor it self its the lil black box looking thing.... Andyes you cn run a msd but your tachometer won't work you would have to get the msd adapter thing (don't know the part number) but it will have the tachometer working with that... I found a way around buying that peace but haven't written or drawn up the diagram to post it up... If your car 810 has an o2 sensor get a L28 ecu that has a 02 in it and if your car don't then you don't beef to get one but most 280zx have o2's. I find o2 better since its better on emissions and on fule so you'll pass smog better (I passed with 10% of the max allowed with my car)

 

yeah i was searching it up and found i need the msd tach adapter 8920, they say without it on the fuel injected motors it wont run. im still trying to figure out what exactly is wrong with my car but it just dies randomly and doesnt want to start back up, i have to wait then try untill it starts back up. i think it might be the ecu though. have you heard of anyone with the same problem or anything?

 

actully no i havent but i have gone around my engine bay and started unplugging stuff (for the heck of it) and found out that the car would start to shutter and die when i unplugged the temp sensor since the car uses it to measure how much fuel it will use.. what are the conditions when it dies ? temp, speed ect ....

 

it just does it randomly, there aren't any symptoms before hand. id have to wait until it messes up to do any more diagnostics. i heard that an old fuel pump could also cause my problem if it doesnt have the full power to pump the fuel causing low fuel pressure. i also gotta check next time if it could be flooding. next time it dies ill be ready to check the spark and fuel to see if i can narrow the possibilities down on the problem.. kinda off topic but where is the gas level meter at? my gas gauge doesnt go under half and it most likely needs to be replaced lol

 

the gas meter is in the gas tank abd the fuel pump is external....

 

ok thanks for all your help, if my temp sensor was bad it wouldnt read the corroect temp on the guage would it? cause when i first got the car it had an overheating problem but i replaced the heater core and flushed the coolant and the temp is usually low now, the engine doesnt seem like its overheating as the coolant isnt boiling or anything but it does seem to die out more during mid day when its not cool out. i usually dont have problems at night but it does happen sometimes randomly...

 

no their are 2 different sensors the coolent temp sensor (ecu) has 2 wires and the colent temp sending unit has on wire ... but yea just check spark fuel and so one when it happens. fyi- spark is not controlled by the ecu only by the ing. module ..

 

so she died on me again and i got to looking around... i think it may be a spark problem because i put the coil plug near the strut tower and when i cranked the engine i couldnt see the arc but im not positive it couldve just been hard to see, i sat there for about 20 mins and then she finally started and didnt die the whole way home. any idea?

 

Might be your ingnition module or coil... Spark can bee seen in day or night. Since I aid you have a msd coil you can remove the stock one and hook up the msd coil just the remove the stock coil out of the equation and if it still does that then check if your coil and ingnition module are getting voltage befor the stall and during the stall and if voltage is present on both during the stall the ing. Module is no good and has to be changed ... Hope it helps ...

 

so i had my car at idle and unplugged the ignition module and the rpms went down some didnt die though, but i also unpluged a connection on top of the intake manifold but nothing happened.. does that mean anything?

 

unplugging the ing module will kill the car.. so i dont know what u unplugged a pic would be nice...

 

ok ill take pics of it later this morning maybe a video if i can figure that out. i appreciate all your help

 

here are a few pics

this is what i unpluggged when the rpms went down



and this green connector on top of the intake is what i unplugged with no changes

 

the top one u unplugged was the cold start injector that does nothing it just helps start the car when cold.. the one u unplugged from the ing. module was the ecu controlled timing thing since you have the 4 pin ing module. 2 on top (coil) and to on side (timing advance by ecu)...
unplugging the top connector from the ing module will kill the car

 

ohh isee. well i didnt drive her today so next time ill double check for spark when it dies.

 

ok so today i got to check my maxi when she died on me twice. it is a spark related problem. i checked to see if the coil was giving spark to the distributor and it wasnt. do you have a better idea what the problem could be? i also got one of those power testing probes that you poke into the wire and it showed that the two wires going to the coil was getting power. hm..

 

ok then its most likely your module thats bad... the top connector is the main power connector. on of the top leads has 12v+ at ignition on and the 2nd top lead triggers the coil.. so most likely you module is bad..

 

okay thats what i was thinking too. ill replace it and see what happens

 

are you having any alternator / charging issues? for a while I was having charging issues... and mine would die just like you are saying. I traced it back to the fusible link inbetween the alternator and the battery. not charging = not a very powerful spark = dying sometimes.

also, change your fuel filter, it made 89047680497 times better difference in my old 82'

I noticed a huge improvement with a simple plugs / plug wires / distributor cap & rotor change.

after all that, it never died on me!

one last thing..... maybe your cat converter is old / clogged? sometimes when theyre old / clogged, they dont like to flow while cold.... just a thought. I fixed mine by removing it completely

 

nah my charging system seems fine, i might do an alternator upgrade sometime though. im about get the fuel filter, distributor cap and rotor, ive already changed plugs and im looking for some msd wires for when i put in my msd box. i also need to smog it still then ill probably redo the exhaust. im still looking for a ignition module to replace mine too

 

just put on new distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter, and replaced my ignition module. i got to drive across the freeway to the other side of town to a gas station and the fuel pump went out -__- im gonna check the relay first and if not its to the junk yard lol

 

went and changed the fuel pump with the one from my old maxima at the local junkyard. pump still isnt functioning.. im going to test my pumps today and probably change the relay and hope this solves it

 

damn that suck .. well good luck and if u cant get the oem pum just upgrade to a universal external pump summitracing.com has a bunch ...

 

hooked straight power to both of the fuel pumps and neither ran. yeah im just gonna get a new one from the store as soon a i get the money haha

 

Make sure your fuel pump is grounded to the chassis/body.

 

put in a brand new fuel pump and it works, i can hear it prime and the fuel seems to be getting through the lines but she wont stay running =( like it sounded like it was going to start but it just died back down right away

 

keep trying .. and hold the gas peddel so it can try to stay on cuz ther will be air bubbles in the fule line that need to be vented

 

yeah i thought that too ill see if itll stay running today.

 

drove to san jose no problems besides a little in traffic overheating, seems A ok now.

 

damn that good it aok ... b-(0_0)-d .... as for over heating new fan clutch or thermo ...

 

yeah i want to get a higher amp alternator and then put e fans on. do you know any good strong electric fans i can get from another car at the junk yard? and what alternator can i put on with higher amp? i heard the z31 would bolt up... and i took my thermo out

 

something I noticed to make my old 1st gen run cooler :

take the cloth hood liner out from under the hood. with a little research, I found out that at highway speeds, it was pulling air inbetween the liner and hood, instead flowing around the engine bay. this was last summer when it was 100- 110 degree heat here in texas! 75 - 80 mph and no trouble with overheating at all lol. oh and if your not using your a/c, taking the condenser out will aid in flowing air through the radiator too, duh lol.

 

haha will do.

 

will the 85 maxima alternator work? its 90 amps

 

it will work but you will need to swap out pulley if it the w shaped belt and u might have to mod the brackets.
heres a link .. for a quick idea http://good-times.webshots.com/album/563337993YPijfy