Looking for some info at what mileage/age you changed the stud, best way you found to remove it and did you get a new nut and washer. I would try a double jam nut to remove/replace it and then use loctite on the new stud.

uh......why would you wanna replace it, after 20 years of drivng it might be welded to the block, never heard of anyone replacing it before......

I read some past posts on t-belt replacement here and some other boards, and some members recommend replacing it because it may bend and/or snap due fatigue. I think most posts are for 3rd gen VG30s, though, so I don't know if the stud metal was better on 2nd gens. I think they are the same part now.

I did not replace it on my last t-belt job, since it looked OK and this engine has low miles. Believe me, I don't want to replace it if I don't have to. Like you say it could be seized in the block and snap when I try to remove it.

don't worry about it. never replaced it on any of my t belt jobs- I've done about 15 or 20 now- and never had one fail. (even though it was against the insistent urging of all the dealer parts guys that wanted to sell me a $15 bolt..)

^^i know right what kinda ish is that, 15 dlrs for the bolt and 20 dllrs to ship it,

I know the snapping of that bolt is what lead to Cmax03's car having bent valves 5k after he had rebuilt it.

I am not sure that was the final conclusion - but maybe Cmax03 can check in on this. In the pics the stud looked to be slightly bent, but I don't think it was known if was bent before or after the belt break. Loosening of tensioner pulley or stud were also possibilities.